Dave H: I was hoping you might be able to give me some advice on my itinerary. My girlfriend and I (roughly 30 years old) are arriving in the philippines on the 28th of december. So far we have the following trip planned and it is the second half I want help with.
28th/29th Manila
30th fly to busuanga 3 days in coron
taking the Tao expedition cruise down to el Nido
7th -9th el nido
10th/11th/12th port barton, underground river and on to P Princessa

Basically we fly out on the 24th from Manilla and we’re hoping to fit in a trek up a volcano and maybe the whale sharks in Donsol. Other than that we’re looking for relaxed islands with fairly laid back accomodation

at present we were looking at flying back to Manila and getting either the overnight bus or early flight to legaspi and straight on to donsol. we then really want a taste of the visayas. In our research we liked the sound of sipalay, siquijer (sorry for my spelling), dumaguete, camiguin (really liked this but think this might be too difficult/time consuming). If we were to fly to cebu what route would you recommend that would give us the most experiences for the least amount of travel. We are on a budget but if there’s cheap flights that save a lot of time then we’re happy enough to splash out.

Thanks for any advice you might have.

Dave

Answer

Scott: If you’re looking to trek up a volcano then Taal is close to Manila. You can catch a bus to Tagaytay and then get to Talisay and catch a boat across the lake to Taal volcano and climb it all in a day. It is also possible to climb Mt. Pinatubo in a day from Manila.
As for Donsol, That time of year is still a little early to be guaranteed whaleshark sightings.
With Dumaguete, most flights from Manila are usually a bit expensive. I think the cheaper way is to fly to Cebu then catch a bus down to the south and then get a ferry across to Negros. From Dumaguete you can get out to Siquijor by ferry. Sipalay is at 4-6 hours drive from the two airports in Negros. Just north of Dumaguete is Bais City, they have a big white sandbar and dolphin watching. There’s also some nice national parks, waterfalls and mountains in that area too.
From Cebu you can take a ferry to Bohol and then another ferry on to Camiguin, if you’re looking for a cheaper option.
Camiguin is a bit more expensive and many places in Palawan are expensive.
Hope that helps.
Cheers.
Scott

Batanes

Batanes Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Things to Bring
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Taming the wind and the waters in the northernmost Philippine frontier, the relatively isolated islands of the Batanes, the home of the resilient and welcoming Ivatans, with its rolling hills, subtropical climate, ancient cultures, windswept traditional stone houses and breathtaking landscapes and seascapes which perhaps make it one of the prettiest corners of the world.

After about 1 hour and 45 minutes SEAIR flight from Manila, we finally caught a glimpse of the northernmost province of the Philippines and from the air, one can see the fields that look like a labyrinthine patchwork of green bordered by tall hedgerows of grass, reeds, piled stones and trees which serve as a crop protection from the fierce winds, and typhoons which commonly pass near the islands as well as huge waves that crash into dramatic cliffs and rocks that jut out into the ocean, which undoubtedly look incredibly similar to the English moors and Scottish Highlands with a Filipino twist. Think Wuthering Heights and you’ll know what we mean. In 1687, English freebooters with a Dutch crew arrived in these islands and named three of the islands in honor of their monarchs- the main island of Batan was named Grafton Isle after Henry Fitzroy, First Duke of Grafton; Sabtang was named Monmouth Isle after James Scott, First Duke of Monmouth and Itbayat was named Orange Isle after William of Orange. The freebooters were led by William Dampier who stayed on the islands for three months but never claimed the islands for the British crown.

Mahatao Hedgerows
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Batanes is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east, South China Sea to the west, Bashi Channel and Taiwan to the north and the Balintang Channel to the south. It is composed of 11 islands, of which Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan Islands are inhabited while Ditarem, Adekey, Vuhus, Misanga, Dinem, Mavudis and all others are uninhabited.

We held our breaths as the Dornier plane finally landed at the Basco Airport, with its tiny terminal building inspired by the traditional Ivatan stone house, a refreshingly different architectural and classy take on the many airports that I have went through so far. Under the shadows of the looming Mount Iraya in the distance, finally we had arrived in Batanes.

Early in its history, Batanes already had a civilization flourishing on its islands and was ruled by powerful chiefs who exacted revenues, administered justice, as well as exercised military might especially during times of invasion from other tribes. The idjangs or fortresses of pre-colonial Batanes can still be found all over the islands and they are usually perched on hilltops like the ones that we have seen on Sabtang and Batan Island (Itbud). The idjang in Savidug on Sabtang Island is considered to be one of the most perfectly shaped and the most beautiful among all the Batanes idjangs. Apparently, experts have noted how these idjangs are pretty similar to the gusukus found in Okinawa, Japan. The ancient Ivatans who are Austronesian in origin lived on these idjangs since they first migrated into Batanes about 4,000 years ago during the Neolithic Period. It was during the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish governorship was established along the coastlines and lowlands which forced the early Ivatans- the people of the islands, to come down from their idjangs and convert to the new system of government. It was around 1686 and 1719 when Dominicans sent expeditions to the islands to proselytize and by 1773, the Ivatans became subjects of the Spanish King. It was only in June 26, 1783, over two centuries after the formal colonization of the Philippines by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, when Batanes was formally annexed to the Spanish Colonial State under Governor Jose Basco y Vargas. The capital town Basco, obviously got its name from the Spanish Governor General’s surname.

Batanes Lighthouse
Photo by xave

The Spanish imprint on the islands became indelible when it was finally decreed that no house should be built more than 2,786 meters (half a league) from the nearest church. The Dominican influence is very much alive today in the similar architectural styles of the Batanes churches – the most notable churches are the gorgeous churches of San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873), Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century), Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat as well as the church in Chavayan, the latter, is the only church left in Batanes which still sports a thatched roof and probably the only pink church in the Philippines, the church of Itbud.

Limestone technology was introduced to the islands by the Spaniards and is still pretty much evident among the Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof which dot the three inhabited islands. The Itbayat houses apparently are built the sturdiest as they receive the harshest winter winds from Siberia from December to February. Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses and quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang felt like being transported to another world and where time just stood still. Chavayan, which is currently nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List, was exceptionally stunning with the village nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea where the churning waters of the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It was also in Chavayan where we met Lolo Emilio, Batanes’ oldest resident at 102 years old going 103. Like most of the houses in the islands, the houses in Chavayan are normally left unlocked while the Ivatans leave for the fields to farm or to the oceans to fish. Batanes enjoys an extremely low crime rate so much that we couldn’t help but pay the local police station a visit. According to the Ivatan’s Finest, the local police force’s nickname, aside from the occasional noisy drunks, Batanes is pretty crime-free. Of course save for the Vietnamese, Chinese and Taiwanese fishermen usually caught illegally entering and fishing in Philippine waters around Batanes. Strangers greet each other on the street. After the first day, we finally caught up with this practice and I ended up greeting every person while I was taking photos by the National Highway.

Chavayan Heritage House
Photo by Dave Ryan

Just as the rains started pouring, we ducked into probably one of the quirkiest and the most refreshing places we went to – the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. The rules are simple, you choose what item you want to get, check the price list, and drop your payment into a box The owner who prefers to work in the field leaves the store and basically trusts their customers to be honest and pay the right amount even when no one’s looking. One of the signs on the wall reads “This store is too small for dishonest people.” True enough, not one customer has been dishonest so far.

It goes without saying that there are only about 15,974 (2007 census) people living on the only three inhabited islands, making the province the most sparsely populated in the Philippines and at 219.01 square kilometers, also the smallest province by land area. With the sounds of wind and the waves, there was a utter stillness even during the middle of the day in Batanes and moreso at night where streets are literally empty around 6PM. Electricity is on for 24 hours on the main island of Batan while Itbayat and Sabtang have electricity from 6AM-12MN. In the charming fishing village of Diura (three kilometers east of Mahatao town), which faces the Pacific Ocean and the site of busy arayu (dorado/mahi-mahi) fishing season in summer virtually becomes a ghost town during the cool winter season and from the cliffs in Tukun, one can see the only three lit lamp posts in the area. The fishermen of Diura perform the Kapayvanuvanua (which literally means, “the making of the port”), a ritual opening the port to obtain the favor of the spirit dwellers of the sea and signifies the start of the fishing season.

Taming the Waves at Sabtang Port
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Being master seafarers and boat builders, the Ivatans are known to be well versed in reading the stars and the phases of the moon in relation to sailing between the islands. According to our extremely helpful and hospitable Ivatan guides from the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (http://batanestravel.com/), Ely Gabilo and Tita Donato, the seas are rougher 3 days before and 3 days after a full moon and a new moon. The boats of Batanes are called the tataya (an Ivatan dory, a smaller boat usually with twin oars), the faluwa, (Ivatan boat, usually motorized as is pretty common with most boats in Batanes now and can accommodate 20-40 people and in some instances cattle and livestock- during our trip to Sabtang from Batan, we had to wait for a cow to be unloaded from the faluwa first before we boarded the last boat for the day) and the chinarem. The boats of Batanes are hardy and in the hands of a good captain, they can skillfully navigate their way through the chaotic waves that are as unpredictable as the weather in Batanes. The way I felt us moving through the waves felt like we were actually surfing the waves ( I could hear similar rushing sounds one would hear while surfing as the boat moved forward and weaved its way through the roaring waves) and eventually my suspicions were confirmed by the boatmen themselves.

The seafaring culture is pretty evident in Batanes even in the pre-Spanish boat shaped burial markers found scattered all throughout the islands (we have reports that one can find such markers at Vuhus Island, an island south of Sabtang facing the village of Sumnanga, another stunningly beautiful village made up of traditional stone houses. Sumnanga is called Little Hong Kong for the number of boats that line the coast of Duvek Bay. There are similar burial markers found on Nakamaya as well as at Nahili du Vutux, an ancient settlement which is characterized with an idjang, boat shaped burial markers, and a gorgeous view of Dinem and the eastern coast of Itbayat Island.

Windswept hills, steep cliffs, and rugged coastlines pretty much characterize typical Batanes topography, as seen in Rakuh-A-Payaman or better known for its nickname as the Marlborough Country as well as the Vayang or the Rolling Hills with the many grazing carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes), cows, horses and goats roaming the areas. The coasts made misty by ocean mists such as what we saw on our way to Chavayan along one lane road that hugs the sides of the cliffs just left us literally speechless for its absolute beauty. From Rakuh-A-Payaman as well as in Tukun, one can see the hedgerows from a distance; the spectacular scenery makes these areas one of the many favorite spots for photography in Batan Island. Tukun is the site of the northernmost Philippine weather station (PAG-ASA) in the country where the province is used as the last reference point of any tropical weather disturbance thus unfairly associating the province with perpetual bad weather. The weather station sits on top of the hill with a commanding and panoramic view of the northern portion of Batan Island where one can literally see both the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time. Also in Tukun is the beautiful former studio of Batanes’ foremost artist, the late Pacita Abad. The studio which stands on a cliff facing the Pacific is now part of the Fundacion Pacita, a charming bed and breakfast affair run by affable Former Education Secretary Butch Abad and his wife Ms. Dina Abad.

Sabtang Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes also boasts of stretches of white and cream colored sandy beaches, probably the most famous of which is the Nakabuang Beach on Sabtang with its often photographed stone/rock arch formation where picnics are usually held during the summer months. The smaller White Beach and the nearby Blue Lagoon in Mahatao offers pretty views as well. Swimming is unsafe in Blue Lagoon however, that is if you don’t want to get smashed into the massive rocks while White Beach is a good and passable beach in our opinion (however, we saw a small but growing problem of garbage around the area which we hope would be addressed pretty soon, Nakabuang Beach is in more pristine condition). A private beach, Disvayangan has a row of private picnic houses for rent. Diving (www.divebatanes.com/) is also possible in Batanes with Duvek Bay in Sumnanga having one of the best coral conditions in Batanes as well as in Siayan Island about 5.5 nautical miles from Itbayat which is surrounded by beautiful white beaches and rich coral which teems with abundant marine life.

Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island in the Philippines, however, does not have any beaches as the entire island is basically surrounded by cliffs. There are other interesting islands in the area, however, they are better reached during the summer months as travel from islands can take a lot of time and the waves can be treacherous. One of the most striking and probably one of the images that we will probably remember about our trip to Batanes would be the Valugan Boulder Beach facing the Pacific where huge smooth stones spewed out by Mount Iraya during an eruption in 400 AD are found right along the beach.

Fundacion Pacita
Photo by Dave Ryan

The formidable looking mountains and hills of Batanes are a great challenge to mountaineers. Mount Iraya on Batan Island rises to about 1,009 meters above sea level and is the highest peak on Batan Island and its spring water is the main source of water for Basco. A good climb for mountaineers, it is also home of the Batanes pit viper, an arboreal snake found only in Batanes and one of the rarest snake species in the world. The Batanes Pit Vipers live on trees and produce their young from eggs hatching within their bodies. They are typically green in color with some others having yellow, black, orange or red markings. Mount Iraya is also home to an abundant number of endemic species of flora and fauna. Some of the flora and fauna that can be found in Batanes are the Indochinese Shrew, Ryukyu Flying Fox, Asian Water Snake and plants like the Voyavoy (a Philippine date palm which is used to make another iconic Batanes item- the Vakul- the traditional headgear for women who use them to protect themselves from the sun, and the rain; the men use the traditional vests called Kanayi and the Salakut as a hat), Kanarem, and Vuhuan. The entire province was declared as a protected landscape and seascape by the Philippine government in 1992.

Cows of Batanes
Photo by Dave Ryan

On Itbayat, there is the Turungan Hill where ancient stone boat-shaped burial markers are found and believed to be the burial ground of the early Ivatans living at the Turungan Cave (believed to be the first landing place of early Austronesians from Taiwan 4,000 years ago) while Mount Ripused, considered as one of the two volcanoes (the other being Mt. Karoobuban – Itbayat’s highest point) that served to be the foundation of Itbayat, has great views southeast portion of the island including the airstrip and Lake Kayaywan. Rapang Cliff, also on Itbayat, is a natural park with rocky hills, cliffs, a forest and a grazing area. One can also find the bonsai version of the native Batanes arius tree which is commonly found all throughout the province. There is a natural stone bell which is a flat stone that lies naturally upon another stone and produces a sound resembling a bell. The stone bell served as warning system for early settlers especially when there were enemies approaching as well as a signal for meetings and goat gathering. There are also hiking opportunities on Dinem Island. Contact Batanes Mountaineers (http://batanesmountaineers.multiply.com/) for more information regarding mountaineering in Batanes.

The province also plays host to many lighthouses, the oldest (but now defunct) of which still stands in Mahatao in front of the Mahatao Church. The Basco Lighthouse on Naidi Hills which is also the site of the American era wireless telegraph facilities until being bombed to smithereens by invading Japanese Imperial Army forces is the best place to catch the picturesque Basco sunset. The Basco Lighthouse is considered the oldest working lighthouse in the province now. Other noteworthy lighthouses with gorgeous views would be the Tayid Lighthouse, on the other part of Batan Island facing the South China Sea as well as the Sabtang Island Lighthouse near Sabtang Port.

Ruins of Sungsung
Photo by Noli Gabilo

One would also find the remains of what used to be a vibrant village in the town of Uyugan, the Ruins of Sungsung, (a group of destroyed lime and stone houses a few meters from the beach) as it is called, are what is left after the village was wiped out in a tidal wave in 1954. While the houses in Sungsung were unfortunate, the UNESCO World Heritage Building House of Dakay (Vahay ni Dakay) in Ivana survived a big earthquake on September 13, 1918 which leveled the entire town. The House of Dakay, which was built in 1887 by Luisa Estrella, is one of the 5 houses which survived the tremor and went on to become the oldest existing stone house in Batanes. The house was bequeathed by Luisa to her nephew Jose “Dakay” Estrella whom the house was named after. The current occupant is Lola Florestida Estrella, a kind and rather frail looking lady in her advanced years seemed pretty happy to receive us graciously inside her home. Our guide told us afterwards that the old lady needs financial help to keep her and her house going. Also even if she is probably the most photographed woman in Batanes, she doesn’t usually get to see her photos as well. Good thing we showed her the photo that we took of ourselves with her. The house which is pretty much in great condition is made up of stone, coral and lime walls and original shutters and hardwood floors. The roof made out of cogon as is customary in traditional houses in Batanes is changed every 30 years. Also when in Batan, make time to explore Imnajbu, the last village from Basco. When residents are tending to their farms, you will probably see all the doors and windows in the village open.

House of Dakay
Photo by lightindependent

Also check the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel, where the Japanese hid during World War 2. Although areas of the tunnel were heavily vandalized and seemed poorly maintained by the local government it is still worth a visit. One can take a torch and a short guided tour inside the elaborate tunnel. Batanes was the site of the first Japanese landing in the Philippines during World War 2 which coincided with the day Pearl Harbor was bombed.

Going even further off the beaten track, there is the sinkhole which works as a giant drain in Itbayat called Manoyok which is believed to be haunted. The sinkhole was found to be around 45 meters deep with two big chambers and a narrow passage between them and apparently, this was where the ancient Ivatans used to throw witches as a punishment. There is also Kumayasakas Cave and water source, an underground stream in the northwest of Itbayat and the Rakuh-a-idi Springs (also known as the Spring of Youth) on Batan Island. If the weather permits, one may even go to the northernmost island of Mavudis (also called Y’ami), an uninhabited island covered with palms and mangoes which also serves as a refuge for fishermen. On a clear day, one can even see Taiwan. All over Batan and Sabtang we saw possible surfing opportunities for advanced surfers, we even saw a surfboard hanging around in Malakdang!

The Vakul
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes Cultural Travel Agency or BCTA (http://www.batanestravel.com) probably offers the most consistent and the most definitive travel arrangements for those planning to head out and visit these beautiful islands. We went with BCTA on this trip, and it was a very pleasant one and we were taken care of by their wonderful staff in Manila and their experienced Ivatan tour guides in Batanes. BCTA’s Manila Office is at Unit 201 Parc Chateau, Onyx Road, Ortigas Center, Pasig City, Philippines. In the Philippines: call (+63.2) 9108801. 6354810, 6342982; Mobile- 0917-811-BCTA; US/Canada – 1-888-808-4123 or you may catch them on Skype ID: bctasales.

Why Not Go

Excessive noise, rudeness and lack of cultural and environmental concern are frowned upon not only by the Ivatans but travelers like us who are protective of the stunning beauty of these islands. Trust, honesty and community spirit are the operative words here. There are no malls here, no clubs, and no fastfood chains. If you are looking for that then Batanes is not for you, so just leave Batanes alone.

Why Go

Batanes is perfect for honeymooners and other couples as the province provides a calm, serene and contemplative respite from the noise and chaos of urban living. It also great destination for serious travelers who are more interested in communing with nature and culture at the same time rather than just taking pretty photos and getting senselessly drunk.

One of the main things that we totally love about Batanes was that aside from extremely pretty scenery, amazing culture, great food and hospitable people, it is still in pretty much pristine condition and has not been ravaged by mass tourism as in a lot of places in the country. Due to its relative isolation and because it’s a little more expensive to get to, Batanes tourism, if administered properly, is poised to create an important niche in the tourism industry. For now, it has generally avoided major and noisy crowds looking to make the requisite jump shots of themselves. We hope that it stays that way for good.

Best Time to Visit

Depending on which weather you are after, Batanes is a good year round destination, save for the stormy months of July – September. The weather is cool, with the coldest months around December to February when the temperatures drop down to as low as 7C-10C. During the summer months from March to June, the seas are calmer, and trips to other islands are easier. When traveling to Batanes however, you must have a very flexible schedule as flights and boat trips can get canceled at the last minute. If you intend to travel and sufficiently cover most of the main destinations just for Sabtang and Batan, a 4 day trip can suffice, if you wish to head out to Itbayat as well, you may as well make sure that you stay there for a week. But trust us, once you get to Batanes, you actually won’t want to leave.

Where to Stay

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For now, there are enough rooms to let in Batanes. We had the pleasure of staying in three different lodgings while we were in the province. While our Sabtang trip was meant to be a day tour, the boatman refused to return to Batan because the waves were really getting rough so we ended up staying the night at the Municipal Guesthouse by Sabtang port. Arranged by BCTA, we had a rather spartan room of two single beds with the window opening to the ocean. With the windows left open to let the cool ocean air in, we slept quite soundly under a blanket.

On the second night, we ended up staying at the clean and convenient Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant in Basco on the main island, run by the very efficient Ms. Lydia Roberto, it is perfect for groups. Batanes Seaside boasts of being the official lodging place of film crews who shot the film Batanes and if I am not mistaken was also the base for the film Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit, a Tagalog adaptation of the film Wuthering Heights.

For our last night in Batanes, we were invited to stay at the sprawling Fundacion Pacita (http://www.fundacionpacita.ph/) in Tukun by Ms, Dina Abad. The well-appointed suites adorned with the artworks of up and coming Ivatan artists all sit on a cliff with private verandahs which overlook the gorgeous Pacific Ocean and the nearby fishing village of Diura. The suites are a beautiful fusion of traditional Ivatan architecture with nice maritime touches and a warm country feel. The atmosphere was incredibly dreamy and perfect for honeymooning couples. The next morning we were even invited for a cup of coffee and jam with toast by the owner herself at their main house, whose balcony has well tended topiary and a stunning view of the cliffs and the ocean. Aside from being a haven for Ivatan artists, Fundacion Pacita is also very active in heritage conservation projects all over Batanes which makes it one of our top choices of places to stay in the province.

We were meant to stay in a stone house in Diura, but due to the delay from our trip back to Batan, it was too late to arrange lodgings there. Meanwhile, Pension Ivatan’s lodgings by Valugan Beach are only open during the summer season.

Aside from these, there are other places to stay in Batanes and you may have to coordinate with them or the travel agency first before heading out there.

Where & What to Eat

Before coming to Batanes, we had no idea of the local cuisine and we did not know what to expect except that we asked BCTA to make sure we get authentic Ivatan fare all throughout our stay. And we did.

Luñis
Photo by Dave Ryan

Sabtang is perhaps known for Tatus, the local name for the Coconut Crabs. While I could not verify whether it is an endangered animal, the locals said that during the cold season, the crabs hide and are harder to catch and while we were in Sabtang, apparently we ate the last coconut crab on the island for the season. We do not support eating of endangered animals, and unfortunately we weren’t informed that it is now included among the list of threatened species and taking the Tatus out of Batanes is strictly prohibited. Skip this one out if you can. The crab gets its diet from eating coconuts thus its name, while the meat in its pincers is very difficult to get, the fat was incredibly creamy and has the slight coconut aftertaste. Also in Sabtang, we had grilled Kanañiz, which is literally a squid which is tougher and thicker than what we are used to eating. If you have sensitive teeth, you may want to pass over the Kanañiz.

Tugi
Photo by Dave Ryan

While dry and a little too crunchy, Luñis or Adobo Ivatan Style was a tasty twist on this famous Philippine dish. Instead of the usual vinegar, soy and herbs marinade, the Luñis only uses salt and is cooked until dry. Due to the unpredictable weather in Batanes, the Ivatans learned to do preserving techniques for their food to last them during the stormy months. We also had Puhug (Winged Beans or Sigarilyas in Tagalog) mixed with meat which was well cooked and all fresh and Tuhos nu Wakay (Camote Tops/ Talbos ng Kamote) sautéed in garlic which was rather clean tasting compared to the ones in Luzon. I was never a fan of the Luzon variety of Camote Tops, but I could not have stopped myself eating my veggies in Batanes. After all, Ivatans don’t use chemical fertilizers or pesticides- everything is organic!

Hapa, Ivatan Style Laing
Photo by Dave Ryan

At Rakuh-a-Payaman, we had a massive lunch and extremely delicious too. We almost devoured everything on the table (save for the plates and the cutlery). BCTA prepared such delectable Ivatan food that we are still wistfully thinking of it until this day. Aside from rice, Batanes main staple is root crops which better survive the sometimes harsh weather conditions. This is exemplified with root crop dishes such as the boiled tugi (yam) and the venes, (dried stalks of taro) where the venes is shredded and mixed with meat like beef or pork. Of course there is the hapa, an Ivatan twist to the Bicolano laing where fresh stalks of taro are cooked in fresh coconut milk and sprinkled with tiny dried fish on top, and with the Ivatan classic turmeric rice, it was just heavenly. Interestingly, the Ivatans also grill pork the way I used to, just rub the pork with sea salt and then grill it over charcoal. It gives the meat a more natural flavor and when dipped in spiced silam, (the Ivatan sugarcane vinegar) it is pure joy.

We also loved the fried dibang (flying fish, I guess the fish wasn’t quick enough as he landed on my plate) for breakfast at Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. Try the arayu (mahi-mahi) as well, which is always freshly caught from the seas surrounding the province. We were on our way back to Batan when we had to stop in the middle of the ocean when one of the passengers caught two big arayus.
For those with a sweet tooth, try their own version if uvi halaya which is a mixture of uvi (yam), dukay, and sugar cooked in fresh coconut milk.

To cap the meal, either fresh coconut juice or a warm Ivatan spirit, the palek, Batanes’ answer to the Ilocos basi (sugarcane wine) is always a great way to finish the meal. For the aged version, try the Minyuvaheng which is dark in color and the Mavaheng which is black.

Nightlife

There is almost virtually no nightlife in Batanes although we spied a karaoke machine next to Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. The best way to enjoy nights in Batanes is to sit back and relax and admire the views of the sea, the starlit skies and the cliffs from one’s hotel room balcony.

My to do List

1. Have an authentic Ivatan lunch at the Rakuh-a-Payaman.*
2. Visit and have pictures with the many docile carabaos in Vayang. *
3. Go Lighthouse hopping!**
4. Stroll along the streets of Chavayan. *
5. Get yourself a Vakul from the Sabtang Weavers. (PhP 350) *
6. Soak in the waters by Nakabuang Beach.**
7. Go hiking in Dinem.
8. Visit the burial markers in Itbayat.
9. Take a lot of photos! **
10. Take a glimpse at the artworks at Fundacion Pacita. *
11. Go mountaineering and climb Mt Iraya.
12. Share stories with Lola at the House of Dakay. *
13. Sip a cup of coffee at the Honesty Coffee Shop.**
14. Visit the churches of Batanes. **
15. Go fishing! *
16. Witness the Kapayvanuvanua in Diura.*
17. Search for the best surf spot or go diving!
18. Take out your jacket and wrap around your scarf and experience winter in the Philippines! *
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Things to Bring

• Bring your personal medicines.
• Trekking shoes.
• Cash – ATM Cards, Credit Cards are rarely accepted and used.
• Sunblock, lip balm and sunglasses.
• Bug repellent.
• Jacket, or a scarf to protect from cold during the winter months.
• Extra memory cards and batteries for the camera – we almost used up 3 GB of photos and videos.
• Mobile phone and your chargers.
• Passports for foreigners and valid IDs for identification for locals.
• A well-stocked mp3 player.
• A good book to read while you wait for boats and flights.
• Ziplocs to keep your valuables from getting wet.
• Love for the environment and for the Ivatan culture!

Stay Away From

Drowning – Make sure you wear a working life-vest when swimming in bodies of water! Keep away from raging surfs as some of the areas may have rip tides. The boatmen would usually never travel when the seas are considered rough. Heed what the locals say. Don’t go if they tell you no.

Getting There

Basco Airport Terminal Building
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes is accessible through a 1 hour and 45 minute flight from Manila through Southeast Asian Airlines or SEAIR (http://www.flyseair.com/), the only airline that currently serves the Manila-Basco route through its 32-seater Dornier planes. While flight cancellations can be common due to bad weather, the flight was generally smoother than what we expected. It was our first time with SEAIR and we were quite pleased with their simple but efficient service. To book, check out their website (http://www.flyseair.com/) or you may call them +632 849.0100 or visit their office at 2nd Floor La’O Centre, Arnaiz Ave. Makati City, Philippines 1200. Currently, the Itbayat Airport is closed for renovation and improvement. Once it is opened, flights between Basco and Itbayat would hopefully commence and bypass the approximately 3-5 hours travel time between the islands by a faluwa.

Alternatively, there are flights coming from Tuguegarao in Cagayan Province through Batanes Airlines and Chemtrad but these are mostly seasonal flights. For the adventurous, one can take the boat (MISUBI Sea Transportation Cooperative) from Santa Ana, Cagayan which supposedly plies twice a week but we have no confirmation of this information.
Around Batanes, the most common form of transportation is by riding a bicycle, which is no wonder, the province is called the Bicycle Capital of the Philippines. There were very few jeepneys available in all the islands, and if I am not mistaken, there were only or two in the entire Sabtang.

Traveling to Sabtang (45 minutes from Batan) requires one to be up very early in the morning to catch the first, and maybe the only trip for that day. Be at the San Vicente Port by 6AM and you’d be safe. Remember to be flexible with your times here as we have experienced a 4 hour wait for a faluwa going to Sabtang and an 8 hour wait going back to Batan.

A Batanes Faluwa
Photo by Dave Ryan

Prepare to walk around town as there is a dearth of public transportation on all the islands (especially in Itbayat where there still no public transportation). Otherwise, you may want to arrange with your travel agent beforehand so that vans may be provided

Bataan

Bataan Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Just about 2.5 hours drive from Metro Manila is the province of Bataan, although more known for its crucial role during the World War 2 in the Pacific is increasingly a shining new eco-tourism destination which offers notable bird-watching sites, turtle sanctuaries, springs, waterfalls and of course countless, and thoughtful shrines to the courage of humanity over the horrors of a not-so distant war.

Mention Bataan and instantly what comes to mind are the horrors of the last World War, after all the infamous Bataan Death March which started in Bagac and Mariveles towns will forever be etched in the annals of world history where Filipino and American soldiers were forcibly marched. Of the 72,000 prisoners, only 54,000 reached their final destinations after enduring the most brutal conditions – while the exact count will never be determined, a lot of Filipino and American soldiers were beheaded, bayoneted, beaten by rifle butts, starved, and disembowelments were commonplace along the route which is now marked by stone markers. According to our Bataeño guides, Bataan locals, pitying the Allied soldiers, would sometimes create a commotion as a diversion so that soldiers would be able to make a dash to freedom and disappear in the crowd. Of course, like most places in the Philippines, there is more than what meets the eye.

Ciudad Acuzar
Photo by webzer

Occupying the entire Bataan Peninsula is the province of Bataan in the southwestern part of Central Luzon which faces the South China Sea and forms part of the enclosure of Manila Bay to the east. The peninsula is an extension of the rocky Zambales Mountains to the north and features Mt. Natib (1,253 meters) and the Mariveles Mountains, which includes probably the most distinguishable and most well known Bataan landmark Mt. Samat which is the location of the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) marker which commemorates the heroism and bravery as well as the horrors of the Bataan Death March.

The Historic Abucay Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Prior to World War 2, Bataan already had its share of a rather tumultuous history when in 1574 Chinese pirate Limahong used the province (Lusong Point) as a launch pad for his attempt to conquer Luzon (which was of course successfully thwarted). In 1647, the Dutch attempted the same where nearly 200 people were massacred mercilessly in the town of Abucay and over 40 (including the Alcalde Mayor and two Dominican priests) were taken as prisoners to the Dutch colony of Batavia. A plaque marker at the over four centuries-old Abucay Church (also known as St. Dominic’s Church) where the fierce battle was fought stands as a mute remembrance to the carnage in its courtyard hundreds of years ago. It was also in this church where the earliest printing presses in the Philippines began their operations. As early as 1810 Tomas Pinpin and Father Francisco Blancas de San Jose printed several books in Spanish and Tagalog. Abucay Church also features and ornately designed main door which features animals, a person and florid designs which immediately capture one’s attention. The Cathedral Parish of St. Joseph in Balanga meanwhile was used as an artillery emplacement during the Japanese invasion to bombard the Filipino and American forces who made their last stand on Mt. Samat.

The Dambana ng Kagitingan (Brgy. Diwa, Pilar) features a gigantic cross on top of a mountain (Mt. Samat) which seemed to be the silent sentinel of this peninsula. The shrine sits in an area of about 73,665 hectares and was completed and inaugurated in 1970 by then the late Philippine dictator Ferdinand Marcos. By the foot of this imposing Memorial Cross (which towers 555 meters above sea level) is the marble capped Colonnade which includes a stained glass mural behind the altar, 19 scriptural marble at the parapet. 2 bronze urns which symbolize the Eternal flame, 18 bronze insignias and its 18 flag poles with colors of USAFFE Divisions/Units, and several inscriptions of the Battle of Bataan. The cross itself is made of steel and reinforced concrete. It has an elevator and a viewing gallery located on the arms of the cross. From the base, the cross is at 92 meters while the arms are 74 meters from the base. The elevator however does not work all the time as we found out ourselves when we got there, if it is so happens that the electricity conks out while you are at the viewing gallery, you have no other option but to use the stairs coming down. Around the base of the cross are sculptural slabs and sculptural bas-reliefs “Nabiag na Bato” which portray significant historical events and battles by National Artist Napoleon Abueva. From the base of the Cross to the Collonade is a zigzagging footpath on the slope of the mountain and paved with bloodstones from nearby Corregidor Island.

Aside of course from the Dambana ng Kagitingan in Pilar, a lot of other significant historical markers dot the entire peninsula most of which refer to the significant events of World War 2 as well as other historical events. In the only landlocked town of Dinalupihan, one can find the First Line of Defense Marker, Hermosa has the Democracy and the Commemorative Markers, Orani has the Death March Marker, Abucay has the Main Battle Position Marker, Tomas Pinpin Monument and the Maria Canon Statue, Pilar has the Flaming Sword, and Battle Trail 2. Orion has the Cayetano Arellano Monument, Limay has the Alangan Marker, and Balanga City has the Surrender Site Marker (located inside the Balanga Elementary School where Maj. Gen. King formalized the surrender of the USAFFE forces in the Philippines to Lt. Gen. Homma), and the Fall of Bataan markers. Bagac town has the Battle of Toul pocket and the Philippine-Japanese Friendship marker. Both Bagac and Mariveles have the Zero Kilometer Death March markers (the Bataan Death March started at two points- Bagac and Mariveles). Meanwhile, the town of Morong which used to be refugee processing area for the Vietnamese boat people who were fleeing the Vietnam War has Vietnamese Shrines and Monuments dedicated to the erstwhile Philippine guests. The Philippines as a country has a long humanitarian tradition of accepting refugees from other countries from the Malay chieftains fleeing the iron-fisted rule of Sultan Makatunaw in Borneo to the Jewish people during Nazi occupation of Europe and from the Vietnamese boat people to the North Koreans using the Philippines as a transit country to South Korea.

Vietnamese Shrine in Morong, Bataan
Photo by chewychua

Far from just being stuck in the past, Bataan now is a hub of industry and a growing and important ecotourism destination. For its part, Balanga City, the capital, is becoming increasingly noticed in the international bird-watching circles with three known birding sites: the Sibacan-Lote Bird Site, Pto, Rivas Ibaba Bird Site and the Tortugas Bird Site, where we experienced birding for the first time. The entire peninsula lies in the path of the East Asian-Australian Flyway where massive numbers of birds undertake an annual exodus from north to south all around the world during the months of September to March of the following year to escape the harsh winters. As these birds travel, there are several requisite stops along the way, one of these many stops in the Philippines is Balanga where a huge number of water and forest birds from China, Japan, Siberia, Russia and Canada stop over at the wetland, and mangrove forests of the area. January 2009 saw Balanga top the annual Asian Waterbird Census in the Philippines conducted by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines with a whopping total of 15,271 waterfowl count. At least 35 species and 15 families were recorded flying this migration route.

It was quite refreshing to know that the local government unit in Bataan is actively involved in protecting the mangroves, the mudflats, grasslands and wetlands of the region. We spied a mangrove nursery in Tortugas while we were there, nets were also installed along the coasts to catch trash that washes out of Manila Bay. The local government of Bataan and the communities face an arduous and uphill battle, but so it seemed for us, the current crop of Bataan officials does have a great concern towards the environment. The best time to go birding is around 6:30AM-7:30AM in the morning, and make sure you bring with you a pretty good pair of binoculars. There is a little bit of development around the area with an observation deck being constructed in the area. The local government of Balanga is hoping to provide birders, students and tourists a nature walk, trail hiking jogging paths, camping, boat rides, and forest exposure experience in its sanctuaries. Being amateur birders as we are, we spotted egrets, herons and kingfishers during our brief yet exhilarating experience. Make sure you wear earth-tone colored shirts as loud colors may distract and drive away birds.

Bird-watching in Balanga
Photo by Dave Ryan

The Tortugas site which is also home to a coastal community whose main livelihood depends on fishing, and processing fish sauce and smoked fish is also an excellent feeding and roosting ground for Black Headed Gulls, Curlew Sandpipers, Blue Tailed Bee Eaters, Wood Sandpipers, Terek Sandpipers, Great Egrets, Asian Dowitcher, Common Kingfishers, Cattle Egrets, Sunbirds, Little Egrets, Whimbrels, Marsh Sandpipers, Black Crowned Night Heron, Rails, Shrikes, White Collared Kingfishers, White Winged Terns, Whiskered Terns, Chinese Egrets, Intermediate Egrets and many other shore birds.

Sibacan-Lote Site meanwhile is home to Fantails, Shrikes, Flycatchers, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Trillers, as well as the Asian Golden Plover, Redshanks, Greenshanks, Pacific Golden Plovers, Kentish Mongolian Plovers, Black Winged Stilts, and many other insect and flower feeding birds as well as several species of egrets.

Pto. Rivas Ibaba Bird Site is also a stopover meanwhile to Purple Herons, Brahminy Kites, Chestnut Checked Starlings, Wood Sandpipers, Grey Herons, Rufous Necked Stints, White Breasted Waterhens and even the fastest animal in the world was sighted here– the Peregrine Falcon!

Itching to try birding in Bataan? You may contact the helpful people of Balanga City Tourism Office (+63.47.7914008/ tourism@cityofbalanga.gov.ph/ www.balangabirds.com) or the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines (Joey Soriano – jotsoriano@yahoo.com).

The Pawikan
Photo by Racaza

Aside from the bird-watching, Bataan is also known for the Pawikan Conservation Center in Nagbalayong, Morong, Bataan where a community moves to protect sea turtles (locally known as Pawikan) nesting and hatching on its beaches. A community organization composed of former poachers, government agencies and volunteers make up the center which is still being run since it was first established in 1999 in stemming the tide of killing these gentle sea creatures where only 1-3% of the baby turtles ever reach maturity. The Pawikan Conservation Center faces a difficult task ahead of them due to the challenges of climate change as well as poaching by Chinese and Vietnamese fishermen and even Filipino fishermen in other parts of the country. This is aside from the perils that these turtles face from their natural predators such as sharks. To read more and know how to help – read my article on Pawikan Conservation here. We had a great time learning a lot about conservation while we were at the Pawikan Conservation Center and you can even join the group patrolling the beaches around midnight to watch out for turtles who come ashore to lay eggs. Make sure you bring a torch, and for beginners, we’d suggest you to take the easier beach patrol to the left of the sanctuary. Skip the part where you needed to take off your clothes to wade in some chest-deep water. I don’t think that would be very safe especially when you do it in the dead of the night.

The peninsula is also a very good place to do mountain biking with its many winding roads hugging the mountains and different terrains and gorgeous vistas along the way, Bataan holds a lot of promise in this area. We have seen a few mountain bikers in Bataan during our stay. Mountain climbing and trekking exists around the Orani-Morong area with the mountains of Sta. Rosa (800 meters), Natib (1,253 meters), Silanganan (910 meters), and the Bataan Peak (1,000 meters) compose the Bataan Natural Park. Near Mt. Natib are the Pasukulan Falls (Abucay) and the Pilis Falls (Samal). For sure, there are a lot of waterfalls that are still undiscovered in these mountains as well as in the mountains in southern part of the peninsula. Pantingan Peak (1,388 meters) in southeastern borders of Bagac, Mt. Limay (946 meters) in Limay, Mt. Bataan (1,362 meters), Tarak Peak (1,000 meters) and Mt. Mariveles 1,388 meters) offers more mountain climbing and trekking opportunities.

Make sure not to miss the Dunsulan falls near Mt Samat and Kairukan Falls in Morong as well if you have the time. Other beautiful waterfalls that exist in Bataan are the Marukduk Falls, Ambon-ambon Falls and Limutan Falls (Bagac), and Tukal Falls (Hermosa). Aside from the waterfalls, there are many ways to cool down in Bataan and one of which is the natural spring water swimming pools of Sibul Spring in Abucay where pools of varying sizes line the side of a tree-covered hill. The crystal clear waters come from a spring which feeds into the pools. Sibul Spring is a popular destination especially for locals during the scorching summer months and this is also where the best swimmers of the province hone their skills in time for the Philippine National Games. There are some open-air huts for rent as well. Unlike other resorts, we found Sibul pretty clean and dainty and perfect for a restful swim. The local government is currently sprucing up the place, and more amenities should be available for all its guests. As of this writing, overnight stays are still not allowed in Sibul. There is a staircase going up to the top of the hill where a statue of a Japanese goddess (we presume to be) was erected. The Maria Canon statue as it is called was erected for the repose of the souls of those who have fallen during World War 2, and for those who perished on the fields of Gabon, Abucay. It was built by Mie-kin Daichi Shichmucho of the Sohtahsih sect in September 1970.

There are other sports activities happening all around the province such as motocross (Pilar-Orion, Mariveles-Bagac), Mountain Biking (Mariveles, Bagac, Orion from November to April), Circuit Racing (Balanga), Airsoft war games (Pulong Bato, Orion), and Practical Shooting (BATAS Firing Range, Limay), Notable events are the Senakulo (Holy Week, Calaguiman, Samal), Bataan Day (April 9, Dambana ng Kagitingan/Shrine of Valor, Mt. Samat, Pilar), Banga Festival (Last Week of April, Balanga), Pawikan Festival (Last Week of November, Morong), Tagak Festival (November 24, Bagac) and the Paskuhan sa Mabatang (December 15 to January 6, Abucay).

A reproduction of an Escolta building at Ciudad Acuzar
Photo by Dave Ryan

The biggest surprise that we ever encountered in Bataan was the 400 hectare Ciudad Acuzar in the town of Bagac where a collection of Indio stilt houses, 18th century Principalia mansions, and stone houses stand. For those who are loyal followers of Philippine TV, the place would have been very familiar because it was where the Philippine version of Zorro was shot. Our jaws literally dropped and I almost screamed with delight when we entered the huge estate. Imagine abandoned and decaying centuries-old colonial houses from all over Luzon faithfully restored brick by brick, plank by plank, and laid out in clusters next to the sea. The streets were made of bricks as well with a tastefully done plaza at the center- just a spectacular study of Philippine colonial architecture that can probably put Vigan to shame (Vigan’s main advantage however was that the houses were all originally built in the same area as opposed to the relocation done with the houses in Ciudad Acuzar). An entire row of Escolta buildings were also recreated straight from an old photograph. Escolta was Manila’s former commercial center during its heyday (this was where the young and statuesque Imelda Romualdez became a saleslady before going on to be one of the most powerful women in the world).

Ciudad Acuzar was the brainchild of Mr. Jerry Acuzar, an architect and real estate magnate and plans are afoot to turn some of the buildings into a hotel and since the project wasn’t finished yet, we were among the first ones to ever see and enter the place. We were literally astounded about how gorgeous the newly restored houses were and wistfully thought how Manila could have looked the same had the last World War not come and ravaged the city. The Ciudad Acuzar project was also a testament in heritage conservation and paying more than lip service in restoring part of our past as a nation. Ciudad Acuzar is still off limits to the general public but should be open around December 2010.

Despite the association of Bataan with large industrial factories and the mothballed Bataan Nuclear Power Plant (that never opened), I say Bataan is on the right track in its massive efforts in environmental conservation done not only by the local communities but with its very able local government.

Dambana ng Kagitingan
Photo by Dave Ryan

Why Not Go

If you are on the lookout for huge malls or powdery white sand beaches then Bataan is not the proper destination for you, otherwise, the peninsula offers a different experience that seasoned travelers like we are, are going to really appreciate. To keep in touch, however, the local government of Balanga has turned the entire city proper into a wi-fi hotspot.

Why Go

Bataan is an excellent ecotourism destination that rarely sees tourists even if it is very close to Manila. The peninsula offers a lot of lessons in ongoing environmental and heritage conservation as well as the lessons of history and humanity. For those who swing by and want a quick yet meaningful getaway from Manila, Bataan is a very good option for weekend travelers.

Best Time to Visit

While generally Bataan is a good destination the whole year round, generally avoid the Holy Week season around March and April to avoid large crowds, you may however, schedule your trip around the months when festivals are held. Be sure to check the local weather to be sure especially if you plan to trek the mountains. You may also coordinate with the local tourism office and the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines for the best times to spot the migratory birds if you plan to go birding. Turtle hatchlings are released into the sea usually in a festival around the last week of November so you may contact the Pawikan Conservation Center as well for that information. Mobile phone signal is quite choppy in Nagbalayong, Morong where the conservation center is located so you may have to contact the Bataan Tourism Office. You can look for the Provincial Tourism Officer Ceasar Cuayson or any of his staff (tourism_bataan@yahoo.com) for additional assistance.

Where to Stay

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There is not a dearth of places to stay while in Bataan. You may check out these places that we went and visited which seem to cater more to big conference type events.

St. Gabriel Hotel and Resort in Pilar (www.stgabriel-hotelandresort.com) has a log cabin inspired architecture mashed with other influences, the kids would love the swimming pools and the well appointed rooms. Like St. Gabriel Hotel and Resort, Raven Resort & Log Cabin in Abucay (www.ravenresort.com.ph) is also log cabin inspired with many pools that the children would love and is also perfect for huge family reunions or company seminars or team-building activities. Other resorts that are perfect for these kinds of groups are La Vista Inland Resort and the Crown Royale Hotel both in Balanga (www.crownroyale.com) and Vista Venice Resort (+63.916.6737958/Marian de Leon) in Morong another inland resort with pools and great views of the surrounding lush hills of Morong. For a more complete list of accommodations in Bataan, visit: tourism.bataan.gov.ph/accomodation.html. In our case, we stayed in rather austere but comfortable lodgings at the Pawikan Conservation Center. You may contact them through the details listed on our Pawikan Conservation Center article.

Where & What to Eat

Sinigang na Manok sa Ayo
Photo by Dave Ryan

Aside from the famed smoked fish called tinapa, tuyo (dried fish) and bagoong (fermented shrimp paste), Bataan is probably best known for its own version of the classic Southeast Asian sour soup, Sinigang na Manok sa Ayo. Ayo leaves are used to flavor this kind of Sinigang and chicken is best used as meat for this dish. The result is a sweetish sour version of the Sinigang, quite peculiar to the types we have had before. You may try this dish at the Joyous Resort and Restaurant (www.joyousresort.com/) in Balanga who gladly prepared this dish for us upon request.

Nightlife

Bataan’s nightlife is concentrated in the many resorts all over the province. While relatively modest compared with the glitz and glamour of neighboring Manila, Bataan offers a sincere respite from the drudgery of city living.

My to do List

1. Visit the Pawikan Conservation Center. Donate! *
2. Admire the panoramic vistas from the viewing gallery of the Dambana ng Kagitingan..**
3. Spot migratory birds at the bird-watching sites in Balanga City.*
4. Buy a backpack (PhP 1500) from the Made in Mariveles, Bataan! We did and we liked it!
5. Chill out at Sibul Spring.**
6. Taste the uniquely Bataan specialty Sinigang sa Ayo at Joyous .*
7. Visit the many historical markers in the peninsula.**
8. Stroll around the stunning estate of Ciudad Acuzar.*
9. Hit the trail and climb Mt. Natib. **
10. Cool down in the many waterfalls of the province. **
11. Walk the hanging bridge in Morong.
12. Go mountain-biking! **
13. Check out the Dragon Fruit farm (Contact the Bataan Tourism Office for this).
14. Sun by the beach at the exclusive Anvaya Cove in Morong.
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Make sure you wear a working life-vest when swimming in bodies of water!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock.

Getting There

Getting Around Balanga
Photo by Dave Ryan

Bataan is now made more accessible via the Subic Clark Tarlac Expressway (SCTEX) and Northern Luzon Expressway (NLEX). There are buses running direct to Balanga and Mariveles through Genesis Buses. Bataan is about 124 kilometers away from Manila. From Olongapo City, you can also take the Victory Liner Buses. Tricycles and jeepneys are the primary modes of transport around Bataan. There was a quicker way via a ferry from the CCP terminal to the port in Orion but the service was discontinued. By air, you may go through the Diosdado Macapagal International Airport in Clark, Pampanga or through the Ninoy Aquino International Airport Terminals in Manila and make the requisite land transfers.

My first attempt at Pork Adobo
Photo by Scott Allford

The most common Filipino dish actually has Spanish roots. And every household in the country has its own version. Of course I’m talking about Adobo. This mix of bay leaves, vinegar, and soy sauce comes in so many different varieties and variations it’s impossible to list them all here. Out of the main three (Pork, Chicken, and Squid Adobo) Pork Adobo would have to be my favourite. Every kitchen has its own spin on this dish and you’ll be able to taste them all over the Philippines. In my house we do a gourmet version and add muscovado (raw sugar), Worcestershire Sauce, rosemary and thyme. So delicious!

Ilocos Norte Empanada
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Heading to Northern Luzon, I had heard about the delicious taste of Empanadas in Ilocos Norte and was not let down. Inside is a mixture of egg, shredded vegetables and longganiza inside deep fried thin pastry pockets. The best thing to complement an Ilocos Norte Empanada is to dip it in a little Sukang Iloco (Ilocos vinegar), the taste is amazing. The best places to get your Empanadas are at Dap-ayan in Laoag City and Glory’s Empanada in Batac City, Ilocos Norte.

Bagnet
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

While in Ilocos do yourself a favour and pick up some Bagnet. This deep-fried pork is full of artery clogging goodness. It is possible to get bagnet in Manila but as it originates from Ilocos then that’s the most authentic (and cheapest) place to get some.

While still in the far north of Luzon, I would like to mention the delicious Pinikpikan chicken dish you can find in Sagada, Mountain Province. However, for this dish, the chicken is beaten with a stick to bring blood to the surface and apparently improve the flavour. I had already eaten Pinikpikan before I fully understood how the meal was prepared and felt really sorry for eating my delicious lunch.

Boneless Bangus
Photo by lizza22

After enjoying the tastes of Ilocos you can continue south through La Union to the province of Pangasinan. Famous for the Hundred Islands this province is also famous for its food, the best of which has to be Broiled Boneless Bangus. Bangus (Milkfish) is the national fish of the Philippines, it’s not an overpowering fishy taste and not too heavy. In Pangasinan they can fry up some bangus for you that is so delicious that it will be a meal you won’t soon forget. The crispy fish breaks apart and melt in your mouth and is a true delight in every bite. There are many good places to pick up some broiled Boneless Bangus in Pangasinan, but a good place we stumbled across was right by the departure point to the Hundred Islands National Park at Lucap wharf. Before you leave Pangasinan don’t forget to buy the local sticky rice and coconut treat called Tupig. It’s kind of like the Bounty bars we get in Australia without the chocolate.

Sizzling Sisig
Photo by d2digital

Heading south-west another famous dish you will find in many places in Central Luzon is Sisig. Sisig is made from parts of a pig’s head and liver, soaked in vinegar and then seasoned with calamansi (native lime) and chilli. This delicious dish in its current style, was invented in Angeles City, Pampanga back in 1974 by Lucia Cunanan. So the best place to get a good taste of this tasty treat is at Aling Lucing’s restaurant in Angeles City, Pampanga. Either that or you can attend the annual Sisig Festival held in Pampanga in December.

Buko Pie
Photo by (o.0)

South of Manila in the Province of Laguna you will come across the delicious Buko Pie. Every time I pass through this province I have to pick up at least one. It is buko (coconut meat) strips in a pie. Not overly sweet or too savoury it is the perfect after dinner treat. The best place to get your Buko Pie from is the numerous Collette’s roadside stores. There are other brands but I think Collette’s are the best.

Bulalo
Photo by emilgp

Next to Laguna is the province of Batangas and here you can find the delicious Bulalo. This delicious beef, bone marrow and vegetable soup will satiate any hunger (also good cure for a hangover as I discovered once). You can find Bulalo in many different restaurants and malls across the Philippines but the best place is Leslie’s in Tagaytay, Batangas. There are other branches of Leslie’s where you can also pick up a huge serving of this dish for a good price.

Bicol Express
Photo by vancouvergirl

Heading over to Southeast Luzon you’ll come to the Bicol region. And the number one must have meal to have here is Bicol Express. Rumoured to be named from the train journey between Manila and Bicol this dish is made from coconut milk, shrimp paste or stockfish, onion, pork, garlic with a generous portion of spicy chillies and is slightly Malaysian in taste, but better. Sadly, you may have to search far and wide to find a good version of this famous dish. We found a really good one at Mrs. Doyet Garcia’s Lutong Bahay, a small eatery on Mercedes Road in Daet, Camarines Norte. Also while you’re in Bicol don’t forget to pick up some super yum Pili nuts from any of the roadside stalls.

After travelling from North Luzon right down into Southeastern Luzon and eating these delectable dishes along the way you will have gotten a good snapshot of the amazing tastes this island has to offer. Although there are more dishes I could mention this is a good start for any traveler and I don’t want to spoil your surprise when you discover other mouthwatering meals along the way.

Camarines Norte

Camarines Norte Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Things to Bring
• Getting There

Virtually underrated and rarely visited by most travelers, Camarines Norte hides its spectacular secrets of undiscovered caves, exquisite and unspoiled postcard-perfect beaches and rich coral gardens, promising dive sites and world-class surfing, elegant looking bays that open into the Pacific, misty mountains and charming towns throbbing with Bicolano warmth and hospitality – all of this under a veneer of quiet, genteel simplicity.

A

bout 7-8 hours by bus southeast of Metro Manila, the province of Camarines Norte often serves as one of the main gateways to the Bicol Region. And most often, to most travelers, it often just serves as that – another mere stopover to the other destinations in the region. For most of Bicol which is just about getting used to the idea of tourism, Camarines Norte tends to get overlooked by travelers to the recently popular wakeboarding in Pili and island hopping in the Survivor islands of Camarines Sur, the perfect cone volcano of Mayon in Albay and the whale sharks of Sorsogon. Of course never mind that the wet and wild Pacific frontier province of Catanduanes is also home to one of the most famous international surf breaks called the Majestics. Where does this leave Camarines Norte then?

Calaguas, Camarines Norte
Photo by Melvic Briñas

Spanish explorer Juan de Salcedo marched into Camarines Norte after subduing Taytay, Cainta, Laguna, and Tayabas. Obsessed with the stories of gold mines in the area, he visited the towns of Paracale and Mambulao (now called Jose Panganiban). Later on, when Francisco de Sande took over as the new Spanish Governor General of the Philippine Islands, the wave of the Hispanic influence in the region started to be felt as he established a permanent garrison in Naga (called Nueva Caceres then) to repulse Muslim and Chinese pirates raiding the area. Prior to the arrival of the Spaniards, Camarines Norte had towns like Daet, Capalonga, Mabulao, Indan (now called Vinzons) already flourishing but Paracale was the crowning jewel because of its gold mines.

The history of Camarines Norte is inextricably linked to that of its southern counterpart. From 1573-1829, the two Camarines provinces was only known as one political unit – Ambos Camarines. And after years of splits, reunification and more separation and more unions which eventually led to the final segregation of March 3, 1919 when American Governor General F.B. Harrison separated Camarines Norte from Camarines Sur and later appointed Don Miguel R. Lukban as its first Governor. . At present, the province has 12 towns – Basud, Capalonga, Daet, Jose Panganiban, Labo, Mercedes, Paracale, San Lorenzo Ruiz, San Vicente, Sta. Elena, Talisay and Vinzons.

We didn’t have any high expectations then when we rode the bus all the way to Daet, (the provincial capital) from the Camarines Sur capital Naga. We were on a rusty and rickety mini-bus with no air-conditioning, and dirty floors – although we really didn’t mind the two young girls behind us singing presumably all of what seems to be an entire album of the pop singing group Pussycat Dolls. From Naga it was 2-3 hours by our bus. We finally got into Daet around 8PM and a local restaurateur whom we met on the bus whisked us to the city center as the bus station was too dark and a tad unsafe (according to her). Contrary to what a popular guide book was saying, we actually found the capital town quite charming (save for the thousands of tricycles – Daet has gained the notoriety of having the most number of tricycles in the country). At night, rows and rows of street food stalls line its main drags and it was quite fun to go around and have our yummy fill of Filipino street food. We reserved our initial comments for the town until daylight the following morning to see if we still had the same vibe of the town. And still, we found Daet as charming as it was at night: a buzzing beehive of small-town activity.

Being the provincial center, most of the province’s hub of commercial, political, religious and educational activity is in the town of Daet. Whilst it is true that it seemed like the town was swarming with tricycles, it still did maintain that provincial and charming feel that we had experienced the night before when we arrived. The people were generally friendly and warm. The first Jose Rizal monument that was ever built was built in Daet which stands at the corner of Magallanes and Justo Lukban streets which faces the Daet Municipal Hall. This monument was erected in 1898 in honor of the Philippine National Hero and consists of a three-tiered stone pylon with a square base supporting a triangle in two stages, the last one tapering to a point. It was believed that the foundation was made of mortars and boulders from the Old Spanish Jail where many Filipino patriots died, further magnifying its historical and cultural significance. Lt. Col. Ildefonso Alegre and Lt. Col. Antonio Sanz of the Philippine Revolutionary Army initiated the construction which was eventually inaugurated on December 20, 1898.

A few meters away from the Rizal monument is a wall honoring the brave sons of Camarines Norte who died fighting the Spaniards during the country’s fight for its independence. With these interesting monuments, we kind of found the area not very carefully maintained despite its great significance. Aside from monuments, Camarines Norte folks are quite proud of their Provincial Capitol whose 12 columns represent the 12 towns of the province. Whilst in the Provincial Complex, don’t miss the Museo Bulawan which provides a window into the province’s rich history and culture. In Vinzons town, the Baroque-style, coral-stone façade St. Peter the Apostle Church is considered to be the oldest church in the Bicol Region whilst the stone church of the Our Lady of Candelaria (Our Lady of Candles) merits a visit especially during its feast day which is every 2nd of February, Shrines to local heroes – Wenceslao Q. Vinzons Shrine (Vinzons, Camarines Norte) and Jose Maria Panganiban Shrine (Jose Panganiban, Camarines Norte) – are also a must visit.

Tourism Paradise Philippines Writers: Scott Allford and Ryan Buaron surfing in Bagasbas
Photo by Melvic Briñas

Another top-drawer to Daet is of course the world-class surf action off the wide and long gray sand beach of Bagasbas (sand break) which opens out to the Pacific Ocean. Locals claim that Bagasbas is the real cradle of Philippine surfing – of course that is still open to debate. One thing is for sure, we were not disappointed by the waves of Bagasbas. Certified surf instructors as well are available and boards are for rent at competitive prices. Look out for rip tides though as the place was quite notorious for them as well – we didn’t seen any that time, but if you are on your own, make sure to be on your guard. Kite-boarding, another growing sport, is another popular activity in the area. In February 2009, Bagasbas hosted the First International Kiteboarding Competition in the region. Having the surfer ambience going on, Bagasbas has a very laidback feel, the shacks of restaurants/karaoke bars and tiny backpacker resorts line a tiny strip fronting the beach. Save for the loud singing from the karaoke bars, overall Bagasbas was an awesome place.

Malasugui Island
Photo by Ryan Buaron

Just on the San Miguel Bay and about 20-30 minutes (via Bagasbas) and 30-45 minutes (via Mercedes town) by motorboat are the gorgeous Mercedes Group of Islands. Composed of 7 islands, it was such a pleasant surprise how beauties like these have been kept from the national tourism spotlight for so long. First, there is the dramatic lighthouse on Canimog Island which is considered to be the oldest in the entire Bicol Region. Canimog Island also boasts of coral gardens, rich and teeming with huge and healthy coral growth and marine fauna. On several occasions hundreds of flying fish would do their aerial acrobatics around our boat while we were cruising along. By the lighthouse on Canimog (where you also camp), you will have such sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean, the beautiful cliffs and rock formations, as well as an eye on the thousands of huge bats literally hanging out in the island’s lush foliage.

Apuao Grande Island in the foreground, Apuao Pequeña on the background
Photo by Scott M.Allford

Next to the island of Canimog are the stunning islands of Apuao Pequeña and Apuao Grande (the two islands are connected by a white sand bar and you can actually walk between the two islands during low tide) whose long stretches of white sand beaches lined with pine-like agoho trees similar to the overrated Anawangin Cove in Zambales (only a million times better – cleaner, significantly less people, and definitely has a white sand beach). Apuao Grande used to be the home of once a high-end resort which fell into disrepair. Now, most of the villas are leased to many expatriates who decided to settle on the island. The coves of Canton Island also beg to be explored either by swimming, or rappelling. The rest of the islands – Malasugui, Caringo (Australians and Germans have been frequenting this island) and Quinapaguian all have white sand beaches, and beautiful sand bars and almost no tourists! Island-hopping is from PhP 1800-2000. Be responsible and demand a working life vest all the time.

Aside from the Mercedes Group of Islands, the Calaguas Group of Islands is slowly making its way to one of the most promising beach getaways in the Philippines and possibly around the world for its white sand and aquamarine colored waters. Currently, the island does not have any running water, no resorts, no toilet, and of course no electricity – which means, be prepared to camp out as a return daytrip by boat can cost a hefty PhP 6,000.00 at the latest rates – it’s really a cheaper option to gather your friends and camp out instead.

Our contact, the affable and extremely helpful Melvic Briñas (+63.909.2944444/ +63.922.2472111/ +63.906.5144444 melvicbrinas.multiply.com) organizes trips to the Calaguas Islands, Mercedes Group of Islands and Bagasbas (surfing and kite-boarding) area.

Another must-see island is the island of Quinamanucan which is 20-35 minutes by boat from Vinzons town. The island has spectacular wall dives with drop offs shooting up from 1000 meters down as well as having impressive underwater gardens that count stony, whip, soft corals, black corals and many others.

Back on the mainland, Camarines Norte has heaps of unexplored caves and mountains and waterfalls. 18 kilometers west of Daet is the Mananap Falls in San Vicente (requires a hike of 2 kilometers uphill) and the 70 feet tall Colasi Falls in Barangay Colas, Mercedes (one hour from Daet town centre by jeepney and 3 hours hike to the waterfalls). Other notable waterfalls in Camarines Norte are Pag-asa Falls, Binuan Falls, Maligaya Falls, Malatap Falls (almost equidistant from the towns of Labo, Jose Panganiban and Capalonga) as well as the Twin Falls near Sta. Elena town. 30 kilometers south of Daet in the town of Mercedes, you can also find the soda spring in Barangay Lanot.
Amongst the local festivals, the biggest is the Bantayog Festival where the twelve municipalities of the province celebrate the foundation of Camarines Norte which features the various practices, folklores, and beliefs and as the name suggest (Bantayog means monument in Tagalog), it centers on the first Rizal monument built and is commemorated around the dates running up to April 15th of every year. Activities include parades, sand sculpture contests, exhibits, fireworks display and fairs.

The Oldest Jose Rizal Monument
Photo by Ryan Buaron

Why Not Go

If you are on the lookout for classy hotels and efficient tourist infrastructure then Camarines Norte is sorely lacking in these factors. However, if you are out to laze around on a beach and you can do without the annoying touts or you want to explore rugged mountains, Camarines Norte is a great place for you.

Why Go

Camarines Norte is mostly off the traveler’s list mainly because of a dearth in local tourism promotion. This means that it is not overrun by hordes of tourists and you would have a good feel of the local culture and its many beautiful places not usually advertised widely. What it lacks in tourist numbers it makes up for with the numerous beautiful places that a person with the spirit of adventure would truly appreciate.

Best Time to Visit

Camarines Norte is a great year-round destination. During the typhoon season when the swells grow bigger in Bagasbas, it only means that it’s time to head out to surf. Otherwise, even during long weekends, the islands (at least at the time of this writing) rarely get any visitors even during notorious long weekends

Where to Stay

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There are heaps of places to stay in Daet and especially in Bagasbas. You may want to check out Surfer’s Dine-Inn in Bagasbas (PhP 800-PhP1,000 a night with A/C) with basic rooms either with A/C or with Fan rooms. For other places to stay, you may want to contact Melvic Briñas (+63.909.2944444/ +63.922.2472111/ +63.906.5144444 melvicbrinas.multiply.com) for more information or you may contact Camarines Norte Tourism Office at camarinesnorte_tourism@yahoo.com. Hotel prices in Daet ranges from PhP 600.00 to PhP 1,500.00 a night.

Surfers Dine-Inn, Bagasbas, Daet
Photo by Ryan Buaron

Where & What to Eat

What we missed in Camarines Sur was more than made up for in Daet. The nice lady we met on the bus heard our quest for the great Bicolano fares and was more than happy to oblige to treat us to the authentic and absolutely delectable Bicol Express, Tuna Express, Sinantol (dish made from santol fruit), Laing and Kinunot. Heavy use of coconut cream and chili peppers are basically the trademarks of Bicolano cuisine. Mrs. Doyet Garcia’s Lutong Bahay, a small eatery on Mercedes Road in Daet whipped up the best Bicol fare we ever had in living memory. If you are ever in the area, contact her (Doyet Garcia- +63.928.5011821) in advance so she can prepare these dishes at very, very good prices. Our most favorite among the dishes is of course the Bicol Express and Tuna Express whilst we had a dilemma with the Kinunot. Not because of its taste, but what it was actually. We were informed that this mashed meat dish mixed with coconut cream and chili was from a hammerhead shark which even after several reassurances from well-meaning locals, was still a little bit difficult to swallow considering that hammerheads which are abundant in the San Miguel Bay (off Bagasbas), are actually an endangered species. In other versions of the dish, Kinunot is made out of stingrays instead hopefully none of them are endangered too (there are at least 5 stingray species that are currently listed as endangered). Overall though, we’d want to take a trip to Daet if only to have another go of Mrs. Garcia’s super yummy Bicol Express!

The Fire Down Below, Yummy Bicol Fare: Tuna Express, Sinantol, Bicol Express, Laing.
Thanks Mrs. Doyet Garcia for these yummy treats!
Photo by Ryan Buaron

Another great place for good eats is Alvino’s right in Daet town, which has more mainstream Filipino choices and some more treatment of the Filipino style of eating. Set meals are wrapped neatly in banana leaves and paper and the presence of disposable plastic gloves means that the meals are eaten by hand.

The diner at Surfer’s Dine-Inn in Bagasbas was as expected a little overpriced and the La Paz Batchoy was far from authentic.

Another must-try in Camarines Norte is the Camarines Norte Queen pineapple as the province cultivates this pineapple variety extensively. The province was ranked 4th in the entire Philippines in terms of area planted.

Nightlife

Camarines Norte nightlife centers in its capital town Daet which includes laidback cafes and restaurants. A similar tropical island vibe can be gleaned on Bagasbas, a stretch of tiny resorts and restaurants and karaoke bars catering mostly to locals and visiting surfers.

My to do List

1. Take a bottle of beer or two and go island hopping!**
2. Explore the caves of Canton Island.**
3. Laze around the sand bars of Apuao Pequeña and Apuao Grande.*
4. Take photos! *
5. Visit the oldest Rizal monument ever built.*
6. Check out the food stalls of the Daet Streetfood Night Market.*
7. Surf at Bagasbas.*
8. Hike and take a dip at the Colasi Falls.**
9. Camp out at the Calaguas Group of Islands.**
10. Take a slice of the famed Camarines Norte pineapples.**
11. Dive off the Quinamanucan Island.**
12. Chill out at the lighthouse on Canimog Island.**
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning – Learn to spot rip tides and make sure you wear a working life-vest!
3. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
4. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on a sunblock. (see a more complete list below for island camp-outs).

Things to Bring

1. Appropriate and comfortable beach attire
2. Hat to protect from the sun.
3. Tents (unless you come with a tour group, our contact Melvic has tents too)
4. Sunglasses
5. Sleeping Bags
6. Flash lights/torches
7. First Aid Kit
8. Camera with ample battery power/memory cards.
9. Waterproof pouches or Ziplocs.
10. Moist towels and rolls of tissue paper
11. Huge garbage bag to protect gear while on boat as well as to put your trash back whilst on the island.
12. Waterproof jacket/raincoat
13. Snorkelling gear.

Getting There

Camarines Norte can be reached by land travel from Manila by buses. Amihan (Daet -054 7213787; Manila (Pasay) – 02 8543735, 02 3855025) , Superlines (Daet – 054 5712225; Manila (Cubao) 02 4143319), and Philtranco (Daet- 054 7212030 , 054 7214350; Manila (Pasay) – 02 8515420, Manila (Cubao) 02 7227567)- buses ply the Manila-Daet route and vice versa.

Alternatively, one can fly into Camarines Sur, through the Naga Airport in Pili (45 minutes ride). Zest Air, Philippine Airlnes and Cebu Pacific from Manila and vice-versa and then it takes about 2-3 hours by bus/van from Naga to Daet. SEAIR (http://flyseair.com) used to fly the Manila-Daet route but this has proved to be seasonal, check out their website if they have flights for that route on the dates that you will be visiting. A more comfy ride through the Philippine National Railways is set to commence at the end of 2009 as well (+63.2.2549772) but can be a very, very slow way to reach Camarines Sur. If you are driving, make sure that you pick up a map and follow the scenic but sometimes hair-raising Pan-Philippine Highway.

Boat rental from Vinzons-Calaguas (day trip or not with a tour group- 2 hours boat ride) – PhP 6,000.00 and jeepney fare from Daet-Vinzons is PhP 15.00 per person; Paracale-Calaguas (1 ½ hours boat ride) by van is PhP 55.00. Tricycles in Daet is about PhP 7.00 per head for the first kilometer.

Camarines Sur

Camarines Sur Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

From the deeply religious Bicol region, Camarines Sur is the Philippines’ newest and fast rising tourism star with coasts and islands that greet the traveler with gorgeous limestone formations, secluded white sand beaches as well as a throbbing adventure sports scene that makes the rest of Asia stand up and take notice.

About 10-12 hours bus ride (or a 45 minute plane ride) away from Manila is the province of Camarines Sur, formerly known as Tierra de Camarines – a Spanish-founded settlement. The name was derived from camaronchones or camarines, Spanish for a warehouse/barn which referred to the small nipa/bamboo huts used by the locals of the area. Spanish Governor General Guideo de Lavezares called Camarines Sur as Los Camarines after finding a great number of camarins or rice granaries all over the area.

Wakeboarding at CamSur Watersports Complex, Pili, Camarines Sur
Photo from Flickr

The Bicol region was subjugated by the Spaniards into two portions – the southern portion (Partido de Ibalon) comprises everything south of the town of Camalig (in Albay), Catanduanes, Sorsogon, Masbate and present-day Partido (an area around the Caramoan Peninsula) and the northern portion (Partido de Camarines) includes Camalig town and the rest of the towns of Camarines Sur and Camarines Norte. In 1829, Partido de Camarines was divided into Camarines Norte and Camarines Sur (and like a lot of the provinces and regions in the Philippines underwent annexations, more partitions, fusions and re-partitions until the two Camarines provinces (then called Ambos Camarines)) had their present boundaries finally outlined in March 19, 1919 by a decree of the First Philippine legislature.

As with the rest of the country – it experienced several upheavals and figured in several prominent national and international conflicts – the Philippine revolution, the American invasion, and the Japanese occupation during the last World War.

While Pili has been the provincial capital since June 6, 1955 – the city of Naga is more known. Naga was the former capital of the province and was founded in 1573. It was then called Nueva Caceres- named after one of the provinces of Spain and Naga was considered as one of the five royal cities of the colony.

Before the recent frenzy of tourism in the province – Naga was known as the seat of Bicol’s most famous, revered and supposedly miraculous religious icon – Our Lady of Peñafrancia. As the story goes, a lot of miracles were received by Father Miguel de Cobarrubias (originally from San Martin de Castañar in Spain) who strived to bring this faith to the people. As the image was sculpted and finished – blood was used to color the statue (as was the customs of that time) and also served as a preservative – a dog was caught, killed and blood was used as paint- and the dog’s body was thrown into a river nearby. Seeing this, Father Cobarrubias apparently remarked that the Virgin would work her first miracle in Nueva Caceres, and instantly the dog was said to have started swimming and upon reaching the river banks ran fast to the house of its owner. News of the miracle spread like wildfire and instantly the patroness was famous.

The image was no less than controversial in recent times – because of its age and story – it was deemed so highly valuable that on August 15, 1981 it was stolen from the Peñafrancia Church. A massive search ensured and finally the image was rightfully returned to its rightful place a little over a year later. The image can now be found at the Basilica Minore at Calle Balatas in Naga City and remains to be the regions Ina (Mother).

Our Lady of Peñafrancia
Photo by Dave Ryan

Whilst Camarines Sur was traditionally known for the Our Lady of Peñafrancia (celebrated every third Sunday of September) – it is also known for other religious devotions – in Barangay Sta. Salud in Calabanga town – thousands of pilgrims do the “pagsongko” or a promise of walking a twelve-kilometer road (if the devotee is from Naga) during late night Maundy Thursday or the early morning of Good Friday to visit another miraculous image of Jesus in repose in his tomb known as Amang Hinulid.

Buhi town (which is also famous for having the smallest fish in the world called sinarapan) is also known for its Passion Plays that date back as early as 1866 where the life, passion and death of Christ are either recited or chanted during Lenten season. Meanwhile during the month of May, the Aurora is also practiced where a small procession of about 20-30 people (including children) sing the songs of prayer and penance (alabasyon) dedicated to the Virgin Mary whilst holding lit candles and torches. A small andas or altar with the statue of Virgin Mary is bedecked with crepe paper flowers and carried along with the procession.

Another distinct cultural practice in the province is the Pantomina which is an artistic courtship dance. While a newlywed dances the Pantomina, the padrinos (godfathers), the taglalaki, the tagbabaye and other relatives throw money on the floor in front of the dancing couple. This practice of throwing money is called the bitor. A more modern version of the dance makes do without the bitor, instead money is pinned to the clothes of the married couples and in some cases, the newlyweds give their relatives and other guests wine to drink and are given gifts or money in return. This is called the tagay.

Aside from the deep religiosity and fervor of the people of Camarines Sur, the province has successfully established itself as one of the major centres of adventure sports, not only in the Philippines but within the Asia-Pacific region, with the opening of the largest wakeboarding centre in Asia – the CamSur Watersports Complex (Please check their website for rates and accommodations – http://www.camsurwatersportscomplex.com/) This sprawling wakeboarding facility is located within the Provincial Capitol Complex in Cadlan, Pili, Camarines Sur. CWC as it more known, also has waterskiing and wakeskating facilities and has recently hosted Ironman 70.3 – the first time the Philippines has ever hosted such an internationally recognized triathlon event.

On Sabitang Laiya Island, Caramoan Peninsula
Photo by Dave Ryan

Like many parts of the Philippines, Camarines Sur also boasts of stretches of beautiful and largely unexplored coastlines which mean miles and miles of beaches, coves and staggering rock formations, the most famous of which is the Caramoan Peninsula National Park. Caramoan Peninsula captured international attention when several editions of the reality series Survivor were filmed in the area- Survivor France, Bulgaria, Israel and Serbia filmed in the islands of Caramoan Peninsula. The peninsula is famous for its dramatic limestone karst formations, white sand beaches, coves, as well as sandbars which is pretty reminiscent of Coron in the Calamianes Islands in Northern Palawan – heavily promoted by the local government – Caramoan is still to recover from the initial shock of the growing influx of tourists in the past two years when the peninsula was suddenly plucked out of relative obscurity and thrust into the Philippine tourism limelight. Kayaking around the islets is a favorite pastime amongst visitors as well as the requisite island hop and while most islands are open, some of these are closed off to the public once there is an ongoing filming of Survivor. The local government apparently franchised the area for Survivor filming for 4 years. The more popular islands are Lahuy, Matukad, Cotivas, Lajos and Sabitang Laiya, the last one famous for its triangular shape whose two sides offer a long stretch of cream-colored sandy beach and relatively shallow waters. In Paniman, the two coves Little Gota and Big Gota are some of the main attractions, as well as the limestone islands of the Malarad Island Group.

Besides Caramoan Peninsula National Park, other attractive beaches and coastal sceneries in Camarines Sur include Animasola Island in Balatan with its funky rock formations, Atulayan Island in Sangay made famous by its rare shells and ivory-colored beach (this was also the setting of the French-Italian movie “Mutiny in the South Seas”), Daruanak Island off the coast of Poñgol and Balogo beaches in Pasacao which are home to starfishes, sea urchins, sea anemones and other marine life and Aguirangan Island in Presentacion with scuba diving and snorkeling opportunities in its waters – gorgeous coral formations that stretch over a kilometer on its eastern side.

For those who love mountains and forests, one can check out the imposing Mount Isarog (Bicol’s second highest volcano at 1966 metres)– but currently inactive) whose two big waterfalls, Tuaguiti and Bulalacao and the smaller Kawa-kawa in Tigaon make the hike more than worth it. Make sure you also check out Nabuntulan Falls and Malabsay Falls. Contact a mountaineering outfit before you embark on a hike, permits can be collected at the Department of Environment and Natural Resources at Panganiban Drive in Naga (near the City Hall Complex). Mount Isarog at Panicuason, has natural springs as well – two hot and three cold. Other waterfalls include – Nalalata Falls (Bula), Bolanogan Falls (Lagonoy), and Itbog Twin Falls (Buhi).

For the avid spelunker, one should not miss the Kalupnitan Caves in Ilibmanan with their numerous stalactite and stalagmite formations. The Kalupnitan Caves are also home to thousands of bats. In San Jose, a series of caverns and a 300 meter canopy that goes all the way into the Calinigan Mountains is Adiangan Caves’ attraction. The caves also have stalactites, stalagmites and huge pillars and a ceiling with dripstone that looked like suspended waterfalls. If you wanna be close to nature but do not have time to leave Naga, you may visit the Naga City Ecology Park (http://nagaecopark.com), a 4.4 hectare park which features several theme gardens and a maze.

Curious stuff to check out is the Boa-boahan Festival in Nabua every May 2 where a reenactment of the 13th century pagan ritual of offering chains of coconut embryos called boa to deities to ensure a prosperous year ahead. If Pisa has a leaning tower so does the town of Bombon. On the other hand, Lake Buhi churns out the sinarapan- the world’s smallest fish which are about 3-4 millimeters long. 1 spoonful of these minute fish contains literally a thousand of them- so much that a famous dish called Thousand Fish Omelet was made of these tiny fish.

Why Not Go

With the recent boom in local tourism, Camarines Sur is grappling with an overwhelming number of tourists, more than what its existing infrastructure can handle. This is now being addressed slowly by the local stakeholders as more roads are being built or rehabilitated and proper facilities are being built to address this huge influx of tourists and travelers coming to the province.

Why Go

One of the islands near the Caramoan Peninsula, the outline of the world’s most beautiful volcano, Mount Mayon in the background
Photo by lizza22

For the avid aquatic sportsman, the beach bum, the travelling gourmand or the pilgrim, Camarines Sur is a tightly packed travel destination with exciting opportunities and a largely unexplored province.

Best Time to Visit

Skip the CWC and even Caramoan Peninsula or even most areas during long weekends. The hordes of eager wakeboard enthusiasts means that there is a long waitlist before you can get in the water. The more popular islands also get a lot of visitors during long weekends in the Caramoan Peninsula. Best time to go is when you take time off from work and visit the parks during the week or on weekends that don’t have any holidays nearby. While the summer months of March-May are the best time to go, this is also the worst time to visit with so many people going to Camarines Sur.

Where to Stay

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For some people, Naga City is just a mere stopover for sojourns to other parts of the province. The best-value accommodations that one can find, however, would be at the CWC (http://www.camsurwatersportscomplex.com/) itself- with its wide range of accommodations at reasonable prices and facilities. The area is also pretty close to the airport as well- and the sports complex also offers shuttle services. For other accommodations, you may check out – Camarines Sur Government website- http://www.camarinessur.gov.ph/?page=3&pid=1.

For the Caramoan Peninsula, most accommodations (mostly local residences converted into hostels/hotels) are at Centro and Tawog while the pricier Gota Village Resort is on the beach itself (and usually closed every time there is another reality show filming in the area.

Where & What to Eat

Bicol fare is characterized by a heavy use of coconut cream and a copious amount of chilies – a culinary tradition that sets the region apart from the rest of the country but has a strangely similar affinity with the Malay culinary traditions. Try Langkang Palusag which is made of langka (breadfruit), bangut, garlic and onions in coconut milk, boiled, and simmered. Or the ever popular, Bicol Express named after the Philippine National Railway that goes through the Bicol heartland. Bicol Express is made of balaw (small shrimps) with a bit of ground pork and the notoriously spicy – siling labuyo- probably the spiciest chillies in the world. Diced lobster meat mixed with young coconut meat, taro leaves, lemongrass, ground garlic and diced onions in coconut milk makes the dish called Pinangat. Ginuygoy, meanwhile, is made of taro leaves, flavored with dinaelan and seasoned with lemon juice. If you are in the area, also try Inon-on – saltwater fish cooked in vinegar, lemon juice, garlic, onions and oil; Ginaring – roast skewered fish called talusog; and of course Gulay na Natong or commonly called Laing- taro leaves with chillies, and sometimes ground pork.

The problem with finding authentic Bicolano fare in Camarines Sur, and specifically in Naga- is that you really have to look hard for it. Most restaurants in Camarines Sur serve mainstream Filipino dishes which can be a bit disappointing. Your best bet is to find a local, unassuming eatery to find a more authentic version of these dishes. In the more touristy areas, a more watered down version of course is available. If in doubt, ask a local or your hotel concierge to point you in the direction of the best restaurant to eat traditional Bicolano dishes. We tried to do that in Naga and we just failed to find a good place to eat these dishes.

Should we forget Pili Nuts? Of course not. It is a sacrilege to skip out these deliciously addicting nuts that Camarines Sur is known for.

Pili Nuts :We forgot to take a photo of a full container of Pili Nuts – they were just so yummy we couldn’t resist munching on them before we took a photo
Photo by Dave Ryan

Our culinary adventures of course were not altogether a total failure. We had the chance to try Bicol’s take on the common Pizza at CWC- it was named, well, Bicolano Pizza (about PhP250 if we can remember it correctly). It is a thin crust pizza topped with Bicol Express, and Laing. I was very apprehensive at first, but it was love at first bite. The taste was just right, quirky yet familiar, with the flavors of Bicol effectively captured in that warm plate of ultimate yummy goodness. This is definitely a must-try for anyone visiting Camarines Sur.

Nightlife

The province’s epicenter, when it comes to local nightlife, is the city of Naga with its different cafes and bars spread throughout the city. Getting around is a problem, however, if you do not own a car. The city is too spread out and lacks an obvious city centre and mostly tricycles ply the routes. Alternatively, most visitors will probably congregate at the CWC – whose restaurant and bar are fairly well-stocked and capable of handling a significant amount of guests.

My to do List

1. Wakeboard at CamSur Watersports Complex.**
2. Try the Bicolano Pizza.*
3. Munch on a bag of candied Pili Nuts.*
4. Island Hop in the Caramoan Peninsula.**
5. Feel the Bicolano religiosity at the Our Lady of Peñafrancia Shrine. **
6. Get lost in the maze at the Naga Ecology Park.*
7. Soak in the hot-springs on Mount Isarog.*
8. Feel the island vibe at Pasacao, Camarines Sur’s answer to Brazil’s Copacabana.**
9. Marvel at the numerous stalagmites and stalactites in Kalupnitan and Adiangan Caves.
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Bicolano Pizza
Photo by Dave Ryan

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Drowning, wear your life-vests at all times during island hopping.
3. Rip tides.
4. UV Rays, wear proper sun protection to avoid UV rays.

Getting There

If you are not coming with a tour group, Camarines Sur (through the Naga Airport in Pili) can be accessed via plane (45 minutes ride). Zest Air, Philippine Airlnes and Cebu Pacific from Manila and vice-versa. Buses also ply the Manila-Naga route – Isarog, Peñafrancia, RSL, ECSI and Philtranco buses serve this route. There are also mini-vans and buses servicing Naga to other points of Bicol though it’s Central Bus Terminal. A more comfy ride through the Philippine National Railways is set to commence at the end of 2009 as well (+63.2.2549772) but can be a very, very slow way to reach Camarines Sur. If you are driving, make sure that you pick up a map and follow the scenic but sometimes hair-raising Pan-Philippine Highway.

Sabang “Port”. Passengers are carried to the boat going to Guijalo
Photo by Dave Ryan

Laguna

Laguna Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Not only the proud birthplace of the Philippine National Hero, Laguna plays host to a wealth of natural wonders and cultural treasures from its hot springs, scenic jungle-clad canyons, picturesque waterfalls to its wonderful and sought-after craftsmanship of the finest embroidery, wood-carvings ,and footwear in the country.

Just 30 kilometers southeast of Manila, Laguna is a veritable treasure trove of cultural, historical and natural gems. It almost completely surrounds the Laguna de Bay (Laguna Lake), one of Southeast Asia’s largest lakes, thus, its name derived from the Spanish word “Lago” which meant Lake. It is also the first province south of the bustling National Capital Region with the Ninoy Aquino International Airport about 1-1 & 1/2 hours away from the industrial estates of Calamba.

Paete’s Wood Carving
Photo by d2digital

Like most of the rest of Luzon and the country – Laguna as well as its surrounding areas of Morong (Rizal), Tayabas (Quezon) and the Bicol Peninsula was Christianized as soon as the Spanish forces including the missionaries moved through the Philippines, evangelizing as early as 1578 when the first friars from the Franciscan orders arrived in Manila. In the succeeding years, the towns of Bay (the most populous and was the seat of the provincial government until it was moved to Pagsanjan), Caliraya, Nagcarlan, Liliw, Pila, Pagsanjan (the capital until it was finally moved to Santa Cruz), Santa Cruz (the current capital), Lumban, Siniloan, Majayjay, Pañgil, San Pablo.

Laguna was a hotbed of numerous historical events- it was the site of one of the most sanguine battle grounds and Filipino nationalist resistance so many times – the Chinese revolt in 1603, the British plundered its capital during the years of the British invasion from 1762 to 1764, the revolts against the Spanish cruelty, the defense against the onslaught of the American invaders, and guerrilla warfare waged against the Japanese. And why not? Laguna’s very own and much revered son, Jose Rizal, the Philippine National Hero – also a polymath, polyglot and leading reformist, came from one of its Ilustrado families of Calamba – was an immense inspiration not only to the nationalist movements in the Philippines but in the budding anti-colonial forces around the world as well.

The Rizal Shrine of Calamba (J.P. Rizal, Calamba City) – the ancestral home and birthplace of the Philippine National Hero (the house standing now was a replica of the original house that was burned down and rebuilt using funds contributed by Filipino schoolchildren around the country under the supervision of National Artist Juan Nakpil under the former President Elpidio Quirino’s Executive Order No. 145 in 1950. The house now is a repository of Rizal memorabilia with the rooms restored (one can spy a punkah, a wide and large Indian fan hanging above the dining table). The house was a typical bahay na bato, a stone house with Filipino, Spanish and Chinese influences with a large yard – typical of the more well-off Filipinos during those days. The house had been attacked by vandals but traces of that were nowhere to be found when we visited it in July of 2009. There is a small museum of Rizal memorabilia that houses contemporary Rizal-inspired art as well as other curious items like a skull as well as clothes worn by the National Hero himself including copies of his famous books, Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo. The last poem he wrote when he was still incarcerated in Fort Santiago in Intramuros prior to his execution in Luneta (now Rizal Park), Mi Ultimo Adios (My Last Farewell) is on display with both Tagalog and English translations.

Unfortunately, the office that oversees the shrine – National Historical Institute- committed one horrible, horrible mistake tantamount to sacrilege – they repainted the façade of the house in vomit green. The people of Calamba, and admirers of Philippine History and the National Hero were rightfully outraged of having turned the shrine into what some of the locals call – a house of avocado. We were perplexed as well- this wasn’t the original color of the house and the lame reason that the National Historical Institute was giving (and this was evident in signs around the museum- a very stupid excuse that since Rizal came from the word “ricial” which meant green field ready for harvest from the list of Spanish surnames – Catalogo Alfabetico de Apellidos (following the 1849 decree by Spanish Governor General Claveria of handing out surnames to Filipinos for tax and census purposes – that is why although Filipinos have Spanish-sounding surnames – they don’t necessarily have European blood which only about a minute 2% of the population can lay claim to. If you are a Filipino and have a surname found in the catalogue of surnames- chances are you do not have any European blood at all.).

Rizal Shrine’s Controversial New Look
Photo by Dave Ryan A. Buaron

Going back to the Shrine, of course, this infamy has garnered widespread violent reactions and remonstrations by people who were appalled at this monumental faux pas. According to the NHI’s chief apologist, NHI head and allegedly the main culprit behind the disgusting decision- Ambeth Ocampo (I was a fan of Ocampo before) said in his column- “the green hues are meant to honor the memory of the Rizal family and their way of life.” So if Jose Rizal’s last name happened to be “Arco Iris” which is Spanish for rainbow- is the National Historical Institute going to paint the house into an icon for the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgendered (LGBT) movement? Upon speaking to the curator, the NHI is now reconsidering to repaint the house to its original color. We will have to wait and see about that. As a tip, do not schedule your trips to the Rizal Shrine around December when preparations are rife for Rizal Day celebrations on 30 December as chances are the shrine would be closed off to visitors. The Shrine is open Tuesday to Saturday, 8:30 am to 12:00 nn and 1:00 pm to 4:30 pm. Entrance is Free. Cameras are allowed.

Continuing further southeast following the National Highway is the resort city of Los Baños- most notable for its various springs around the Pansol area – hot, cold and lukewarm water is the main tourist draw here and you will see heaps of resorts along the main drag between Calamba and Los Baños. Los Baños, which sits on the foothills of Mount Makiling in the south and Laguna de Bay in the north is also home to the Los Baños arm of the University of the Philippines and the International Rice Research Institute. UP Los Baños provides good access to some of Laguna’s natural sites. One can hire a jeepney (for PhP 500 – look for Romel- 09195747174; usually the trek up Mount Makiling is about PhP1,000- try to haggle) or you may take your four-wheel drive up one of Makiling’s slopes to head to the Makiling Rainforest Park (minimum entrance fees apply – visitors are discouraged to come up after 5PM) to its Mud Springs – a trek through the forest which is about 692 meters off the main road (which can be really rough going up). Although fenced off from the public, one can catch a good glimpse of the boiling and the steaming sulfuric mud – it is one of the few mud pots left on Mount Makiling – an inactive volcano. A mud pot is a type of hot spring that is formed when volcanic heat and sulfuric acids breaks down surrounding rocks into clay, the clay mixes with water that is very hot (about 80 degrees Celsius), very acidic and sulfurous with varying consistency and color. Camping is not allowed and people are advised to refrain from coming any closer to avoid incurring burn injuries.

Around the same area, the Flat Rocks waterfalls (374 Meters from the main road) on the same jungle trek) – a waterfall with giant rock boulders is quite a nice site to behold and with clean little pools to have your little private swim. However, make sure that you take a guide with you as the area is notorious for people losing their valuables to muggers. Makiling is a big mountain with few forest rangers going around. You may want to contact mountaineering groups in Manila or in UP Los Baños if you plan to head out and camp.

Mud Springs, Los Baños
Photo by Dave Ryan A. Buaron

Fancy an optical illusion? Head out to the Jamboree and observe what is called the Magnetic Hill which is actually just a short patch of road- you may try to put your car on this spot with the engine off and it would look like you are rolling up the road but actually you are going downhill. A lot of people actually come up to visit and stop by the place to witness this illusion and everyone in UP Los Baños seemed to know about it. Some try to pour water on this short road and watch water “magnetically” creep up the road.
Los Baños is also home to the Center for Philippine Raptors – a breeding center for Philippine Eagles- one of the world’s biggest, most beautiful and most endangered raptors, Hawks and other raptors, however, when we went there all the eagles had been released into the wild and plans are afoot of transferring the facility to Metro Manila.

One of the southern towns of Laguna, San Pablo City, one of the oldest in the country is known for its collection of 7 lakes- Lakes Malucan, Palakpakin/Palacpaquen, Yambo, Bunot, Pandin, Muhikap, Calibato, and Sampalok – the latter which is the biggest and the one closest to the city centre. There is a view deck near the city hall on the Dagatan Boulevard which affords a sweeping view of this serene, yet ordinary lake. Skip the overpriced lunches offered at the restaurants around the lake though. San Pablo City is also a jump-off point to treks to the nearby Mount Banahaw.

103 Kilometers southeast of Manila and about 30 minutes ride from San Pablo City is the town of Nagcarlan which is famous for its beautiful Spanish Underground Cemetery- the only one of its kind in the country. Built in 1851 by Fr. Vicente Velloc, a Franciscan missionary who became the town’s parish priest, the cemetery was a burial ground exclusively used for the Spanish friars as well as the town’s more esteemed citizens. The cemetery’s crypts were also used as a meeting place for Filipino revolutionaries and it was here that the Pact of Biak-na-Bato was first planned by Gen. Severino Taino (Maluningning Command) and Pedro Paterno in 1897. The cemetery is carefully being restored after decades and decades of vandalism (one can still see screaming remnants of names etched through its walls from as far back as the ‘70s. Much of the chapel’s wall paintings were almost gone and the remaining bits of the ceiling can still be seen in the original wood used. The Cemetery is considered a Philippine historical landmark and is open 8AM-4PM – Tuesday to Friday. Photography is allowed (without the use of flash) and must only be for personal use. Entrance is free.

Nagcarlan Underground Cemetery
Photo by Jem

Aside from the Spanish Underground Cemetery, another focal point of a visit to Nagcarlan is its Church built originally in 1583 out of light materials and then by brick and stone in 1752.

Moving further eastward from Nagcarlan is the pretty little town of Liliw with its romantic red-bricked church and the rows and rows of footwear shops that line its main street. Liliw is considered as the footwear capital of Laguna, where Imelda-clones, young and old alike can have their fill of beautiful, affordable and well-made footwear all made locally. We couldn’t help but get a pair of stylish abaca flip-flops at very cheap prices which would have been at least 5 times the price in Manila.

The nearby towns of Majayjay and Magdalena are hosts to beautiful, romantic churches – St. Gregory’s Church of Majayjay (you can check out a refreshing view of Laguna Lake from the belfy) and the St. Mary Magdalene Church of Magdalena (where the wounded body of Filipino revolutionary almost bled to death – you can check out the marker). Majayjay is also home to the Taytay Falls (also known as Imelda Falls) and a favored picnic grounds for the locals. For those who do not have the time to drive all the way to Vigan to see heritage houses, the town of Pila meanwhile has a respectable collection of Spanish colonial houses around its busy main town square. While it doesn’t evoke as much romantic vibe as its cousin in Ilocos Sur, Pila’s houses are quite charming on their own. While the town of Bacarra in Ilocos Norte’s town hall is the Blue House, Pila has the Red House.

For fans of finest embroidery, one should head out to Lumban for its many shops churning out exquisite artwork on clothing. This is a place where one can get the best priced, most beautifully made Barong Tagalogs (the Philippine National Costume) made out of pineapple silk sourced from Aklan and either embroidered or painted. We met the very friendly Ms. Ailyn Del Moral (No. 15 Brgy. Sto. Niño JP Rizal St., Lumban, Laguna/Landline- +63.49.8220334;Mobile- +63.917.8081762/ Email- ailyn.wowbarong@yahoo.com) who even let us try on one of their beautiful barongs. A ready-made Barong (pineapple/jusi, embroidered/painted) at her shop only costs about PhP1,500. Compared to the barong makers in Manila and elsewhere that we know of- that was just extremely cheap for the level of design and craftsmanship. The beauty of the Barong Tagalog is that everyone- Filipinos and Non-Filipinos can actually wear it and it look clean and neat and spiffy unlike the much more colorful and elaborate national costumes of other Asian countries- you can actually wear a Barong and still look even more handsome – even Hollywood Director Quentin Tarantino himself wore one! The Barong actually is very wearable, dignified and extremely elegant.

For fans of woodcarving and papier mache art, Paete is well-known all over for this craft and this pretty much evident everywhere you go in Paete. Religious icons are de rigueur and widespread. Paete’s woodcarvings are known all over the world and can be found in the statues, pulpits, murals, and bas reliefs in museums, churches and palaces like in the San Cayetano Church in Mexico, St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York, St. Joseph’s Shrine in Santa Cruz, California, the Mission Dolorosa in San Francisco as well as various churches in the Philippines as well as the Ayala Museum in Makati. Woodcarving is the lifeblood of the town, so much so that even the town’s name is derived from the word ‘Paet’ or chisel and the official town hero is the master artisan Mariano Madriñan whose masterpiece- the life-like Mater Dolorosa was honored by no less than the King of Spain with an award in Amsterdam in 1882. By March 15, 2005, the town was declared by Philippine President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo as the “Carving Capital of the Philippines.”

The town of Pakil , the next town after Paete further north is more noted with the musicality of its townsfolk, being the home of the first Music Academy in the Philippines around 1856 and earning the town as the Little Milan of the Philippines because of the many good musicians up until this day.

Pagsanjan Falls
Photo by Dave Ryan A. Buaron

A trip to Laguna would never be complete without the requisite trip down the rapids of Pagsanjan. Snaking through the gorgeous moss, fern and jungle clad canyons is the Pagsanjan River (Bumbung River). While it wasn’t as exhilarating as I thought it was going to be (I can be an adrenaline junkie sometimes so Class 1 rapids weren’t that exciting for me), although I had to keep balance all the time to make sure the camera was alright and so the long flat-bottomed fiber-glass boat wouldn’t tip over. During the rainy season, the waters turn muddy but nevertheless the views were just stunning, with dragonflies flitting around you felt ethereal while your boatmen (2 boatmen are required) navigate through the stillness of the canyons- no wonder, noted director Francis Ford Coppola filmed his final scenes for his Vietnam War-epic Apocalypse Now there. The set of course is no longer there, but one can’t help but imagine the scene of a carabao being slaughtered on the banks of the river. You start your trip at one of the boat stations in any of the resorts or hotels by the Balanac river and you will then turn right to the Bumbung River going through the different rapids and going upstream towards the direction of the thundering Magdapio Falls (or now known as Pagsanjan Falls). There will be at least 7 waterfalls (We found the First Falls amongst the most lovely) along the way and at one point, the boatmen will stop by a makeshift restaurant that sells grilled chicken and rice just before the First Falls – of course you are obligated by the people to feed the boatmen- that is on top of the PhP 1000 fee for the boat ride. Once you reach the Pagsanjan Falls, you can ride the bamboo raft to go under the thundering waterfalls and take a swim inside a cave called the Devil’s Cave. This is additional fee of course (about PhP 90 per person). While the ride was peaceful and the scenery was simply gorgeous – the main hassles of Pagsanjan start even before one enters the town. We got harassed by a tout on our bus and he was so persistent even after I told him that I was dropping by the city hall. He tried to take us to a different resort, but I insisted that I wanted to be taken to the City Hall first. Avoid these people at all costs. He insisted on even coming with us to the resort that we chose and did. I know that we were not supposed to pay for the resort entrance fee as this was supposed to be covered by the PhP 1000 fee, but yeah, we ended up shelling out an additional PhP 100 for entrance to a rather decrepit looking hotel which is fairly common all throughout Pagsanjan. Just before we got on the boat, the guy who accompanied us from the bus to the City Hall and then to the resort was asking for money – are you freaking kidding me? Just because I come to your town to go check out your waterfalls doesn’t mean I’ve got shitloads of money – and even if I did, why in my right mind am I ever going to give you money since you practically did nothing and just tagged along? The boatmen themselves are not exempt from these scandalous attempts of fleecing tourists going to Pagsanjan – after being fed up of being told by one of our boatmen that their job was extremely hard (it was) – I quipped “all kinds of work are hard- it’s not called work for nothing,” he quieted down. Dude, if you think you can’t hack it as a boatman, give it up! No one is forcing you to be one! In the end, he was trying to force me to cough up bigger tips. Wow! While Pagsanjan Falls is very beautiful and the trip to and from it is spectacular- encountering shady people in Pagsanjan just left a bitter taste in our mouths. So yeah, if ever you are going to Pagsanjan (and we still highly recommend it- visit it at least once) – better book it with a tour group. If you are going by yourselves, go straight to the City Hall and don’t talk to anyone except to people from the Municipal Hall) or arrange a contact in one of its hotels and resorts beforehand. If you are taking a private car, do not stop when someone tries to flag you down. When we say shooting the rapids in Pagsanjan is a once in a lifetime event, trust us, while it is exceptionally beautiful – the locals are quite very disappointing and leave us no choice but never to return in the future. Also please check with the city hall first if the Pagsanjan Falls (www.pagsanjan.gov.ph) are open when you go- during the rainy season, boat rides can only come up to the First Falls, since flashfloods are a real danger around this season.

Also found in Pagsanjan is the Puerta Real gate- a stone gate that recalls the miracle of Our Lady of Guadalupe, the town’s Patroness who apparently protected the town from bandits on December 8, 1877 when an apparition of a beautiful lady holding a shining sword stopped the rampaging bandits in their tracks. The people of Pagsanjan erected the stone gate in honor of their Patroness. Talking about being grateful- a giant Mexican church bell was given by the people of Mexico in 1773 and was hurled down in the Bumbungan River (the river that flows from Pagsanjan falls). The bell left Acapulco, Mexico on the San Carlos Galleon and sent by a big casco to Pagsanjan. The bell was installed at the belfry and whenever it rang, its booming echoes were heard in the nearby towns frightening local pregnant women and making many children cry. The giant bell was dismantled (probably fearing that it would result in untimely Church induced abortions every time it was rung) and thrown into the deep waters of Kawa-Kawa which was near the entrance of the gorge going to Pagsanjan Falls.

Other noteworthy places to check out in Laguna are the Buruwisan Falls in Siniloan and the Homma-Yamashita Shrine of Los Baños. Santa Rosa, meanwhile, has the country’s biggest theme park (Enchanted Kingdom) complete with a Ferris Wheel, a carousel, and even a 4D theater (sprays air and water as well as it is 3D) and feels reminiscent of the 1930’s theme parks of the United States. The man-made Caliraya (created in 1937 by US Army Engineer Major General Hugh J. Casey by flooding the Cavinti Valley of Southern Sierra Madre to generate hydroelectric power for Manila, but sabotaged by the Americans to prevent use by the advancing Japanese during the World War 2- rebuilt and then sabotaged by the Japanese and ‘rediscovered by tourists in the early ‘70s) as well continues to be a popular haunt for the well-heeled with several activities such as jet skiing, waterskiing, boating, golf, and large mouth bass fishing (the most popular spot for bass fishing in the Philippines).

Why Not Go

Laguna does not have beaches of its own, and the ones that closely resembles beaches are by the banks of the Laguna Lake- but we’d rather not swim there. The touts and the harassment we encountered in Pagsanjan were also quite a big frustration for us.

Why Go

Due to its close proximity to Manila, Laguna is a great getaway- whether you are a history junkie, a nature-lover or even a traveling gourmand. We practically did day trips to Laguna and pretty much covered a very good part of it in three weekends.

Best Time to Visit

Best time to go to Laguna is preferably during the dry season although it doesn’t hurt to do a quick trip there even if the weather is unwilling to cooperate. With shooting the rapids in Pagsanjan – the main falls might be closed off if rain is continuous to protect any visitors from flashfloods. If the weather is clear, then a trip to Laguna is not all that bad.

Where to Stay

Save up to 75% on hotels in Philippines

There are heaps of accommodations in Laguna- especially in the Pansol area (for the hot springs) and the Pagsanjan area for the rapids and the waterfalls. We haven’t tried any of these places as we did Laguna as a series of day trips. You may want to check out – Hotel La Corona de Pagsanjan (www. lacorona.com) and Pagsanjan Rapids Hotel (+63.2.8340403/+63.2.8340404). If you really needed to stay in Pagsanjan for the night, you may contact the Pagsanjan Tourism Office (+63.920.9073480) or you may just want to arrange this in advance with a travel agency in Manila. For the hot springs in Pansol- check out http://www.laguna-hotspring.com/ for a listing of the hot springs. It should be said again that we haven’t tried any of these resorts so we cannot vouch for the quality of their services. If in doubt, always ask someone from the local tourism office.

Where & What to Eat

Kesong Puti (White Cheese) from carabao’s milk, and delectable coconut pies (Buko Pies) of Collette’s – you can never go wrong with Collette’s which are ubiquitous along the roadsides of Laguna and are one of the must-try Laguna delicacies. Majayjay is famed for its potent 90-proof lambanog (coconut vodka) as well and it can be found along the roadside stalls – cheap and incredibly strong. Kinulob na Itik, a savoury duck dish of Victoria town in Laguna should also be on your list.

Laguna is also part of a culinary tour that stretches up to Quezon Province and Batangas– Viajes del Sol (http://www.viajedelsol.org/) where some of its restaurants figure like Carlito’s, Casa San Pablo, Herbana Farms, Kusina Salud, Pillar Plants and Novelties, Sitio de Amor, and the Forest Club. This is a must try for those on the gastronomic mood.

Nightlife

Most of Laguna’s nightlife centers around the resorts in the bigger towns especially around UP Los Baños, otherwise, the nightlife here is nothing really to write about – that is unless camping in the forest of Makiling is your kind of a wild night out.

My to do List

1. Shoot the rapids at Pagsanjan Falls and swim in the Devil’s Cave.**
2. Shop for footwear in Liliw.*
3. Go church-hopping.*
4. Visit the Spanish Underground Cemetery in Nagcarlan.*
5. Hike Mt. Makiling and see Mud Springs and the Flat Rocks.*
6. Get your own Lumban-embroidered Barong Tagalog (Men) or Baro at Saya (Women).*
7. Check out Paete Woodcarvings.*
8. Take a soak at the springs of Pansol.**
9. Pay a visit to the Rizal Shrine in Calamba.**
10. Try the Kinulob na Itik of Victoria.**
11. Waterskiing at Lake Caliraya.**
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Lumban Embroidery
Photo by Dave Ryan A. Buaron

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Dust Mites. – bring Lysol with you, if you think the hotel room is oldish and not cleaned properly.
3. UV rays – Apply ample sun protection and sunglasses. Bring extra clothes and plastic bags for your valuables as well if you plan of doing the rapids in Pagsanjan.
4. Flaggers and Illegal Boatmen- report them immediately to the Tourist Police or the Mayor’s Office.

Getting There

Make Sure You Get a Map!
Photo by Dave Ryan A. Buaron

If you are not coming with a tour group, there are many buses that ply to different points in Laguna. Jam, Tritran, Green Star buses traverse Calamba, Los Baños, Bay, Victoria, Pila, and Sta. Cruz. If you are bound to Pagsanjan – you get off the bus at Pagsawitan and then take a jeepney or a tricycle to Pagsanjan City Hall (ask to be dropped at the city hall – don’t allow people to take you straight to their resort.) If you want to go to the southern towns of San Pablo, Nagcarlan, Rizal, Liliw, Majayjay and Luisiana- take Jam Transit bound for Lucena in Quezon and get off at the San Pablo Colleges Medical Center and take a tricycle into town for the seven lakes or you may want to hop through the different towns via jeepney (no buses go through the southern towns- the primary means of transport is jeepney). Locals are generally helpful and jeepneys are available in the more remote towns up to 4 to 5PM only. Do not forget to take a road map of Laguna before embarking on a trip.

Bill Riley : 50 years ago I was in the Marine Corps and stationed at a military base near San Antonio, about 45 miles from Subic. I think the Philippine Army took over the base after the Americans left. Ever since my wife and I have been married I have been telling her about how beautiful the PI is! The people were always gracious and we got along very well. Many felt comfortable enough to tell me about their experiences during World War II. I know many things have changed in 50 years. I would like to show my wife your country’s beauty. Would it be safe to travel from Manila to San Antonio? What would be the best way to travel to San Antonio? Thanks, in advance, for your advice.

Thanks a lot.

Answer

Ryan:Hi Bill,
Traveling to San Antonio (Zambales) is safe and easy. Please check my Zambales article for your reference. The best way I would reckon is you hire a car and a driver at any of the licensed car agencies in any of the top hotels. It is a bit expensive but it is the most convenient. If you have to self-drive, you may have to purchase a road map in advance. There are buses that go to Zambales as well but they have a lot of stops (and could be a great hassle especially traveling, and I hope you don’t take this as an offense, with your age). Zambales is generally safe- never had much of a problem there except the usually overpriced prices and appalling quality of accommodations in most midrange to budget hotels/resorts- but like any destinations, a good dose of common sense goes a long way.
You also may want to go check Palawan (check out the Coron article) or Bohol. If you and your wife loves nature then you would certainly love it. Boracay is also a good catch of course and if you are willing to really go for nice mountains, great culture and good food – then Sagada is my best pick – the only drawback is the 12 hour drive up – but the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. You may also want to see the Walled City of Manila (Intramuros) and the American Cemetery at Fort Bonifacio in Taguig City. The Ilocos provinces in the north are quite pretty as well. Check out those articles here in our pages and hope it helps you deciding the best way to see and experience the Philippines.
Cheers and I hope you guys will have a great time. Let us know when you are coming so maybe we could give you a few more tips.
Ryan

Ryan:And yeah, I almost forgot – a day trip to Corregidor Island off Manila is a must – with its extensive historical ties to American and Filipino stand against the Japanese during the last World War. Check out the Corregidor article on our pages. Cheers!
Ryan

The Philippine Ballet Theatre
Photo by Huno

Walking Tours

Philippine History in a Nutshell

In recent years, tourism has been on the uptick in the Philippines – but somehow, Manila has been relegated to a mere stopover to the more popular destinations in the Philippines. Manila has its own charm however, and walking tours around the city are fast becoming popular not only with the local expatriate community and visiting tourists, but with skeptical locals as well – who thought Manila was nothing but a hodgepodge of indiscriminate Asian urbanity.

Carlos Celdran of Walk This Way Tours

Amongst the most popular of all walking tours, Walk This Way (http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/) tours by the funny, irreverent and very knowledgeable Carlos Celdran rule the roost. His Walking Tour of Intramuros, Manila’s Old Walled City is easily the most popular of the tours – with his different take on the Philippine colonial history.

Traipse around the cobblestoned streets of Fort Santiago where the National Hero was incarcerated, marvel at the stunning artworks of San Agustin Church (A UNESCO World Heritage Site) and its adjunct Museum, and literally walking the walls of the Old City once the seat of Iberian power in Asia. Celdran also offers tours of Binondo (the oldest existing Chinatown in the world) and Quiapo through its frenetic streets of superstition, religion and quirky Filipino street cuisine. This tour weaves around Plaza Calderon de la Barca, Binondo Church, Carvajal Street Market, Kipuja Street Temple, Ongpin Street, Evangelista Herbalist Market, Ilalim ng Tulay (Under the Bridge) Handicraft Market, Carriedo Market and Santa Cruz Church. We took the Living La Vida Imelda Tour which is basically a trip around the Cultural Center of the Philippines Complex – a collection of buildings built during the Marcos regime whilst being delighted by factoids about the life of the infamous shoe-hogging former First Lady that can put Evita Peron and Marie Antoinette to shame.

Want to learn who amongst the former Miss Universe 1974 contestants turned lesbian and ran away with a Russian diplomat or which one became a soft-core porn actress and cocaine addict? Better check out this tour. Better prepare your cameras because excellent photographic opportunities are abundant on these tours.

Gate of Fort Santiago
Photo by Frisno

After these walking tours, you will not see Manila the same way ever again.

Average time spent for any of the tours- 3 hours

Museums

A Glimpse of the Philippines Multihued Past

World-class museums abound in Manila but the most notable are the Ayala Museum (http://www.ayalamuseum.org/) in Makati, the National Museum of the Filipino People (http://philmuseum.tripod.com/index), and the Metropolitan Museum of Manila (http://metmuseum.ph/). The National Museum was then called the Insular Museum of Ethnology, Natural History, and Commerce and was established in 1901. Subsequently it was changed into a Bureau of Ethnological Survey under the Department of Interior in 1903, and after the St. Louis Exposition of 1904, the Office renamed it as the Philippine Museum. It went into further changes in its over a hundred years of history and in 1998 (in time for the Centennial Celebration of Philippine Independence), the new National Museum was inaugurated as the National Museum of the Filipino People with a permanent exhibit entitled “The Story of the Filipino People” and the world-class traveling exhibit, The Treasures of the San Diego- treasures recovered from a wreck off Batangas- one of the largest wreck finds ever in recorded world history.

Ayala Museum
Photo by Stitch

The Ayala Museum in Makati, which was built under the patronage of the elite Ayala clan, boasts a diorama of Philippine History as well as an extensive permanent exhibition of a pre-colonial collection of more than a one thousand gold objects that touts the sophisticated cultures that thrived in the Philippines prior to the Spanish colonization in the 16th century. Find a stunning array of golden necklaces, pectorals, earrings, rings, anklets, diadems, funerary masks and almost 4 kilograms of gold expertly and intricately woven into a gold halter believed to be the Upvaita or the Sacred Thread (usually worn by the Brahmins in a traditional Hindu society. There is a also a gold vessel in the shape of half-bird and half-woman, otherwise referred to as the “kimnari” of the Hindu myth. The exhibit- the fruit of an extensive archeological find in Northern Mindanao suggests a pre-colonial culture that was very advanced and comparable to the civilizations of Angkor, Madjapahit and Sri Vijaya empires. Ayala Museum also has finely crafted scale models of the ancient ships that plied the Philippine waters as well as a collection of paintings from legendary Philippine visual artists.

The Metropolitan Museum of Manila on Roxas Boulevard meanwhile is rather surprising. From the outside, it pretty much looks like an unimpressive building, however, it does have pretty well maintained and decidedly international feel in its interiors. Run by the Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (Central Bank of the Philippines), you may be able to catch both classical and contemporary art works in its building including original paintings by Felix Resurrecion Hildago and Juan Luna – bastions of Philippine Art during the Spanish Period. There are temporary exhibitions of artists from around the world as well, and at the back, one can take a glimpse of a small park with a cannon hoisted, the same cannon used during the assault of Manila by the invading British Army.

Please check the websites for fees, schedules and information on current exhibitions.

Average time spent – 3 hours

Nightlife

The Most Vibrant yet the Most Underrated in the whole of Asia

Metro Manila is a megacity that never sleeps. Whilst the most happening days are on the weekend, Filipinos and expatriates always find an excuse to go out and trip the light fantastic in its upscale clubs, or share a bottle of ice-cold San Miguel in the many bars that swarm all over the city of about 15 Million people.

The financial hub of Makati is the ground zero for Manila’s most happening places, parties are afoot on pool decks on glittering skyscrapers, or in the many bars of Greenbelt and in any of the top hotels in the district. The atmosphere is decidedly international- and comes as a pleasant surprise to the Western traveler who comes to expect the Philippines is a big hopeless slum. Thursday Nights are the busiest at the popular expat watering hole M Café, with DJs playing a mix of nujazz, broken beat, or house music and the yuppies from the nearby offices chow down fusion cuisines or sip their lychee martinis while sharing travel stories, latest economic news, the latest Manila gossip or eyeing out that cute noob in tight pants. Perfect place to meet people and get invited to heaps of private parties in Manila. Fewer prostitutes too compared with the notorious Café Havana nearby.

Club kids head out to Embassy at the Fort, that decidedly pretentious Philippine attempt at a superclub, while those who sport the LGBT flag sashay their way to Government (which has fallen on ghetto times) off Makati Avenue. Sip your wines at Barcino’s at The Fort – one of the best wine places in metropolis.

Malate used to be a cool bohemian district but slowly degenerated into a hotspot for trashy effeminate men, hookers and wannabe artists/activists, but yeah, each to his own, right? Catch the diminutive servers at The Hobbit House at M.H. Del Pilar – a little peculiar but hey, bring on the kitsch! Walking through Malate is like checking out Manila’s seedy underbelly, so be prepared for prostitutes propositioning you, and there are a lot of them at LA Café (we got our stripper there for one of the stag parties). Too squeamish? Skip Malate altogether. I know I do.

Other centers of nightlife include, Eastwood City in Libis for the younger set, and the many restaurants and bars along Tomas Morato and Timog in Quezon City.

Average time spent in any of the nightspots – Some people go home when dawn breaks

Shopping!

Manila’s Undiscovered Secret

Cheap Clothes, Electronics Section of Greenhills
Photo by Merrionsq

With the megacity’s colossal shopping malls- shopping seems to be the lifeblood of the Philippines. Recent surveys say that consumer spending was still up even during the hardest months of the financial crisis. An angry Filipino eats, sings and shops. If you are on the lookout for awesome bargains – head out to Greenhills in San Juan for cultured pearls (Imelda Marcos is a loyal shopper here), cheap but well-made knockoff clothes and well, almost everything under the scorching Philippine sun. For the hardy ones, you may push your way through the throngs of crowds and pray that you don’t get trampled to death in an ensuing stampede – make your way to Divisoria in Manila for handicrafts, yards and yards of cloths, food, and other cheap buys. I remember the saying; “God made the world, and the rest was made by China” holds more than an ounce of truth in these parts.

Greenbelt, Glorietta and Powerplant Mall in Makati play hosts to top international brands – Michael Kors, Givenchy, Gucci, Prada, Ferragamo and a lot more. Meanwhile, SM Malls who cater to the middle class, flexes its consumerist muscles with hulking malls – SM North EDSA. SM Megamall and the Mall of Asia- these malls, are some of the largest in the world with thousands upon thousands of square feet of shopaholic delights!

Average time spent – 3-5 Hours

Eating, eating and more eating

eat eat … eat eat, eat!

People who seemingly live to eat will find Manila a wonderful gastronomic surprise with its spectacular smorgasbord of international cuisines available. From the weekend markets of Salcedo and Legazpi in Makati to the street cuisines available in almost all parts of the teeming metropolis to the haute dining in Manila’s top restaurants, a visitor will never have an excuse to go hungry. You may want to check out our list of the Top 10 Best Places to Eat in Manila. Malay, Greek, French, Turkish, Portuguese, American, Spanish, Italian, Filipino, Japanese, Chinese and Indian cuisine are well represented here.

Food is a Religion Amongst Filipinos
Photo by Uckhet

For those who want to try Filipino street food – never miss out on the Balut – fertilized duck egg, gross looking but very savory – I had to try two. Kwek-kwek- boiled chicken or quail eggs in orange batter and deep fried were kind of strange but scrumptious – a definite must try for adventurous palates. You may try barbecued isaw- chicken intestines, betamax- barbecued pigs blood squares, adidas- chicken feet, or helmet- chicken head – all downed with a cup of sago at gulaman – sugary-sweet drink of sago, vanilla, and caramelized sugar– easily one of my favorites.

You may also check out the Singing Cooks and Waiters on Roxas Boulevard – and yes, everyone sings- from the valet to the waiter serving your food. From the menu to the interiors to the uniforms, everything is predominantly Filipino.

Average time spent – 3 Hours

Health and Wellness

Tired of the same old drag – Thai Massage, Shiatsu and Swedish? Check out the newest star on the health and wellness block – the Hilot – ancient Fillipino art of healing. Although it used to be generally confined in the deepest Philippine rural areas, hilot is fast gaining international attention. It employs chiropractic manipulation for the diagnosis and treatment of musculoskeletal and musculoligamentous ailments or just plainly to relieve stress. I never miss a chance to have one especially when I am out traveling outside of Manila – but you may check out Suriya Spa in Greenbelt as well as the major, legitimate spas in hotels all over Metro Manila to get one.

Average time spent – 1-2 hours

Sights and Sounds of Manila

Quintin Paredes Street, Binondo, Manila
Photo by Bikoy

Experience one of Asia’s biggest aquarium with a veritable collection of endemic Philippine marine life at the Manila Ocean Park. Ride the ubiquitous Philippine jeepneys, marvel at the steel church of San Sebastian designed by Gustave Eiffel. Take pictures of quirky mausoleums at the Chinese Cemetery (see the mausoleum designed like the Sydney Opera House). Ponder the bravery of the fallen at the American Cemetery where you can see rows upon rows of white crosses amidst a green field. Hear the only bamboo organ in the world play at Las Piñas. Catch the world-renowned Ballet Philippines perform at the Cultural Center of the Philippines.

For some, Manila can be quite a handful – but those brave enough to explore it will be rewarded with an experience like no other city in the world. Manila will feel familiar, yet strange; confusing, yet engaging; complicated, but nevertheless beautiful – if one looks hard enough. Like the Philippines, Manila is meant to be explored and those who do will agree with me that it is one of the most exciting cities in the world.

Rizal

Rizal Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Right at the doorsteps of Manila and perched at the southern end of the Sierra Madre, Rizal holds many secret natural and cultural treasures- from its beautiful waterfalls and stunning rock formations, Spanish colonial churches to thousands of years old artworks and a passionate dedication to arts- truly a surprise treat for travelers who often overlook this wonder of a province.

Just 20 kilometers east of Manila is the Province of Rizal – so close that it is often dismissed by a lot if not most of the travelers as another surrogate to the capital city. In part, this is true- for the cities and towns that are close to the metropolis, one wonders where Manila ends and where the province of Rizal begins as the outskirts of Rizal are heavily industrialized and commercial in nature and seem to be an extension of Manila thus creating an impression that Rizal has nothing to offer but just another industrial suburb of Manila. And, man, that statement could have never been so absolutely wrong.

Batlag Falls
Photo by Spumpie

Rizal began as a territory when the provinces of Tondo and Laguna were created by the Spanish government with the towns of Pasig and Parañaque (now part of Metro Manila), Taytay and Cainta- bustling towns during the Spanish colonial era with a decidedly cosmopolitan mix already, intermarriages between the Tagalogs, the Chinese and Arabs were prevalent long before Spain came to colonize these shores. Encomiendas were established with Moron (Morong), Passi (Pasig), Taitay (Taytay) and Tagui (Taguig-now part of Metro Manila) under their respective jurisdictions under the provinces of Tondo and La Laguna. In the succeeding years, further political subdivisions were dissolved and created with the town of Morong eventually becaming the capital of La Laguna and then later changed into a Distrito Politico-Militar de Morong. During the tenure of the revolutionary government of General Emilio Aguinaldo, who also served as the Philippines’ first Philippine President, Mariquina (Marikina) became the capital of the Province of Manila.

After all these confusing fusions and dissections of Manila, on 11 June 1901 the province of Rizal (named after the Philippine National Hero Jose Rizal as suggested by Dr. Trinidad Hermenegildo Pardo de Tavera- a creole and derided as one of the first American “buttkissers”, who’s Parisian house at one time received Jose Rizal and other prominent Filipino intellectuals and revolutionists in Europe) was finally created by virtue of Act No. 137 by the first Philippine Commission (was acting as the unicameral legislative body for Luzon at that time) headed by United States of America President William Howard Taft and composed of Commissioners Luke E. Wright, Henry C. Ide, Bernard Moses and Dean C, Worcester during a meeting at the Pasig Catholic Church and with 221 delegates in attendance through a heated debate.

Originally composed of 26 towns (most of which are now part of Metro Manila), the former dictator Ferdinand E. Marcos by virtue of Presidential Decree No. 824 took away the 12 towns of Rizal namely the towns of Las Piñas, Makati, Taguig, Pateros, Mandaluyong, San Juan, Malabon, Navotas, Muntinlupa, Parañaque, Pasig and Marikina to merge them with the newly-created Metro Manila leaving Rizal with the remaining 14 towns.

Right now, Rizal is bordered by Metro Manila to the west, with the impressive rugged mountains of Sierra Madre and the province of Quezon to the east, Bulacan to the north and the Laguna and the Laguna de Bay – one of the largest freshwater basins in Asia-Pacific, to the south. This diverse geography now plays host to a kaleidoscope of spectacular natural wonders. Although struggling between sounding too cliché and its rather charmless concrete view decks and an obvious but seemingly manageable trash situation, the waterfalls of Hinulugang Taktak in Antipolo- a popular tourist destination for Manila-folk in the past, is unarguably stunning in its own right and probably the closest waterfall you can ever get to from Manila. There is a minimal entrance fee, one can reach it by a tricycle and it is pretty close to the important pilgrimage church of Antipolo – the Antipolo Domed Cathedral. The cathedral is home to Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage (brought to Antipolo on November 26, 1626 by Archbishop Michael O’Doherty) whose apparent miraculous image sailed back and forth between Manila and Acapulco eight times- not an easy feat since the waters of the Pacific could be treacherous and unforgiving to the galleons with the oceanic storms, pirate attacks and British and Dutch blockades eyeing to seize the Philippines that time. Of course we now know that the British succeeded in occupying Luzon from 1762-1764 (although Philippine History books seem to skim through this bit of history). By the end of the occupation, British Indian troops called the Sepoys mutinied and decided to live, intermarry with the locals and settle in the town of Cainta, thus, it is not a wonder that you would see descendants of people in Cainta have Indian facial features and there is cuisine influenced by their Indian ancestry. During the Lenten Season, scores of pilgrims and devotees flock to Antipolo Church, walking all the way from Manila barefoot. Do not be surprised to see people around early morning during the week of Easter walking barefoot on Manila’s main drag- EDSA, chances are they are headed to Antipolo for this annual sojourn.

Hinulugang Taktak, Antipolo
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Aside from the newish-looking Antipolo Cathedral, Antipolo also boasts of another very romantic looking church of Boso-boso (Nuestra Señora de la Anunciata- Our Lady of the Annunciation) which was established as a church mission by the Jesuits in the 17th century. The church was destroyed by an earthquake on 18 June 1880, and almost got buried underwater when a dam project in 1930 was proposed. The church was vacated. Fortunately the project did not push through and the church was saved. While it narrowly escaped by being drowned, the church was not immune to fire. It was burned down in 1943 during the height of World War II and eventually turned into a ruin. In 1995, its devotees finally rebuilt the church in its original state. Antipolo is also known for its dramatic, sweeping views of the Manila skyline. There are restaurants that sit on its ridges overlooking the sprawling megalopolis we call Metro Manila. Pretty good views I say. During early mornings, watch as the dawn breaks, watch the bed of clouds and fog creep in and hug the ridges of Antipolo.

Other historically and architecturally significant churches would be the churches of Baras, Tanay and Morong. The Saint Jerome Church of Morong was built by Chinese artisians in 1615 with stone and mortars with the distinct architecture that reflects Chinese touches on Baroque style as the two Chinese lion sculptures stands guard at its entrance and the feng shui symbolism of the octagonal bell tower. The church was also the site of a fierce gun battle between the Filipino revolutionists Katipuneros and the Spanish Guardia Civils during the latter part of the 19th century as its walls bear pockmarks and bullet-scarring. The Tanay Church meanwhile boasts of beautiful and ornate retablos (altars) and the 14 ‘Via Crucis’ or Stations of the Cross curved in bas relief of wood. The church was the first that was made of stone in Tanay and was first built in 1680 in what is now the present location of Tanay Park. The current church was rebuilt in 1773 and completed ten years later. Tanay Church is the best example of early Renaissance Architecture in the Philippines and is famed for being one of the very few churches in the country that features Rococo Artwork, a popular style during the 18th Century characterized by curves and goldleaf. Saint Joseph Church of Baras, another fine example of Baroque Architecture, meanwhile was built in 1686 and like the churches of Boso-boso, Tanay, and Morong have the same romantic feel. The altar and its lectern were constructed with stones that were unearthed beneath the site of the church.

Daranak Falls
Photo by Spumpie

Aside from the more famous Hinulugang Taktak, Rizal also has another two beautiful waterfalls- Daranak Falls and Batlag Falls of Tanay. Daranak is owned by the provincial government of Rizal and there is a minimal fee of PhP20 per person to enter, and compared with the Hinulugang Taktak in Antipolo is a little bit cleaner. During the rainy season, these two falls gush ebullient cascades of water which is made quite mesmerizing by the fact that these beautiful waterfalls are so close to Manila! Batlag Falls (Entrance fee- PhP50 per person), which is further up from Daranak and is privately owned by the Felix Family (and reportedly Philippine boxer Manny Pacquiao offered to buy the entire estate for PhP90 Million- the family refused) is even better and even cleaner than Daranak. Batlag Falls is actually composed by two waterfalls each looking like a bridal veil. Both falls were refreshing and beautiful although it is constantly being threatened by the stupidity of some of its visitors – since picnicking is allowed, some visitors are insensitive and dumb enough to leave some of their trash around. Good thing the trash situation at these waterfalls is manageable and hopefully it will not reach alarming levels. At Batlag Falls we even saw someone etched their name on one of the stones! I wish that the local government of Rizal and the town of Tanay would do something to preserve the beauty of these places – which incidentally are used frequently by Filipino filmmakers to shoot some of its fight scenes. For fans of Philippine Cinema, are you familiar with the requisite scene where our hero jumps off from the top of the waterfall? You guessed it right, it was all filmed here. There are some small huts available for rent, but the main falls area of Daranak itself closes at 5PM. In Taytay, there is a smaller and apparently harder to reach waterfall, the Tres Escalon Waterfalls as well as the Maharlika Falls.

Mount Masungi Rock Formations, Tanay
Photo from Official Website of the Provincial Government of Rizal

For mountaineers or just fans of beautiful rock formations, one is stunned by the numerous colossal rock formations of Mount Masungi covering hundreds of hectares. In some areas, at certain times of the year, with the right angle of sunlight and viewed from the top, the formations looked like tall spires of orangey-colored rocks that look like a fusion of the limestone karsts of Palawan and the vermillion colored rocks of the Grand Canyon of the United States of America. At the very least, the formations are an impressive sight to behold that seemingly go on for miles with its spiky tops poking through its thick vegetation. The Masungi Park and the Daraetan River of Tanay which are both located at the Sierra Madre Mountain Ranges are a hiker’s paradise with their countless caves (check out the newly-opened Sungib Cave with an apparently navigable river inside) and natural springs. The Daraetan River, awarded as one of the cleanest rivers in the Philippines and where Tanay River originates, has splendid naturally sculptured marble formations that look like they have been chiseled or blasted by a machine (sometimes known as Tinipak na Bato – Chiseled Rock) – a favored place for fans of 4×4 drive and trekkers. You may find caverns in this area where you can enter and paddle a canoe if you wish to go exploring (find a reliable local to guide you in this case).

For spelunking fans, Calinawan Cave is spelunking fastfood – quick, easy and value-added. Used to be a meeting place of Katipuneros of the region where differences were talked over and threshed out (thus Calinawan – “to make clear”) and subsequently became one of the staging posts of Philippine revolutionists against the Spaniards, Americans and the Japanese occupiers. Sadly, some idiots have vandalized the walls of this cave with graffiti (Yes, we now know your name is Ken!), it is not too late though if the locals in the area start cleaning up the walls and preserving the area. A guide is required for a minimal fee- you may buy candles from the small store outside the cave or you may just bring your torch/flashlight with you. The spelunking takes probably about 20 minutes maximum and with the slippery mud, you may want to take appropriate footwear with you, a helmet won’t be so bad either.

Whilst in Tanay, you may want to visit the former Philippine President Joseph Estrada’s rest house which is now converted into a museum and some sort of a zoo. The former President was overthrown during massive protests in the wake of failed impeachment proceedings against the former President’s alleged involvement in the illegal numbers game called jueteng in 2001. Estrada was then placed under what was then called “rest house arrest” in his 15 hectare property in Tanay where he was detained for 6 and a half years. There’s a vegetable garden and a menagerie of ducks, pigs, chickens, horses, swans and ostriches as well as an old chapel and a Muslim-inspired pavilion called the Maranao Village where he entertained guests. He also had a marble tomb constructed for his future use. There is a minimal entrance fee required.

Meanwhile in the town of Rodriguez (formerly called Montalban) you would be able to find Mountain of White Rocks (two white rock mountains of boulders with a very steep gorge in between) that look like a mountain split into two. According to a famous Philippine legend, mythical strong man Bernardo Carpio had an extraordinary strength, strong enough to split the mountain in his time. On the Montalban Gorge, white rocks and boulders are scattered along the river banks. Also found in Rodriguez is the Pamitinan Cave, an important historical site where Andres Bonifacio, the founder of the revolutionary group Katipunan along with 8 other Katipuneros declared independence from Spain in 12 April 1895, a year before the Philippine revolution officially started. The cave still bears the Bonifacio inscription: “Viva La Independencia Filipinas”.

The town of Cardona on the other hand plays host to an interesting geological site, the Cardona Rock Garden- big boulders of rocks cascading. Cardona also serves a jump-off point to the dagger-shaped Talim Island in Laguna de Bay.

Between the Angono and Binangonan boundary, National Artist, acclaimed muralist and Angono native Carlos “Botong” Francisco discovered 127 drawings of animal and human figures engraved in the rock surface along with fragments of earthenware, shells and obsidian flakes carbon dated to circa 3000 B.C. and what has come to be known as the Angono Petroglyphs, a cultural heritage site certified by the National Museum (there is a branch of the National Museum onsite). The site was discovered in 1965 and the Angono Petroglyphs represent the oldest known Filipino relic and artwork. The Angono Petroglyphs have been included in the World Inventory of Rock Art under the support of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO), International Centre for the Study of the Preservation and Restoration of Cultural Property (ICCROM) and International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) and declared as a National Cultural Treasure by virtue of Presidential Decree 260 and in 1996, it was nominated as one of the ‘100 Most Endangered Sites of the World’ under the World Monument Watch List. Entrance is free, and the site is just before the swanky Thunderbird Resort, there is a small sign that says Angono Petroglyphs, turn right and you will see an old warehouse, follow the dirt road to the right and then when you see the tunnel drilled through a mountain, you may either walk straight through it or ride a tricycle or you may drive your car.

Angono Petroglyphs
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

With the discovery of the ancient drawings, the town of Angono solidified its reputation of being the Cradle of Philippine Art. Angono is a proud home to artist families where a visit to the Blanco Family Museum (Ibañez Street/+63.926.6730805/blancomuseum@yahoo.com) on Angono Town is a must- whose museum houses the paintings of the entire family from the youngest (7 Children- all painters) to the patriarch of the family. Some of the paintings can be so detailed that they almost look like photographs and their recurring themes are the travels of the family as well as the pastoral scenes of Angono and Laguna de Bay. Unfortunately some of these paintings were stolen and have yet to be found. Indeed, the museum is extraordinary in how so much talent can be found in just a single family. Museum Hours- : 9-11am, 1-5pm everyday with minimal fee which includes a guided tour. Another must visit place in Angono is the old, and preserved studio of famed Philippine muralist and National Artist Carlos “Botong” Francisco (The Second Gallery, Doña Aurora Street/+63.917.9531104/www.secondgallery.blogspot.com) who was known for his historical pieces and being one of the first Filipino modernists along with Victorio C. Edades and Galo Ocampo (known as the Triumvirate amongst the local art circles) – a rebellion from another National Artist Fernando Amorsolo which is more known for his romanticist works of Philippine scenes. His works include the Bayanihan, Blood Compact, First Mass at Limasawa, The Martyrdom of Rizal, Magpupukot, Fiesta, The Invasion of Limahong, Muslim Bethrotal, Sandugo and Portrait of Purita. These murals have been replicated in bas reliefs on the street where the former master lived. Botong Francisco’s grandson Totong, a visual artist in his own right now maintains a gallery of his own attached to his gramps’ restored studio. Buzz in, they are usually open even during Sundays, entrance is free. A visit to Angono would not be complete without dropping by Toti Argana’s workplace on Manila East Road corner Don Benito Street. Argana is a known Higante maker- giant papier mache human figures that are usually paraded around town during the Higantes Festival celebrated every November 23rd.

A Happy Carabao, Blanco Family Museum
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Why Not Go

Rizal does not have any white sandy beaches as the only shoreline that it has is found along the coast of Laguna de Bay.

Why Go

Perfect for quick weekend getaways, Rizal offers a good number of natural, cultural and historical attractions. Most likely you will be the only foreigner traipsing in its waterfalls as this province is pretty much shunned by most Filipino and foreign travelers- for whatever reason, your guess is as good as mine. Hey, even a certain “well-established” travel guide skipped the entire province altogether!

Best Time to Visit

The best time to go and check Rizal is during the drier months and during the summer months, however, rainy season is the best time to check out the waterfalls as there should be more water and the waterfalls will be lovelier. Check the local weather with the Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical & Astronomical Services Administration (www.pagasa.dost.gov.ph) for weather forecasts.

Where to Stay

Save up to 75% on hotels in Philippines

There are a lot of places to stay in Rizal from budget inns to posh resorts. Our personal favorite would be Thunderbird Resorts (http://www.thunderbirdresorts.com/info/philippines/en/resorts.rizal.aspx) on the boundaries of Binangonan and Angono towns and about 45 minute drive from Manila. The resort is a swanky retreat perched 210 feet above sea level with spectacular and panoramic views of one of the largest lake in Southeast Asia. Currently its international hotel has 43 beautifully appointed rooms, themed restaurants (Vegas Buffet, Pool Bar, Cabana Bar and Nueva Laguna- the only Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in the area) and of course for the region’s high rollers- their very own playground- an international casino. The resort also offers access to an 18-hole, all-weather, championship golf course designed by the renowned developer IMG.

Thunderbird Resorts, Binangonan
Photo credit Thunderbird Resorts

What we love about the rooms- they are just spacious, and tastefully decorated with subtle Filipino touches and the view from the balcony on the second floor is just gorgeous (one can see as far away as the cities and towns down on the other side of Laguna de Bay). Just be careful with the balcony door latches, we were almost locked out of our room when the latch locked from the inside.

Ryan: One of the managers of Thunderbird Resorts told me yesterday (3rd August 2009) that he will have the Engineering Team looked into the problem of the room in question and will have the matters resolved as soon as possible.

Thunderbird Resorts are very close to the Angono Petroglyphs and about 10-15 minutes away from the main town of Angono which is famed for its art scene and the Higantest Festival.

For other budgets, you may want to check out the hotels in Antipolo (it is better that you base yourselves there as it is pretty convenient to launch trips to other parts of Rizal through Antipolo).

Where & What to Eat

There are a lot of places to eat in Rizal and a wide variety too. The most popular probably would be the Sanrok sa Kamalig Restaurant and Function House (691- 5647) in Morong and its branch in Tanay- Basnigan sa Kamalig Seafood & Saro-saro sa Kamalig Restaurant (639-0403/654- 4822), all located along the highway and a very convenient stop-over for travelers around Rizal especially those checking out the sights of Morong and Tanay. The restaurant specializes in yummy Filipino dishes with Asian cuisine techniques like its own versions of Bulalo (cow’s bone marrow soup with vegetables), Bicol Express (pork in spicy coconut milk) and many others. The restaurant is owned by Mr. Raffy Reyes, himself one of the active civic and church leaders in Tanay and is also considering in promoting Tanay as a tourist destination in its own right. It was also through Mr. Reyes’ and his daughter, my friend Carina’s assistance that we were able to go around and see the beautiful sights of Tanay by lending us their pickup and the services of their very knowledgeable driver who filled us in with the bits and pieces of trivia about Tanay.

In Angono, Balaw Balaw (651 0110) stands out. It doubles as a restaurant that specializes in exotic cuisine and an art gallery at the same time. Balaw Balaw refers to fermented shrimp paste mixed with rice gruel and angkak, a reddish herb. The restaurant serves deer meat, frogs’ legs, python adobo-style, and duck adobo. The restaurant used to serve wild boar until the Environment Department called its attention.

The Pool Bar of Thunderbird Resort has a pretty damn excellent view of the gorgeous Laguna de Bay, the golf course and the mountainside. Try their Thunder Burger, their own take on the classic favorite. They are open weekdays from 10AM to 10PM and 8AM-12MN during weekends and holidays. Sizzling off-the grill specialties every Thursday from 6PM to 10PM until Sundays from 11AM to 12MN.

Other stuff that you should not miss in Rizal? Cashews of Antipolo City (you can get them outside Antipolo Church in a covered court area) and of course, the popular fried itik (duck).

Nightlife

Rizal nightlife is best enjoyed in the ridges of Antipolo viewing Manila from a distance. Due to its close proximity to Manila, Rizal has wide array of entertainment from the resorts that dot the province. Others might prefer camping out in Daraetan River if you plan to rough it out.

My to do List

1. Take a dip at the Daranak and Batlag Falls.*
2. Check out the churches of Tanay, Baras, Morong and Antipolo.**
3. Do spelunking at Calinawan and Sungib Caves.**
4. Trek the Daraetan River, navigate the caverns and check out Tinipak na Bato.*
5. Try Rizal’s fried itik.*
6. Visit the museums of Angono.**
7. Marvel at the 5000 year old Angono Petroglyphs.*
8. See the rock formations of Mount Masungi.*
9. Have a drink at one of Antipolo viewpoints and see the lights of Manila from the distance.**
10. Take in the beautiful scenery of Laguna de Bay.*
* – Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Saro-Saro sa Kamalig, Tanay
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure
2. Dust Mites. – bring Lysol with you, if you think the hotel room is oldish and not cleaned properly.
3. UV rays – Apply ample sun protection and sunglasses. Ilocos can be pretty humid and searing hot when the sun is out.
4. Dehydration- bring and drink heaps of water!

Getting There

There are jeepneys plying from Shaw Boulevard in Mandaluyong that go through the different towns of Rizal- whether Antipolo, Morong, Angono, Tanay and others. Travel time should be around 45 minutes and an hour depending on the traffic situation and your final destination (Tanay takes about 2 hours by jeepney and costs about PhP50-55 Pesos). There are jeepneys between towns, so it wouldn’t be too hard getting to different towns. For those with private vehicles, the most convenient way is get a road map of Rizal beforehand. The locals are generally helpful in pointing you to the places that you need to go. To go through the waterfalls of Tanay and other areas, you may rent a tricycle to take you and back (PhP400 from Tanay Town Proper to Daranak Falls and back) which is a little too pricey, and a bit unreliable. There are rarely any tricycles coming from Daranak. Your best bet is to take a car or van if you want get off and head towards the unbeaten path. Some roads can be pretty bad- like the one going to Calinawan Cave (there are nary any street signs at all and there are a lot of twists and turns in an area with very thick undergrowth. You may want to check with a local before heading out there. Rizal on its own doesn’t have very convenient tourist information centers- you have better chances of knowing a particular tourist spot by asking tricycle or jeepney drivers in the area which we practically did.