Tawi-Tawi

Tawi Tawi Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

A charming and majestic chain of islands straddling peacefully between Sulu Sea and Celebes Sea in the southwestern Philippines is the exotic Tawi-Tawi province. Here, you have hundreds of beautiful tropical islands and islets to choose from with unspoiled white-sandy beaches and serene landscapes. From sacred mountain and the rolling hills where the provincial capitol building is located to white-sandy beaches of hundreds of islets plus the gentle and so kind local people, Tawi-Tawi is truly a paradise. And by the way, it is very safe here because the locals from different groups are living harmoniously altogeter.

Tawi-tawi consists of 307 islands in the southwestern part of the Philippines. In fact, the province is a lot closer to Sabah, Malaysia than to Mindanao (where this province belongs). The locals here consist mainly of Tausug, Sinama, and Bajao. There are also coming from nearby provinces of Sulu and mainland Mindanao. They are peace-loving people and they live here harmoniously. Because of the unfair mainstream media, Filipinos and foreigners find Tawi-tawi as a no-go or dangerous destination. What we have heard or seen in the TV news is totally opposite. Tawi-Tawi is relatively safe. The capital town is Bongao.

Sunrise
Photo by Robert

Why Not Go

If you are looking for posh malls, bars, clubs and all night fun in street parties just like in Manila or other big Philippine cities, this is not a perfect destination for you.

Why Go

Tawi-Tawi has a lot to offer to travelers whether group or solo traveler. If you love mountain climbing, they have it here. Standing so proud in Bongao Island is the Bud Bongao which is considered as a sacred mountain by the locals.

They have beautiful beaches and the province is perfect for island hopping to nearby islands such as Simunul where the first mosque in the Philippines was built.

It is quite interesting that the locals here are from different groups such as Tausug, Sinama, Bajao, and other groups from Mindanao and they are living peacefully and harmoniously. These people love to talk with the outsiders. You’ll become an instant rockstar in here.

Sunset
Photo by Robert

Best Time to Visit

This province is not located along the typhoon belt of the Philippines, thus visiting here can be done all year round. But since this tropical archipelagic province is located between Sulu Sea and Celebes Sea, rains may fall at any given time but lasts only for a short period of time which is common to tropical places surrounded by waters.

Where to Stay

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I stayed at Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant. The good thing in this hotel is that it is just a walking distance from the town center but away from the hustle and bustle. Standard room costs PhP 850 per night. You can reach them at 068-268-1248 for reservation. Tricycle fare from here to the town center (if you don’t want to walk) is only PhP10.

One can try also Beachside Inn (068-268-1446) but it is a lot farther from the town center. Tricycle fare from the town center up to here is PhP20. I went here one night for a beer or two. They have barbeque choices here as well as karaoke. This is where the locals hangout for the night because of the breezy ambiance as it is located by the beach. I was able to talk to the owner and she asked me to try their place to stay the next time I come to Tawi-Tawi.

Bongao Town Center
Photo by Robert

Where & What to Eat

If you want to try local Tawi-Tawi foods such as sati, you can go to any eating places at the town center or near the pier. One can also find Malaysian food here such as nasih goreng. But I don’t recommend the eating places here because of not-so-clean location. The main drawback in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi is trash. There are many litters along the streets of Bongao. I hope that the locals here would work hand in hand for the cleanliness of their surroundings. I believe that cleanliness begets tourists, tourism begets job, and job begets better life. For sure, Tawi-Tawi will become a perfect paradise if there are no trashes around.
I highly recommend the foods at Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant.The Beachside Inn has tasty and delicious barbeques as well.

Nightlife

Although the dominant religion here is Islam, one can find alcohol here. I spent my night at the Beachside Inn for a beer or two and it is also the best place to see and to be seen during the night.

My to do List

• Climb the Bud Bongao – Wherever you are in Bongao or Sanga-Sanga islands, this sacred mountain catches your attention. It’s like a head-turner in this side of Tawi-Tawi. According to the locals, you have never been to Tawi-Tawi if you have not climbed Bud Bongao. From the town center or wherever your hotel is, just hire a tricycle and tell the driver to drop you off at the jump-off point of Bud Bongao and pay him PhP25. Climbing here is so easy. It takes only up to 1 hour going up to the summit since this mountain is not that tall. You have to make sure that you have a good-grip type of footwear, endurance, and don’t forget to bring bananas with you because you will encounter macaque monkeys along the way up. These bananas will serve as your gift to these cute monkeys. These monkeys are said to be the guards of this sacred mountain. One strange thing here, you will never encounter them again on your way down. Once you are at the summit, your eyes can capture the nearby islands such as Sanga-Sanga island with its airport runway as well as the outline of Sabah, Malaysia during clear sunny day. Essential things to bring here are bananas for the monkey and a liter or two of bottled water for you. Just wear light clothes and a good-grip type of footwear. For those who hates the extreme heat of the sun at the peak of this mountain, you may want to bring bullcap or pashmina shawl with you.

Bud Bongao
Considered as a sacred mountain by the locals
Photo by Robert

Cleanliness is Next to Godliness
A friendly reminder written in Tausug dialect with English translation. Tausug is one of the dialects spoken here. Others are Sinama, Cebuano, Chavacano, and Bahasa.
Photo by Robert

Bud Bongao Summit
From here, one can see the runway of the Sanga-Sanga airport. It’s a perfect place for plane spotting. On a very clear day, the outline of Sabah Malaysia can be seen from this point. The islands of Simunul, Sibutu, Sitangkai, and smaller ones are very visible.
Photo by Robert

• Stroll at the Chinese Pier (locally known as jambatan) – You will see several boats dock at the pier. These boats transport people, goods and animals from one island to another. I was able to talk to friendly locals here and they said that they have the so-called “back-door boat” that can transport them to Malaysia illegaly. They do this to find a better life there and could send money back home. The pay to this boat can range from PhP1500 to PhP3000. They don’t even bring their passport with them because they don’t go through to Malaysian Immigration control. Once at the port of call in Malaysia, they will be disembarked stealthly by the boat operators. The chance of getting caught by the Malaysian police is so high. That is why many of our fellows return to Tawi-Tawi empty handied and back to their real lives here.

Houses on stilts
Photo by Robert

Chinese Pier
Photo by Robert

• The Provincal Capitol – This capitol has a unique image because it looks like a mosque. It is located at the Capitol hill. It is better to go up here in the afternoon up to early evening as the backdrop of the town center lights add to the magnificent view from here. From the Capitol building, you will see the sprawling town center of Bongao as well as the nearby islands of Sanga-Sanga, Pababag, and Simunul. Just hire a tricycle and tell the driver to drop you off at the jump-off point going to the Capitol. Fare is PhP15 from the town center.

The Provincial Capitol of Tawi-Tawi
Photo by Robert

• Island hop to Simunul Island – It is where the first mosque was built and Islam was established by Sheik Makdum.

• Talk to the locals – As I have mentioned previously, the locals are from different groups but they live peacefully and harmoniously. They are so friendly and they love to talk with the outsiders. You will become an instant rockstar here.

Stay Away From

Crimes, whether big or small, happens anywhere in the world. So, be vigilant to your surroundings where ever you are. In Tawi-Tawi, I never felt unsafe in any situation. Again, it is only due to the unfair news report spread by the mainstream media that created bad images to this southwesternmost province of the Philippines. It’s more fun in Tawi-Tawi because it is very safe here.

Getting There

Thanks to Cebu Pacific and Airphilexpress, getting to Tawi-tawi is now a piece of cake unlike before. Years ago, one had to take almost an entire day for a boat ride from Zambonga to here. Even though these boats are still another option, the best pick to go to Tawi-Tawi is by airplane which takes only 45 minutes from Zamboanga. By the way, there is no direct flight between Manila and Tawi-Tawi. One has to catch first a flight to Zamboanga. Zamboanga can be reached by plane from any large cities in the Philippines such as Manila, Cebu, and Davao. The flight between Zamboanga and Tawi-Tawi is only 45 minutes and the plane lands at Sanga-Sanga Airport.

Sanga-Sanga Airport Terminal
Photo by Robert

At the airport, there are tricycles waiting for the passengers. It is better to contact your hotel beforehand if they have an airport-hotel transfer, otherwise you may want to take the tricycle that will cost you PhP100. Tricycle ride from airport (which is in Sanga-Sanga Island) takes 10 to 15minutes to get to the town center of Bongao (in Bongao Island). In Bongao, the mode of transportation is tricycle in which the regular fare is PhP10 while boat is essential by going to other island municipalities. There are no taxis here.

Guest Writer: My name is Robert L. Mamacos. I am an engineer by profession (Electronics & Communications Engineer). Currently, I work in an American engineering firm in Ortigas Center. I love travelling and I am a backpacker. I have been to USA, Japan, China, Taiwan, Italy, Netherlands, most of Southeast Asia, and almost the entire Philippines as well. I was born and raised in Davao City. Now I live in Manila since 2002.

Yvekes: In January 2010 we will visit the Philippines for the third time, this time we want to focus on Mindanao.
For this I have a question: is it safe, and possible, to explore the region around Lake Lanao and Marawi on our own pace, so without a guide and with public transport, bus and boat?
Are there any places to stay in the area, or do we have to contact the mayor to arrange a bed?

Answer

Ryan: Lake Lanao and the Marawi area is NOT safe to go around right now especially unescorted or during the months running up to the elections next year.Skip the area for now. Even my friends in Iligan dissuaded us to go to the area even if Marawi is just 30 minutes away from Iligan.
Hope that helps. Choose the Surigao provinces instead or Camiguin.
Cheers.
Ryan

Question

Yvekes: Why would you prefere the Surigao area? Is this just your personal preference?

Answer

Ryan: Northern and Eastern Mindanao and Davao normally are safer compared to the ones in ARMM which are NOT safe around this time. I base my observations from what I have heard from my friends who live in Mindanao and also news reports coming from that region. I am not sure whether Sultan Kudarat, Cotabato City and Maguindanao are under a state of emergency after the recent things going on in Ampatuan, Maguindanao (which is at least 1,000 kilometers away from Manila by the way). These are just my suggestions, if you really wish to go, no one can stop you – just exercise extreme caution when traveling around those areas especially during these elections season.
Cheers.
Ryan

Dapitan City

Dapitan City Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Getting There

Jose Rizal’s home for four years, Dapitan city is the ultimate shrine city of the Philippines. But Dapitan city is not anymore all about Jose Rizal. This once quaint and charming small town is turning to be the most modern and vibrant city in the northern end of the Zamboanga peninsula.

Six hundred fifty kilometers away from Metro Manila lays a once sleepy town called Dapitan. Dapitan used to be so rural that the only reason why you’d go there is to visit relatives. After all why would you travel hundreds of kilometers for a white sand beach resort or Jose Rizal memorabilia?

But Dapitan is more than Jose Rizal and Dakak. The newly opened Gloria de Dapitan is changing the face of Dapitan into a vibrant entertainment city. What once was a sleepy historic town with Dakak beach resort as its flagship tourist attraction is now fast becoming the premiere entertainment center of Mindanao.

Most people would probably be amused at the fact that practically all locals in Dapitan know Jose Rizal more than the average Filipino does. If you try asking a local (even small kids) about Jose Rizal, you’ll find that you would be bombarded with interesting facts about the Philippines’ national hero aside from your question being answered. Regardless, if it’s just a side trip, one should definitely not miss going to the Rizal shrine in Dapitan. Inside the Rizal shrine complex is a replica of the three houses which Jose Rizal built (one of which is square wherein Jose Rizal, his mother, his sister and his nephew lived, another which is octagonal wherein Jose Rizal’s students lived, and a third one which is hexagonal that served as a chicken barn. One can also find Rizal’s relief map of Mindanao and Visayas, Rizal’s self designed water system, and numerous other memorabilia inside the shrine. Jose Rizal’s house, kitchen, and clinics are all replicas but memorabilia found inside the Rizaliana museum are all originals. Despite the revelation that Jose Rizal’s house in the shrine is just a replica, it does not take away from the fact that it once housed the greatest Malayan in history.

The octagonal house built by Jose Rizal
Photo by dominicmeily

The Rizal shrine can be found in the village of Talisay. All tricycle drivers know where to bring you if you say that you want to go to the Rizal shrine. Getting around Dapitan city is fairly easy. You’ll find that transportation is relatively cheap. A tricycle ride to generally anywhere would cost only five to ten pesos. Tricycles are the only public transportation available here.

The Dakak Park Beach Resort in Taguilon is located about fifteen minutes away from the Jose Rizal shrine. Dakak has seven hundred and fifty meters of private beach access covered in fine white sand. In this part of the country, the Dakak Park Beach Resort is probably the most modern and the best equipped. Water activities available at the Dakak park beach resort are jet skiing, kayaking, sailing, boating, scuba diving, fishing, swimming and snorkeling while non-water activities include hiking, billiards, archery, bowling, golfing, tennis, horseback riding, and karaoke. What I love about Dakak is that it is bounded by green mountains on the east giving it a secluded feel. Accommodations are in the form of villas made from bamboo and nipa (traditional building materials) which give the resort a very tropical look. Dakak is very well maintained and reasonably affordable.

Footprints on Dakak’s white sand
Photo by dominicmeily

You’re probably thinking that having seen one white sand beach resort, you’ve seen them all. Treat Dakak differently though. It’s not your typical crowded and noisy commercialized white sand beach resort; you’ll find that it is a tranquil white sand beach resort with modern amenities, but with a very homey atmosphere. The resort features amenities such as restaurants on site, two natural spring water swimming pools, a sports center, a golf resort, a Jacuzzi, a playground, a chapel, spa services on site, a sauna, medical facilities, and a disco. Interested parties can contact the Dakak Park Beach Resort through the following numbers: 02-7212726 / 7245648 / 0917-8315566.

Secluded behind mountains covered with trees is the Dakak park beach resort
Photo by dominicmeily

Situated twenty minutes away from the Dakak Park Beach Resort, and ten minutes from the Rizal shrine is the Gloria de Dapitan, which is fast bringing forward a new Dapitan, one wherein the city is not all about Jose Rizal anymore.

The Gloria de Dapitan (literally the glory of Dapitan in Spanish) is a three hectare commercial complex. It features a modern, computer operated bowling alley, a gym with state-of-art fitness equipment, a computer game arcade, resto bars, disco pubs, coffee shops, and boutiques. Inside the Gloria de Dapitan commercial complex is the Gallera de Dapitan which holds cockfights (a favorite pastime of the locals), boxing matches, and concerts and the Gloria Fantasyland. The Gloria Fantasyland is a theme park comparable to the Enchanted Kingdom in Luzon. It features thirty one rides including a carousel, a Ferris wheel, a roller coaster, bumper cars, the Galleon ship, Majestic Swan, and others. There is also a horror house designed by an Eat Bulaga artist.

What makes the Gloria Fantasyland special is the fact that this amusement park is the first of its kind in Mindanao. Ride-all-you-can tickets are priced at three hundred pesos. The park is open from five in the afternoon until twelve midnight.

Why Not Go

A few years ago, mainstream tourists would find Dapitan City too provincial. Today, though I can only think of one reason why one would not enjoy Dapitan City and that would be if that person is looking for extreme outdoor activities such as mountain and rock climbing. But for those light outdoor adventure seekers, Dapitan does offer hiking, spelunking, and cove hopping. If you are a family traveling, I am pretty sure Gloria de Dapitan and the Jose Rizal shrine would keep you entertained and fascinated. Meanwhile, a group traveling would definitely find Gloria de Dapitan and/or the Dakak beach resort most exciting.

Let me set your expectations though. While most facilities at the Gloria de Dapitan commercial complex and Dakak Park Beach Resort are modern, you’ll find that they are not up to par with those in more progressive areas such as Metro Manila. For those who are from Mindanao and Visayas though, these two will do.

Why Go

Dapitan City caters to almost all kinds of tourists. Whether you’re looking for some outdoor fun, history, adventure, or relaxation, Dapitan has it all.

Best Time to Visit

If you’re visiting Dapitan City primarily to wade in the waters along Dakak’s white sand beach, then summer time is the best time to go. You may find more people in the area (than usual) during the summer season, but compared to other beach resorts like those in Visayas, the crowd is tolerable.

Another good time to go to Dapitan City is during the Kinabayo festival. The Kinabayo festival is a yearly event in Dapitan city which honors their patron saint, Saint James. Kinabayo is held annually every June 12 to July 25. The festival features street dances and parades. The activities during the festival are usually centered on the theme of the festival which is the battle of Covadonga. The battle of Covadonga is one of the Spanish-Moorish wars wherein it was believed that the Spanish won against even though all odds were against them with the help of Saint James.

Like in all Philippine festivals, the Kinabayo culminates with the locals going to churches for a special mass. Aside from Kinabayo, there are other festivals and events in Dapitan which are held every June and July. So if you prefer a Dapitan bustling with activities and shows, June and July are the best times of the year to go.

Where to Stay

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The best place to stay while in Dapitan City is Monina’s Pension House. This lodging offers basic clean rooms with air conditioning, cable TV, and hot and cold running water. There’s nothing fancy about the Monina’s Pension House as it doesn’t offer amenities that big hotels would. But then again, you’re not going on vacation in the hotel. You’ll be outside most of the time anyway.

The best thing about this place is its location. It is within walking distance from the Gloria fantasyland and from numerous restaurants along Sunset Boulevard and is right on the beach. One can even take a stroll on Sunset Boulevard (just outside the hotel).

Since it’s not a big chain hotel, you’ll find that personalized attention is given to guests. In fact, the quiet and homey feeling that this place gives its guests is one of its best selling points to visitors in Dapitan City.

Where & What to Eat

The shores of Dakak are turned into a grand outdoor dining area in the evening. Tables are set up so guests can enjoy the sumptuous seafood buffet while being treated to a cultural dinner show. I would personally recommend dining at this alfresco restaurant in Dakak since it’s definitely going to be a unique experience. Other dining options outside of Dakak in Dapitan include Señor Santiago Steak House (featuring Australian cuisine and specializing in Aussie barbecue dishes) which is located inside the Gloria de Dapitan commercial complex and the newly opened Dapitan City Aquamarine Park (located on the boundaries of Banonong and Polo villages) which offers seafood bred from their pond and dining in tiny cottages.

Dakak’s shores turn into an outdoor dining area by night
Photo by dominicmeily

Nightlife

By six in the evening, most commercial establishments are already closed for the day in the shrine city of the Philippines. Dapitan virtually had zero nightlife before Gloria de Dapitan. But today you can still find patrons and tourists at the numerous disco pubs and bars in the commercial complex even at two in the morning. One of the more popular ones is BJ’s loft which features in house music and modern lighting technology.

My to do List

1. Bask on Dakak’s white sand beaches.
2. Go horseback riding and hiking in the mountains of the Dakak Park Beach Resort.
3. Ride all thirty one rides at the Gloria Fantasyland.
4. Engage in a conversation with a local about what Jose Rizal did while in exile in Dapitan.
5. Relive Jose Rizal’s exile days in Dapitan.

Getting There

There are four ways to get to Dapitan city. First is taking a flight to Zamboanga City then a bus to Dapitan City. Another option is to take a flight to Dipolog city then a bus to Dapitan City. Third option is to take a ferry from Manila going to either Zamboanga City or Dipolog City. A flight from Manila going to Zamboanga City and Dipolog City would take approximately an hour and a half. A ferry ride from Manila going to Zamboanga City and Dapitan City would take around two days at most. From Zamboanga City, it would take a bus around eight hours to reach Dapitan City. Meanwhile, it would only take an hour for a bus to reach Dapitan City from Dipolog City.

It is evident at this point that the most convenient route to take is the flight going to Dipolog City then the bus to Dapitan city. Your travel time would then be approximately three hours.

Flights from Manila to Dipolog city would cost around 3000- 3500 php (PAL and Cebu Pacific). PAL offers two flights daily (one in the morning and one in the afternoon) and Cebu Pacific offers two flights as well on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays (one in the morning and one in the afternoon as well). Bus fare from Dipolog City to Dapitan City would cost around 200 php. Buses are available at the terminal every hour or so.

Bukidnon

Bukidnon Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Right in the heart of Mindanao, the highlands of Bukidnon literally explode with breathtaking sceneries from its cool climate to rugged mountains, plateaus, canyons, waterfalls, springs, vast pineapple and rose farms to its extremely diverse flora and fauna and to the colorful tribes of Bukidnon, Higaonon, Talaandig, Manobo, Matigsalug, Tigwahanon and Umayamnon that call this beautiful province home.

Virtually landlocked, Bukidnon is located in North Central Mindanao and is bordered by Misamis Oriental and Cagayan de Oro City to the north, Agusan del Sur and Davao del Norte to east, Lanao del Sur to the west and North Cotabato, Davao del Sur and Davao City to the south. Malaybalay City, the capital, is about 91 kilometers away by road from Cagayan de Oro City. By area, Bukidnon is the 4th largest province in the Philippines and virtually makes up 59% of the entire region of Northern Mindanao. Before the Spaniards came to colonize the Philippines, Visayan migrants settled in neighboring Misamis, thus driving the original inhabitants of the region further inland towards the mountains and these people were eventually called ‘Bukidnon(s)’ which means ‘people of the mountains’, a term derived from the Cebuano language – from which the province got its name. Bukidnon used to be part of the Misamis Province and then Agusan afterwards, Bukidnon became a province on its own in 1917.

Benedictine Monastery of Transfiguration, Malaybalay Bukidnon
Photo by MalNino

Called as one of the traditionalistic ethnic groups in the Philippine south, the Bukidnons are composed of seven different tribes which are indigenous to the province: Talaandig, Higaonon, Bukidnon, Umayamnon, Matigsalug, Manobo and Tigwahanon. The names of the tribes were derived from the areas where they lived (i.e. Tigwahanuns – refers to the people who live along the banks of the Tigwa River). The tribes still practice a lot of their ancient rituals and practices which are enforced by their own Datus (Chieftains) who stand as the political and spiritual rulers of each tribe. Being rich in aesthetic heritage, Bukidnon is rich in oral folk literature such as the Olaging (an epic about the cultural hero Agyu), Bayok-bayok (verses), Limbay (lyric poems), Antoka (riddles), Idangdang (ballads), Nanangon (folktales), Sala (love songs), Basahan (proverbs), Tutalanun (stories of origins of names of places and things), Dasang (debate in verses during settling of the bride price) and the Kaliga-on which are ceremonial songs sung during the Kaliga rituals (the pamamayok which is sung by men, and the tabok which is sung by women while dancing the dugso.)

Rural life at San Isidro Damulog, Bukidnon
Photo by Lloyd Jim

One can visit some of these ancestral territories like the Talaandigs in Barangay Sonco in Lantapan town where an entire community of people are actively working to revive and preserve the ancient ways of the tribe. The customary law is enforced in this area. There is a school in the territory where tribe elders teach their young how to learn and appreciate their traditional embroidery, music, literature, arts, and dance.

For fans of weaving, Bukidnon never fails to impress as traditionally, visual arts are expressed usually in weaving along with crafts, beadworks, and embroidery, patchwork and earth paintings. You may look for the three different kinds of weave- Tinilogas, Tigdaruwa, and Tigtatulo. Bukidnon clothing is usually identifiable by its use of geometric shapes (Binitu-on, Binabangon, and Kinabuka) with strong splashes of black, red, white and blue which is also present with the traditional headdress called ‘panika’. For Bukidnon embroidery, look for the pinamulaan which is made through a process called the panulam.

From mid-February up to March 10 of every year, an ethnic cultural festival is held in Malaybalay City to celebrate the gathering of culture and tradition of the seven tribes during the Kaamulan Festival. The festival derives its name from the Binukid word “amul” which means ‘to gather’. Started in 1974, Kaamulan serves as a gathering of sorts like a datuship ritual, a wedding, a thanksgiving, a peace pact or all of these combined.

Kaamulan Festival
Photo by cliffwinston

Being a multicultural society, Bukidnon also hosts American, Chinese, Indonesian, Koreans and British residents who are engaged in business, trade, research, study, tourism and mission work.
Aside from colorful cultures and traditions of the province, Bukidnon also boasts gorgeous natural sites and probably its most prominent natural landmark is the Mt. Kitanglad Range Natural Park located in North Central Bukidnon, with 31,297 hectares of lush mountain peaks including the peaks which include Mt. Dulang-dulang that can be reached via three trail routes through the towns of Kaatuan, Lantapan, Sumilao, Impasug-ong, Bol-ugan, Lupiagan, Intavas, and La Fortuna. Mt. Kitanglad towers to about 9,511 feet (2,889 meters), and is the fourth tallest peak in the Philippines. Mount Kitanglad is home to virgin forests and has now been declared as a National Park and a Protected Area by the Philippine government. Other peaks that are worth seeing is the Musuan Peak in Dologon, Maramag which has an elevation of 646 meters offers a good early morning climb, Mt. Capistrano in Malaybalay which was used as an evacuation area during World War 2, Mount Pulog in Manolo Fortich which offers great views of the rose farms and the gorgeous Pigsuguan Hills in Siloo, Malitbog. The canyons of Saray (Sta. Ines, Malitbog) and Mangima (Manolo Fortich) also offer spectacular natural views. Mangima Canyon usually is the site for off-road competitions and usually considered as the equivalent of Baguio City’s Kennon Road. Check out the Abyawan Ridge to get a view of the Tagoloan River which snakes through the beautiful canyons through the barrios of Lingi-on, Sto Niño and Dalirig in Manolo Fortich.

Kaamulan Festival
Photo by cliffwinston

Along the boundary of Manolo Fortich and Sumilao are the Palapao Hills (836 feet) which were said to be used as burial grounds during early 19th century with coffins and artifacts tucked in their caves, rock shelters and limestone grounds with designs that were traced back to the Metal Age.

Proving that Bukidnon is one big thrill destination, just recently opened is Asia’s longest Dual Cable Zipline at the Dahilayan Adventure Park in Manolo Fortich with dual carrying cables each stretching 840 meters from point to point with an elevation drop of 100 meters and an estimated speed of 60-100 kilometers per hour!

Being gifted with such amazing natural wonders, Bukidnon, despite being landlocked, is also home to many notable bodies of water like the Napalit Lake- a 36-hectare lake by the foot of the Kalatungan Mountains in Pigtauranan, Pangantucan. The lake is 80 feet deep with about 24 islets of different sizes floating parallel to the direction of the wind. The largest of these islets is at least 50 feet wide. The serene Lake Apo in Valencia City is lined with lush vegetation hugged by the hills and mountains around it. Apo, a 24 hectare lake with depths ranging from 17-26 meters, is a rift lake of circular shape atop a mountain floor and said to be one of the cleanest in the entire Northern Mindanao. Other lakes that abound in the provinces include the Pinamaloy Lake in Don Carlos (50 hectares, guitar-shaped), and the Malagana Lake in Malitbog which is home to wild ducks and teems with fish. Aside from lakes, Bukidnon is also known for its rivers, the most famous is the Pulangui River (Dologon, Maramag) and also the rivers of Siloo (Malitbog) and the Bubonawan River- the latter with a waterfall measuring 100 meters, Check out Monte Shanna Lake and the Mabuhay Lakes and the Badiangon, Tingag, and Bindol Falls of Malitbog too.

Alalum Falls
Photo by kleomarlo

Kalilangan has many springs and lakes like the Panamsamon Spring, Tausa and Panta Lakes, Ulayan Spring, the sulfuric Salty Water Lake, Ticog Lake, and the Tinambacan Spring. In Damulog, numerous springs can be found such as the Malingling, Kapiling, Lagasan, Pangantapan Springs as well as the 60 feet high Minlaya Falls. The Kulaman Falls and Mawi-e River which are regarded as some of the cleanest in the region can be found in the town of San Fernando.

In Malaybalay City (Sitio Lalawan, Barangay Dalwangan), there is a bird watching tower which gives rare glimpses to a Philippine symbol- the rare and endangered Philippine Eagle (one of the world’s biggest raptors) as well as other birds like the giant scops, Philippine hanging parakeets, owls, fly catchers, brahmine kies and many jungle fowls from Mt. Kitanglad ranges.

The Philippine Eagle (Pithecophaga jefferyi) is a giant forest raptor endemic to the Philippines. It is considered one of the largest and most powerful eagles in the world. Unfortunately, it is also one of the world’s rarest and certainly among its most critical endangered vertebrate species.
Photo by MalNino

Bukidnon is every spelunkers paradise because for the astounding number of caves worth exploring starting off with the Paiyak Cave in the town of Sumilao. This cave is located by the southern wall of the Palao-pao Mountains with many stalactite and stalagmite formations which developed for over a million years! Still in Sumilao is the Basag Cave, with its 8 waterfalls and a good number of stalactites and stalagmites, and it is still hardly explored. Other caves in Sumilao are the Sumalsag Cave (currently holding the longest cave title in Northern Mindanao with 1859 meters) and the Lagundang Cave (with a 225-foot entrance and affectionately referred to locally as their own mini-Niagara Falls). Crabs and fish can be found in the ponds inside the Lagundang Cave. The Salawaw Cave in Valencia City, a must for adventure seekers, meanwhile has calcite formations and a cave pool which is part an extensive cave stream and is home to large crickets measuring 10 centimeters long and arthropods as well as ophidians – a more scientific and less threatening term for spiders and snakes, respectively. Another cave of note in Valencia City would be the Kasanayan Cave which has a river running inside it also contains stalactites, 400 meters deep from the opening. Other caves in the province that may warrant a spelunker’s attention would be the Blue Water, Kabyaw, Sagongsong Caves and the White Mountains and Caves and Rock Walls (Quezon), Quarry Cave (Kitaotao), Liroan Cave (Malitbog), Bogsok Cave (Libona). Borantawan Cave (Talakag), Minsulahog Cave (Baungon), Spiring, Kisolop and the Linking Caves (Kibawe).

The town of Baungon meanwhile is home to two of the world’s rarest flowers- the Rafflesia and the Amorphophallus Paeoniifolius. Species of rafflesia are found all over Southeast Asia including the many islands of the Philippines. Malaysians may be very familiar with this flower as this is considered as Sabah’s state flower as well as the state flower of Indonesia and Surat Thani Province of Thailand. The rafflesia, now found in Baungon (called as “Kolon Busaw” by locals) was said to be extinct as its last sighting was on the Philippines’ tallest mountain- Mount Apo back in 1881.
With all these spectacular eco-tourism sites, Bukidnon also plays host to monasteries. The most famous of these is the Monastery of Transfiguration in Malaybalay City which sits on top of a hill in Barangay San Jose. The monastery which is run by Benedictine monks grabs any architecture enthusiast for its pyramid design- courtesy of the Philippines’ National Artist for Architecture Leandro Locsin, the same architect who designed the modernist buildings of the Cultural Center of the Philippines in Pasay City in the National Capital Region. The monastery is also famous for its own brand of coffee “Monk’s Blend” which is grown right there. Another monastery worth mentioning is the Carmelite Sisters’ Monastery also in Malaybalay, which is known for its flower gardens and as a place for rest and retreat.

A visit to Bukidnon would never be complete without a trip to the Del Monte Pineapple Plantation in Manolo Fortich, said to be one of the biggest pineapple plantations in the world. The plantation was incorporated in 1926 and is one of the oldest and largest agro-industrial firms in the country. The majority of the plantations’ products are exported all over world – Europe, Middle East, USA and other parts of Asia.

Why Not Go

Being landlocked, Bukidnon is devoid of any beaches which are characteristically common to a lot of Philippine destinations. Traveling between towns and even within towns in Bukidnon is a major challenge and we found that out the moment we stepped out of the bus into the pouring rain in Manolo Fortich, which looked like a very sleepy town even on a Monday.

Why Go

Bukidnon largely goes unmentioned in most mainstream travel guides because, primarily, the province is all bundled together with the stigma that the mere mention of the word Mindanao carries. This makes the province virtually devoid of tourists or travelers that most other popular destinations in the Philippines usually get. However, this makes Bukidnon even more appealing to the intrepid traveler if one wants to get off the main tourist circuits and take in a whole new experience – adventure, ancient cultures and nature- probably one of the many underrated (and virtually unheard of) travel destinations in the Philippines, not only for foreign travelers but also for a majority of Filipinos.

Best Time to Visit

The province is mostly away from the Philippines typhoon alley and is largely spared from such. Year-round, the province enjoys mostly great weather. Rains do come during the latter part of the year however. The climate is cool due to its altitude and the temperatures are usually compared to those of Baguio City.

Where to Stay

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Since we did Bukidnon only for a day trip, we did not have the chance to stay in any of the hotels, resorts or guesthouses in the province, however, the Bukidnon government site has a listing of places to stay while there. Check this link of places to stay (http://www.bukidnon.gov.ph/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=273&Itemid=358)

Where & What to Eat

Probably one of the things we will never forget while we were in Bukidnon was how succulent and tender the steaks were at the Del Monte Golf Club House. For just over PhP300 we had a set lunch of steak with gravy, fresh garden salad, soup, mashed potato, fresh fruit cocktails and glass of real, honest-to-goodness pineapple juice! From the bus stop at Manolo Fortich, find your way to a queue of multi-cabs and ask to be dropped off at the Kawayanon where you have to walk up a sloping road about a hundred meters away from the main road and then you will find the club house. Tell the guards nicely that you want to have lunch at their club house.

Pineapples of Bukidnon
Photo by christinaestrada

Aside from steaks, Bukidnon is also known for the freshest fruits and vegetables, so never forget to try some of Bukidnon’s produce straight from the many farms and ranches in the province.

A lovely steak meal in Manolo Fortich
Photo by Ryan Buaron

Nightlife

Bukidnon is not known for an exciting nightlife even compared to the neighboring city of Cagayan de Oro. The best place to spend the night in Bukidnon would be staying in mountain retreats, and private farms. There are many resorts as well around the province where one can rest during your stay in the province.

My to do List

1. Try Asia’s longest Zipline at Dahilayan Adventure Park.**
2. Have a hearty steak lunch at the Del Monte Golf Club House in Manolo Fortich.*
3. Get a bag of ‘Monk’s Blend’ at the Monastery of Transfiguration.*
4. Go waterfall/spring/lake hopping!
5. Trek and see two of the world’s rarest flowers in Baungon.*
6. Go spelunking in Sumilao.
7. Witness the Kaamulan Festival **
8. Visit the Talaandig Ancestral Territory. *
9. Take home some traditional weavings for souvenirs.**
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

Contrary to what most travel advisories say about Mindanao, Bukidnon is a very safe place for travelers (local or foreign). Communist rebels are said to operate in the very remote parts of the province, make sure to check with the local tourism office or your travel operator first before venturing out to hike. For us, the major annoyance was the unreliability of the transportation even within towns like we experienced in Manolo Fortich.

Having said that, terrorism is a real threat all over the world (other countries like Thailand, Indonesia, Spain and the US itself have been victimized by much worse terrorist attacks) and not just Mindanao. The fact that the world has been brainwashed that Mindanao is a warzone is unfair and untrue.

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Make sure you wear a working life-vest when swimming in bodies of water!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock.
5. Be aware of your surroundings, report suspicious looking packages or individuals.

Getting There

One can take a ferry to Cagayan de Oro and take a bus or drive all the way to Bukidnon. While in Cagayan de Oro, ask to be taken to the Agora Bus Terminal servicing buses for Bukidnon. Travel time from Cagayan de Oro to the closest Bukidnon town of Manolo Fortich is about 1 hour and 1.5 hours to Malaybalay (about 104 kilometers). The main modes of transport in and around Bukidnon are buses and multicabs. Malaybalay is also accessible from Davao City via Salawagan, Quezon, Bukidnon with an estimated travel time of 3.5 hours (208 kilometers). The nearest airport for Bukidnon would be the Lumbia airport in Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental where most Philippine airlines fly. However, a newer airport is set to open in 2012 in Laguindingan also in Misamis Oriental and would be accepting international flights.

Zamboanga City

Zamboanga City Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• To Do List
• Getting There

Asia’s Latin city. Zamboanga city’s moniker is a tribute to its very Hispanic past. From its airport to its language, one can find a tinge of the Philippines’ unique past.

Seven hundred kilometers away from Manila, Zamboanga city sits on the southernmost part of the Zamboanga peninsula. It is so far away that my friends from Manila would always comment that it’s like going to a different country already. In fact Zamboanga city is closer to Malaysia and Indonesia than it is to Manila. The distance however should not discourage would-be travelers to Zamboanga city. The long flight or ferry ride is definitely worth every penny once you get to Zamboanga Hermosa.

To the older generations, Zamboanga city brings into mind the tree house in Pasonanca park (a natural park dubbed as the little Baguio of Zamboanga city because of its altitude and varying flora), the pink sand beach of Santa Cruz Island (one of only a few in the world), the sumptuous yet very affordable sea foods, Chabacano (which is the only Spanish Creole in Asia) and the mestizas. To the young ones though, Zamboanga city only brings terrorism into mind.

But while the mestizas are now only a part of the Alta Sociedad (since most of them have already migrated to different parts of the country and the world) and the Pasonanca Park is not as quaint and romantic as it used to be, Zamboanga city definitely still has a lot to offer. Named as Asia’s Latin city, one can definitely find traces of our colonial history in this city. From its airport, cuisine, edifices, customs, to its language, the extranjero would definitely feel as if he has traveled to the past.

The gateway to Asia’s Latin city is the Zamboanga international airport. This structure, although built for its obvious purpose has become a favorite among architecture enthusiasts. The unique design that the airport employs gives you a window to this city’s Islamic heritage.

ZAM, designed by a muslim architect
Photo by christinaestrada

In the city center, one can find more architectural wonders. The city center is reachable by a tricycle or a jeepney (NO TAXIS). A tricycle ride would cost anywhere from 30 pesos to 50 pesos depending where you came from. A good thing to remember is that all jeepneys in Zamboanga city go to the city center and fare costs anywhere from 7 pesos to 10 pesos. The Zamboanga city hall is the heart of the city center. Zamboanga’s city hall is unlike any ordinary city hall. It is an edifice constructed by the Americans during the early 1900s. The building’s turn of the century architecture is one that is generally favored by the American colonial governments for its tropical colonies. Just besides the city hall is the Plaza Pershing which has a hanging garden on its entrance. It is one of the earliest structures made of cement in Mindanao. The stretch of pavement from the city hall going to the Fort Pilar shrine is dotted with old houses and government offices resembling Calle Crisologo in Vigan. Founded in 1635, the Fort Pilar shrine was a Spanish garrison. Inside its walls is a museum which houses numerous paintings, ethnic costumes, marine life exhibits, indigenous tribes’ memorabilia, and some artifacts from a sunken galleon.

Inside the walls of the Fort Pilar
Photo by lutykuh

Archaic lamp posts and edifices along the stretch of road from the city hall going to the Fort Pilar shrine
Photo by Jerome Herrera

The unique city hall of Zamboanga city, adorned by thousands of lights during the Christmas season
Photo by lutykuh

Just a stone’s throw away from the shrine is the newly opened Paseo del Mar. The Paseo Del Mar resembles the bay walk along Manila bay offering locals a respite from the demands of everyday life. This spot is frequented by Zamboangueños at night because the sun can be a bit harsh in the mornings. I would suggest that you visit the Paseo del Mar on mid afternoons so that you can appreciate the vistas of nearby islands such as Basilan and Santa Cruz. Not to be missed as well is the famous Zamboanga sunset which can rival that of Manila Bay’s. As the park is still a bit new (it was opened during the third quarter of 2009), it may get crowded especially during weekends.

The famous Zamboanga sunset
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Still in the city center is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Immaculate Conception (referred to as ‘the cathedral’ by locals). Outside, the occasional tourist would think that it is a hotel or a mall because of its size and architecture. This common misconception arises from the fact that this cathedral is one of the most modern in Mindanao. The cathedral was built in a form of a crucifix and its façade was shaped after a candle.

A full view of the cathedral
Photo by Jerome Herrera

After all that sightseeing you might want to head to Pasonanca Park. Adorned with trees, flowers, shrubs, orchids, ferns, and a river, this park is truly unique. In the middle of it all is a tree house which was so famous in the 60s and 70s that when you mention the word tree house, Zamboanga city comes into mind immediately. Today though the quaint and cosy feel that the park used to have is gone. The small park has now been transformed to a huge park complex with three natural swimming pools (its water comes from the mountains), a flower garden, an aviary, and a butterfly farm. The surrounding area is known for its great dining and entertainment. The park, even transformed into something very modern and contemporary is still worth checking out though. Allot a full day in Pasonanca Park as it is a huge place. You might also want to pack food because there are not a lot of food stalls inside. The park is around 5 kilometres from the city proper. Tricycle fare would generally cost around 30 to 40 pesos and a jeepney ride would generally be at 7 pesos.

The cozy tree house in the Pasonanca Park
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Twenty five minutes away from the city center is the virgin Santa Cruz Islands, probably the biggest chance of Zamboanga city to tap into the mainstream tourism industry. Developing it however has been costly and a logistical nightmare as it is off the Zamboanga peninsula. The greater Santa Cruz Island boats of a pink sand beach and a sand bar. Yes you heard it right, pink sand. While the smaller Santa Cruz Island is a white sand beach which is a great diving spot. Do not expect hotels, restaurants, and resorts in this place though, the islands are practically deserted. The only way to get there is by using a boat which would cost 100 pesos (round trip). Pick up and drop off point is the Lantaka hotel.

There are numerous beach resorts located in mainland Zamboanga city though as the city‘s borders are virtually shorelines. I however would not recommend them because most are rocky and too commercial.

A typical rocky beach on mainland Zamboanga city
Photo by lutykuh3rd

The RT Lim Boulevard, which is a major thoroughfare as well as a beach
Photo by lutykuh3rd

There is a place in Zamboanga called ‘barter’ because there used to be a lot of barter activity in this area. The system was started by the great Ferdinand Marcos in a bid to appease the Moro rebels. Tax free products were exchanged between Malaysia and the Philippines. In the past, one can find Malaysian made products such as tea, coffee, candies, and malongs at rock bottom prices at the barter. Over time though (as Marcos was ousted), the barter system was ended. Today though, one can still find tax free Malaysian and Indonesian made products at cheap prices. Apparently, the second generation traders still continued the practice of selling products from Malaysia albeit no Philippine made products are ever sold in Malaysia as would have been the case in a barter system. As this place has been a frequent stop among tourists, you can also buy Zamboanga t-shirts and pearls from the barter. Don’t forget that this place is like a tiangge, so remember to haggle, haggle, and haggle!

Another great place to shop is the Yakan weaving center. This village is the home of the Yakan people; an ethnic tribe with special skills in weaving intricately designed traditional cloths on looms. These cloths are usually made into coasters, table covers, wall displays, bags, and purses. The yakan weaving center is about seven kilometers away from the city center and can usually be reached using a tricycle (40 pesos from the city center) or a jeepney (10 pesos from the city center).Note that these cloths are hand-woven, so they are a bit pricey.

An old Yakan woman displaying her wares
Photo by shawi

Why Not Go

If you are an outdoor person, you might not enjoy Zamboanga city that much. We don’t offer spelunking, mountain climbing, and other outdoor activities. If you are friends traveling, you might find the city a bit boring. The things that Zamboanga can offer (such as shopping, dining, and sightseeing) are more apt for a family traveling.

Regarding peace and order, the city is relatively safe and is not as unsafe as the media portrays it to be. To be totally safe though, I recommend that you stay within the city center. The downtown area is pretty well guarded not only by the police but by the military. So don’t panic when you see military men carrying big guns in the city streets, it’s not a coup d’état.

Just be sure to exercise proper caution as you would when traveling to a foreign city and you should be fine.

Why Go

For history buffs who want to relive the Philippines’ past, Zamboanga city is paradise. Not only would you get to see Hispanic manifestations in the architecture, but you get to experience it through its unique language, Chabacano. Extranjeros would often comment that hearing natives speak Chabacano makes them feel like they are in Mexico. From the time you get off the plane, stroll in its many parks and plazas, visit its churches, wander along the city streets, and talk to the locals, you would agree that it is truly Asia’s Latin city.

Best Time to Visit

Unlike most of the Philippines which is typhoon prone, the Zamboanga peninsula is typhoon free. Weather should not be factor when planning your trip to this place. The best time to go is during the Zamboanga Hermosa festival. This is the time of year when Zamboanga city is very vibrant and colorful. The festival features pageants, parades, street dances, concerts, a boodle fight (highlighting the city’s brand as the sardines capital of the Philippines), a Chabacano song festival, a regatta (wherein Zamboanga’s traditional outrigger called the Vinta are raced by locals), trade fairs (featuring traveling merchants from different cities in the country) and other fun activities. Just remember that public places are very crowded during the festival because people with relatives in Zamboanga city often choose to reunite with their relatives during this time. The Zamboanga Hermosa festival generally runs from October 1 to Oct 12. It culminates in a solemn activity called the Fiesta Pilar wherein Zamboangueños visit the Fort Pilar shrine to pray.

Where to Stay

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There are numerous hotels within the city center. One of the best that I always recommend is the Lantaka by the sea hotel. Aside from enjoying rooms with a majestic view of the ocean, you also get to be within walking distance from the fort pilar shrine, the city hall, and the main downtown area. This vintage hotel offers great facilities such as an al fresco restaurant and a large swimming pool set amidst coconut trees; both overlooking the waters between Zamboanga city and Basilan.

Less than a kilometer away from the airport is the Garden Orchid hotel. This airport hotel is perfect for businessmen. Equipped with a swimming pool, a restaurant, a garden, a lobby bar with live entertainment, and spa services onsite, it offers first rate services at very affordable prices.

Where & What to Eat

Zamboanga city is a seafood haven. One of the best restaurants in the city, serving the best food in town is the Alavar’s Seafood House. Alavar’s is best known for its very delicious bagoong and Curacha (a type of crustacean that can be found in Zamboanga’s waters. This place can be a bit pricey though and service is a bit slow. While the food is definitely worth the price, there are other restaurants which offer great tasting seafood as well at lower prices. Mano Mano Na Greenfield Restaurant is another great place to dine in. Mano mano means that you use your hands for something, in this case eating. This restaurant is usually packed with locals at any time of the day, and any day of the week. The main reason for this is that this restaurant offers good food at very affordable prices, not to mention good service. Their menu consists of sea foods and mainstream Filipino dishes. The main structure is like an open veranda which allows cool breeze to enter the restaurant. The building is made from bamboo and the roof from nipa which gives it a very traditional atmosphere. Food is served in trays made from bamboo covered in banana leafs.

Hai San Seafood Market and Restaurant is also a good dining option. This is a Chinese restaurant that offers seafood cooked using Chinese recipes. What makes this restaurant unique is the chance for diners to choose from freshly caught fishes. The chefs would then cook it for you. Hai San’s specialties include Curacha cooked in garlic sauce, latu salad (a type of seaweed), lapu lapu, and lobsters.

Now if you want to dine by the sea, I would recommend the outdoor restaurant in the La Vista del Mar beach resort. This restaurant offers dining along the ocean with gentle breeze blowing by.

As Zamboanga city is home to a significant number of Muslims, you can also find cuisine here that was created by Muslim tribes such as the Tausugs. One very famous Tausug dish is the Satti. Satti is actually coagulated rice immersed in a reddish sweet and spicy sauce. You eat it either with grilled chicken or Isaw (intestine).

Alavar’s seafood house is located in the village of Tetuan. Mano Mano Na Greenfield Restaurant meanwhile is in the village of Santa Maria. If you wish to visit the outdoor restaurant at the La Vista Del Mar beach resort, you would need to travel 6 kilometers away from the city center. It is located along the west coast highway. The Hai San restaurant can be found on Ledesma Street (near the city center). These are short stretches of road and relatively small villages and finding these places would not be difficult at all. Also, you don’t have to worry about getting lost as all tricycle drivers would know where these places are by heart.

Now, if you want to taste the Satti as well, just go to the city center and you’ll definitely find a small eatery offering this dish.

Making reservations, though prudent is not necessary. If you wish to contact these restaurants however, your front desk or hotel concierge would definitely have their phone numbers.

My to do List

1. Stroll along the city streets, specifically from the Cathedral of Immaculate Conception to the city hall and finally to the Fort Pilar shrine
2. Wade through the crystal clear waters and lie on the pink sand beach of Santa Cruz island
3. Buy some cheap pearl earrings, necklaces, and bracelets
4. Eat great seafood at rock bottom prices
5. Spend a full day at the Pasonanca Park
6. Eat spicy Satti in the morning
7. Buy some imported chocolates from Malaysia and other items at the barter
8. Watch the Yakan people weave using giant looms at the Yakan weaving village and bring home the finish product
9. Try to speak Chabacano with a local
10. Watch the stunning sunset at the Paseo del Mar

Getting There

My preferred mode of transportation to Zamboanga city has always been by a ferry. Just the ferry ride itself can be considered a vacation already. It would be like going on a two day cruise if you’re from Luzon and a one day cruise if you’re from Visayas. What I enjoy most about ferry rides is the chance to see all of the Philippines from a good vantage point. If you ride a super ferry, the ship makes a stopover in metro Cebu which gives you a chance to appreciate the beautiful skyscrapers dotted in front of its mountains and if you ride a Negros navigation, you get to see Bacolod’s and Iloilo’s historic ports. A trip from Luzon to Zamboanga city would usually cost around 1000-1500 pesos and from Visayas to Zamboanga city 500 – 800 pesos. Now if you prefer a quicker ride, take the plane. It shouldn’t take more than an hour and a half. Be prepared to pay around 2500 – 3500 for a plane ticket (from Luzon) though. Both Super ferry and Negros Navigation has voyages to Zamboanga city twice a week (Wednesday and Saturday for Super ferry and Thursday and Sunday for Negros Navigation) while Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines offers morning and afternoon flights to Zamboanga city daily.

Be aware that the seaport is not that organized in Zamboanga city. If you need help with your luggage, approach only those porters with an ID. From the airport or seaport, take the tricycle (again NO TAXIS). A tricycle can fit in approximately four people. Remember to agree on a fare before getting in. Some drivers overcharge simply because you came from the airport or the seaport.

Lanao Del Norte

Lanao Del Norte Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

From its many majestic waterfalls, relaxing coastlines to rugged plateaus and verdant mountains rich in flora and fauna, the province of Lanao del Norte pulsates with electrifying cultural diversity of gentle and proud people – one of the many windows into the soul of the often misunderstood Mindanao.

The word Lanao came from the Maranao word “Ranao” which means a body of water and this instance- the second largest lake in the Philippines (Lake Lanao/Ranaw) which is while located in Lanao del Sur, Lanao del Norte shares a huge affinity through the indigenous people living around the lake which is considered as one of the world’s foremost ancient lakes (An ancient lake is a lake that carried water without any interruptions for more than 1 million years. Aside from Lake Lanao- other lakes that fit this category are Lake Baikal in Siberia, Lake Titicaca in South America, and Lake Tanganyika in East Africa).

Children playing at Dodiongan Falls
Photo by Ace Reston

Before the separation of the province into Lanao del Sur and Lanao del Norte, the area was only known as Lanao. After the division, the northern part became Lanao del Norte and the southern part became part of Lanao del Sur. Unlike what most people would think, Lanao del Norte is actually predominantly Christian with the people a mix of Maranaos and Cebuanos who along with the many other Christians from all parts of the country settled in the area with a marginal number of Higaunons settling in the hinterlands of Iligan.

Through the hundreds of years of attempting to subdue Lanao and the Maranaos, the region south of Iligan remained unconquered despite the establishment of a garrison in the city of Marawi. However, it was on July 4, 1959 that the province was finally divided into two through Republic Act No. 2228 with Iligan City as Lanao del Norte’s capital.

In 1977, however, the late Philippine strongman Ferdinand E. Marcos, under a bill sponsored by then Assemblyman Abdullah D. Dimaporo which transferred the provincial capital from Iligan City to the municipality of Tubod which still currently stands as the provincial capital.

While the province, along with the rest of Mindanao, grapples with image issues associated with terrorism – though unfairly, has largely overshadowed the fact that with the rest of the region, Lanao del Norte has so much to offer to the intrepid traveler.

Maria Cristina Falls
Photo by Ace Reston

Starting off with Iligan City, a city which melds industrial muscle and roaring and gorgeous waterfalls of which Maria Cristina is the most famous. The city alone has over 20 waterfalls – no wonder, it is nicknamed the City of Majestic Waterfalls. Maria Cristina is 320 feet high and spills 130 cubic meters per second of water, its raging magnificence is harnessed to provide electricity (although we have heard locals grumble of the apparent frequent outages in the province- we have not experienced such while we were there). This beautiful waterfall is located at the borders of Barangay Maria Cristina, Ditucalan and Buru-un about 9.3 kilometers away from the city. The waterfall is located inside a property of the power plant and one has to sign one’s name before being let in at the viewing area. Near Maria Cristina is the ancestral house of Philippine President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo who spent part of her childhood in the now National Historical Institute declared Heritage House – The Macapagal -Macaraeg Ancestral House. The house is a modest two-story affair; with fairly sized rooms with pictures of the President present everywhere as well as a painting of her in a very sultry green dress – cleavage and all. Of course, some in our group tried hard to stifle a snicker especially when Philippine media was all agog about the President’s breast implants during our visit.

Tinago Falls
Photo by Ace Reston

Aside from Maria Cristina, another Lanao del Norte pride is the Tinago Falls, which is accessible through a 300-step staircase that is located in the upper part of Barangay Buru-un. The waterfalls feature a curtain-like cascade which falls into a basin-like pool of icy-cold water. Tinago Falls (elevation- 420 feet), like what it names say (Tinago is hidden in local dialect), is literally hidden in a deep ravine about 13.8 kilometers away from Iligan City proper. Access is through the Iligan Tinago Mountain Resort which is managed by the City Tourism Office, and comes with a minimal entrance fee. Other noteworthy waterfalls in Iligan are the Mimbalut Falls (small waterfalls of about 18 feer), Abaga Falls, and Dodiongan Falls. 20 kilometers away from the city proper is a 40 foot high two tiered waterfalls called Hindang Falls and its 6-8 cave clusters with narrow entrances and deep chambers.

Limunsudan Falls
Photo by Ace Reston

Limunsudan Falls which is about 35 kilometers away from the city proper is a breathtaking two-tiered falls with a total height of 870 feet and is close to the boundaries of Iligan, Bukidnon and Lanao del Sur. To reach the waterfalls, a trek of two days is required from Kamalamalahan, Rogongon, Iligan City. While some Iligan locals claim that Limunsudin Falls are the tallest in the Philippines, it is actually the second tallest. The current title is held by Aliwagwag Falls in Davao Oriental which is also Southeast Asia’s 2nd tallest. Aliwagwag Falls is 1,101 feet, but this record is going to be contested soon with many waterfalls still undiscovered deep in the lush tropical jungles of the Philippines. In other parts of Lanao del Norte, one may frolic in the Pasayanon Falls (Matungao), Munai Falls (Munai), and the Fairy Falls (Linamon).

Timoga Spring
Photo by Ace Reston

Aside from the waterfalls, Iligan is also known for Timoga Springs (also in Buru-un) meanwhile is well known for its crystal-clear water which flows into many numerous swimming pools of each of the resorts around the area. Likewise, cold and pure spring water gushes out in Kalilangan in the capital town of Tubod, at the Pili Hot and Cold Springs at the foot of Mount Karkum, at Cabongbongan and Inasagan Spring in Salvador, at the Kawa-kawa Spring in Munai, and the Pioray and Babuyan Lake in Pantao Ragat. Lake Nunungan meanwhile is actually composed of three lakes of varying sizes and teeming with fish bred by local farmers.

Lanao del Norte also has its own version of the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River albeit in a much more modest scale. Check out Lidpa Subterranean River in Munai where the river bores into a hill and then runs underground for about 100 meters. If you want just chill out, and laze around, go for a Balo-I River cruise whose entry point is at the riverbank by Poblacion, Balo-i.
Thoroughly understated and unassuming, the shores of Lanao del Norte are dotted with beaches, while not as popular and as drop dead gorgeous as many other more famous beaches in the country, they compensate with their genteel simplicity. Check out the many beaches in Linamon, a favorite destination for many in Lanao del Norte.

For those who love mountains, there is the 1600 feet high Mount Agad-Agad, the highest in Iligan City and safe for mountain climbing, camping and trekking and is just 5.5 kilometers away. It has a hanging bridge which connects the main road and the jump-off point to the foot of this mountain. In Nunungan, there is also Mount Inayawan with its rainforest resplendent with rich biodiversity and cultural rhythms set by the Maranao settlers in the area.

Festivals are a way of life in the Philippines, and Lanao del Norte is very much like any other Philippine province. During the Sagayan Festival, a Maranao dance is performed during the Araw ng Lanao del Norte Celebration (Lanao del Norte Day). Sagayan portrays a war dance among the Maranaos complemented by women in very colorful costumes gracefully doing the Kasiduratan, a pronounced movement of their arms. Hudyaka Festival is a thanksgiving celebration in the towns of Bacolod (every January 18) and Linamon (every January 23). There is also the Saguingan Festival (October 17) in Tubod, the Guini-akan Festival (January 21) in Baroy, Niyogan Festival (May 15) in Magsaysay, Alimango Festival in Lala, and the Coconut Festival (January 23) in Linamon.

During Iligan’s city fiesta, the Diyandi (a ritual dance) is performed during the Feast of Michael the Archangel, the city’s patron saint where a dance simulating the battle between Saint Michael and his enemies (Yawa-yawa, literally Devil-devil).

Why Not Go

If one is on the lookout for drop-dead gorgeous white sandy beaches or megacity living, Lanao del Norte would be a disappointment. Simplicity is the key in these areas which makes Lanao del Norte even more charming.

Why Go

Getting off the beaten track is the primary reason to visit Lanao del Norte, its charming and friendly people as well as its gorgeous waterfalls that are rarely seen and experienced by a lot of tourists. By that alone, it is so easy to fall in love with this province.

Best Time to Visit

The province is mostly away from the Philippines typhoon alley and is largely spared from such. Year-round, the province enjoys mostly great weather.

Where to Stay

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Most of the hotels are located in Iligan City, which makes a better base for any travels around the province. For more information, please contact the City Tourism Office at the Iligan City Website.

Where & What to Eat

We probably had the creamiest, the freshest and the best tasting Durian Shake EVER at Iliganon (Quezon Avenue Ext) and any visitor in Lanao del Norte needs to try it as it is a sacrilege to miss it for anything. The Banoffee Pie of Aruma (Preface Building, De Leon Corner Burgos St.,Iligan City Tel. (063)221-7913) is also a must for those who love a sweet ending to any meal.

Aside from these, the crabs and shrimps of the municipalities along the Panguil Bay are another Lanao del Norte pride. However, any Lanao del Norte meal is always best when cooked and served personally by your host family! Otherwise, one can find lechon and barbecue stands everywhere. For something to take with you home (also known as Pasalubong) – do not forget to grab a bag of Cheding’s peanuts – a trademark Iligan takeaway.

Nightlife

Aruma
Photo by Dave Ryan

Lanao del Norte nightlife are dictated by the movers and shakers of Iligan City. It was our first time to go clubbing in Mindanao and we had such a rocking great time with the super-friendly locals. Having started a dinner off with the scions of Lanao’s political families – Arnie Quibranza-Mejia, we had a heavenly Banoffee Pie matched with equally yummy brewed coffee at Aruma, one of Iligan’s sweetest spots, and probably looks more at home in Makati than in Iligan with its whitewashed walls and white furniture, and warm, carefully orchestrated lighting. Aruma’s probably one of the classiest hang-outs in Lanao del Norte. For sure, owners Pempee and Spanky Fetalvero did a great job with the café and its menu. The problem though was the location- this pretty café is an oasis on its own as it sits right in the middle of an area with loud karaoke machines and a bar with an obvious identity crisis – playing heavy metal music in the midst of out-of –control techno lights.

After further rounds eating our way through Lanao del Norte, we found our way to Yom’s, a very casual open-air club in Iligan (dressed down or dressed to the nines are equally accepted). The prices are reasonable and the ambiance is pretty friendly. We had a great time chilling out and tripping the light fantastic with our new Iliganon friends. Making friends here is just too easy.

A San Miguel Beer Can in front of Iligan City Hall
Photo by Dave Ryan

For a more sedate night out, one can drop by the City Hall’s lookout point and watch and just gaze into the bright lights of Iligan, or just hang out with friends.

My to do List

1. Go waterfall hopping.**
2. Try the creamy and luscious Durian Shake at Iliganon.*
3. Go on a river cruise in Balo-i.
4. Laze on the beaches of Linamon.
5. Dance the night away in Iligan.*
6. Go trekking at Mount Agad-agad.
7. Catch up with the locals at Aruma. *
8. Visit the Macapagal-Macaraeg Ancestral House. *
9. Soak in one of the pools of Timoga Springs.**
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

A very sexy Philippine President. A painting done in 1983 now hangs at the Macapagal-Macaraeg Ancestral House
Photo by Dave Ryan

Stay Away From

Contrary to what most travel advisories say about Mindanao, Lanao del Norte is a relatively safe place for travelers (local or foreign). However, there are some no-go areas in the province and travels between towns are discouraged at night. The town of Kauswagan was the site of skirmishes between the Philippine soldiers and the separatist group Moro Islamic Liberation Front in March 2000. In July 2009, a bomb went off near the pier in Sabayle Street wounding 7 including two soldiers and twin blasts occurred on April 2009 at the bridge by Maria Cristina. That bridge has been fixed when we went to the waterfalls. The aforementioned blasts were attributed to the rogue elements of MILF although locals usually say that these blasts were actually perpetrated by common criminals out to extort money.

Having said that, terrorism is a real threat all over the world (other countries like Thailand, Indonesia, Spain and the US itself have been victimized by much worse terrorist attacks) and not just Mindanao. The fact that the world has been brainwashed that Mindanao is a warzone is unfair and untrue. We felt very safe in Lanao del Norte.

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Learn to spot rip tides and make sure you wear a working life-vest!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock.
5. Be aware of your surroundings, report suspicious looking packages or individuals.

Getting There

Superferry, Cebu Ferries, Negros Navigation serves Cebu, Manila and Ozamis routes. Otherwise, one can take a ferry to Cagayan de Oro and take a bus or drive all the way to Lanao del Norte. Rural Transit and Super 5 Transport are the most dominant bus companies in the province. While in Cagayan de Oro, ask to be taken to the Bulua Bus Terminal serving buses for Iligan. Travel time from Cagayan de Oro to Iligan is about 1.5 hours. The main modes of transport in and around Lanao del Norte are jeepneys, taxis, passenger vans and pedicabs. Iligan has its share of horse-drawn carriages called Tartanillas which usually serve the route between Barangays Pala-o and Tambacan.

The nearest airport for Iligan would be the Lumbia airport in Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental where most Philippine airlines fly. However, a newer airport is set to open in 2012 in Laguindingan also in Misamis Oriental and would be accepting international flights.

Misamis Oriental

Misasmis OrientalTravel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Called Mindanao’s nature front, Misamis Oriental is home to fine beaches, fertile mountains and lush forest reserves, interesting dive sites, caves that wait to be explored, and a diverse culture that begs to be experienced.

Misamis Oriental is one of the 5 provinces of Region X, otherwise known as Northern Mindanao with Cagayan de Oro both serving as the capital of the province as well as the regional capital. Misamis got its name from the word “misa”, a Spanish term for the Eucharistic Mass. It was said that during the early days of Christianity in the Philippines, the word “misa” was shouted by converts every time priests traveled around the province. Over time, the Spanish missionaries started called the province as Misamis. As there are two Misamis provinces, the other one is Misamis Occidental (Western Misamis) which has Oroquieta City as its capital. Other stories say that the word “Misamis” came from “Kuyamis”, a variety of sweet coconut which was also the staple food of the earliest known Negrito settlers in the area. The word Kuyamis was corrupted into Misamis when the Spanish conquerors arrived.

A hut overlooking Mapawa Nature Park
Photo by storm-crypt

Aside from Cagayan de Oro, Misamis Oriental has another city, albeit, a smaller one compared to Cagayan de Oro- the city of Gingoog City, a component city which is located in the eastern part of the province.

While adventure tourism in Cagayan de Oro is promoted heavily in the tourism circles, there are other things to see and do in Misamis Oriental. Such as the ancestral houses of Vega Ancestral Home in Balingasag and the Lagbas Ancestral Home in Sugbongcogon. Like in many parts of the Philippines, the province has a lot of beautiful dive sites which are rarely visited by a lot of tourists because of the stigma that the name of Mindanao evokes. This is very undeserving, as the island of Mindanao has a lot of spectacular sights to see, enough to overwhelm any world traveler – and can put other countries in the Asia Pacific region to utter shame. Take the Agutayan Reef in Jasaan, also called the White Island (this is different from the White Island in Camiguin) – it is a little island teeming with a wide expanse of coral reef with a drop-off starting at 50 feet all the way down to 150 feet with heaps of cracks and crevices along the wall. Pelagic fishes such as the barracuda, eagle rays, surgeon fish, tuna, and sharks are often seen here. A shoal of approximately 3 hectares in size with the shallowest depth at 20 feet below the surface defines Constancia Reef. The reef is teeming with colorful tropical fish, pelagic and territorial fish, sponges and sea fans.

View of the town of Bugo, Misamis Oriental where Del Monte cans its world famous pineapples
Photo by Dave Ryan

Sipaka Point is known for its strong current and is only advised for more experienced divers. This natural current feeds the marine ecosystem which resulted in a gorgeous underwater garden where one can find huge sea fans, hard and soft corals, basket sponges, and feather stars which coexist with snappers, stingrays, groupers and numerous colorful fish – which is perfect for underwater photography, The Talisayan shoal meanwhile fronts the town of Talisayan. It takes about 10 minutes from the Mantangale Alibuag Beach Resort. This tiny shoal is covered with a very good coral growth, with heaps of little colorful fish, shells and other plants and animals such as turtles as well as other pelagic fishes. For wreck divers, one must not miss the Sta. Ines wreck at the sandy and steep slope, this old World War Two pontoon wreck starts at depths of 30 feet to about 150 feet. This wreck is now covered with black corals, fan corals, and other marine growth and serves as abode to jacks, sweetlips, red snappers, surgeon fish, bat fish and Lapu-lapu.

In the town of Medina, one can head out to the Medina Springs, a very interesting dive spot also with rich marine life which is located just about 300 yards from the white beach, near the edge of the shallow coral reef. “The Paradise” as it is called, it is about 90 to 110 feet deep with features like a canyon with a lot cracks and holes and a cavern that can be explored with underwater flashlights. “The Aquarium” meanwhile is another place to make that second dive with depth ranging from 20 to 70 feet. In these two spots- you’d be able to spot the underwater springs called alibuag which literally spew out very cold fresh water. The dramatic seascapes meanwhile, at the eastern tip of Gingoog Bay which is part of the town of Magsaysay is Punta Diwata. This divespot meanwhile has a stair step coralline slope with its ledges and walls all beautifully covered with sea fans, sponges, as well other marine outcroppings. Manta rays as well as the usual colorful and interesting Philippine fishes also frequent the area. To wrap up the dive tour of Misamis Oriental, just out front of Mantangale is Manongul reef- aptly named as Manongul which is the word for coral gardens in the local dialect. Manongul is best for snorkeling and long scuba dives where you can spy blue spotted stingrays, lionfish, convict damsels, soft and hard corals, clown fish who all call Manongul home.

Misamis Oriental Sunset
Photo by storm-crypt

Meanwhile, for those who just absolutely love waterfalls, Misamis Oriental never fails to disappoint. See the Libon-lawit Falls 13 kilometers from Gingoog City centre which is composed of three falls actually- Tiklas Falls (120 feet high), Kilubag Falls which serves as its main attraction and the Bangbang Falls (70 feet high). There is also the small Aya-aya Falls in Lugait, the Kanapolan Falls in Naawan, Lubilan Falls also in Naawan, Sinabayan Falls and Mimboaya Falls in Subongcogon, Bakid-bakid Falls of Gingoog City, and the Sagpulon Springs and Falls in Jasaan.

For all its beauty, Misamis Oriental’s main tourist attractions exists in its many national parks with natural limestone formations, ridges, gorges and canyons like the Initao National Park about 51 kilometers west of Cagayan de Oro which also includes a marine ecosystem which is home to various colorful fishes and corals as well as Splitnose bat cave in its two closed caves and one open cave which opens towards the sea. There is also the Lingon-lingon Plateau Park in Balingasag which is excellent for bird watching and mountain climbing and the Sicolon Cave also called Cueva con Agua in Laguindingan (28 kilometers west of Cagayan de Oro); the Magallanes Cave in Jasaan which is still largely unexplored; the Huluga Caves 8 kilometers away from the St. Augustine Church on the east bank of the Cagayan River. This cave was especially important because this cave also serves as a burial site. Xavier University researchers found a female skull dated back around 350 AD by the Scripps Institution of Oceanography in the United States. The Huluga open site was an ancient settlement site in the area and according to unverified reports; a huge part of this archaeological area was destroyed in 2003 by the City Hall and today remains to be neglected and exposed to quarrying.

Another popular nature destination is the Macahambus Cave and Gorge located 14 kilometers southeast of Cagayan de Oro in Lumbia and the newly developed Lasang Secret Adventure Eco-tourist Park, which was developed as a learning center for scientific research and biodiversity and consists of 100-meter boardwalk which takes one deeper into a forest that contains century old giant Talisay Gubat trees which are endemic to the region. Also, another famous landmark in Cagayan de Oro is the Gardens of Malasag Eco-tourism Village located in Sitio Malasag in Cugman about 20 minutes away from the city centre. It has a botanical garden showcasing the different tribal cultures of Mindanao.

Macahambus Adventure Park
Photo by storm-crypt

Further away from the Malasag gardens is the gorgeous and breathtaking Mapawa Nature Park, one of the successful stories of how people, livelihood, environment and tourism work well together. We were taken on a hay ride around the sprawling properties which include heavily forested mountains, with waterfalls and rivers buried in its canopy of lush and verdant foliage. The nature park offers several sports attractions such as ziplines, rappelling down waterfalls, scenic hikes, as well as of course the most famous Cagayan de Oro sport of white water rafting- a highlight for any traveler to Misamis Oriental. (Mapawa Nature Park booking office call-+638822725265 or 09081285454).

For beaches, check out Bubotan Beach in Initao, and the stretch of beige colored sandy beaches off Opol.

Every August 26th, Cagayan de Oro celebrates the Kagay-an Festival which features street-dancing competitions and trade fairs, as well as the Hudayaka Festival which is likened to the Sinulog Festival of Cebu as well as the Kadayawan Festival of Davao City.

Port of Cagayan de Oro
Photo by storm-crypt

Why Not Go

The problem of getting around Misamis Oriental is one of the main drawbacks of traveling around the area. One must hire taxis which set you back a few hundred pesos to head out to its many nature parks. Make sure that you arrange for your transportation when traveling to Misamis Oriental. Buses to and from the different provinces, however, are easy to get and surprisingly reliable. Most major Philippine airlinse fly to Misamis Oriental via the airport in Cagayan de Oro City.

Why Go

Misamis Oriental offers the seasoned traveler the chance to get away from the usual tourist track. With its many nature parks, and dive sites as well as a decidedly multicultural population right in the heart of Northern Mindanao, it is also the most convenient jump-off point to the many attractions that Northern Mindanao has to offer.

Best Time to Visit

Like most parts of Southern Philippines (which means basically Mindanao), Misamis Oriental rarely gets the fierce typhoons that plague the rest of the country during some months of the year. However, it is not spared from monsoon rains which swell the Cagayan River and cause flooding in Cagayan de Oro. Head out to Misamis Oriental during the drier months. During rains, it is not advised to do white water rafting nor waterfall rappelling due to the threat of flashfloods.

Where to Stay

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There are many hotels and resorts all over Misamis Oriental and most of them are concentrated in Cagayan de Oro. However, for its environmental significance, we would recommend staying at the Mapawa Nature Park instead. Surrounded by lush greenery and thoroughly accessible to a lot of eco-tourism activities. Mapawa Nature Park, we reckon is the best place to park your butt in Misamis Oriental.

Where & What to Eat

One thing that we will probably never forget in Misamis Oriental was how delicious the Durian in the province is. Save for the stink, the fruit was different from what we tried in Malaysia and in the supermarkets of Manila. Make sure you grab one whilst you are in Misamis Oriental. We also tried the spicy chicken dish called Halang-halang in Balingoan, which though delicious, we felt shortchanged as the chicken barely had any meat on it. Halang-halang is basically a chicken dish cooked in coconut milk, and chili. The word halang-halang is literally a Visayan word that means “spicy-spicy”. The sauce was yummy though, I hoped I’d be able to try it again and next time with heaps more meat!

Halang-halang
Photo by Dave Ryan

Nightlife

Probably the best nightlife in Misamis Oriental gravitates to Cagayan de Oro City. It is of course more low-key compared to heavyweights in the bigger Philippine cities like Davao, Cebu and Manila. We would prefer to spend our nights in Misamis Oriental chilling out up in the misty mountains around Mapawa Nature Park for that truly nature and adventure feel.

My to do List

1. Rappel down a waterfall in Mapawa Nature Park.*
2. Go check out the Macahambus Nature Park. **
3. Marvel at the century old trees in Lasang and admire the biodiversity of the region.*
4. Dive in Duka Bay.**
5. Chill by the beaches of Opol.
6. Go canopy-walking!
7. White water rafting and ziplining.**
8. Indulge in fresh and delicious Mindanao durians.*
9. Go waterfall hopping.
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

Contrary to what most travel advisories say about Mindanao, Cagayan de Oro is a relatively safe place for travelers (local or foreign). This goes without saying that Cagayan de Oro has been targeted for bomb attacks in the past; the most recent attempt was July of 2009 where two grenades were planted inside a local mall. Security is pretty tight however in Cagayan de Oro and we did not have any troubles going around the province (save for a pesky cab driver in the airport.) Having said that, terrorism is a real threat all over the world (other countries like Thailand, Indonesia, Spain and the US itself have been victimized by much worse terrorist attacks) and not just Mindanao. The fact that the world has been brainwashed that Mindanao is a warzone is unfair and untrue.
1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Learn to spot rip tides and make sure you wear a working life-vest!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock.
5. Be aware of your surroundings, report suspicious looking packages or individuals.

Getting There

By land, sea and air, Misamis Oriental is very accessible. Major airlines such as Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific, Zest Air, Air Philippines fly to the Lumbia Airport in Cagayan de Oro. A new airport however is in the works in Laguindingan which promises to be better, bigger, safer and cleaner than Lumbia. Make sure that you take the taxis outside the airport and not the one inside Lumbia to avoid being scammed. From Lumbia Airport to the Agora Bus Terminal, fare should not exceed PhP150 (at the time of this writing); if in doubt ask a local to make sure you are not getting ripped off. The taxi in the airport wanted to charge us double the amount (apparently he pays a small amount to the airport guard to let him wait for passengers inside the airport). Most taxis in Cagayan de Oro never use the meter, and after arguing with many of them, we decided to give up and just agreed at a contract price for each destination.

Lumbia Airport
Photo by storm-crypt

Several buses travel to and from Cagayan de Oro from almost all major cities in Mindanao. Rural Transit and Bachelor buses are the most popular and we found the most convenient. Via ship, Superferry and Negros Navigation sail to Cagayan de Oro.

Lechon Cebu
Photo by 2rokbotoy

Starting off with one of the most famous and one of my personal favourites, in the Visayas on the island of Cebu you’ll find the super succulent Lechon Cebu. Recently Anthony Bourdain of Travel Channel show No Reservations fame commented on his love of Lechon Cebu, “It can now be said that of all the whole roasted pigs I’ve had all over the world, the slow roasted lechon I had on Cebu was the best.” And I would have to whole heartedly agree with him. Slowly roasted and turned for hours the meat is so succulent and the skin is super crispy. Be warned that the skin is the part favoured by many so be sure you get a piece before it’s all gone.

Heading over from Cebu to the Island of Negros a number of local delicacies await. First of all is the Famous Piaya which can be found at Bongbong’s Pasalubong Center in Bacolod City. It’s made with flakey wheat flour dough and stuffed with muscovado, and is kind of like the ultimate pop-tart. Another favourite which can be found all over the Philippines but originated in Negros is Chicken Inasal. It’s basically chicken marinated in a mix of vinegar, calamansi, garlic and annatto seeds. The chicken is put onto skewers and grilled and the smell that wafts from this delicious grilled chicken dish is amazing.

Ted’s La Paz Batchoy

Still in the Visayas but over in the Island of Panay in the city of Iloilo, make sure you stop by Ted’s La Paz Batchoy. While you can find branches of Ted’s in other locations around the Philippines, but the branch in Iloilo is the original and was started over 60 years ago in the La Paz market, Iloilo by Federico Guillergan, Sr. La Paz Batchoy is a noodle soup made with different variations of ingredients including: pork organs, crushed pork cracklings, shrimp, vegetables, chicken stock, chicken breast, beef loin and round noodles. It’s a really great meal for any time of the day and offers some really unique tastes.

Pastel Bread
Photo by Dave Ryan

Going south to Mindanao you will come across the island of Camiguin. While Camiguin is more famous for its lanzones fruit (which I didn’t like until I tried Camiguin Lanzones which were delicious), I fell in love with their pastel bread. This sweet bread with a gooey candied milk centre will win over any sweet tooth. Even though I do like my sweets, I could only eat a maximum of three in one sitting before my stomach was overwhelmed by the sugar in Pastel bread. They come in a variety of flavours but the original is a must have for any Camiguin visitor. While you can pick a box from the Benoni port or the Cagayan De Oro airport, you can also go right to the source and get a box in Mambajao, Camiguin.

Fresh Durian
Photo by Scott M. Allford

Finally in the province of Lanao Del Norte you can pick up a drink that you’ll never forget. In the city of Iligan you can pick up a delightfully sweet and flavourful Durian Shake from Iliganon. While many people have a hard time getting past the smell of durian (and it really does stink), the fruit itself is really tasty. It also seems that in Mindanao durian tastes better than anywhere else in the Philippines. The Durian shake is so sweet and super thick and Iliganon is a really good place to sit back, relax and enjoy.

Del Monte Golf Club meal with Pineapple Shake
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

For other famous foods in Mindanao you should make a trip into Bukidnon and the Del Monte Pineapple plantation. Here you will find some of the tastiest pineapples on the planet. At the Del Monte Golf Club in Manolo Fortich you can pick up a reasonably priced three course meal with a tasty pineapple shake. Also famous for food in Mindanao is the city of General Santos in the southern province of Sarangani. General Santos is known as the Tuna Capital of the Philippines and every September they have a Tuna Festival with a Tuna Culinary Contest where delicious tuna treats can be tasted by all.

While this is only a small sample of all the different foods you will encounter while travelling around the Philippines, they’re my favourites. I’m sure that on my future travels around these regions, new taste sensations which will truly delight the senses await. But in the end a great thing about the Philippines is that at the end of a long days travel, it’s really good to know that you can sit down to a truly delicious meal which is familiar yet exotic at the same time.

Camiguin

Camiguin Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Rising from the sea just off the coast of Northern Mindanao, is the volcanic island of Camiguin with its lush and formidable mountains, natural springs, sandbars and dramatic ruins that reminds all of the savage beauty of its tumultuous natural history.

Camiguin’s moniker had always been “Island Born of Fire” and the local tour guides on the island could haven’t mastered their tourism manual more as this is what they told me when I asked them what the island is known for. The branding could not have been more appropriate as the island has the most number of volcanoes per square kilometer than any other island in the world – as it is more evident in the fact that there are more volcanoes (7) than towns (5) with more than 20 cinder cones over 1000 meters with the active stratovolcano Mount Hibok-hibok (1,552 metres) as the most prominent. Aside from Hibok-hibok and Vulcan, there is also Mambajao, Ginsiliban, Uhay, Carling, and Tibane as well as the hills of Campana, Minokol, Tres Marias and Piyakong where there are also domes and cones – put them together in a tiny island and you have the most extensively volcanic island in the world.

White Island, Camiguin
Photo by Erick

It was said to be that Camiguin got its name from a native tree called “Kamagong” which thrives by Lake Mainit in the province of Surigao del Norte. With the original inhabitants of the islands being Manobos who migrated from Surigao, it is no wonder that the name of the province was derived from something where the first settlers came from.

The first Spanish settlements were built in 1898 in the area presently called Guinsiliban, which came from an old Kinamiguin word “Guinsilipan”, meaning to look out for pirates from a watchtower as evidenced by an old Spanish watchtower still standing in the area. It wasn’t until 1679 when the first major Spanish settlement was established in Katagman (now called Barangay Bonbon) of Katadman (now known as Catarman). When Mt. Vulcan Daan erupted on May 1, 1871, the town was destroyed and all that remained of the old town were the ruins of the ancient Spanish church, a convent and a bell tower called the Guiob Ruins.

Old Mount Hibok-hibok
Photo by storm-crypt

It was in 1855 when the sleepy town of Mambajao was established. The town which became the busiest port in Northern Mindanao during the early 1900’s, was coined from “Mamahaw”, a Visayan term meaning to start breakfast and “bajao” which meant leftover rice.
It was in 1901 when the Americans took control if the island and the public school system was established in Mambajao in 1903, with the first public school as well as a water system the year after. The presence of well preserved American-era schoolhouses in Camiguin proved the enduring legacy of the Americans in the island up until today. The island was also the site of fierce skirmishes between Philippine forces and guerrilla units against the Japanese Imperial Army which resulted to the liberation of the island during the Battle of Camiguin in 1945. After the Second World War from 1946 until 1958, Camiguin was ruled as a part of the province of Misamis Oriental and eventually 10 years later became a full-fledged province with Mambajao standing in as its capital.

However, whilst Camiguin’s political history moved with the rest of the country, it was nature that basically defined its entire character. A visit to the Philippine Institute of Volcanology and Seismology Hibok-hibok Monitoring Station reveals the turbulent natural history of this tiny island province of only 20 kilometers in length and 15 kilometers in width. Photos of the destruction and loss of life are displayed in the monitoring station, offering a glimpse of the maelstrom of liquid fire that hides underneath the island. For the years between 1948 until 1951, Hibok-hibok slept fitfully with constant rumbles and smoke being spewed which caused little damage and loss of life. The volcano became more violent in 1949 when its eruption killed 79 people from landslides. The worst, however, happened on the morning of December 4, 1951 when Hibok-hibok unleashed its fury of molten lava, poisonous gases that destroyed 19 square kilometers of land and claimed over 3,000 lives. Today one can hire guides from resorts for a trek up Hibok-hibok which can be a steep climb but you may have to check with the local DENR office in Mambajao for a permit.

Near the Guiob ruins in Bonbon is the sunken cemetery – one of Camiguin’s most famous landmarks. The sunken cemetery which used to be a part of the old capital of the province was sunk by the successive eruptions of Mount Vulcan. The eruption of 1871 eventually sunk Cotta Bato and its cemetery under the sea, and the volcanoes fourth recorded eruption in 1948 buried the remnants further by about 20 feet. To remember the cemetery, a large cross was built in 1982 on the solidified lava.

Sunken Cemetery
Photo by paw_con

Because of the volcanic nature of Camiguin, it is no surprise to find a lot of natural springs around the island, the most popular of course is the Esperanza Ardent Hot Spring, 6 kilometers southwest of Mambajao, a hot spring which is heated by the vents of Hibok-hibok swarms with people around night time (different levels purportedly have different temperatures) and the Sto. Niño Cold Spring, 4 kilometers south of central Catarman, which has doctor fish in its cold pools. There is minimal fee for admission. Aside from these two popular springs, there are other springs in Camiguin as well, like the Tangub Hot Spring (12 kilometers west of Mambajao), which is a volcanic hot spring below the sea bed with water temperatures running from cold to lukewarm to hot depending on the tides. Off shore, about 10-20m, there is scuba diving with a gradual drop off. In the town of Mahinog, one can find the Macao Cold Spring and the Bura Soda Water Swimming Pool in the town of Catarman.

For those on the lookout for white sandy beaches, there are two most notable – the beaches and the dive spots of Mantigue Island which is located about 3 kilometers offshore from Mahinog. The island has a 4 hectare forest with white sand beaches and corals as well as a deep drop off for snorkeling and diving. The most famous strips of white sand in Camiguin, however, are the two white sandbars (called White Island) about 2 kilometers offshore from Agoho and Yumbing with the prodigious Hibok-hibok looming as a backdrop. The white sandbar was quite strange to us seeing that just 2 kilometers on the Camiguin island jump off point is a beach made out of volcanic grey-black sand. The sandbars are popular destinations for locals and tourists for their picturesque and graceful arcs in the middle of the sea. We also spied a flock of birds resting on one of the ends of the sandbars. Boats to and from and White Island are about PhP400-PhP500. Demand a working life vest as the waters between the mainland and the White Island can be very rough. There is no shade on the White Island, so bring heaps of sun protection as well. Camping overnight is not allowed because of the danger of waves. The island used to have structures; however, according to our guide- Philippine President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo who went to Camiguin for a surprise visit, had them dismantled as the threats of uncollected trash were imminent. Now the White Island is being carefully managed by the local government to preserve its beauty. A minimal entrance fee is also required.

Katibawasan Falls
Photo by storm-crypt

Probably one of the most graceful looking waterfalls that we have ever seen – Katibawasan Falls (about 5 kilometers southeast of Mambajao) is a clear stream of water dropping 70 meters down into a rock pool with gorgeous tropical foliage framing this beautiful waterfall. One can rappel down this waterfall as well and take a plunge in its cold water afterwards. There is a minimal fee required and picnic tables are available in the area. Another waterfall worth your trip would be Tuasan Falls, 6 kilometers east of Catarman that can be accessed by a scenic hike.

Why Not Go

Camiguin’s main drawback is the relatively high cost within the island. Accommodations and transportation costs are the main problem. Whilst costs can be contained, so far, Camiguin has been one of the most expensive destinations we’ve ever visited.

Why Go

A sunken cemetery which can probably never be seen anywhere in the world? Gorgeous white sand bars with a towering volcano as a backdrop? Or the graceful Katiwabasan Falls? These are some of the things that convinced us to pack our bags and head out to Camiguin. The sheer lush scenery and the laidback island vibe of Camiguin is a top drawer.

Best Time to Visit

Camiguin is largely spared from typhoons that continually plague the northern part of the Philippines during the wet season. With mostly great year-round weather, probably the best time to visit Camiguin, like any Camiguin local would tell, you is during their yearly Lanzones Festival usually around the third week of October. If you want to skip the rush of tourists however, any day of the year is perfect to visit (it goes without saying that in the Easter Season as well as summer breaks, hordes of tourists come to visit this lovely island).

Camiguin, Philippines
Photo by paw con

Where to Stay

Fancy staying on a really quirky, spacious and maze-like trippy accommodation on top of a hotel wrapped around a century old acacia tree? We did when we ended up staying in the uber-charming, environmentally friendly Enigmata Treehouse (also known as Ecolodge and Sculpture Garden). There are four types of accommodation – the Eagle’s Nest which sits at the treetop and has a great view of the mountains, and forests of the island, a wide hammock, canopy beds (2), a dining area, a toilet and shower. Materials are basically made out of recycled materials, bamboo, found materials and designed with Mandalas art, bamboo wind chimes, and probably the most number of dream catchers of every size I have ever seen. Nevertheless, whether from the sheer exhaustion from travel or from the dream catchers- we had a pretty good, relaxing, dreamless sleep that night accompanied by a friendly house cat in our bed. Eagle’s Nest accommodation costs PhP950 a night for a minimum of two guests. PhP 200 for extra person). Other accommodations in the tree house is the mid level Shell Garden Suite, a midlevel honeymoon suite costs PhP950 a night for a minimum of two guests. PhP 200 for extra person). The thing though is, the tree house is not entirely sound proof, so coupled with the pretty quiet nights in Camiguin, you may have to reconsider to put off THAT honeymoon activity. There is also a backpacker’s dorm (PhP500/night, minimum of two) and the bartender’s dorm (PhP 400/night, minimum of two) both at the ground level. We absolutely loved Enigmata Treehouse especially with its eco-friendly practices and the very restful stay we had. As we support sustainable and eco-friendly travel – Enigmata gets our absolute recommendation when traveling to Camiguin. You may contact them through their website at – Enigmata – Camiguin Lodge

Enigmata Treehouse
Photo by Dave Ryan

Where & What to Eat

Camiguin is synonymous with the beige colored fruit with sweet, fleshy meat called Lanzones which grow abundantly on the island. It must be from the highly fertile volcanic soil of the island that previously Lanzones non-lovers like our expat writer Scott M. Allford was easily converted to a big Camiguin Lanzones fan. Camiguin Lanzones are quite distinct from other Lanzones we have tasted from other parts of the Philippines as they are consistently sweet. The people of Camiguin love their Lanzones so much that they even have a Lanzones Festival celebrating them every third week of October.

Another Camiguin gastronomic trademark would be another one for the sweet tooth. The Pastel Bread of Camiguin, delicious, soft buns with moist candied milk filling is never ever to be missed whilst traveling to Camiguin. It also comes in different fillings like Durian and many others. You may want to grab a couple of boxes just in case, we finished our box the moment we got home to Manila.

Pastel Bread
Photo by Dave Ryan

Lanzones and the Pastel Bread can be easily had at the Benoni Port and in Mambajao.

Lanzones from Camiguin
Photo by Dave Ryan

For vegan/vegetarian visitors, Enigmata Treehouse has a restaurant with a decent vegan/vegetarian menu.

Nightlife

Signs of Camiguin nightlife are concentrated on some of the resort bars as well as some karaoke bars in Mambajao. During our brief stay there, we probably heard locals belting out songs in at least 3 karaoke bars around town. We haven’t checked it out, but just for kicks and some chuckles, Jewish travelers might want to head out to the Bar Mitzvah and Restaurant located along a coastal highway on your left on a drive from Benoni to Mambajao.

My to do List

1. Sunbathe on the sandbars of White Island. *
2. Visit the Guiob Ruins and the Sunken Cemetery. *
3. Dive by Mantigue Island. **
4. Try the Pastel Bread and Lanzones. *
5. Have doctor fish nibble at your toes at Sto. Niño Cold Spring. **
6. Soak in warm water at Ardent Hot Spring.*
7. Catch the local artists vibe at Enigmata Treehouse.
8. Check out Katibawasan Falls.*
9. Climb Mount Hibok-hibok.**
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

Contrary to what most travel advisories say about Mindanao, Camiguin is a very safe place for travelers (local or foreign).
1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Learn to spot rip tides and make sure you wear a working life-vest!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock.

Getting There

There are several ways to go to Camiguin. One can either fly to Cagayan de Oro or Butuan and then take a bus to Balingoan and then a ferry to the island. All the major Philippine airlines fly to these cities. From Cagayan de Oro, one can take the Paras Sea Cat (about 2 hours) directly to the Camiguin port of Benoni. The town of Jagna in Bohol also has a ferry service heading to Benoni as well. Whilst there are three ports in Camiguin (Balbagon, Benoni and Guinsiliban), Benoni is the busiest. There is an airport north of Mambajao but flights are seasonal. From Balingoan to Benoni, the trip takes about 1 hour depending on weather conditions, and if you get lucky like we did, you could even see dolphins swimming alongside your ferry.

Camiguin Motorella
Photo by Dave Ryan

Colorful motorellas are the primary forms of transport in Camiguin, but multicabs are easier and more convenient to hire and should be able to catch at almost all points on the island within the day. Prices, like almost everything in the island, are stiff at PhP1,800- PhP2,000 for 8 hours with an additional couple of hundred of pesos for every excess hour afterwards. Arrange for a pickup with your hotel/resort for your convenience, although we ended up having to hitchhike with a very friendly family in their tiny van just to save a few pesos- which was pretty cool too.

John Vanek: Any thoughts on safety on NE Mindanao? I get conflicting info. about this area…it’s safe / it’s not safe.

Thanks a lot.

Answer

Ryan:Hi John,
Where exactly in NE Mindanao do you plan to go? Dinagat and Siargao Islands are definitely safe. An international surfing competition is held regularly in Siargao without any problems. Last year or two years ago I think, there was an attack by communist rebels in Siargao, but is more of an exception than the rule. No tourists were harmed in the attacks. Aside from surfing, Siargao also has some nice beaches as well. Dinagat on the other hand has a mini-hundred islands sort of thing going, the problem with Dinagat though is that there is only one resort in the area (AFIK). Camiguin is very safe as well. Cagayan de Oro, maybe you should stay off crowded areas as the city sometimes get attacked by Muslim insurgents intermittently – although white water rafting in the city is superb and generally Cagayan de Oro is a jump off point for people traveling to Camiguin. For updated news on these areas, you may want to check out online Philippine newspapers for your reference like Philippine Star or the Philippine Daily Inquirer.
Cheers!
Ryan