The official parade
Photo by Scott Allford

The town of Kalibo is thought to have originally been settled by sailors from Borneo back in the early 1200’s. During the making of a peace pact between the local inhabitants (Aetas/Atis) and these settlers, the Borneans smeared soot on themselves to appear more like the Atis as a gesture of friendship. What ensued was a night of singing and dancing to drums and the Ati-atihan (meaning to look like the Atis) was born. When the Spanish came and brought Catholicism, the festival changed to incorporate more Christian features. As a result, in the modern day Ati-atihan you can see statues of the child Jesus being danced with to the sounds of drums and shouts of “Viva!” by participants smeared in black paint and dressed in colourful tribal costumes.

As I got closer to the centre of Kalibo the drums became louder and more infectious. One of the main characteristics of the festival is the drumbeats. Anywhere around Kalibo you can hear them thundering day or night. The festival itself is all around the streets of the town centre. Where exactly it’s hard to say as there is only a planned route on the last Saturday, which is for the official parade and judging. Otherwise, for three weeks, groups of people in elaborate costumes or everyday clothes dance and bounce non-choreographed steps randomly through the streets to the sounds of drums and glockenspiels.

Right after getting settled I headed to the town centre to see what was happening. The noise was amazing, with hundreds of different songs being played by a hundred different groups dancing through the streets. Everyone wore huge smiles in the friendly chaos of the festival. A few times I saw groups of 50 or more people in costumes and drummers make head on collisions as their groups random paths through the streets met, but it only made the participants smiles grow. Somewhere during the afternoon, I had to take a break so I went for a Paeapak, which is where a seminarian rubs a wooden statue of a Sto. Niño or the Child Jesus over points on your head and upper body to revitalise the spirit. I still wasn’t feeling totally revitalised so I made a quick stop by one of the many people with coolers on the road sides and picked up a beer before making my way back into the crowd. After a day of walking the streets there are a number of concerts around the town with local bands and big name Filipino bands playing. I relaxed to some food and a few beers watching some good music before making my way to bed.

A participant in full garb with a figure of the child Jesus
Photo by Scott Allford

On landing at Kalibo airport back in January for the Ati-atihan, I was filled with anticipation. I had read a lot about this festival being the most riotous festival in Asia and had wanted to take part in it since I first arrived in the Philippines. Luckily I know people in Kalibo, so accommodation was not hard to organise, and I booked my flights way back in August to guarantee myself a seat. For most of the year there is not a lot happening in Kalibo, but during Ati-atihan the population swells and the streets fill with people. So it’s smart to plan your trip months ahead.

Paeapak
Photo by Scott Allford

On the day of the official parade I was treated to a seemingly never ending procession of people in colourful costumes and scores of drummers and glockenspiel players. While it is a spectacle to watch, it is a toned down portion of the Ati-atihan as the route is planned and people line the sides of the route to watch rather than just joining in and dancing. I really prefer the joyous chaotic side of the festival. So after the parade I headed into the streets of the town centre to see what I could find. I wasn’t disappointed. A mass of colourful characters abounded. Amidst the dancing people in plain clothes and tribal costumes I found Atis selling potions and charms beside the church, Wonder Woman, two snake men with protruding tongues, a lanky foreigner painted in green with CDs for earrings, and Superman….wearing a diaper.

Superman…..wearing a diaper
Photo by Scott Allford

Then I joined a group with beverage in hand and danced through the streets. Beer showers were everywhere around me, and shouts of “Viva!’ rang out after every turn. Then as we proceeded down a little backstreet someone beside me shot off a Confetti Cannon. Some of the confetti flew into overhead electricity lines and shorted them out. A huge bang followed by glowing blue light emanated from the lines and a really weird buzzing sound filled the air accompanied by a strange burning smell. The crowd and drums fell completely silent and still as everyone watched until the light faded. Then all of a sudden a cheer of “WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!” burst out from the crowd and the drums and dancing started again. After dancing the day away I headed to the school to catch a fireworks display before going off to catch a set by the famous Filipino band Rivermaya before going to sleep to the sounds of drum beats still emanating from the town centre.

The Ati-atihan experience is truly like no other as it is the epitome of good old fashioned fun. Along with this the festival itself is steeped in centuries of history which is unmatched by any other festival in the country. And as the festival has evolved to incorporate the various cultures that have inhabited the town of Kalibo through these centuries, Ati-atihan carries a feeling of the exotic and the familiar at the same time. This is not a festival for sitting back and watching, but rather one for getting in amidst it all and getting carried away by the beat of a thousand drums.

Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz
Photo by bikoy

Located in an area of just about 1 square kilometer right in the heart of the city of Manila, Binondo bustles daily with trade and commerce which the Chinese are known for and it culminates thousands of years of Filipino and Chinese relations dating back to the Ice Age when tribes from Southern China are known to have reached the Philippines through the land bridges. During the Spanish period, Governor General Luis Pérez Dasmariñas created Binondo as a permanent settlement for the Sangleys (Spanish term for the Chinese derived from the Hookien “siong-tay” which literally means “often comes”), converted Chinese immigrants, across the Pasig River from Intramuros where the Spaniards lived. This was meant to replace the Parian where the unconverted Chinese resided. It was under the Dominicans who rapidly proselytized the population to Catholicism and through intermarriages, a new Chinese mestizo class was born. The assimilation of the immigrant Chinese into the fabric and lifeblood of Philippine history is now complete. It was said that the Filipino-Chinese (also called Chinoy/Tsinoy) are the most assimilated Chinese community in Southeast Asia. Out of these Binondo intermarriages came St. Lorenzo Ruiz, the First Filipino Saint – Binondo Church is officially named Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. A visit to Binondo is never complete without dropping by the church whose original façade survived the massive carpet bombing of Manila by the Americans during World War 2. Check out the floor whose stone bricks curiously come with Chinese characters by the main entrance of the church, these were apparently tombstones of graves in China brought to the Philippines and sold by the enterprising Chinese. Another prominent Chinese mestizo of Binondo is the Venerable Mother Ignacia del Espiritu Santo who is the founder of the first congregation for Filipino women.

Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz and Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz
Photo by webzer

The syncretism of both the Catholic and Buddhist religion is still evident today in Binondo. Just on the corner of Ongpin and San Nicolas Streets is a shrine by the wall of a building called Santo Cristo de Longos where a cross is adorned by garlands of sampaguita (jasmine) and a jar where incense sticks are burned by devotees and curious passersby. According to stories, the site was a former well, and there was a deaf-mute Chinese whose speech was restored after finding an image of a crucified Christ on the shrine’s very spot.

Santo Cristo de Longos
Photo by themollyjayne

Binondo was the main center of commerce in the Philippines before the last World War where Spanish Filipinos, Chinese and the Chinese mestizos conducted business and finance complete with banks, insurance companies and financial institutions from the United States and Great Britain. During the Spanish era, the Chinese in the Philippines were a major lynchpin in linking the Chinese junk trading system and the Silk Road to Acapulco (Mexico) and to the rest of Europe through the two and a half century Galleon Trade. That said, the Chinese in the Philippines were the backbone of the Spanish colonial economy. Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) opened their first Philippine branch in Binondo in 1876 taking advantage of the booming Philippine sugar industry while financing infrastructure projects like railways which connected the rest of Luzon to Manila. Escolta, nicknamed as the “Wall Street of the Philippines” was then the equivalent of Ayala Avenue in Makati now. A stroll through the Escolta today still reveals some of its former glories, while in Escolta, don’t forget to drop by the Escolta Museum which is located on the mezzanine floor of Calvo Building where you can have a glimpse of fin de siècle Escolta and its vicinity through old photographs, newspaper articles, advertisements, vintage bottles and scale models of existing and non-existing buildings located along the short thoroughfare along the Pasig River. A replica of an entire row of Escolta was built in the Ciudad Acuzar in Bagac, Bataan.

Binondo Street
Photo by thesecondbest

The belfry of Sta. Cruz Church from Escolta
Photo by via

Binondo: The Dragon of Manila
Photo by aspirecaptured

The El Hogar
Photo by bleeding_smile_in_front_of_you

Jones Bridge at Night
Photo by d2digital

Filipino Chinese Friendship Arch
Photo by themollyjayne

Good Luck!
Photo by themollyjayne

During the Marcos Regime, the Philippines suffered a major financial crisis around the early ‘80s. The Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (Central Bank of the Philippines) was found to be broke, the national treasury plundered to dust. Binondo earned the moniker “Binondo Central Bank” as businessmen in the district engaged in a massive US dollar black market which often dictated the actual movement of the Philippine Peso against the American Dollar. To get Marcos off their backs, the Chinese businessmen readily acceded to ‘requests’ of the regime to infuse fresh funding into its drying coffers. Today, despite its gritty façade, Binondo remains to be one of the major centers of commerce in the country.

Eng Bee Tin
Photo by Jsinglador

The Purple Fire Truck
Photo by Dave Ryan

Like other Chinatowns in other parts of the world, Binondo is also known for tastiest Chinese cuisine in the entire metropolis. My personal favorites are located along the tiny alley called Carvajal Street where we would sometimes head out to eat the most savoury Chinese dishes for lunch when I used to work in a bank nearby. During my last visit with Carlos Celdran, performance artist and tour operator, the Stone Lion Food Haus wasn’t around anymore but the row of other Chinese restaurants and the stalls of fruits and other foodstuffs still exist on this street. Carvajal is also known for its Hookien name Ho Sua Hang or Umbrella Alley as the street used to be famous for shops selling umbrellas. Another area of major culinary interest would be the bigger but equally busy Ongpin Street. The Estero (literally meaning estuary as the area is located by a creek) is a Binondo institution where a row of eateries conduct their daily business of feeding its many regular customers. Breaded pork chop is one of the most famous dishes here for being delicious and cheap. Another personal favorite is Mr. Ube Rice and Noodle House, owned and managed by the same people of the famous Eng Bee Tin, which serves yummy Asian dishes like Singaporean Laksa which is definitely worth a try. The Lechon Macau Rice Topping (Deep Fried Pork Belly) was a little bland but was good enough for me. A part of the proceeds of the sales of the restaurant go to Binondo’s Fire Department and other local community projects. One of the most popular Binondo food items would be the hopia of Eng Bee Tin. The hopia is a bean filled pastry introduced by Fujian immigrants to the Philippines around the early years of the American occupation. Eng Bee Tin literally revolutionized this humble pastry by introducing different kinds of filling, the most famous of which is ube, Filipino for purple yam which became a big hit, as with innate marketing savvy, sales soared. The owner of Eng Bee Tin donated a fire truck colored purple to the community in reference to Eng Bee Tin’s famous Hopia Ube. Binondo as a culinary destination is varied and exciting that one is only limited by his or her imagination by the surprises that its streets offer.

Currently there are many Chinatown tours being offered, and even if I was familiar with Binondo already, I took one done by the highly recommended, renowned performance artist Carlos Celdran’s tours (Walk This Way – http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/ )and as usual I wasn’t disappointed. Aside from weaving through Binondo’s main and side streets, we also experienced Binondo in a calesa, (a horse drawn carriage). The Chinatown tour was peppered with a lot of intriguing trivia which Carlos often injects in his tours. There are many ways to get to Binondo, you may take any of the jeepneys bound for Divisoria from Taft Avenue in Pasay City and get off at the Binondo Church or you may also take the LRT and get off the Central Station and walk in the direction of the Manila City Hall, then take the same Divisoria-bound jeepneys. Taxis usually dread going into the part of the city due to heavy traffic. Wear comfortable clothes and footwear and bring extra cash as a lot of shops don’t take credit cards.

Ryan: Carlos Celdran Walk This Way Tours to Quiapo and Binondo are suspended indefinitely due to apparent meddling by the local cops around the Quiapo area. There are other tours that do Binondo however like the Binondo Food Wok (fun@oldmanilawalks.com). They are also highly recommended by some of our contacts in the travel circuit.

Chinese Take-Out Binondo Style
Photo by webzer

Signs of Binondo
Photo by lunacruz

Celebrating the Lunar New Year in Binondo
Photo by jessiefish

To learn more of the Chinese heritage in the Philippines, one can drop by the Bahay Tsinoy Museum at the Kaisa Heritage Center (http://www.bahaytsinoy.org /+63.2.5276083/5266798/5266796/info@bahaytsinoy.org) at Anda cor. Cabildo Streets inside Intramuros. The museum is a repository of the Filipino Chinese heritage tracing the history of Chinese presence in the Philippines long before the Spaniards arrived to the modern times.

Today, Binondo and the local Filipino-Chinese community more than ever remain as an integral part of Philippine history, culture, politics and economy.

Binondo Today
Photo by storm-crypt

Quiapo Church
Photo by Scott Allford

Back in December 2009 we joined Carlos Celdran’s tour (Walk This Way – http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/ ) on a walk through Quiapo. The first thing that hit me was the chaos of the area. Everywhere there was traffic and people moving in every direction and a million smells and noises filling the air. On walking up to the SM Clearance Outlet at the end of Hidalgo Street we noticed a very large plume of smoke from a fire a couple of blocks away, but people only glanced at it and kept on rushing about and buying what they needed. Quiapo is known by many as offering some of the cheapest prices in Manila for whatever you need. Hidalgo Street is also known as Camera Street and has become somewhat of a mecca for photographers as any photography accessories you require can easily be found here usually for less than market prices. Stalls line both sides of the street and the middle of the street selling clothes, rice cakes, pasta, fruits, DVDs, CDs, sunglasses, bags, necklaces and much more. Before entering Hidalgo Street, Carlos advised our large group composed mostly of foreigners to follow the buddy system and never lose sight of our partner as it is easy to get lost in Quiapo. On the walk, or rather the shuffle through Hidalgo Street I experienced sensory overload with so much happening around me, but I was always mindful of my valuables and following the buddy system.

Walking along Hidalgo Street
Photo by Scott Allford

Finally we all made it through the hordes of people in Camera Street and came out into Plaza Miranda. This square in front of Quiapo Church was the site of the 1971 Plaza Miranda bombing where 9 were killed and nearly 100 injured during a political campaign rally held by anti-Marcos Liberal Party members. As I walked into the plaza I weaved my way through stalls selling flowers and fruits and caught glimpses of a protest for Human Rights going on in the centre. Plaza Miranda is also the site of the largest religious festival in the Philippines. Every year on January 9th millions of devotees gather to touch the holy Black Nazarene to be miraculously healed or blessed. They walk through the streets barefoot while the figure is carried in a golden carriage. The Black Nazarene was brought to the Philippines from Mexico in 1606 and both Pope Innocent X and Pope Pius VII have placed their blessings upon the statue. At all other times of the year the Black Nazarene is housed high in the altars of Quiapo Church. As we went there in December we were able to walk into the church and up a curving staircase behind the altar to touch the Black Nazarene’s foot. While the site of millions of devotees is something pretty amazing, going to see the Black Nazarene is much easier. When you touch the statue’s foot, you make your wishes or say your prayers and leave some sampaguita flowers which can be bought from the many vendors outside the church.

Me touching the foot of the Black Nazarene
Photo by Scott Allford

After this deeply Catholic experience you can step out through the side doors of the church and stock up on your occult supplies. In the shadows of the Quiapo Church all your supernatural needs can be met. If you’ve got a problem with an Aswang (vampire-like witch creature) you can find the solution here. Love potions made from lizard urine and a variety of other herb and animal concoctions can be found in numerous stalls on the edge of the plaza near Evangelista Street. I picked up a pendant for everything to do with travel which has a language that looks like Latin written on the back but is actually a Filipino version of Latin which nobody seems to understand but has apparent mystical properties. Also you can pick up a coloured candle to burn for whatever you need. There are a variety of colours to choose from and Carlos Celdran treated each of us to a candle. Red is for love, Green is for money, Black is for someone who wronged you to develop a conscience.

The Candles of Quiapo
Photo by Scott Allford

After an afternoon walking around Quiapo I was exhausted, but I also was kind of sad that my visit was over. Quiapo is a sort of microcosm of the Philippines with different cultural practices all mashed together and living in harmony with each other. The great thing about it is that it is located right here in Manila and is therefore only a short but unforgettable trip for any traveller who wants to experience a slice of Filipino history, culture and traditions.

Puerto Princesa

Puerto Princesa Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Known worldwide as the home of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park – the longest navigable underground river in the entire world and many of its exotic islands, cream colored beaches, a plethora of waterfalls, hot springs, verdant rainforests, fauna and flora that can never found anywhere else on the planet,- the melting pot city of Puerto Princesa City is always an adventure waiting to happen.

Located about an hour and a half plane ride southwest of Manila, the sprawling City of Puerto Princesa which also happens to be the capital of the province of Palawan comes into view where the traveler is first greeted by the many islands scattered all over Honda Bay. The entire city straddles the middle of the Palawan – bordered by the towns of San Vicente and Roxas in the north, Aborlan on the south, Sulu Sea on its east and the South China Sea and the Kalayaan town of the Kalayaan Islands Group in the west. It is by no joke that this city is humungous in size; it is after all the second largest city in the Philippines in terms of area at 2,381.02 square kilometers, next only to Davao City which has a total area of 2,443.61 square kilometers.

Migratory Birds on Pandan Island
Photo by storm crypt

Puerto Princesa got its name from a legendary princess-like maiden, who in the olden times is said to have roamed around the area on certain nights of the year. While others who are too skeptical of such stories point out the geographical advantage of its harbor, which is naturally protected and has a depth which can accommodate large seagoing vessels- thus basically a virtual princess of ports as indicated by the maps of the Spaniards during the colonial era. Historically of course the city was named after the Spanish Princess Eulalia born in 1864. Her mother, Queen Isabel II changed the name to Puerto de la Princesa after Princess Eulalia’s death. After which, it was shortened to Puerto Princesa as it is known today.

As it is the same today, Puerto Princesa was already quite known and recognized for its orderliness and cleanliness way back in 1894. As we walked through the streets of this city (which was still quite scorching hot and humid even during December- we really wished that there were more trees planted along the boulevards of the city), we noticed the absence of litter for such a highly urbanized community. Police and even local citizens (yes, locals can make a citizen arrest) are really quite strict when it comes to waste disposal. There is no excuse to throw your trash anywhere since there are trash bins every couple hundred meters.

Inside the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River
Photo by storm crypt

Now the city is becoming to be known as being at the forefront of Philippine ecotourism campaigns with its various projects in promoting environmental tourism in the country today. Puerto Princesa in recent years has again been grabbing national and international headlines with its campaign to make its most famous feature to date be listed as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature– the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (more commonly known as the Underground River/St. Paul Underground River) which at 8.2 kilometers makes it the longest navigable underground river in the world. The park is located about 5 kilometers from Sabang Beach in the northwest part of the city and is about 2-3 Hours by public bus/jeepney from Puerto Princesa City Bus Terminal (by the New Public Market).

One basically navigates under the spectacular limestone formations which often resemble familiar things like mushrooms, and other vegetables as well as people – the boatman pretty much doubles as the guide and at the same time the group’s official entertainer. There is a turquoise colored lagoon at the mouth of the cave with ancient trees that basically grow right on the water’s edge. There are three ways of heading out to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park – either by boat from Sabang (easiest), or a hike through the Monkey Trail (moderate hike) and the Jungle Trail (difficult hike). Be prepared to encounter a lot of endemic flora and fauna along the way, we probably spotted at least 2 huge monitor lizards along the way, some really nasty ants, and heard birdcalls from different species of birds along the Monkey Trail. Noticing there was an absence of monkeys on the monkey trail, apparently, the pack was already at the beach near the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park opening since there are more tourists (meaning more food for the simians). Around the park, one can find other things to do, you may check out Ethnographic Museum, go on a mangrove cruise using a paddle boat through the Puyoy-puyoy river, or go spelunking in so many of the caves in the area (Lion Cave, Ugong Rock, Cawili Cave, Daylight Hole, Million Birds Cage).

On your way to Sabang, fantastic jungle clad limestone and marble cliffs and karst mountains pepper the horizon- make sure to prepare your camera and that you are seated on the right side of vehicle, then you should be able to capture these geologically significant landscapes which are located at Barangays Tagabinet and Cabayugan. Just before reaching Sabang, is the beautiful Ulugan Bay- a deep channel where a cluster of three islets called Tres Marias guard the mouth of this bay. There is a mangrove footwalk as well as a nearby waterfall (Kayulo) and Rita Island which is located inside the bay is a popular dive spot. There will be more detailed information on the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park in my article which focuses more on this wonder of nature. You may cast your vote online for Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park as one of the New 7 Natural Wonders of the World www.new7wonders.com.

Honda Bay
Photo by storm crypt

Aside from the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, Puerto Princesa is also famous for its multitude of beaches. Head out to Honda Bay and go island hopping in its many islands, the most popular ones would be Snake Island (known for its long sandbar and fish feeding area- 45 minutes away from the port), Pandan Island (35 minutes), Starfish Island (35 minutes), Bat Island (known for the thousands of bats flying around dusk- 10 minutes), Cowrie Island (10 minutes), Adobo Island, Arreceffi Island (owned by the Dos Palmas Resort and 1 hour away from the port), Luli Island (15 minutes) and the reefs of Panglima (with its big coral boulders and gray reef sharks) and Pambato (known for medium large fishes of various species and beautiful coral gardens). The islands can also be viewed from Mitra’s Ranch, a privately owned ranch which is open to the public during the day. Mitra’s Ranch sports a house which looked very similar with the Monastery of the Transfiguration in Bukidnon.

Save probably for Snake Island, every island charges a minimal entrance fee. Arreceffi Island however is the most expensive of the lot which at the time of this writing charges PhP500 entrance fees. Entrance fees are paid upon entrance to these islands and the rates of the boats and entrance fees are posted at the port which is located about 5-10 minutes from the Puerto Princesa City Proper. The islands all have cream-colored sandy beaches. The most developed is probably the Snake Island where you can rent open air native huts with tables, and tiny stores which sell fresh seafood to grill and bread which can be used for fish feeding. The fishes on Snake Island are way too aggressive as we found out for ourselves. We literally had to get out of the water after a few minutes as a pink colored fish basically started attacking us by furtively divebombing and nibbling our feet. Of course, it not life threatening and other people will find it cute and amusing though we just felt weird to see such aggressive fish circling us.

Most of the islands are tiny; we basically went around Pandan Island in about 30 minutes and were quite pleased that there were not a lot of tourists in most of its parts. In some parts of the island, the sand was very, very fine which felt almost like silk. Pambato Reef was just gorgeous and very colorful; the reef is one of the most diverse around Puerto Princesa. Make sure you wear fins and not to splash too much when trying to swim and snorkel around as this damages the corals. Also avoid touching or stepping on the corals – a coral only grows 1 centimeter every year and these reefs are already threatened as it is. We saw signs of coral bleaching in some of the corals in the reef – one of the damages wrought by global warming. Also, we were a little concerned as well when we saw a small bucket of conch shells in our boat – collection of shells of any size or specie is not good for the environment and we encourage everyone to refrain from taking home a “souvenir”. Arreceffi Island made world headlines when in May 2001, 20 guests from the upscale resort Dos Palmas were abducted by the dreaded Islamic bandits Abu Sayyaf and one Peruvian-American was later beheaded and another American was killed in the crossfire during a rescue attempt. Because of this, a massive security presence is now deployed and radar surveillance has significantly boosted security and since then there were no more repeat incidents of this kind that have ever happened in the entire province of Palawan. Unfortunately, 9 years later, Palawan and Puerto Princesa City are still reeling, very undeservedly, from the effects of the highly publicized kidnappings, and while there is no immediate security threat in Palawan, it is only lately that tourist numbers are beginning to go back up. This is really ridiculous actually, after the horrific events of 9/11, it did not take 9 years before people started visiting New York. Today, Puerto Princesa and Palawan are some of the safest destinations in the world and the presence of so many Europeans and other foreigners visiting and living in the province that we met during our trip backs this up.

Snake Island
Photo by storm crypt

Aside from the beautiful beaches in Honda Bay, you may also visit the many other beaches on the mainland such as the beaches of San Rafael, Concepcion, Puting Buhangin, Tagbarungis, Kamuning, Pontog, Turtle Bay- all of which front the Sulu Sea and about 1 hour to 1 hour 45 minutes away from the city proper. On the side facing the South China Sea, you may check out the beaches of Napsan, Tagkawayan, Nagtabon, Talaudyong, and Sabang, While these are more or less the best known beaches, one can actually go and find your own beach which you don’t need to share with other tourists. One of them is a beach which is literally overlooked by a lot of people because it is a nice sandbar which is located right next to the landing lights of the Puerto Princesa Airport. The beach is called Canigaran and you have to literally wade through up to waist deep of water to get there. This is also a place for some locals to go get some edible shells.

Meanwhile, Puerto Princesa Bay is a hub for sunset cruises, and dolphin watching and is also a major port of call for smaller ships and boats that are bound to the different destinations in the Sulu Sea, namely the stunning islands of Cuyo (where the famous, ultra-exclusive Amanpulo Resort is located) and to another UNESCO World Heritage Site the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, magnificent atolls with an astonishing diversity of marine life unparalleled anywhere in the world. Colorful reef fish swim in its shallows while pelagics and sharks swim in its volcanic depths.

Near the port of Honda Bay meanwhile, is the Viet Ville or Vietnamese Village, a former settlement area for the Vietnamese Boat People, refugees who fled Vietnam during the Vietnam War and found themselves washed ashore in Palawan (the first wave of which was in 1979). Being naturally hospitable, the Philippines offered not only a home but a second chance to the Vietnamese refugees. The village was set up by the local government and up until today, these humble houses still stand testament to a peoples struggle for freedom. There is a tiny chapel and a statue to Our Lady of Viet Nam, a restaurant and a souvenir shops. Street signs within this tiny village are in Vietnamese as well. Check out the Sta. Lourdes Hot Springs nearby as well. Another hot spring worth checking out is the Sta. Lucia Hot Springs too.

For waterfalls the most notable are the Sabang Falls in Sabang, Olanguan Falls, and the Kayulo Falls. Halfway going to Napsan are the Salakot Waterfalls where aside from the cool waters of its three layered waterfalls, rare species of butterflies can sometimes be found here. Mountaineers would love the trek to the 1,600 meters high Cleopatra’s Needle which provides a sweeping view of Puerto Princesa City. While it is a challenging climb for mountaineers, one will be rewarded with rivers, streams, fields and lush forests.

Recreation Hall, Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm
Photo by Dave Ryan

Aside from the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River, and the island hopping, one of the major highlights of our trip would probably be the visit to the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm. Spanish authorities during the colonial period had earlier designated Puerto Princesa to be a place where offenders were exiled but it was only in November 16, 1904 under the American Governor General Luke Wright that facilities were established. Vocational activities were made available to the prisoners which include farming, fishing, handicrafts making, forestry and carpentry.

Prisoners are free to roam the hectares and hectares of land within the penal colony which makes this one of the quirkiest prisons in the world. When we drove into Iwahig, instead of guards, prisoners actually opened and closed the gate for us. We had to sign in of course, plate number, name of guests and all. Most of the roads inside the farm are dirt and gravel and it couldn’t be more surreal to see ricefields left and right – yes, the prisoners grow their own food. In the main square, stately American colonial buildings still stand, one is a beautiful building that is used as a recreation hall which is right next to a souvenir shop. Unfortunately, the recreation hall is in a state of disrepair and needs immediate attention; I peeked inside and found the roof is literally falling apart. The souvenir shop sells items such as gavels, baseball bat keychains, nunchucks, canes made from kamagong, a Philippine hardwood, side by side with cute stuffed toys, t-shirts and pearl necklaces. Outside the shop, the prisoners can be a tad pushy selling their wares and seeing some of them are wearing medium security shirts, although, obviously, the guys mean no harm, still the experience was quite unnerving at worst. For a good price, one can even buy government-issued prison shirts (around 200-300 Pesos apiece depending whether it is minimum, medium or maximum security shirts). Another feature of Iwahig is the Balsahan River Picnic Grounds which are also open to the public. Best is to buy some meat and bring it to the picnic grounds to be grilled, the grounds are also tended by prisoners themselves and are open to the public. While at the picnic ground, check out the Iwahig Stone which serves proof that Palawan is one of the oldest islands in the Philippines. Close to Iwahig, along the National Road is the Irawan Crocodile Farm and Nature Park, which is open to the public and aims to preserve and further research on crocodiles.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral
Photo by Dave Ryan

Within the city proper, there are quite a few places that one should check out as well. You may as well check out the very angular Immaculate Conception Cathedral on Rizal Avenue which is right next to the Plaza Cuartel on Taft Street. Plaza Cuartel was used as an old garrison where more or less 150 soldiers (varying accounts), all American Prisoners of War were herded by the Japanese Imperial Army on December 14, 1944 into three covered trenches and were then set on fire using barrels of gasoline. Those who attempted to escape were shot down, others tried to escape by climbing over a cliff that ran along the site of the trenches but were later hunted down. 10-11 survived this atrocity and it was said that 133-141 were killed. A small statue commemorates the site of the massacre.

Also within the city proper, make sure that you pay a visit to the Palawan Museum which houses the relics and artifacts found in Tabon Cave – the site of the oldest human bone ever found in the Philippines and the oldest known fossil remains of Homo Sapiens in Southeast Asia which are radiocarbon dated to an age of 22,000-24,000 years. The fossil is now housed at the National Museum of the Filipino People in Manila.
Major festivals are the Baragatan sa Palawan and Feast of the Forest (3rd week of June) and the City Fiesta (every 8th of December).

Why Not Go

While the city proper offers a good deal of creature comforts, the hulking malls and the blinding lights of flashy clubs and discotheques of Manila are conspicuously absent in Puerto Princesa so for those on the lookout for clubbing and mall-hopping, Puerto Princesa is not going to be the right place for you.

Why Go

For those who seek leisure and adventure, Puerto Princesa offers a vast array of choices from cruising an underground river, spelunking, diving, island hopping, firefly tours and other eco-friendly pastimes. It is a must for every traveler to and within the Philippines to experience the beauty of this wonderful city.

Best Time to Visit

The city enjoys a year round tropical climate with a relatively high humidity. Early mornings by Sabang Beach however can be chilly around December. Puerto Princesa is mostly spared by the typhoons that ravage other parts of the country and thus makes almost any time of the year the best time to head out to this city.

Where to Stay

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Our favorite place to stay in Puerto Princesa (city proper) would be hands down – Banwa Pension (http://www.banwa.com/), a guesthouse & art café rolled into one. The accommodations are pretty basic, but the service is friendly and ambience is pretty bohemian. The lounge room doubles as an art gallery of sorts and art pieces (for sale) line the walls of the corridor. The restaurant operates on an honesty basis, get your beer from the fridge and write your name on the sheet of paper by the bar and pay later when you check out. Most of the guests who check in here are mostly Europeans and it is pretty easy to meet new friends while lounging around – we ended up talking about the European Union and swapping travel stories and tips over beers around Christmas eve with other guests from Sweden, Germany and Austria. After we came back from Sabang, we had to chill out and get away from the searing midday sun and headed back to Banwa for a couple more beers and some great conversation with even newer friends.

Banwa Pension Lounge Room
Photo by Dave Ryan

In Sabang, Mary’s Cottages (+63.919.7577582) is the no-frills choice, accommodation is really basic and some huts share an outhouse while other cottages have their own lavatories. Like most of the resorts on Sabang, the resort runs on a power generator which is turned off at some point. The owner is amiable, and the staff is helpful, save for the fact that the check-in guy forgot to give us our blankets (which almost left us frozen around early morning). The common outhouse needs more attention as well as sometimes it wasn’t very well kept. Having said that, we liked the simplicity of the resort compared to a newly constructed huge hotel made out of concrete which looked grotesque and uninspiring. Mary’s Cottage has the better beachfront in the entire Sabang strip. Also, the owner can send a carabao cart to pick you up from the port to take you to the resort.

Where & What to Eat

Suffice to say, we left Puerto Princesa with extra pounds. A visit to the city is never complete without trying the Tamilok also known as a shipworm and although it looks, as someone said like an umbilical cord and despite of being called a worm – it is not a worm. It is actually related to the clam family albeit a really, really weird looking clam. It is prepared with vinegar and/or lemon juice, pretty much like a ceviche, and the taste was like that of an oyster with an earthy aftertaste probably much owing to the fact that the Tamilok bores its way through wood around the mangroves and other areas near the waters. Grossed out at first, I almost finished more than half of the plate of Tamilok served to me at Kinabuchs (Rizal Avenue). Kinabuchs is also known for probably one of the best crispy pata (deep fried pork knuckles) I have ever encountered. Once in Puerto Princesa, and you are not a vegetarian, make sure you get hold of their crispy pata! Basically we spent our Christmas Day dinner at this place with Mr. Caesar Yuipco and his lovely family.

One of the most highly recommended places by friends before we went to Puerto Princesa was Ka Lui also on Rizal Avenue. So off we went and after the famous and super delicious seafood plate, it was full on thumbs up for this stylish restaurant (you have to take your shoes off when you step into the restaurant) which also doubles as an art gallery for local artists. We met with owner, Lui Oliva after dinner and we also found out that the restaurant actively supports not only the local artists, but also local producers. Almost everything on the menu as we found out was sourced in Palawan which we think is an exemplary way of helping local communities. Aside from offering great food, it was a great cause and for that we highly recommend Ka Lui.

Vietnamese influence brought about by the waves of Vietnamese refugees settling in Palawan is pretty prominent with its many Chao Long Houses (pretty much the same as Tapsilog places in Manila), eateries which serve cheap but great tasting Chao Long (a rice noodle soup usually served with meat, locals call it beef stew and it is pretty similar to Pho). The noodles are flat and almost translucent in a very savory broth with beef, beef bones, pork or chicken) and served with basil, mint, bean sprouts, chili and calamansi (or Philippine lime). Chao Long is also best eaten with a piece of French Baguette smeared with butter and garlic on one side. The best place to try this is at the Bulwagang Princesa Chao Long House on Rizal Avenue. The Chao Long in this place is so good we had to come back for another round.

Chao Long
Photo by Dave Ryan

For vegetarians, you may check out the Vegetarian House on Manalo Street near the office of the Department of Education. In Sabang, meanwhile, one should never forget to try the fresh coconut juice at Mary’s Cottages located near the entrance to the trails going to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park – it was probably the yummiest coconut juice we ever had in memory.

Nightlife

Nightlife in the city is characterized by basically heading out to restaurant bars like Kinabuchs. During festivals and holidays, the place to be is hang out at the Baywalk where colorful lampposts line the harbor which faces the Sulu Sea. Bicycles can be rented while there are a few food stalls around. During the Christmas Season, a giant Christmas tree adorns the park while there are small fairs constructed. The beach in Sabang is mostly characterized by restaurants.

My to do List

1. Go on a cruise through the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River.*
2. Island hopping in Honda Bay. **
3. Pay a visit to the Plaza Cuartel and the Immaculate Conception Cathedral.*
4. Go shopping for super cheap pearls at unbeatable prices at Delma’s (+63.48.4341495/+63.919.4988917/by the Old Public Market)*
5. Try the Crispy Pata and the Tamilok at Kinabuchs.*
6. Visit and have a picnic at the Iwahig Penal Farm.*
7. Satisfy your hunger with some good Chao Long at the Bulwagang Princesa Chao Long House after you visit the Vietnamese Village. *
8. Snorkel at the Pambato Reef.**
9. Go spelunking!
10. Take a carabao cart ride on Sabang Beach.*
11. Learn more about the history of the province at the Palawan Museum.*
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure. Palawan is notorious for really awful mosquito bites. Our bug bites are still itching more than two weeks after we left.
2. Drowning – Learn to spot rip tides and make sure you wear a working life-vest during boat trips.
3. Dehydration – always bring a bottle of water especially during hikes..
4. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
5. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on sunblock.

Getting There

Puerto Princesa Airport is the main gateway to the Palawan mainland. Talks are afoot of converting the airport to cater to international flights. From Manila, it is accessible by air via Philippine Airlines, Zest Air, and Cebu Pacific. There are flights via Southeast Asian Airlines (SEAIR) from Manila via El Nido/Busuanga. There are also seasonal flights direct from Boracay/Caticlan also via SEAIR. Cebu Pacific meanwhile offers direct flights from Cebu.

Puerto Princesa Airport
Photo by Dave Ryan

By sea, Puerto Princesa is accessible via the Superferry which has schedules for trips to Manila via Coron which takes about 18-22 hours. There are also trips from Iloilo via Montenegro Shipping.

Tricycles are the main mode of transport within the city, and figuring out the right fares sometimes boggles the traveler – you really don’t know whether you are getting ripped off or not. Outside the city proper and to other towns, there are jeepneys and rickety mini-buses available. The best option is to hire a van to take you around and this works out better when you are in a group or have your trips arranged by your tour operator instead to do away with the hassle. Going to Sabang, there are only three available jeepneys (last one leaves at 1PM) and at least one bus a day. A rental van costs about 3,000 to 3,500 Pesos depending on how you haggle. Island hopping is made possible through a motorized outrigger boat. At the Honda Bay port, there is a list of rates and the boatmen never ask for more.

A Christmas Tree made from coconuts in the Coconut Palace
Photo by Scott Allford

I had been told about Christmas in the Philippines being the longest in the world, however I was not able to comprehend how big Christmas is in this country until September 2008. Walking through the malls of Manila or down the main roads of the different cities, Christmas was everywhere. In a tropical country with a dearth of pine trees and no snow it was quite strange to be sitting in Starbucks drinking a coffee in early September to the sounds of Frosty the Snowman, I’m dreaming of a White Christmas, or Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire. I was recently travelling in Batanes in what was possibly the only van on Sabtang Island with Christmas tunes playing as well. The song switched from Jingle Bells to a reggae sounding guy saying “Christmas in the Philippines.” Then it went into “Shalalalala, Shalala in the morning.” And even more bizarre is that in October all of the Christmas decorations come down for a week while the Halloween ones go up. But right after Halloween everything goes back to Christmas.

If you’re in Manila around Christmas you can enjoy all of the lights and decorations around the city. Or for the more spiritually inclined there are an abundance of masses to attend. Starting on December 16th is the Simbang Gabi (Night Mass) which last for nine days and start as early as 4am. Usually after these masses, Filipinos sit down to a big breakfast and there are also numerous vendors outside churches selling foods such as bibingka (rice flour and egg-based cake, cooked using coal burners on top of and under the pastry), putò bumbóng (a purple, sticky rice delicacy steamed in bamboo tubes, with brown sugar and shredded dried coconut meat served as condiments), salabát (hot ginger tea) and tsokoláte (thick Spanish cocoa).

On Christmas Day (Noche Buena), family, friends and neighbours will drop by houses to wish families “Maligayang Pasko” (Merry Christmas). And there is never a shortage of delicious Filipino foods for all of the guests. I think that I ate six full meals last Christmas.

For other Christmas sights, you can make your way out to UP Diliman for the annual UP lantern Parade. Held on the last day of classes before the Christmas break, this parade started back in 1922 and is a procession of large Christmas floats around the campus. There are now parades at other UP campuses but the one in Diliman is the original and the biggest.

Pampanga Giant Lantern
Photo by ianong

Heading north of Manila you can see the Giant Lanterns in San Fernando, Pampanga. This is held every year on the Saturday before Christmas Eve with complex light displays and competitions. At 20 feet across and containing 3,500 – 5,000 light bulbs, the giant lanterns of San Fernando are really a sight to behold. Also in San Fernando is the Paskuhan Village (Hilaga Village), which celebrates everything about Christmas. With the lanterns and the Christmas village, San Fernando has become the Christmas capital of the Philippines.

Jojo’s Christmas Cottage
Photo by Scott Allford

Down in the Visayas on the Island of Panay is the town of New Washington. Apart from being home to the famous Cardinal Sin, this town also has the Sampaguita Gardens and Jojo’s Christmas Cottage where Christmas is celebrated 365 days a year. Inside is everything about Christmas, including little Christmas dolls from around the world, little Christmas villages, and signs saying Merry Christmas in every language. You can also check out the 1918 Model T Ford parked next to the cottage.

Lastly, right next to the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao is the Christmas Capital of Mindanao. In Tangub City, Misamis Occidental the whole city is covered in Christmas lights and symbols, and nativity scenes abound. This Christmas festival has actually made Tangub City one of the most visited destinations in the Philippines and is definitely worth a look.

Across this vast archipelago Christmas is celebrated in churches, homes and grand parades and each offers its own interesting insight into Filipino culture. And it is during this season that the infamous friendly nature of the Filipino people overflows with joyousness so it’s a great time to travel the country and meet the locals.

Batanes

Batanes Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Things to Bring
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Taming the wind and the waters in the northernmost Philippine frontier, the relatively isolated islands of the Batanes, the home of the resilient and welcoming Ivatans, with its rolling hills, subtropical climate, ancient cultures, windswept traditional stone houses and breathtaking landscapes and seascapes which perhaps make it one of the prettiest corners of the world.

After about 1 hour and 45 minutes SEAIR flight from Manila, we finally caught a glimpse of the northernmost province of the Philippines and from the air, one can see the fields that look like a labyrinthine patchwork of green bordered by tall hedgerows of grass, reeds, piled stones and trees which serve as a crop protection from the fierce winds, and typhoons which commonly pass near the islands as well as huge waves that crash into dramatic cliffs and rocks that jut out into the ocean, which undoubtedly look incredibly similar to the English moors and Scottish Highlands with a Filipino twist. Think Wuthering Heights and you’ll know what we mean. In 1687, English freebooters with a Dutch crew arrived in these islands and named three of the islands in honor of their monarchs- the main island of Batan was named Grafton Isle after Henry Fitzroy, First Duke of Grafton; Sabtang was named Monmouth Isle after James Scott, First Duke of Monmouth and Itbayat was named Orange Isle after William of Orange. The freebooters were led by William Dampier who stayed on the islands for three months but never claimed the islands for the British crown.

Mahatao Hedgerows
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Batanes is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east, South China Sea to the west, Bashi Channel and Taiwan to the north and the Balintang Channel to the south. It is composed of 11 islands, of which Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan Islands are inhabited while Ditarem, Adekey, Vuhus, Misanga, Dinem, Mavudis and all others are uninhabited.

We held our breaths as the Dornier plane finally landed at the Basco Airport, with its tiny terminal building inspired by the traditional Ivatan stone house, a refreshingly different architectural and classy take on the many airports that I have went through so far. Under the shadows of the looming Mount Iraya in the distance, finally we had arrived in Batanes.

Early in its history, Batanes already had a civilization flourishing on its islands and was ruled by powerful chiefs who exacted revenues, administered justice, as well as exercised military might especially during times of invasion from other tribes. The idjangs or fortresses of pre-colonial Batanes can still be found all over the islands and they are usually perched on hilltops like the ones that we have seen on Sabtang and Batan Island (Itbud). The idjang in Savidug on Sabtang Island is considered to be one of the most perfectly shaped and the most beautiful among all the Batanes idjangs. Apparently, experts have noted how these idjangs are pretty similar to the gusukus found in Okinawa, Japan. The ancient Ivatans who are Austronesian in origin lived on these idjangs since they first migrated into Batanes about 4,000 years ago during the Neolithic Period. It was during the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish governorship was established along the coastlines and lowlands which forced the early Ivatans- the people of the islands, to come down from their idjangs and convert to the new system of government. It was around 1686 and 1719 when Dominicans sent expeditions to the islands to proselytize and by 1773, the Ivatans became subjects of the Spanish King. It was only in June 26, 1783, over two centuries after the formal colonization of the Philippines by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, when Batanes was formally annexed to the Spanish Colonial State under Governor Jose Basco y Vargas. The capital town Basco, obviously got its name from the Spanish Governor General’s surname.

Batanes Lighthouse
Photo by xave

The Spanish imprint on the islands became indelible when it was finally decreed that no house should be built more than 2,786 meters (half a league) from the nearest church. The Dominican influence is very much alive today in the similar architectural styles of the Batanes churches – the most notable churches are the gorgeous churches of San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873), Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century), Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat as well as the church in Chavayan, the latter, is the only church left in Batanes which still sports a thatched roof and probably the only pink church in the Philippines, the church of Itbud.

Limestone technology was introduced to the islands by the Spaniards and is still pretty much evident among the Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof which dot the three inhabited islands. The Itbayat houses apparently are built the sturdiest as they receive the harshest winter winds from Siberia from December to February. Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses and quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang felt like being transported to another world and where time just stood still. Chavayan, which is currently nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List, was exceptionally stunning with the village nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea where the churning waters of the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It was also in Chavayan where we met Lolo Emilio, Batanes’ oldest resident at 102 years old going 103. Like most of the houses in the islands, the houses in Chavayan are normally left unlocked while the Ivatans leave for the fields to farm or to the oceans to fish. Batanes enjoys an extremely low crime rate so much that we couldn’t help but pay the local police station a visit. According to the Ivatan’s Finest, the local police force’s nickname, aside from the occasional noisy drunks, Batanes is pretty crime-free. Of course save for the Vietnamese, Chinese and Taiwanese fishermen usually caught illegally entering and fishing in Philippine waters around Batanes. Strangers greet each other on the street. After the first day, we finally caught up with this practice and I ended up greeting every person while I was taking photos by the National Highway.

Chavayan Heritage House
Photo by Dave Ryan

Just as the rains started pouring, we ducked into probably one of the quirkiest and the most refreshing places we went to – the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. The rules are simple, you choose what item you want to get, check the price list, and drop your payment into a box The owner who prefers to work in the field leaves the store and basically trusts their customers to be honest and pay the right amount even when no one’s looking. One of the signs on the wall reads “This store is too small for dishonest people.” True enough, not one customer has been dishonest so far.

It goes without saying that there are only about 15,974 (2007 census) people living on the only three inhabited islands, making the province the most sparsely populated in the Philippines and at 219.01 square kilometers, also the smallest province by land area. With the sounds of wind and the waves, there was a utter stillness even during the middle of the day in Batanes and moreso at night where streets are literally empty around 6PM. Electricity is on for 24 hours on the main island of Batan while Itbayat and Sabtang have electricity from 6AM-12MN. In the charming fishing village of Diura (three kilometers east of Mahatao town), which faces the Pacific Ocean and the site of busy arayu (dorado/mahi-mahi) fishing season in summer virtually becomes a ghost town during the cool winter season and from the cliffs in Tukun, one can see the only three lit lamp posts in the area. The fishermen of Diura perform the Kapayvanuvanua (which literally means, “the making of the port”), a ritual opening the port to obtain the favor of the spirit dwellers of the sea and signifies the start of the fishing season.

Taming the Waves at Sabtang Port
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Being master seafarers and boat builders, the Ivatans are known to be well versed in reading the stars and the phases of the moon in relation to sailing between the islands. According to our extremely helpful and hospitable Ivatan guides from the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (http://batanestravel.com/), Ely Gabilo and Tita Donato, the seas are rougher 3 days before and 3 days after a full moon and a new moon. The boats of Batanes are called the tataya (an Ivatan dory, a smaller boat usually with twin oars), the faluwa, (Ivatan boat, usually motorized as is pretty common with most boats in Batanes now and can accommodate 20-40 people and in some instances cattle and livestock- during our trip to Sabtang from Batan, we had to wait for a cow to be unloaded from the faluwa first before we boarded the last boat for the day) and the chinarem. The boats of Batanes are hardy and in the hands of a good captain, they can skillfully navigate their way through the chaotic waves that are as unpredictable as the weather in Batanes. The way I felt us moving through the waves felt like we were actually surfing the waves ( I could hear similar rushing sounds one would hear while surfing as the boat moved forward and weaved its way through the roaring waves) and eventually my suspicions were confirmed by the boatmen themselves.

The seafaring culture is pretty evident in Batanes even in the pre-Spanish boat shaped burial markers found scattered all throughout the islands (we have reports that one can find such markers at Vuhus Island, an island south of Sabtang facing the village of Sumnanga, another stunningly beautiful village made up of traditional stone houses. Sumnanga is called Little Hong Kong for the number of boats that line the coast of Duvek Bay. There are similar burial markers found on Nakamaya as well as at Nahili du Vutux, an ancient settlement which is characterized with an idjang, boat shaped burial markers, and a gorgeous view of Dinem and the eastern coast of Itbayat Island.

Windswept hills, steep cliffs, and rugged coastlines pretty much characterize typical Batanes topography, as seen in Rakuh-A-Payaman or better known for its nickname as the Marlborough Country as well as the Vayang or the Rolling Hills with the many grazing carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes), cows, horses and goats roaming the areas. The coasts made misty by ocean mists such as what we saw on our way to Chavayan along one lane road that hugs the sides of the cliffs just left us literally speechless for its absolute beauty. From Rakuh-A-Payaman as well as in Tukun, one can see the hedgerows from a distance; the spectacular scenery makes these areas one of the many favorite spots for photography in Batan Island. Tukun is the site of the northernmost Philippine weather station (PAG-ASA) in the country where the province is used as the last reference point of any tropical weather disturbance thus unfairly associating the province with perpetual bad weather. The weather station sits on top of the hill with a commanding and panoramic view of the northern portion of Batan Island where one can literally see both the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time. Also in Tukun is the beautiful former studio of Batanes’ foremost artist, the late Pacita Abad. The studio which stands on a cliff facing the Pacific is now part of the Fundacion Pacita, a charming bed and breakfast affair run by affable Former Education Secretary Butch Abad and his wife Ms. Dina Abad.

Sabtang Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes also boasts of stretches of white and cream colored sandy beaches, probably the most famous of which is the Nakabuang Beach on Sabtang with its often photographed stone/rock arch formation where picnics are usually held during the summer months. The smaller White Beach and the nearby Blue Lagoon in Mahatao offers pretty views as well. Swimming is unsafe in Blue Lagoon however, that is if you don’t want to get smashed into the massive rocks while White Beach is a good and passable beach in our opinion (however, we saw a small but growing problem of garbage around the area which we hope would be addressed pretty soon, Nakabuang Beach is in more pristine condition). A private beach, Disvayangan has a row of private picnic houses for rent. Diving (www.divebatanes.com/) is also possible in Batanes with Duvek Bay in Sumnanga having one of the best coral conditions in Batanes as well as in Siayan Island about 5.5 nautical miles from Itbayat which is surrounded by beautiful white beaches and rich coral which teems with abundant marine life.

Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island in the Philippines, however, does not have any beaches as the entire island is basically surrounded by cliffs. There are other interesting islands in the area, however, they are better reached during the summer months as travel from islands can take a lot of time and the waves can be treacherous. One of the most striking and probably one of the images that we will probably remember about our trip to Batanes would be the Valugan Boulder Beach facing the Pacific where huge smooth stones spewed out by Mount Iraya during an eruption in 400 AD are found right along the beach.

Fundacion Pacita
Photo by Dave Ryan

The formidable looking mountains and hills of Batanes are a great challenge to mountaineers. Mount Iraya on Batan Island rises to about 1,009 meters above sea level and is the highest peak on Batan Island and its spring water is the main source of water for Basco. A good climb for mountaineers, it is also home of the Batanes pit viper, an arboreal snake found only in Batanes and one of the rarest snake species in the world. The Batanes Pit Vipers live on trees and produce their young from eggs hatching within their bodies. They are typically green in color with some others having yellow, black, orange or red markings. Mount Iraya is also home to an abundant number of endemic species of flora and fauna. Some of the flora and fauna that can be found in Batanes are the Indochinese Shrew, Ryukyu Flying Fox, Asian Water Snake and plants like the Voyavoy (a Philippine date palm which is used to make another iconic Batanes item- the Vakul- the traditional headgear for women who use them to protect themselves from the sun, and the rain; the men use the traditional vests called Kanayi and the Salakut as a hat), Kanarem, and Vuhuan. The entire province was declared as a protected landscape and seascape by the Philippine government in 1992.

Cows of Batanes
Photo by Dave Ryan

On Itbayat, there is the Turungan Hill where ancient stone boat-shaped burial markers are found and believed to be the burial ground of the early Ivatans living at the Turungan Cave (believed to be the first landing place of early Austronesians from Taiwan 4,000 years ago) while Mount Ripused, considered as one of the two volcanoes (the other being Mt. Karoobuban – Itbayat’s highest point) that served to be the foundation of Itbayat, has great views southeast portion of the island including the airstrip and Lake Kayaywan. Rapang Cliff, also on Itbayat, is a natural park with rocky hills, cliffs, a forest and a grazing area. One can also find the bonsai version of the native Batanes arius tree which is commonly found all throughout the province. There is a natural stone bell which is a flat stone that lies naturally upon another stone and produces a sound resembling a bell. The stone bell served as warning system for early settlers especially when there were enemies approaching as well as a signal for meetings and goat gathering. There are also hiking opportunities on Dinem Island. Contact Batanes Mountaineers (http://batanesmountaineers.multiply.com/) for more information regarding mountaineering in Batanes.

The province also plays host to many lighthouses, the oldest (but now defunct) of which still stands in Mahatao in front of the Mahatao Church. The Basco Lighthouse on Naidi Hills which is also the site of the American era wireless telegraph facilities until being bombed to smithereens by invading Japanese Imperial Army forces is the best place to catch the picturesque Basco sunset. The Basco Lighthouse is considered the oldest working lighthouse in the province now. Other noteworthy lighthouses with gorgeous views would be the Tayid Lighthouse, on the other part of Batan Island facing the South China Sea as well as the Sabtang Island Lighthouse near Sabtang Port.

Ruins of Sungsung
Photo by Noli Gabilo

One would also find the remains of what used to be a vibrant village in the town of Uyugan, the Ruins of Sungsung, (a group of destroyed lime and stone houses a few meters from the beach) as it is called, are what is left after the village was wiped out in a tidal wave in 1954. While the houses in Sungsung were unfortunate, the UNESCO World Heritage Building House of Dakay (Vahay ni Dakay) in Ivana survived a big earthquake on September 13, 1918 which leveled the entire town. The House of Dakay, which was built in 1887 by Luisa Estrella, is one of the 5 houses which survived the tremor and went on to become the oldest existing stone house in Batanes. The house was bequeathed by Luisa to her nephew Jose “Dakay” Estrella whom the house was named after. The current occupant is Lola Florestida Estrella, a kind and rather frail looking lady in her advanced years seemed pretty happy to receive us graciously inside her home. Our guide told us afterwards that the old lady needs financial help to keep her and her house going. Also even if she is probably the most photographed woman in Batanes, she doesn’t usually get to see her photos as well. Good thing we showed her the photo that we took of ourselves with her. The house which is pretty much in great condition is made up of stone, coral and lime walls and original shutters and hardwood floors. The roof made out of cogon as is customary in traditional houses in Batanes is changed every 30 years. Also when in Batan, make time to explore Imnajbu, the last village from Basco. When residents are tending to their farms, you will probably see all the doors and windows in the village open.

House of Dakay
Photo by lightindependent

Also check the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel, where the Japanese hid during World War 2. Although areas of the tunnel were heavily vandalized and seemed poorly maintained by the local government it is still worth a visit. One can take a torch and a short guided tour inside the elaborate tunnel. Batanes was the site of the first Japanese landing in the Philippines during World War 2 which coincided with the day Pearl Harbor was bombed.

Going even further off the beaten track, there is the sinkhole which works as a giant drain in Itbayat called Manoyok which is believed to be haunted. The sinkhole was found to be around 45 meters deep with two big chambers and a narrow passage between them and apparently, this was where the ancient Ivatans used to throw witches as a punishment. There is also Kumayasakas Cave and water source, an underground stream in the northwest of Itbayat and the Rakuh-a-idi Springs (also known as the Spring of Youth) on Batan Island. If the weather permits, one may even go to the northernmost island of Mavudis (also called Y’ami), an uninhabited island covered with palms and mangoes which also serves as a refuge for fishermen. On a clear day, one can even see Taiwan. All over Batan and Sabtang we saw possible surfing opportunities for advanced surfers, we even saw a surfboard hanging around in Malakdang!

The Vakul
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes Cultural Travel Agency or BCTA (http://www.batanestravel.com) probably offers the most consistent and the most definitive travel arrangements for those planning to head out and visit these beautiful islands. We went with BCTA on this trip, and it was a very pleasant one and we were taken care of by their wonderful staff in Manila and their experienced Ivatan tour guides in Batanes. BCTA’s Manila Office is at Unit 201 Parc Chateau, Onyx Road, Ortigas Center, Pasig City, Philippines. In the Philippines: call (+63.2) 9108801. 6354810, 6342982; Mobile- 0917-811-BCTA; US/Canada – 1-888-808-4123 or you may catch them on Skype ID: bctasales.

Why Not Go

Excessive noise, rudeness and lack of cultural and environmental concern are frowned upon not only by the Ivatans but travelers like us who are protective of the stunning beauty of these islands. Trust, honesty and community spirit are the operative words here. There are no malls here, no clubs, and no fastfood chains. If you are looking for that then Batanes is not for you, so just leave Batanes alone.

Why Go

Batanes is perfect for honeymooners and other couples as the province provides a calm, serene and contemplative respite from the noise and chaos of urban living. It also great destination for serious travelers who are more interested in communing with nature and culture at the same time rather than just taking pretty photos and getting senselessly drunk.

One of the main things that we totally love about Batanes was that aside from extremely pretty scenery, amazing culture, great food and hospitable people, it is still in pretty much pristine condition and has not been ravaged by mass tourism as in a lot of places in the country. Due to its relative isolation and because it’s a little more expensive to get to, Batanes tourism, if administered properly, is poised to create an important niche in the tourism industry. For now, it has generally avoided major and noisy crowds looking to make the requisite jump shots of themselves. We hope that it stays that way for good.

Best Time to Visit

Depending on which weather you are after, Batanes is a good year round destination, save for the stormy months of July – September. The weather is cool, with the coldest months around December to February when the temperatures drop down to as low as 7C-10C. During the summer months from March to June, the seas are calmer, and trips to other islands are easier. When traveling to Batanes however, you must have a very flexible schedule as flights and boat trips can get canceled at the last minute. If you intend to travel and sufficiently cover most of the main destinations just for Sabtang and Batan, a 4 day trip can suffice, if you wish to head out to Itbayat as well, you may as well make sure that you stay there for a week. But trust us, once you get to Batanes, you actually won’t want to leave.

Where to Stay

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For now, there are enough rooms to let in Batanes. We had the pleasure of staying in three different lodgings while we were in the province. While our Sabtang trip was meant to be a day tour, the boatman refused to return to Batan because the waves were really getting rough so we ended up staying the night at the Municipal Guesthouse by Sabtang port. Arranged by BCTA, we had a rather spartan room of two single beds with the window opening to the ocean. With the windows left open to let the cool ocean air in, we slept quite soundly under a blanket.

On the second night, we ended up staying at the clean and convenient Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant in Basco on the main island, run by the very efficient Ms. Lydia Roberto, it is perfect for groups. Batanes Seaside boasts of being the official lodging place of film crews who shot the film Batanes and if I am not mistaken was also the base for the film Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit, a Tagalog adaptation of the film Wuthering Heights.

For our last night in Batanes, we were invited to stay at the sprawling Fundacion Pacita (http://www.fundacionpacita.ph/) in Tukun by Ms, Dina Abad. The well-appointed suites adorned with the artworks of up and coming Ivatan artists all sit on a cliff with private verandahs which overlook the gorgeous Pacific Ocean and the nearby fishing village of Diura. The suites are a beautiful fusion of traditional Ivatan architecture with nice maritime touches and a warm country feel. The atmosphere was incredibly dreamy and perfect for honeymooning couples. The next morning we were even invited for a cup of coffee and jam with toast by the owner herself at their main house, whose balcony has well tended topiary and a stunning view of the cliffs and the ocean. Aside from being a haven for Ivatan artists, Fundacion Pacita is also very active in heritage conservation projects all over Batanes which makes it one of our top choices of places to stay in the province.

We were meant to stay in a stone house in Diura, but due to the delay from our trip back to Batan, it was too late to arrange lodgings there. Meanwhile, Pension Ivatan’s lodgings by Valugan Beach are only open during the summer season.

Aside from these, there are other places to stay in Batanes and you may have to coordinate with them or the travel agency first before heading out there.

Where & What to Eat

Before coming to Batanes, we had no idea of the local cuisine and we did not know what to expect except that we asked BCTA to make sure we get authentic Ivatan fare all throughout our stay. And we did.

Luñis
Photo by Dave Ryan

Sabtang is perhaps known for Tatus, the local name for the Coconut Crabs. While I could not verify whether it is an endangered animal, the locals said that during the cold season, the crabs hide and are harder to catch and while we were in Sabtang, apparently we ate the last coconut crab on the island for the season. We do not support eating of endangered animals, and unfortunately we weren’t informed that it is now included among the list of threatened species and taking the Tatus out of Batanes is strictly prohibited. Skip this one out if you can. The crab gets its diet from eating coconuts thus its name, while the meat in its pincers is very difficult to get, the fat was incredibly creamy and has the slight coconut aftertaste. Also in Sabtang, we had grilled Kanañiz, which is literally a squid which is tougher and thicker than what we are used to eating. If you have sensitive teeth, you may want to pass over the Kanañiz.

Tugi
Photo by Dave Ryan

While dry and a little too crunchy, Luñis or Adobo Ivatan Style was a tasty twist on this famous Philippine dish. Instead of the usual vinegar, soy and herbs marinade, the Luñis only uses salt and is cooked until dry. Due to the unpredictable weather in Batanes, the Ivatans learned to do preserving techniques for their food to last them during the stormy months. We also had Puhug (Winged Beans or Sigarilyas in Tagalog) mixed with meat which was well cooked and all fresh and Tuhos nu Wakay (Camote Tops/ Talbos ng Kamote) sautéed in garlic which was rather clean tasting compared to the ones in Luzon. I was never a fan of the Luzon variety of Camote Tops, but I could not have stopped myself eating my veggies in Batanes. After all, Ivatans don’t use chemical fertilizers or pesticides- everything is organic!

Hapa, Ivatan Style Laing
Photo by Dave Ryan

At Rakuh-a-Payaman, we had a massive lunch and extremely delicious too. We almost devoured everything on the table (save for the plates and the cutlery). BCTA prepared such delectable Ivatan food that we are still wistfully thinking of it until this day. Aside from rice, Batanes main staple is root crops which better survive the sometimes harsh weather conditions. This is exemplified with root crop dishes such as the boiled tugi (yam) and the venes, (dried stalks of taro) where the venes is shredded and mixed with meat like beef or pork. Of course there is the hapa, an Ivatan twist to the Bicolano laing where fresh stalks of taro are cooked in fresh coconut milk and sprinkled with tiny dried fish on top, and with the Ivatan classic turmeric rice, it was just heavenly. Interestingly, the Ivatans also grill pork the way I used to, just rub the pork with sea salt and then grill it over charcoal. It gives the meat a more natural flavor and when dipped in spiced silam, (the Ivatan sugarcane vinegar) it is pure joy.

We also loved the fried dibang (flying fish, I guess the fish wasn’t quick enough as he landed on my plate) for breakfast at Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. Try the arayu (mahi-mahi) as well, which is always freshly caught from the seas surrounding the province. We were on our way back to Batan when we had to stop in the middle of the ocean when one of the passengers caught two big arayus.
For those with a sweet tooth, try their own version if uvi halaya which is a mixture of uvi (yam), dukay, and sugar cooked in fresh coconut milk.

To cap the meal, either fresh coconut juice or a warm Ivatan spirit, the palek, Batanes’ answer to the Ilocos basi (sugarcane wine) is always a great way to finish the meal. For the aged version, try the Minyuvaheng which is dark in color and the Mavaheng which is black.

Nightlife

There is almost virtually no nightlife in Batanes although we spied a karaoke machine next to Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. The best way to enjoy nights in Batanes is to sit back and relax and admire the views of the sea, the starlit skies and the cliffs from one’s hotel room balcony.

My to do List

1. Have an authentic Ivatan lunch at the Rakuh-a-Payaman.*
2. Visit and have pictures with the many docile carabaos in Vayang. *
3. Go Lighthouse hopping!**
4. Stroll along the streets of Chavayan. *
5. Get yourself a Vakul from the Sabtang Weavers. (PhP 350) *
6. Soak in the waters by Nakabuang Beach.**
7. Go hiking in Dinem.
8. Visit the burial markers in Itbayat.
9. Take a lot of photos! **
10. Take a glimpse at the artworks at Fundacion Pacita. *
11. Go mountaineering and climb Mt Iraya.
12. Share stories with Lola at the House of Dakay. *
13. Sip a cup of coffee at the Honesty Coffee Shop.**
14. Visit the churches of Batanes. **
15. Go fishing! *
16. Witness the Kapayvanuvanua in Diura.*
17. Search for the best surf spot or go diving!
18. Take out your jacket and wrap around your scarf and experience winter in the Philippines! *
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Things to Bring

• Bring your personal medicines.
• Trekking shoes.
• Cash – ATM Cards, Credit Cards are rarely accepted and used.
• Sunblock, lip balm and sunglasses.
• Bug repellent.
• Jacket, or a scarf to protect from cold during the winter months.
• Extra memory cards and batteries for the camera – we almost used up 3 GB of photos and videos.
• Mobile phone and your chargers.
• Passports for foreigners and valid IDs for identification for locals.
• A well-stocked mp3 player.
• A good book to read while you wait for boats and flights.
• Ziplocs to keep your valuables from getting wet.
• Love for the environment and for the Ivatan culture!

Stay Away From

Drowning – Make sure you wear a working life-vest when swimming in bodies of water! Keep away from raging surfs as some of the areas may have rip tides. The boatmen would usually never travel when the seas are considered rough. Heed what the locals say. Don’t go if they tell you no.

Getting There

Basco Airport Terminal Building
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes is accessible through a 1 hour and 45 minute flight from Manila through Southeast Asian Airlines or SEAIR (http://www.flyseair.com/), the only airline that currently serves the Manila-Basco route through its 32-seater Dornier planes. While flight cancellations can be common due to bad weather, the flight was generally smoother than what we expected. It was our first time with SEAIR and we were quite pleased with their simple but efficient service. To book, check out their website (http://www.flyseair.com/) or you may call them +632 849.0100 or visit their office at 2nd Floor La’O Centre, Arnaiz Ave. Makati City, Philippines 1200. Currently, the Itbayat Airport is closed for renovation and improvement. Once it is opened, flights between Basco and Itbayat would hopefully commence and bypass the approximately 3-5 hours travel time between the islands by a faluwa.

Alternatively, there are flights coming from Tuguegarao in Cagayan Province through Batanes Airlines and Chemtrad but these are mostly seasonal flights. For the adventurous, one can take the boat (MISUBI Sea Transportation Cooperative) from Santa Ana, Cagayan which supposedly plies twice a week but we have no confirmation of this information.
Around Batanes, the most common form of transportation is by riding a bicycle, which is no wonder, the province is called the Bicycle Capital of the Philippines. There were very few jeepneys available in all the islands, and if I am not mistaken, there were only or two in the entire Sabtang.

Traveling to Sabtang (45 minutes from Batan) requires one to be up very early in the morning to catch the first, and maybe the only trip for that day. Be at the San Vicente Port by 6AM and you’d be safe. Remember to be flexible with your times here as we have experienced a 4 hour wait for a faluwa going to Sabtang and an 8 hour wait going back to Batan.

A Batanes Faluwa
Photo by Dave Ryan

Prepare to walk around town as there is a dearth of public transportation on all the islands (especially in Itbayat where there still no public transportation). Otherwise, you may want to arrange with your travel agent beforehand so that vans may be provided

Pagadian City

Pagadian City Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• To Do List
• Getting There

Before it was labeled as the Regional Center of Zamboanga peninsula, Pagadian city was virtually unknown. Today though, it has been getting its fair share of tourists in the Zamboanga peninsula. The word Pagadian was derived from a local word “pangadye-on” meaning prayer or praise.

Bounded by mountain ranges, tourists would notice that Pagadian’s topography is a bit like that of Hong Kong. You’ll find that most houses in Pagadian would have rising steps which lead to gated properties or houses. To me though, Pagadian’s hilly terrain is reminiscent of Baguio city. I always tell my mom that being in Pagadian is like being in Baguio because of the mostly overcast days, and the houses with rising steps at their doors or gates.

Pagadian
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Pagadian Tricycle
Photo by MikeOcampo

Another anomaly that I noticed was how the tricycles were built in Pagadian. I found that all tricycles are inclined (obviously because of the terrain). Pagadianons pride themselves in having these unique tricycles. They say that this is the only place in the country that one can enjoy public transportation which is inclined on a 25-40 degree angle. I felt intimidated to ride the strange looking vehicles at first but after riding them for a couple of times, I started to liken tricycle rides in Pagadian to roller coaster rides (especially if you are cruising uphill or downhill).

Pagadian Tricycles
Photo by Jerome Herrera

You can also find these tricycles parked at the tricycle terminal outside of the newly built Gaisano Capital mall. The mall is the biggest in the entire Zamboanga peninsula, bigger than malls in Zamboanga city. During the past few months, Pagadian city has been experiencing a staggering increase in growth. This expansion is fueled primarily by the transfer of regional offices from Zamboanga city to Pagadian city. The Gaisano Capital mall is one of the developments that came about because of the transfer. The Gaisano Capital houses popular chains such as Jollibee, Mc Donald’s, HBC, David’s Salon, and etc. The mall’s main features are the Gaisano Capital Supermarket, Gaisano Capital Department Store, and the Gaisano Food Court.

Gaisano Capital Mall: The biggest mall in the Zamboanga Peninsula is in Pagadian
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Another distinct feature of Pagadian is that the road network is in the form of a grid. It is almost as efficient as that of New York City. Unlike other Philippine cities wherein there are only two or three routes that you could take to reach a destination, you would find that in Pagadian, there would probably be more than a hundred routes that you can take to reach a certain destination.

About thirty minutes away from the city proper is the Pagadian Rotonda. It is a park which overlooks the Pagadian bay. Horseback riding can be found inside the circular park. Ten minutes away from the seaport are the Dao Dao islands. The islands are 1.10 hectares huge. One of the islands is called Dako (big) and the other is called Gamay (small). The activities that you could do at the Dao-Dao Islands are fishing, swimming, and boating.

Lourdes Hot and Cold Springs, which is only 32 kilometers away from the city. The springs are all natural, so it is assured that they are soothing and perfectly safe. The springs are also tapped by the city’s water district as a prime source of water for the barangays, particularly Kagawasan.

Pagadian also has its share of wonderful and beautiful waterfalls that are hidden from the entrapments of modernization.

My dad always said that the Ukay-Ukay (imported used clothing store) in Pagadian is so much better than anywhere in most of Mindanao. When he comes from this city, he would always have new clothes with him. When I got to Pagadian city, I did notice a huge number of Ukay-Ukay shops and indeed most of them does offer a wide array of nice clothing. So if you’re into Ukay-Ukay, you’d probably get some good deals here.

Why Not Go

The emergence of Pagadian city as a viable tourist destination is mostly due to the recent regional office transfers. A lot of tourist spots in the city are still being developed or renovated (from years of neglect). There remain only a small number of places to go in Pagadian which are unique and worthwhile. For people who are used to the usual beach resorts, shopping malls, nightlife, and parks, Pagadian city would probably be too tame for you.

Why Go

Pagadian city is the gateway to the Zamboanga Peninsula. Since most of the cities in the peninsula are fairly small and would not take all day to tour, you could squeeze Pagadian city in a multi city Zamboanga Peninsula tour.

Best Time to Visit

Pagadian city is lovely all year round. Since the city is out of the typhoon belt area, weather systems would not affect your travel plans. Another good thing about the weather in Pagadian city is that it is usually overcast. This may be good or bad news to you, depending on the climate in your area. To me though, the occasional mild sunshine and cloudy days of Pagadian are a welcome treat.

Pagadianons celebrate two festivals every year. The first is the Pasalamat Festival in January – this festival is a form of thanksgiving by Pagadianons for the blessings they received during the past year (pasalamat means to thank or be thankful for). Pasalamat festival features a beauty pageant, parades, and trade exhibits. The other festival in Pagadian is the Megayon festival. The Megayon festival celebrates unity and between the three peoples of Zamboanga peninsula: the Christians, Muslims, and Subanens. The festival runs for a week with activities featuring cultural dances and songs, native sports competitions, peace forums, and environmental events. Megayon is held every September 17th (Zamboanga Del Sur’s anniversary as a province).

Where to Stay

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The most famous and best hotel in Pagadian city is the Hotel Alindahaw. This hotel is perfect for business travellers, vacationers, or families. The hotel is fairly new so you can expect new furnishings and the hotel to be in tip top condition. The hotel is located along Rizal Avenue, within walking distance from Gaisano Capital. You can make reservations using this contact number: 062-215400, 062-2154001.

Where & What to Eat

Greenhouse Fishing Station and Restaurant is one of the better and more upscale restaurants in the city. The place is equally lovely both day and night. Day would bring out the expanse of the complex. You would see a huge pond just besides the restaurant wherein they get the freshwater fishes that they serve to the customers. For your drinks, you could also request for fresh Buko juice served in coconut husks. At night the whole area is adorned by lights which are the perfect setting for romantic dinners.

The Nipa Hut Restaurant at the Springland Resort and Hotel
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Another great dining option is the restaurant at the Springland Hotel and Resort. The restaurant offers delicious conventional dishes at very affordable prices. The resort features a hot spring swimming pool, a lake, and a very nice garden.

My to do List

1. Marvel at the views that Pagadian’s rolling terrain provides
2. Ride Pagadian’s wacky tricycles
3. Do some shopping at the Gaisano Capital mall
4. Dine at the Greenhouse Fishing Station and Restaurant
5. Enjoy horseback riding at the Pagadian Rotonda
6. Do some swimming at the Dao-Dao islands
7. Ukay-Ukay shopping

Getting There

Since the Pagadian city airport is not yet operational, the best way to get to Pagadian is by travelling by plane to a nearby city such as Dipolog city or Zamboanga city first and then riding a bus going to Pagadian city. Bus travel from Zamboanga city to Pagadian takes six hours and around four hours from Dipolog city.

The best thing about travelling by bus is that you get to enjoy views of the mountains in the Zamboanga Peninsula.

Volcano climbing is a rising sport tourism activity around the world. Many adventure travelers are drawn to climb a live volcano for the thrill and experience it brings. The Smithsonian Institute notes that the Philippines has 50 volcanoes. It classifies Taal as a caldera, which means cauldron-like.

Taal Volcano Climbing – Crater lake
Photo by Mayumi

Our team decided to scale the heights of Taal Volcano as part of our planning session in Batangas. We would like to check its tourist appeal and we were fortunate to find many. Taking a 30-minute boat ride from Balete, Batangas, we reached the shoreline of the volcano where a lot of horsemen welcomed us. The trek path was filled with thorny bushes since this part of the volcano was “untouristy”. Most go through the Tagaytay side, which was the opposite of where we landed.

Taal Volcano Climbing – Our Team
Photo by Mayumi

Our guide took us trough a steady path. On our way up, we spotted several vegetation areas farmed by the locals – they grew kamoteng kahoy and fruit trees such as mangoes and bananas. Quite noticeable are the plants our guide called aroma, which have real big thorns and leaves like that of tamarind. The bigger version of this, they called espana. There are also mistletoe leaves – I don’t know what they are called, as well as isis or pakiling leaves. These leaves, when dried have the texture of sandpaper and I remember our teacher in primary class requiring us to bring these to clean and smoothen the surfaces of our wooden desks. There were egrets or herons flying above, and there were also unique sounding birds which I do not know. I’m sure many new species of flora and fauna could be discovered in this volcanic community, just like the smallest butterflies our team saw at the middle of the crater. They have silvery wings and are the size of an inch in wingspan.

The view atop Taal Volcano was a sight to behold. Wherever you face, you’d see wonderful scenery – the surrounding lake where we came from, and the enticing lake at the middle of the volcano. Going down to the crater lake was another 30 minutes trek so we rested a bit and had some fresh, cold coconuts. They are sold at P50 a piece. Soft drinks and mineral water are also available. We were joined by other foreign travelers who were on their way back from the crater.

Taal Volcano Climbing – Swimming in the crater lake
Photo by Mayumi

The trek downwards was more difficult. I slipped once and fell on my butt. Other of our team members were less fortunate – sliding down two or three times. Our guide said recent strong typhoon Ondoy / Ketsana destroyed the hiking trail and worse, left the path spikier. Even horses had a hard time going down.

At the bottom of the crater, we were all ready to take a dip at the lake. The trek path was so dusty, we all wanted to wash off. The ground at the lake was so hot, it was difficult to walk without slippers or shoes. Once at the lake, I noticed the water to be hot, then as I go forward, it becomes half cold and half warm. The lake floor was icky smooth. Further exploration revealed fine black sand, very sulfuric in smell. We all tried applying some on our arms, believing it has wonderful dermatological effects.

Taal Volcano Climbing
Photo by Mayumi

A part of the lake leading to the crater has a spot bubbling and smoking. The sound coming out of it is similar to exhaust rooms, and the steam was very warm. It has this weird, ugly smell. Then we checked the crater which was a big hole of bubbling gray mud. This part has the most smoke, and it seems easy to approach but once I got near, it took the best of me. I got to realize that it is a crater after all and the grounds I am standing on is live volcano. One wrong step and I could fall right into the mouth of the volcano! Maybe we all felt the same, because at this point we decided to go back via horses. Our legs were so tired and we were famished.

Horse back riding was fun, or donkey back riding I should say. We paid P400 for the horses, P200 if we rode from the crater, but the lives of the people at the foot of the mountain is unbelievable I felt confined to give more. At this time of Internet and great computers, their source of electricity is a generator. They don’t have a high school and most only finish primary school. For this, our team would surely visit again. Either for adventure tour or for community outreach.

Guest Writer: Mayumi is a part of Cultureight Travel and they offer eco-friendly small group walks and adventures in the Philippines.

Taxi

Yellow Airport Taxi
Photo by Scott Allford

For anyone arriving at Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) the first form of transport you’re going to encounter is the taxi. I have been recently told that all terminals at the airport now have yellow airport taxis. These are your best bet to get to your destination without any hassles. They are a bit more expensive than the normal white taxis, but I have never had the slightest problem with them.

Also at NAIA, you can organise a car and driver through Avis for about US$15 to take you anywhere.

When it comes to the standard white taxi, many of the drivers (especially from the airport or near clubs on Fridays and Saturdays) don’t like to use the meter. Many white taxi drivers at the airport will show you an official looking card with expensive prices to different destinations in the city, such as US$40 to Greenhills. This is a scam. They should use the meter at all times. Using the meter the trip from the airport should cost between US$3 and US$5 depending on traffic. In general, if a taxi driver doesn’t want to use the meter then you’re getting ripped off. In that case, get out of the taxi and get another one. This is what we did in Cagayan De Oro in Mindanao recently, when the driver wanted to charge us double. As soon as we stepped out of the taxi, another one came and charged the right price. However, when it comes to taxis only the major cities have them. So in most of the provinces you’ll have to find other means of getting around.

MRT/LRT

Waiting for the MRT
Photo by Scott Allford

The easiest and cheapest way to get around Manila is by taking the MRT or LRT. There are 3 lines to choose from. The LRT 1 currently runs from Baclaran Station, Pasay City up to Monumento Station, Caloocan City. The LRT 1 is the oldest and dirtiest of the lines. Next is the LRT 2 which runs from Recto Station, Quiapo (just near the D. Jose Station for the LRT 1) out to Santolan Station, Marikina City. These carriages are the largest, cleanest, and newest of the three lines. Lastly is the MRT, which goes from Taft Ave, Pasay City (near the EDSA station of the LRT 1) up to North Ave, Quezon City. Living in Makati this is the one I take most of the time. Be warned that during peak times the carriages will be full to overflowing with hot and sweaty commuters. On all lines I’m always cautious and keep a constant watch on all my valuables. To get across the city on any of these lines should cost less than US$0.50. You can get single trip tickets or stored value tickets of up to 100 PHP from the customer service windows at each station. Construction is currently underway to extend both the LRT 1 and MRT lines.

Bus

A standard Manila bus
Photo by Scott Allford

In the Philippines you can get a bus from anywhere to anywhere. In the cities buses ply routes along all of the major roads. However, you should always ask locals about the best bus to take first, as in one instance I encountered a conductor who didn’t speak any English. That said, most conductors do speak English and will be able to give you information on getting to your destination. With buses in the Philippines you get on the bus and then after sitting down, the conductor will come and ask you where you are going and you will pay him/her. Most bus journeys are cheap, less than US$1 around the city and under US$20 for most long distance trips. You can even catch buses from Manila to Mindanao. Philippines buses are either air conditioned to the extreme (bring a jacket for longer trips), or not air conditioned unless you consider opening the window air conditioning. For the latter, trips are usually much cheaper, however long trips in hot weather can be quite uncomfortable. Please see the list of bus companies on this site for more information on Philippine buses.

Jeepney

A Batanes jeepney
Photo by Scott Allford

The most common form of transport and a national icon of the Philippines is the jeepney or jeep. They are actually relics of the vehicles used by American forces during the Second World War. You can also visit the Sarao Jeepney Factory in Las Piñas, which is actually quite interesting. All over the country you can wait by the side of any major road and eventually one will come along. Some useful language for jeepney travel is “Bayad po.” meaning “Here’s my fare.” and “Para po.” meaning “Please stop.” A basic jeepney fare is currently 7 pesos (under US$0.20), however for longer trips will cost more. Such as the one we did from Manila to Tanay, Rizal which cost 55 pesos (a little over US$1). On longer trips like these, passengers and drivers are usually very helpful with giving directions and tips on where to find of the beaten track sights. Beware that in some places jeepneys are not allowed to stop yet the drivers will slow down a little and encourage you to get on. One rainy day I took a bit of a fall and cut my leg open because the driver accelerated just as I had grabbed onto the back of the jeepney. Jeepneys hold 8 or more people depending on the size of the vehicle and usually they will be loaded to their maximum capacity before undertaking a journey. In Makati City they have recently introduced E-jeepneys, which run entirely on electric power, however I haven’t had the chance to ride one yet.

Tricycle

A tricycle in Tabilaran, Bohol
Photo by Scott Allford

In most provinces and cities in the Philippines, tricycles are the main form of public transport. They’re a motorcycle with an attached and covered sidecar and they vary in shape and size. The ones in Kalibo in Aklan, Tagbilaran in Bohol, and Tanay in Rizal are the more spacious versions I have encountered and the ones in San Fernando in Pampanga are the smallest I’ve been in so far. Always be careful of hitting your head on the roof when going over bumps. Tricycles are cheaper than a taxi but way more expensive than jeepneys or buses. Before riding a tricycle always try and ask a local about how much you should pay as prices can jump for non-locals. Also be aware that if you board a tricycle to cross flood waters you should expect the price to double or triple. In Manila and some of the provinces you will also find the pedal powered version of the tricycle.

Bangka

Big bangkas in Guijalo, Caramoan Peninsula, Camarines Sur
Photo by Scott Allford

Being and archipelago of 7,107 islands, travelling in the Philippines means that at some point you will have to travel by sea. For island hopping tours and getting from island to island in general, the most common form of transport is the Bangka. These vary in size from the big ones in the above picture which seat 30-40 people to tiny ones that barely seat 4 people, 5 if the boatman stands up the whole time. In the more popular tourist destinations an island hopping trip by Bangka can cost up to 2,000 pesos (about US$45). But for general transport between islands such as between Caticlan and Boracay the fare is very small. Be advised that in some destinations boatmen will always say that it is safe to travel even if it isn’t. Going from Pundaquit to Anawangin Cove in Zambales the waves were more than twice the height of us in our tiny 4 seater Bangka yet it wasn’t until we made it back to Pundaquit that our boatman admitted it was really dangerous. We’ve also heard of many bangkas capsizing on the crossing from Batangas to Puerto Galera, so if you don’t think it’s safe then go with your gut and wait for the waves to calm down. That said, the boatmen in Batanes will tell you if the sea is too rough as they really know the sea and I fully trusted in their ability to get us from port to port.

Planes

The smallest plane I’ve ever flown in. El Nido, Palawan
Photo by Scott Allford

There are a few airlines flying within the Philippines. Philippine Airlines is the premiere airline and usually the more expensive one. They also operate PAL Express which uses smaller planes and charges less for fares and their other budget airline Air Philippines. Cebu Pacific flies to most destinations and is pretty cheap, but they have a very poor customer service (I’ve been waiting 18 months for a refund from them) and in my experience are late most of the time. SEAIR have older planes and are pretty expensive but they fly to more exotic destinations which are off the usual tourist trail. Zest Airways (Formerly Asian Spirit) had 2 minor accidents in Caticlan this year but apart from that are usually the cheapest. There are also numerous small airlines that fly specific routes such as Island Trans-voyager who fly from Manila to El Nido, but usually flights are quite pricey.

Motorellas, Multicabs, Hubal-hubal, and Vans

A motorella at Benoni Port, Camiguin
Photo by Scott Allford

In Mindanao, or specifically in the island province of Camiguin you will find the motorella. In many ways it is similar to a Thai tuk-tuk. Seating 8-10 people they are a convenient mode of transport. However, in Camiguin most forms of transport are reasonably expensive and the motorella is no exception to this. Many popular destinations also have multicabs which are like small trucks or vans with open backs. They can be hired for a day tour and are also used by many resorts such as those in Boracay away from White Beach to transport guests from the hotel to D Mall. We also rode the multicabs around Manolo Fortich in Bukidnon.

A hubal-hubal is simply a motorbike or scooter. They are a reasonably cheap form of transport for 2-3 people (including driver), however I prefer to have a bit more metal protecting me from sliding down the road in the case of an accident, so I only use them if there is no other choice.

Lastly , there are vans which run between many cities and to popular destinations all over the country. To hire a van exclusively is usually one of the most expensive ways to travel. However, travelling in a public van from Naga City to Sabang in Camarines Sur only cost 90 pesos (about US$2) for a 1.5 hour trip.

As you can see there is a multitude of ways to get from point A to point B in the Philippines. And while many of your trips will be simple, from time to time you may be able to get to experience weaving through traffic in a jeep, flying down the national highway in a topless tricycle (Korong-korong as it is called in Ilocos Norte), or just sitting back to a Filipino romance flick on a long bus trip. Just remember to be prepared to be patient and always plan ahead so you have an idea of where you are going or at least bring a map. Lastly, while travelling around the country, don’t be afraid to talk to locals travelling with you who are usually more than happy to help with directions or give you some useful travel tips.

Bataan

Bataan Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Just about 2.5 hours drive from Metro Manila is the province of Bataan, although more known for its crucial role during the World War 2 in the Pacific is increasingly a shining new eco-tourism destination which offers notable bird-watching sites, turtle sanctuaries, springs, waterfalls and of course countless, and thoughtful shrines to the courage of humanity over the horrors of a not-so distant war.

Mention Bataan and instantly what comes to mind are the horrors of the last World War, after all the infamous Bataan Death March which started in Bagac and Mariveles towns will forever be etched in the annals of world history where Filipino and American soldiers were forcibly marched. Of the 72,000 prisoners, only 54,000 reached their final destinations after enduring the most brutal conditions – while the exact count will never be determined, a lot of Filipino and American soldiers were beheaded, bayoneted, beaten by rifle butts, starved, and disembowelments were commonplace along the route which is now marked by stone markers. According to our Bataeño guides, Bataan locals, pitying the Allied soldiers, would sometimes create a commotion as a diversion so that soldiers would be able to make a dash to freedom and disappear in the crowd. Of course, like most places in the Philippines, there is more than what meets the eye.

Ciudad Acuzar
Photo by webzer

Occupying the entire Bataan Peninsula is the province of Bataan in the southwestern part of Central Luzon which faces the South China Sea and forms part of the enclosure of Manila Bay to the east. The peninsula is an extension of the rocky Zambales Mountains to the north and features Mt. Natib (1,253 meters) and the Mariveles Mountains, which includes probably the most distinguishable and most well known Bataan landmark Mt. Samat which is the location of the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) marker which commemorates the heroism and bravery as well as the horrors of the Bataan Death March.

The Historic Abucay Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Prior to World War 2, Bataan already had its share of a rather tumultuous history when in 1574 Chinese pirate Limahong used the province (Lusong Point) as a launch pad for his attempt to conquer Luzon (which was of course successfully thwarted). In 1647, the Dutch attempted the same where nearly 200 people were massacred mercilessly in the town of Abucay and over 40 (including the Alcalde Mayor and two Dominican priests) were taken as prisoners to the Dutch colony of Batavia. A plaque marker at the over four centuries-old Abucay Church (also known as St. Dominic’s Church) where the fierce battle was fought stands as a mute remembrance to the carnage in its courtyard hundreds of years ago. It was also in this church where the earliest printing presses in the Philippines began their operations. As early as 1810 Tomas Pinpin and Father Francisco Blancas de San Jose printed several books in Spanish and Tagalog. Abucay Church also features and ornately designed main door which features animals, a person and florid designs which immediately capture one’s attention. The Cathedral Parish of St. Joseph in Balanga meanwhile was used as an artillery emplacement during the Japanese invasion to bombard the Filipino and American forces who made their last stand on Mt. Samat.

The Dambana ng Kagitingan (Brgy. Diwa, Pilar) features a gigantic cross on top of a mountain (Mt. Samat) which seemed to be the silent sentinel of this peninsula. The shrine sits in an area of about 73,665 hectares and was completed and inaugurated in 1970 by then the late Philippine dictator Ferdinand Marcos. By the foot of this imposing Memorial Cross (which towers 555 meters above sea level) is the marble capped Colonnade which includes a stained glass mural behind the altar, 19 scriptural marble at the parapet. 2 bronze urns which symbolize the Eternal flame, 18 bronze insignias and its 18 flag poles with colors of USAFFE Divisions/Units, and several inscriptions of the Battle of Bataan. The cross itself is made of steel and reinforced concrete. It has an elevator and a viewing gallery located on the arms of the cross. From the base, the cross is at 92 meters while the arms are 74 meters from the base. The elevator however does not work all the time as we found out ourselves when we got there, if it is so happens that the electricity conks out while you are at the viewing gallery, you have no other option but to use the stairs coming down. Around the base of the cross are sculptural slabs and sculptural bas-reliefs “Nabiag na Bato” which portray significant historical events and battles by National Artist Napoleon Abueva. From the base of the Cross to the Collonade is a zigzagging footpath on the slope of the mountain and paved with bloodstones from nearby Corregidor Island.

Aside of course from the Dambana ng Kagitingan in Pilar, a lot of other significant historical markers dot the entire peninsula most of which refer to the significant events of World War 2 as well as other historical events. In the only landlocked town of Dinalupihan, one can find the First Line of Defense Marker, Hermosa has the Democracy and the Commemorative Markers, Orani has the Death March Marker, Abucay has the Main Battle Position Marker, Tomas Pinpin Monument and the Maria Canon Statue, Pilar has the Flaming Sword, and Battle Trail 2. Orion has the Cayetano Arellano Monument, Limay has the Alangan Marker, and Balanga City has the Surrender Site Marker (located inside the Balanga Elementary School where Maj. Gen. King formalized the surrender of the USAFFE forces in the Philippines to Lt. Gen. Homma), and the Fall of Bataan markers. Bagac town has the Battle of Toul pocket and the Philippine-Japanese Friendship marker. Both Bagac and Mariveles have the Zero Kilometer Death March markers (the Bataan Death March started at two points- Bagac and Mariveles). Meanwhile, the town of Morong which used to be refugee processing area for the Vietnamese boat people who were fleeing the Vietnam War has Vietnamese Shrines and Monuments dedicated to the erstwhile Philippine guests. The Philippines as a country has a long humanitarian tradition of accepting refugees from other countries from the Malay chieftains fleeing the iron-fisted rule of Sultan Makatunaw in Borneo to the Jewish people during Nazi occupation of Europe and from the Vietnamese boat people to the North Koreans using the Philippines as a transit country to South Korea.

Vietnamese Shrine in Morong, Bataan
Photo by chewychua

Far from just being stuck in the past, Bataan now is a hub of industry and a growing and important ecotourism destination. For its part, Balanga City, the capital, is becoming increasingly noticed in the international bird-watching circles with three known birding sites: the Sibacan-Lote Bird Site, Pto, Rivas Ibaba Bird Site and the Tortugas Bird Site, where we experienced birding for the first time. The entire peninsula lies in the path of the East Asian-Australian Flyway where massive numbers of birds undertake an annual exodus from north to south all around the world during the months of September to March of the following year to escape the harsh winters. As these birds travel, there are several requisite stops along the way, one of these many stops in the Philippines is Balanga where a huge number of water and forest birds from China, Japan, Siberia, Russia and Canada stop over at the wetland, and mangrove forests of the area. January 2009 saw Balanga top the annual Asian Waterbird Census in the Philippines conducted by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines with a whopping total of 15,271 waterfowl count. At least 35 species and 15 families were recorded flying this migration route.

It was quite refreshing to know that the local government unit in Bataan is actively involved in protecting the mangroves, the mudflats, grasslands and wetlands of the region. We spied a mangrove nursery in Tortugas while we were there, nets were also installed along the coasts to catch trash that washes out of Manila Bay. The local government of Bataan and the communities face an arduous and uphill battle, but so it seemed for us, the current crop of Bataan officials does have a great concern towards the environment. The best time to go birding is around 6:30AM-7:30AM in the morning, and make sure you bring with you a pretty good pair of binoculars. There is a little bit of development around the area with an observation deck being constructed in the area. The local government of Balanga is hoping to provide birders, students and tourists a nature walk, trail hiking jogging paths, camping, boat rides, and forest exposure experience in its sanctuaries. Being amateur birders as we are, we spotted egrets, herons and kingfishers during our brief yet exhilarating experience. Make sure you wear earth-tone colored shirts as loud colors may distract and drive away birds.

Bird-watching in Balanga
Photo by Dave Ryan

The Tortugas site which is also home to a coastal community whose main livelihood depends on fishing, and processing fish sauce and smoked fish is also an excellent feeding and roosting ground for Black Headed Gulls, Curlew Sandpipers, Blue Tailed Bee Eaters, Wood Sandpipers, Terek Sandpipers, Great Egrets, Asian Dowitcher, Common Kingfishers, Cattle Egrets, Sunbirds, Little Egrets, Whimbrels, Marsh Sandpipers, Black Crowned Night Heron, Rails, Shrikes, White Collared Kingfishers, White Winged Terns, Whiskered Terns, Chinese Egrets, Intermediate Egrets and many other shore birds.

Sibacan-Lote Site meanwhile is home to Fantails, Shrikes, Flycatchers, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Trillers, as well as the Asian Golden Plover, Redshanks, Greenshanks, Pacific Golden Plovers, Kentish Mongolian Plovers, Black Winged Stilts, and many other insect and flower feeding birds as well as several species of egrets.

Pto. Rivas Ibaba Bird Site is also a stopover meanwhile to Purple Herons, Brahminy Kites, Chestnut Checked Starlings, Wood Sandpipers, Grey Herons, Rufous Necked Stints, White Breasted Waterhens and even the fastest animal in the world was sighted here– the Peregrine Falcon!

Itching to try birding in Bataan? You may contact the helpful people of Balanga City Tourism Office (+63.47.7914008/ tourism@cityofbalanga.gov.ph/ www.balangabirds.com) or the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines (Joey Soriano – jotsoriano@yahoo.com).

The Pawikan
Photo by Racaza

Aside from the bird-watching, Bataan is also known for the Pawikan Conservation Center in Nagbalayong, Morong, Bataan where a community moves to protect sea turtles (locally known as Pawikan) nesting and hatching on its beaches. A community organization composed of former poachers, government agencies and volunteers make up the center which is still being run since it was first established in 1999 in stemming the tide of killing these gentle sea creatures where only 1-3% of the baby turtles ever reach maturity. The Pawikan Conservation Center faces a difficult task ahead of them due to the challenges of climate change as well as poaching by Chinese and Vietnamese fishermen and even Filipino fishermen in other parts of the country. This is aside from the perils that these turtles face from their natural predators such as sharks. To read more and know how to help – read my article on Pawikan Conservation here. We had a great time learning a lot about conservation while we were at the Pawikan Conservation Center and you can even join the group patrolling the beaches around midnight to watch out for turtles who come ashore to lay eggs. Make sure you bring a torch, and for beginners, we’d suggest you to take the easier beach patrol to the left of the sanctuary. Skip the part where you needed to take off your clothes to wade in some chest-deep water. I don’t think that would be very safe especially when you do it in the dead of the night.

The peninsula is also a very good place to do mountain biking with its many winding roads hugging the mountains and different terrains and gorgeous vistas along the way, Bataan holds a lot of promise in this area. We have seen a few mountain bikers in Bataan during our stay. Mountain climbing and trekking exists around the Orani-Morong area with the mountains of Sta. Rosa (800 meters), Natib (1,253 meters), Silanganan (910 meters), and the Bataan Peak (1,000 meters) compose the Bataan Natural Park. Near Mt. Natib are the Pasukulan Falls (Abucay) and the Pilis Falls (Samal). For sure, there are a lot of waterfalls that are still undiscovered in these mountains as well as in the mountains in southern part of the peninsula. Pantingan Peak (1,388 meters) in southeastern borders of Bagac, Mt. Limay (946 meters) in Limay, Mt. Bataan (1,362 meters), Tarak Peak (1,000 meters) and Mt. Mariveles 1,388 meters) offers more mountain climbing and trekking opportunities.

Make sure not to miss the Dunsulan falls near Mt Samat and Kairukan Falls in Morong as well if you have the time. Other beautiful waterfalls that exist in Bataan are the Marukduk Falls, Ambon-ambon Falls and Limutan Falls (Bagac), and Tukal Falls (Hermosa). Aside from the waterfalls, there are many ways to cool down in Bataan and one of which is the natural spring water swimming pools of Sibul Spring in Abucay where pools of varying sizes line the side of a tree-covered hill. The crystal clear waters come from a spring which feeds into the pools. Sibul Spring is a popular destination especially for locals during the scorching summer months and this is also where the best swimmers of the province hone their skills in time for the Philippine National Games. There are some open-air huts for rent as well. Unlike other resorts, we found Sibul pretty clean and dainty and perfect for a restful swim. The local government is currently sprucing up the place, and more amenities should be available for all its guests. As of this writing, overnight stays are still not allowed in Sibul. There is a staircase going up to the top of the hill where a statue of a Japanese goddess (we presume to be) was erected. The Maria Canon statue as it is called was erected for the repose of the souls of those who have fallen during World War 2, and for those who perished on the fields of Gabon, Abucay. It was built by Mie-kin Daichi Shichmucho of the Sohtahsih sect in September 1970.

There are other sports activities happening all around the province such as motocross (Pilar-Orion, Mariveles-Bagac), Mountain Biking (Mariveles, Bagac, Orion from November to April), Circuit Racing (Balanga), Airsoft war games (Pulong Bato, Orion), and Practical Shooting (BATAS Firing Range, Limay), Notable events are the Senakulo (Holy Week, Calaguiman, Samal), Bataan Day (April 9, Dambana ng Kagitingan/Shrine of Valor, Mt. Samat, Pilar), Banga Festival (Last Week of April, Balanga), Pawikan Festival (Last Week of November, Morong), Tagak Festival (November 24, Bagac) and the Paskuhan sa Mabatang (December 15 to January 6, Abucay).

A reproduction of an Escolta building at Ciudad Acuzar
Photo by Dave Ryan

The biggest surprise that we ever encountered in Bataan was the 400 hectare Ciudad Acuzar in the town of Bagac where a collection of Indio stilt houses, 18th century Principalia mansions, and stone houses stand. For those who are loyal followers of Philippine TV, the place would have been very familiar because it was where the Philippine version of Zorro was shot. Our jaws literally dropped and I almost screamed with delight when we entered the huge estate. Imagine abandoned and decaying centuries-old colonial houses from all over Luzon faithfully restored brick by brick, plank by plank, and laid out in clusters next to the sea. The streets were made of bricks as well with a tastefully done plaza at the center- just a spectacular study of Philippine colonial architecture that can probably put Vigan to shame (Vigan’s main advantage however was that the houses were all originally built in the same area as opposed to the relocation done with the houses in Ciudad Acuzar). An entire row of Escolta buildings were also recreated straight from an old photograph. Escolta was Manila’s former commercial center during its heyday (this was where the young and statuesque Imelda Romualdez became a saleslady before going on to be one of the most powerful women in the world).

Ciudad Acuzar was the brainchild of Mr. Jerry Acuzar, an architect and real estate magnate and plans are afoot to turn some of the buildings into a hotel and since the project wasn’t finished yet, we were among the first ones to ever see and enter the place. We were literally astounded about how gorgeous the newly restored houses were and wistfully thought how Manila could have looked the same had the last World War not come and ravaged the city. The Ciudad Acuzar project was also a testament in heritage conservation and paying more than lip service in restoring part of our past as a nation. Ciudad Acuzar is still off limits to the general public but should be open around December 2010.

Despite the association of Bataan with large industrial factories and the mothballed Bataan Nuclear Power Plant (that never opened), I say Bataan is on the right track in its massive efforts in environmental conservation done not only by the local communities but with its very able local government.

Dambana ng Kagitingan
Photo by Dave Ryan

Why Not Go

If you are on the lookout for huge malls or powdery white sand beaches then Bataan is not the proper destination for you, otherwise, the peninsula offers a different experience that seasoned travelers like we are, are going to really appreciate. To keep in touch, however, the local government of Balanga has turned the entire city proper into a wi-fi hotspot.

Why Go

Bataan is an excellent ecotourism destination that rarely sees tourists even if it is very close to Manila. The peninsula offers a lot of lessons in ongoing environmental and heritage conservation as well as the lessons of history and humanity. For those who swing by and want a quick yet meaningful getaway from Manila, Bataan is a very good option for weekend travelers.

Best Time to Visit

While generally Bataan is a good destination the whole year round, generally avoid the Holy Week season around March and April to avoid large crowds, you may however, schedule your trip around the months when festivals are held. Be sure to check the local weather to be sure especially if you plan to trek the mountains. You may also coordinate with the local tourism office and the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines for the best times to spot the migratory birds if you plan to go birding. Turtle hatchlings are released into the sea usually in a festival around the last week of November so you may contact the Pawikan Conservation Center as well for that information. Mobile phone signal is quite choppy in Nagbalayong, Morong where the conservation center is located so you may have to contact the Bataan Tourism Office. You can look for the Provincial Tourism Officer Ceasar Cuayson or any of his staff (tourism_bataan@yahoo.com) for additional assistance.

Where to Stay

Save up to 75% on hotels in Philippines

There is not a dearth of places to stay while in Bataan. You may check out these places that we went and visited which seem to cater more to big conference type events.

St. Gabriel Hotel and Resort in Pilar (www.stgabriel-hotelandresort.com) has a log cabin inspired architecture mashed with other influences, the kids would love the swimming pools and the well appointed rooms. Like St. Gabriel Hotel and Resort, Raven Resort & Log Cabin in Abucay (www.ravenresort.com.ph) is also log cabin inspired with many pools that the children would love and is also perfect for huge family reunions or company seminars or team-building activities. Other resorts that are perfect for these kinds of groups are La Vista Inland Resort and the Crown Royale Hotel both in Balanga (www.crownroyale.com) and Vista Venice Resort (+63.916.6737958/Marian de Leon) in Morong another inland resort with pools and great views of the surrounding lush hills of Morong. For a more complete list of accommodations in Bataan, visit: tourism.bataan.gov.ph/accomodation.html. In our case, we stayed in rather austere but comfortable lodgings at the Pawikan Conservation Center. You may contact them through the details listed on our Pawikan Conservation Center article.

Where & What to Eat

Sinigang na Manok sa Ayo
Photo by Dave Ryan

Aside from the famed smoked fish called tinapa, tuyo (dried fish) and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste), Bataan is probably best known for its own version of the classic Southeast Asian sour soup, Sinigang na Manok sa Ayo. Ayo leaves are used to flavor this kind of Sinigang and chicken is best used as meat for this dish. The result is a sweetish sour version of the Sinigang, quite peculiar to the types we have had before. You may try this dish at the Joyous Resort and Restaurant (www.joyousresort.com/) in Balanga who gladly prepared this dish for us upon request.

Nightlife

Bataan’s nightlife is concentrated in the many resorts all over the province. While relatively modest compared with the glitz and glamour of neighboring Manila, Bataan offers a sincere respite from the drudgery of city living.

My to do List

1. Visit the Pawikan Conservation Center. Donate! *
2. Admire the panoramic vistas from the viewing gallery of the Dambana ng Kagitingan..**
3. Spot migratory birds at the bird-watching sites in Balanga City.*
4. Buy a backpack (PhP 1500) from the Made in Mariveles, Bataan! We did and we liked it!
5. Chill out at Sibul Spring.**
6. Taste the uniquely Bataan specialty Sinigang sa Ayo at Joyous .*
7. Visit the many historical markers in the peninsula.**
8. Stroll around the stunning estate of Ciudad Acuzar.*
9. Hit the trail and climb Mt. Natib. **
10. Cool down in the many waterfalls of the province. **
11. Walk the hanging bridge in Morong.
12. Go mountain-biking! **
13. Check out the Dragon Fruit farm (Contact the Bataan Tourism Office for this).
14. Sun by the beach at the exclusive Anvaya Cove in Morong.
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Make sure you wear a working life-vest when swimming in bodies of water!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock.

Getting There

Getting Around Balanga
Photo by Dave Ryan

Bataan is now made more accessible via the Subic Clark Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX) and Northern Luzon Expressway (NLEX). There are buses running direct to Balanga and Mariveles through Genesis Buses. Bataan is about 124 kilometers away from Manila. From Olongapo City, you can also take the Victory Liner Buses. Tricycles and jeepneys are the primary modes of transport around Bataan. There was a quicker way via a ferry from the CCP terminal to the port in Orion but the service was discontinued. By air, you may go through the Diosdado Macapagal International Airport in Clark, Pampanga or through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminals in Manila and make the requisite land transfers.