The Las Piñas Bamboo Organ
Photo by Ryan Buaron

The Bamboo Organ is not only appreciated for its uniqueness but also for its history. From 1816-1824 Fr. Diego Cera worked on the Bamboo Organ. He apparently buried the bamboo pipes by the banks of a nearby river for 2 years to cure them before incorporating them into the organ. Sadly, after a typhoon and an earthquake the pipes were damaged and the organ went unnoticed until 1917 when tourists realised how unique the organ was. However, as the organ is one of a kind and the man who built it had died many years before nobody knew how to repair the pipes. Finally in 1972, the entire organ was sent to Bonn, Germany to be restored and in 1975 it returned to St. Joseph Parish Church and a joyous welcome from Filipinos. As the organ is the only 19th century bamboo organ that exists and is still functioning, it was declared to be a National Cultural Treasure of the Philippines in 2003. Since its return Las Piñas has held the annual Bamboo Organ Festival which is now in its 35th year.

St. Joseph Parish Church, Las Piñas
Photo by Ryan Buaron

For the 35th year of the Bamboo Organ Festival a large number of musicians from the Philippines and around the world came to perform alongside this amazing instrument from February 18-24, 2010. I had the pleasure of seeing the organ played by internationally acclaimed organist, Guy Bovet. He started the concert by explaining that since the organ was built by a Spaniard but came from the Philippines, it has a character and a sound which reflects both cultures and proceeded to play both Spanish and Filipino compositions. Bovet’s knowledge of the Bamboo Organ was reflected in his playing as he created moving and astonishing music while demonstrating the range of the organ. During Bovet’s version of Pakitong Kitong we were able to hear one of the things that makes the Bamboo Organ even more unique as it can make a sound like chirping birds. The sound is so realistic many members of the audience were looking around the church expecting to see birds darting around under the lofty ceiling. MSGR. Albert Venus of St. Joseph Parish Church explained to me after the concert that the sound of chirping birds is the result of air moving past water in the bamboo pipes.

As part of Guy Bovet’s concert we were treated to the sounds of a second metal pipe organ at St. Joseph Parish Church which was made in 1995 by Edgar Montiano and Cealwyn Tagle. This organ is also unique as it is the only one in the world made by Filipinos. The sounds made by this organ were quite different and to see the skill and ease Bovet played it with was truly amazing as the organ has foot pedals for the bass notes as well as two keyboards.

Guy Bovet playing the Auditorium Organ
Photo by Ryan Buaron

To experience this exceptional instrument being played by world renowned musical masters it is only a short drive from the centre of Manila to the St. Joseph Parish Church in Las Piñas. The Festival is held every February and is really a must see cultural event in the Philippines. For more information on the festival be sure to check out the official Bamboo Organ website – http://bambooorgan.org/

The official parade
Photo by Scott Allford

The town of Kalibo is thought to have originally been settled by sailors from Borneo back in the early 1200’s. During the making of a peace pact between the local inhabitants (Aetas/Atis) and these settlers, the Borneans smeared soot on themselves to appear more like the Atis as a gesture of friendship. What ensued was a night of singing and dancing to drums and the Ati-atihan (meaning to look like the Atis) was born. When the Spanish came and brought Catholicism, the festival changed to incorporate more Christian features. As a result, in the modern day Ati-atihan you can see statues of the child Jesus being danced with to the sounds of drums and shouts of “Viva!” by participants smeared in black paint and dressed in colourful tribal costumes.

As I got closer to the centre of Kalibo the drums became louder and more infectious. One of the main characteristics of the festival is the drumbeats. Anywhere around Kalibo you can hear them thundering day or night. The festival itself is all around the streets of the town centre. Where exactly it’s hard to say as there is only a planned route on the last Saturday, which is for the official parade and judging. Otherwise, for three weeks, groups of people in elaborate costumes or everyday clothes dance and bounce non-choreographed steps randomly through the streets to the sounds of drums and glockenspiels.

Right after getting settled I headed to the town centre to see what was happening. The noise was amazing, with hundreds of different songs being played by a hundred different groups dancing through the streets. Everyone wore huge smiles in the friendly chaos of the festival. A few times I saw groups of 50 or more people in costumes and drummers make head on collisions as their groups random paths through the streets met, but it only made the participants smiles grow. Somewhere during the afternoon, I had to take a break so I went for a Paeapak, which is where a seminarian rubs a wooden statue of a Sto. Niño or the Child Jesus over points on your head and upper body to revitalise the spirit. I still wasn’t feeling totally revitalised so I made a quick stop by one of the many people with coolers on the road sides and picked up a beer before making my way back into the crowd. After a day of walking the streets there are a number of concerts around the town with local bands and big name Filipino bands playing. I relaxed to some food and a few beers watching some good music before making my way to bed.

A participant in full garb with a figure of the child Jesus
Photo by Scott Allford

On landing at Kalibo airport back in January for the Ati-atihan, I was filled with anticipation. I had read a lot about this festival being the most riotous festival in Asia and had wanted to take part in it since I first arrived in the Philippines. Luckily I know people in Kalibo, so accommodation was not hard to organise, and I booked my flights way back in August to guarantee myself a seat. For most of the year there is not a lot happening in Kalibo, but during Ati-atihan the population swells and the streets fill with people. So it’s smart to plan your trip months ahead.

Paeapak
Photo by Scott Allford

On the day of the official parade I was treated to a seemingly never ending procession of people in colourful costumes and scores of drummers and glockenspiel players. While it is a spectacle to watch, it is a toned down portion of the Ati-atihan as the route is planned and people line the sides of the route to watch rather than just joining in and dancing. I really prefer the joyous chaotic side of the festival. So after the parade I headed into the streets of the town centre to see what I could find. I wasn’t disappointed. A mass of colourful characters abounded. Amidst the dancing people in plain clothes and tribal costumes I found Atis selling potions and charms beside the church, Wonder Woman, two snake men with protruding tongues, a lanky foreigner painted in green with CDs for earrings, and Superman….wearing a diaper.

Superman…..wearing a diaper
Photo by Scott Allford

Then I joined a group with beverage in hand and danced through the streets. Beer showers were everywhere around me, and shouts of “Viva!’ rang out after every turn. Then as we proceeded down a little backstreet someone beside me shot off a Confetti Cannon. Some of the confetti flew into overhead electricity lines and shorted them out. A huge bang followed by glowing blue light emanated from the lines and a really weird buzzing sound filled the air accompanied by a strange burning smell. The crowd and drums fell completely silent and still as everyone watched until the light faded. Then all of a sudden a cheer of “WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!” burst out from the crowd and the drums and dancing started again. After dancing the day away I headed to the school to catch a fireworks display before going off to catch a set by the famous Filipino band Rivermaya before going to sleep to the sounds of drum beats still emanating from the town centre.

The Ati-atihan experience is truly like no other as it is the epitome of good old fashioned fun. Along with this the festival itself is steeped in centuries of history which is unmatched by any other festival in the country. And as the festival has evolved to incorporate the various cultures that have inhabited the town of Kalibo through these centuries, Ati-atihan carries a feeling of the exotic and the familiar at the same time. This is not a festival for sitting back and watching, but rather one for getting in amidst it all and getting carried away by the beat of a thousand drums.

Check out more interesting Philippines Festivals.

This is followed by the display of various colorfully decorated kanggas by local farmers from different villages. A usual kangga displayed includes not only the sled itself but also the farmer’s tools such as the iron plow, scythe, coconut husker, other farm equipment, even the carabaos. These kanggas are blessed by the parish priest to ensure good harvest in the next farming season. The kanggas together with their owners (who are dressed in their best farm costume) are paraded around town to the tune of the brass band. The owners also carry with them various food trays and baskets filled with an assortment of farm produce. At the end of the parade is the heavily decorated kangga of San Isidro Labrador.

After the parade, farmers can also show-off their best and biggest produce in the contests prepared for them. There is also a kangga racing competition, where farmer and beast join forces to reach the finish line and claim their prize.

Check out more interesting Philippines Festivals.

The artistic town of Angono celebrates the feast of Pope St. Clement I every November 22 to 23 of each year. There are times that this coincides with the feast of Christ the King. The celebration starts with the novena mass on the 14th till 22nd day of November, the devotees in prayer and thanksgiving, dance in the church patio after the novena mass. The dancing was accompanied by the Angono band with the the church bell ringing after playing the music.

Higantes Festival: Crowded street of Angono town
Photo by themollyjayne

Higantes Festival
Photo by d2digital

The Bisperas Mayores or the day before the feast day was celebrated with a parade of the marching bands and drum and lyres sponsored by each barangay of Angono, this was held in the morning and early afternoon. The morning parade usually starts in Rainbow Village and ends at the church patio where the devotees again dances in praise and thanksgiving while the marching bands are playing. The afternoon parade are also joined by the higantes, local government officials and employees, commercial establishments in Angono, schools and other Angono socio and civic groups.

Higantes Festival
Photo by aspirecaptured

The celebration on the morning of November 23 starts with a concelebrated mass with the Bishop of Antipolo. The procession follows after the mass with the parehadoras, higantes and devotees joining the image of San Isidro, St. Clement and Blessed Virgin Mary in a procession leading to the banks of Laguna de Bay in Brgy. San Vicente for the fluvial procession, fishes like kanduli, tilapia and bangus which are caught by the fishermen devotees during the fluvial procession are displayed near the image of St. Clement. The images, devotees and member of the band ride the pagoda for the procession in the lake which will end at the other side of the lake in Brgy. Poblacion Ibaba. The road procession again will start with merry making of parehadoras, higantes and wet devotees that will end in the church. Filipino artistry is truly alive in every celebration in Angono.

Higantes Festival
Photo by themollyjayne

Viva Cristo Rey

The feast of Christ the King which was held on the Sunday before the 1st Sunday of Advent usually coincides with the feast of St. Clement. The Viva San Clemente! celebration banners usually includes “Mabuhay ang Kristong Hari !” slogans to remind the people that Christ is the Lord and to proclaim Christ as the King of all nations. This is also a reminder that St. Clement is only a servant of God which somehow does not need adoration of the people because our Lord has already given him the highest honor – a blessing of a Saint – Angono’s patron and inspiration.

Viva San Clemente

Pope St. Clement I was the fourth Pope after St. Peter. He faithfully proclaim Christ during his time and till he was martyred by being thrown into the sea with an iron anchor. The people of Angono celebrate St. Clement’s feast day with a fluvial procession in the waters of Laguna de Bay as a reminder and inspiration of his faith in God.

Higantes of Angono

Higantes – Angono artistry in times of struggle. It was said that the higantes started during the Spanish colonial times, when Angono was once a hacienda and ruled by Spanish hacienderos. The Angono land tillers way of protesting their struggle is by making giant effigy of their landlords whose hands are usually high up on their waist.

Higantes Festival
Photo by themollyjayne

Higantes Festival
Photo by themollyjayne

The body of the traditional higante are made of bamboo and colorful cloth and its faces of paper mache. The three old higantes of Angono consists of the family of giants – the father, mother and child higante, they traditionally add color and fun during the fiesta celebration. It was in the late 80s when the late Angono artist Perdigon Vocalan brought the idea of the Higantes Festival by going out of the traditional family of giants and advocating having more higantes in the fiesta by coordinating with the barangays of Angono to come up with Higantes that will represent their barangay. At present, the Higantes of Angono can be seen in fiesta celebrations around the Philippines and in national cultural presentations, the major being the Centennial Parade in the Quirino Grandstand for the Philippine Centennial celebration in 1998.

PKTan: The higantes are made of paper-mache. Higantes measures four to five feet in diameter and ten to twelve feet in height. Traditionally, it began in the last century when Angono was a Spanish hacienda. This higantes was influenced by the Mexican art form of paper-mache brought by the Spanish priests to the Philippines.

Higantes Festival
Photo by aspirecaptured

Parehadora

The traditional parehadoras are group of young girls holding paddles and wearing bakya or wooden slippers and dressed in a colorful outfit which joins the procession in the feast day of St. Clement. They usually march at the beat of the band playing alongside with them. Now with a dying lake, the tradition of the Parehadora is now just a reminder that Angono was once a fishing village and thrives at the harvest of Laguna Lake.

Higantes Festival Parade
Photo by anton572

Higantes Festival: Children posing
Photo by d2digital

Check out more interesting Philippines Festivals.

Philippines has dozens of festivals and most towns have their own in addition to the national ones. Filipino hospitality is legendary and at no time is it more in evidence than at festival time.

Here’s a list of the ones you should keep a look out for when planning your vacation in Philippines, we will try to cover each festival more extensively in individual articles. The Read more link will direct you there!

PKTan: If i missed out any other interesting festivals, do leave a comment below, and I will try my best to add it in.

Quiapo – Procession of the Black Nazarene

Date: 9th January
The procession, and the accompanying Feast of the Black Nazarene, takes place every year on 9th January. It is usually the single largest festival of the year in the Philippines and thousands of devotees come to the district of Quiapo to take part in the procession to commemorates the transfer of the Black Nazarene image (“traslacion”) from Intramuros to Quiapo Church.

Ati-Atihan

Date: 3rd Sunday of January
The Ati-Atihan Festival is a feast held in honor of the Santo Niño held annually in January concluding on third Sunday, in the town of Kalibo, Aklan in the Philippines. It is the wildest among Philippine fiestas and considered as the Mother of All Philippine festivals. Celebrants paint their faces with black soot and wear bright, outlandish costumes as they dance in revelry during the last three days of this two week-long festival. Catholics and non-Catholics alike observe this special day with processions, parades, dancing, and merrymaking.
Read more on Ati-Atihan Festival

Ati-Atihan Festival
Photo by Kickflickr

Sinulog

Date: 3rd Sunday of January
The Sinulog is an annual festival held on the third Sunday of January in Cebu City, Philippines. The festival honors the child Jesus, known as the Santo Niño (Holy Child), patron of the city of Cebu. It is a dance ritual that commemorates the Cebuano people’s pagan origin, and their acceptance of Christianity. The festival features a street parade with participants in bright-colored costumes dancing to the rhythm of drums, trumpets, and native gongs.

Sinulog Festival
Photo by 2rokbotoy

Dinagyang

Date: 4th Sunday of January
The Dinagyang is a religious and cultural festival in Iloilo City, Philippines held on the fourth Sunday of January. It is held both to honor the Santo Niño and to celebrate the arrival on Panay of Malay settlers and the subsequent selling of the island to them by the Atis. Dinagyang was voted as the best Tourism Event for 2006, 2007 and 2008 by the Association of Tourism Officers in the Philippines.

Dinagyang Festival
Photo by Blueacid

Panagbenga

Date: February
Panagbenga is month-long annual flower festival occurring in Baguio. The festival, held during the month of February, was created as a tribute to the city’s flowers and as a way to rise up from the devastation of the 1990 Luzon earthquake. The festival includes floats that are decorated with flowers unlike those used in Pasadena’s Rose Parade. The festival also includes street dancing, presented by dancers clad in flower-inspired costumes, that is inspired by the Bendian, an Ibaloi dance of celebration that came from the Cordillera region.

Panagbenga Festival
Photo by Whiteknight

Kaamulan

Date: 28th Feb – 1st March
The Kaamulan Festival is a Bukidnon ethnic-cultural festival that takes place from the last week of February to the first week of March. Kaamulan, from the Binukid word amul, “to gather”, is an indigenous Bukidnon term for a gathering for any purpose. It can mean a datukship ritual, a wedding ceremony, a thanksgiving festival during harvest time, a peace pact, or any number of these together. The Festival is held in Malaybalay City from the second half of February to March 10, the anniversary date of the foundation of Bukidnon as a province in 1917,d to celebrate the culture and tradition of the seven ethnic tribal groups—Bukidnon, Higaonon, Talaandig, Manobo, Matigsalug, Tigwahanon and Umayamnon—that originally inhabited the province. It is the only ethnic festival in the Philippines.

Kaamulan Festival
Photo by kleo marlo

Moriones

Date: Holy Week
The Moriones is an annual festival held on Holy Week on the island of Marinduque, Philippines. The “Moriones” are men and women in costumes and masks replicating the garb of biblical Roman soldiers as interpreted by local folks – Morion means “mask” or “visor,” a part of the medieval Roman armor which covers the face. The Moriones or Moryonan tradition has inspired the creation of other festivals in the Philippines where cultural practices or folk history is turned into street festivals.

Moriones Festival
Photo by ompoint59

Maleldo / Cutud Lenten Rites

Date: Good Friday
Every year on Good Friday or the Friday before Easter a dozen or so penitents – mostly men but with the occasional woman – are taken to a rice field in the barrio of San Pedro Cutud, 3km (2 miles) from the proper of City of San Fernando, Pampanga and nailed to a cross using two-inch (5 cm) stainless steel nails that have been soaked in alcohol to disinfect them. The penitents are taken down when they feel cleansed of their sin. Other penitents flagellate themselves using bamboo sticks tied to a rope.
Read more on Maleldo / Cutud Lenten Rites

Maleldo Festival
Photo by ponslizares

Turumba

Date: Between April and May
Every year during the months of April and may, the people of Pakil, in the province of Laguna celebrates the Turumba Festival. It commemorates the seven sorrows of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It is held 7 times each year between the months of April and May. The first is held on the Friday before Palm Sunday and the last falls on Pentecost Sunday.

Flores de Mayo

Date: 1st May – 31st May
Flores de Mayo is a Catholic festival held in the Philippines in the month of May. It lasts for a month, and is held in honor of the Virgin Mary. The Santa Cruzan is a parade held on the last day of Flores de Mayo in honor of Reyna Elena.

Santacruzan

Date: 31st May
Santacruzan is the queen of Maytime festivals. It is a novena procession, in commemoration of Saint Helena’s finding of the cross. Saint Helena was the mother of Constantine the Great. The procession, however, differs from other religious processions in that it does not parade the usual images of patron saints. Instead, biblical and historical characters are represented by the local people dressed in appropriate costumes.

Carabao

Date: 14th May – 15th May
Begining May 14th, the people of Pulilan in Bulacan Province, San Isidro in Nueva Ecija Province, and Angono in Rizal Province celebrate for two days. On the first day, farmers pay pay homage to the beast of burden which is the farmer’s best friend – the lowly carabao. These animals are very important for farmers because they help till the land. Farmers brush their carabaos’ skin until it is sleek and shiny. Then the carabaos are decorated with ribbons and attached to carts. In the afternoon, farmers lead their carabaos to the church square to be part of the procession. At the church, the carabaos kneel for their blessings. On the second day, the carabaos compete in a friendly race.

Carabao Festival
Photo by Susancorpuz90

Pahiyas

Date: 15th May
Lucban celebrates the Pahiyas Festival in honor of the patron saint of farmers, St. Isidore. This festival showcases a street of houses which are adorned with fruits, vegetables, agricultural products, handicrafts and kiping, a rice-made decoration, which afterwards can be eaten grilled or fried. The houses are judged and the best one is proclaimed the winner.
Read more about Pahiyas Festival.

Pahiyas Festival
Photo by stitch

Obando Fertility Rites

Date: 17th May – 19th May
“Santa Clarang pinong-pino, Ang pangako ko ay ganito, Pagdating ko sa Obando, Sasayaw ako ng pandanggo.” The Obando Fertility Rites are a Filipino dance ritual. Every year during the month of May, to the tune of musical instruments made out of bamboo materials, the men, women and children of Obando, Bulacan, Philippines wear traditional dance costumes to dance on the streets followed by the images of their patron saints San Pascual Baylon (St. Paschal), Santa Clara (St. Clare) and Nuestra Señora de Salambao (Our Lady of Salambao), while singing the song Santa Clara Pinung-Pino. The feast days or dance festivals are held for three consecutive days: May 17 for St. Paschal, May 18 for St. Claire and May 19 for the Our Lady of Salambaw. What makes the Obando fiesta unique among Philippine festivals is the dance performed in the streets by the childless women.

Pintados

Date: 29th June
The Pintados-Kasadyaan Festival is a merry-making event lasting a whole month, highlights of which include the Leyte Kasadyaan Festival of Festivals, the Pintados Festival Ritual Dance Presentation and the Pagrayhak Grand Parade. These festivals are said to have begun from the feast day of Señor Santo Niño, held every June 29th. The Leyteños celebrate a religious festival in a unique and colorful way. Since the Visayans are experienced in the art of body tattooing, men and women are fond of tattooing themselves.

Kadayawan

Date: Third week of August
The Kadayawan Festival is an annual festival in the city of Davao in the Philippines. Its name derives from the friendly greeting “Madayaw”, from the Dabawenyo word “dayaw”, meaning good, valuable, superior or beautiful. The festival is a celebration of life, a thanksgiving for the gifts of nature, the wealth of culture, the bounties of harvest and serenity of living.

Kadayawan Festival
Photo by Belarminoed

Penafrancia Fluvial

Date: Third Saturday and Sunday of September
The Peñafrancia Festival in Naga City, Camarines Sur, Bicol Region. During the festivities, people attend church services, followed by parades on the streets, fireworks, and feasting. The ninth day, usually falling on the third Saturday of September, is marked by a fluvial procession. The image of the Virgin Mary is carried on a barge which is trailed by thousands of devotees in boats gliding alongside. People who line the river banks shout “Viva la Virgen! as the Virgin passes by.

Peñafrancia Fluvial Festival
Photo by Sir Mervs

MassKara

Date: 3rd weekend nearest to 19th October
The MassKara Festival is a week-long festival held each year in Bacolod City, the capital of Negros Occidental province. The festival features a street dance competition where people from all walks of life troop to the streets to see colorfully-masked dancers gyrating to the rhythm of Latin musical beats in a display of mastery, gaiety, coordination and stamina. The word MassKara has a double meaning. First, it is a fusion of the English word “mass” or many and “kara”, the Spanish word for “face.” MassKara then becomes a “mass of faces,” and these faces have to be smiling to project Bacolod already known in the late 70′s as the City of Smiles.

MassKara Festival
Photo by Keith Cabillon

Lanzones

Date: 25th October
Each year there is a Lanzones (a small grape-sized tropical fruit) Festival held in October. The week-long festival is one of the more colorful events in the Philippines. The Lanzones festival is celebrating its 30th Anniversary on October 2009.

Lanzones Festival
Photo by Grandmasterson

Higantes

Date: 23rd November
Angono celebrates the “Higantes Festival” which coincides with the Feast of Saint Clement, the Patron Saint of Angono. Higantes Festival is now promoted as tourism-generating event in the country. This attracts numerous tourist from all over the world. The higantes are made of paper-mache. Higantes measures four to five feet in diameter and ten to twelve feet in height. Traditionally, it began in the last century when Angono was a Spanish hacienda. This higantes was influenced by the Mexican art form of paper-mache brought by the Spanish priests to the Philippines.
Read more on Higantes Festival

Higantes Festival
Photo by aspirecaptured

Giant Lanterns

Date: December – Saturday before Christmas Eve
The Giant Lanterns Festival is an annual festival held in December (Saturday before Christmas Eve) in the City of San Fernando in the Philippines. The festival features a competition of giant lanterns. Because of the popularity of the festival, the city has been nicknamed the “Christmas Capital of the Philippines”.
Read more on Giant Lanterns Festival

Giant Lanterns Festival
Photo by ianong

Misa de Gallo

Date: 16th December – 25th December
Traditionally, Christmas Day in the Philippines is ushered in by the nine-day dawn masses that start on December 16. Known as the Misa de Gallo (Rooster’s Mass) in the traditional Spanish and in Filipino as Simbang Gabi, or “Night Mass”, this novena of Masses is the most important Filipino Christmas tradition.

Lucban

Lucban Travel Guide

• Pahiyas Festival
• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

A classic Tagalog quiet farming town that sits on the foothills of the sacred mountain of Banahaw, Lucban literally explodes with a kaleidoscope of colors, gastronomic feasts and religious fervor during the annual Pahiyas Festival, perhaps one of the most festive, most significant and most colorful of all the festivals in the world.

Lucban, 3-4 hours south of Manila, is an upland town in the province of Quezon (one of the largest Philippine provinces in terms of land area), is a bustling community of about 46,000 people. Postcard perfect, this is basically a traditional Southern Tagalog quiet municipality with narrow roads, a bunch of Spanish-era houses and a genteel yet provincial charm framed with the distant shadows of the mighty Mount Banahaw and rolling farmlands in the background.

According to a legend, the town got its name from the Lucban or Pomelo Tree. And so the legend goes, three hunters by the name of Marcos Tigla, Lucas Manawa and Luis Guimba from the town of Majayjay in the neighboring province of Laguna lost their way whilst following the trail of some wild animals and hunting at the foot of Mount Banahaw. While stopping for a rest under a tree, the trio saw a crow and thinking that this was a bad omen, they moved to another location under a large shady pomelo tree. While resting, the three hunters were fascinated with a couple of beautiful singing kingfishers. The superstitious trio thought of the incident as a good sign and decided to settle and name the place as Lucban. The townsfolk accepted this as true and Marcos Tigla became to be the first gobernadorcillo (a petty title similar to a village chief doled out by the Spanish conquistadors) in 1596. After his leadership, the other hunter, Lucas Manawa then took over for four years.

Pahiyas Festival - A family affair
Photo by stitch

Pahiyas Festival

Lucban is pretty much synonymous with the famous Pahiyas Festival, celebrated every 15th of May – and it is this Philippines festival that made Lucban a must-see destination for those exploring the decadently multicultural and multifaceted country that is the Philippines. The festival dates back hundreds of years long before the arrival of the Spaniards and started out as an animistic ritual for the locals to honor their gods for their bountiful harvest and believing that celebrating this great fortune would ensure another bountiful year ahead.

When the Spaniards arrived around the 16th century, the festival was appropriated to suit the Catholic taste (as it was the same with the Kalibo Ati-atihan). The Spanish friars introduced San Isidro Labrador (Saint Isidore) to the natives and shifted the allegiance basically from the animist gods to the Christian God whilst continuing the tradition of thanksgiving and prayers for more abundant harvests to come. The townsfolk started to bring their best harvest to the church for its blessing and later on, with the increasing bounty they started putting it outside their doors instead with the statue of San Isidro going out in a procession.

Pahiyas Festival

With Filipinos being naturally creative, the Lucban townspeople started hanging their harvests on their windows as well and then, the entire façade of their houses along the procession route. You would usually know the trade or industry of a particular house by the decorations themselves – rice stalks – means a rice farming family lives in that house; hats- meant there lives a hat-making family and so on and so forth. Don’t expect a house decorated with lingerie or kinky adult toys here though, however, we kind of had a wistful thought of that while we were strolling along the procession route. The procession route changes each year so that other houses may have a chance of participating in the festival. Giant papier-mache effigies are also paraded around town with a lively brass band, adding to the lovely fiesta atmosphere.

Pahiyas Festival Décor: The most traditional and certainly the most attractive décor comes of course in the form of “KIPING” which are adorn and strung together to form all sorts of shapes, from chandelier called “ARANGYA” to huge flowers.

One iconic Pahiyas decoration is no other than the “kiping”, a colored (and edible) rice paper that is similar to the tacos of Mexico. The Galleon Trade between Manila and Acapulco (Mexico) in the 17th century was a major influence with this Pahiyas icon. A Lucban local by the name of Juan Suarez sailed to Mexico for training of some sorts, and was introduced to tacos in the port of Acapulco. Being a culinary talent, he tried to fashion out his version of tacos upon his return to Lucban using locally available ingredients (water, ground rice, salt and food coloring) – and thus, kiping was born.

Kiping is made by mixing all ingredients with water and pouring the mixture into a “kabal” leaf- a sturdy and wide leaf, while dripping the excess liquid (kipi) and then steaming it for 2-3 minutes. It is then hung up to dry after which you remove the kiping from the leaf to dry on a flat surface. You then put the “buntal” fiber for hanging and then you flatten (kipiin) several pieces by putting a heavy object on top. Kiping eventually became part of the Pahiyas Festival making the festival more colorful than ever – with chandeliers or “arangya” made out of kiping and sunflowers made to decorate the houses along with the vegetables. A drop by the local and surprisingly well-stocked souvenir shop can get you some kiping to take home (which is about PhP75 for six different colored pieces in a box). The kiping is usually deep-fried like prawn crackers and dipped in locally made organic spiked vinegar. It can also be grilled or microwaved and dipped in sugar, cheese powder, sour cream or however you like it.

Pahiyas Festival

In the ‘60s the local word “Pahiyas” meaning decoration was formally added to name the celebration. Each house would compete for the Grand Pahiyas Prize and when the day turns into night, the brightest and the most lighted house wins the “Kutitap Award” – suddenly transforming the entire town into a Christmas village in the middle of May.

The Pahiyas festival usually starts around the morning of the 15th May with a mass in its beautiful centuries old Lucban Church (photo below). The present church actually sits on the ruins of the previous churches on the same site. The first one was built in 1595 and was destroyed in 1629, and a second church was constructed between 1630 and 1640 but was seriously damaged by fire 1738. The present church was completed in 1738 and the convent in 1743. Right by the right side of the church was the site of the La Casa de Doña Ana. It was the site of a big “bahay na bato” (house made out of stone – an architectural style that is usually attributed to the well-off Filipino families as opposed to the “bahay-kubo” – also known as the nipa hut and is usually attributed as the abode of poorer Filipinos). The house, which was owned then by Pedro Nepomuceno Y Villaseñor and Ana Maria Herrera Y de la Concepcion, was built in a neoclassical style a few years after the couple’s wedding in 1842. It was the only house with the neoclassical style in the entirety of Lucban and was the favorite place to stay for prominent guests coming from Manila and neighboring towns. The house was subsequently named in honor of the wife for her role in establishing Hospicio de Pobres de Lucban, a facility taking care of Lucban’s destitute and sick.

The Basilica at Lucban, Quezon
Photo by stitch

What we found strange in Pahiyas was even though there was heaps of free food being handed out in the streets, there were an overwhelming number of beggars (we suspect these people were bused in from a different place as they did not look like they were locals). Touts are everywhere as well, with everything from dyed chicks, garlands and even the local “kesong puti” – cheese made from either goat or carabao milk. And like any place in the Philippines, ugly photos of politicians who were intending to run for public office were conveniently put in place- one, a prominent opposition mayor from a Manila city running for President for the 2010 elections, shamelessly posting his election streamers in Lucban. The streets of Lucban can be pretty crowded with media, local and foreign tourists milling around the procession route. The people of Lucban are generally peaceful, laidback, helpful and friendly so it is not very difficult to get around this tiny town. To go around the festival, start with the church and follow the houses with the decorations- you are basically following the procession route. Always check the Pahiyas Festival website for the route map for the year.

Purple dyed chick

For the religious, another important site for pilgrims in Lucban is the Kamay ni Hesus Shrine (+63.42.5403085 or +63.917.8536267)- a few minutes away from the town proper, and is situated on the slopes of Mount Banahaw and features healing masses. The site features what would be the biggest Christ the Redeemer statue (50 feet) in Northern Hemisphere and second only to the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro in Brazil. It sits on top of a hill with life-size figures depicting the 14 Stations of the Cross. It has a very theme-park feel and is a bit too contrived, with directions on how to go to the “Holy Bath”, to the “Garden of Eden” and to the cafeteria (no good coffee served here) and souvenir shop. We almost half-expected to see someone get crucified for a three-o’clock show. The buildings are boxy and do not have any artistic value, and the statues were basically made of concrete and painted. While I respect the views of the pilgrims who come here, I could not help but think of the place as something out of a Simpson’s TV episode.

Mount Banahaw : It is considered to be sacred by the local residents because of its “holy water” and “puwesto”s, or holy sites. These are composed of natural features with shrines located in or on them, revealed to a man by the “Santo Boses” or Holy Voice.
Photo by Alaundre

For those who want to hike Mount Banahaw, please check with the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (+63.2.9281178) first as the government sometimes closes the mountain to protect it. Usually accompanied with the word mystic, this imposing dormant volcano reaches heights of 7,382 feet above sea level with its last recorded eruption taking place in 1730. It has a 700 foot deep crater and the mid-slope has crystal clear springs that flow down to the town proper of Lucban and other towns nearby. Best place to start your hike though is from the town of Dolores with supplies coming from San Pablo town in Laguna. Mount Banahaw is considered as a holy place for a cult who calls themselves as Rizalistas who gather every Easter at the crater to wash in the “River Jordan” and pray for the rebirth of Jose Rizal. Rumors have it that UFOs were also seen in this area – giving the mountain a spooky and quirky reputation.

For people traveling on package tours such the ones handled by Discover Asia International Travel and Tours, there are side trips to the underground cemetery in Nagcarlan, Laguna offered as well as beaches in nearby Pagbilao (1 hour away) in the Tayabas Bay.

*updated Ryan: 19/11/2009 – Discover Asia International Travel and Tours does not have their best guides anymore, and lately, it has been very difficult dealing with them. I could no longer vouch for the quality of their services.

There are also beautiful Spanish era churches in the city of Lucena as well in the town of Tayabas that are quite pleasant. If you are not spending a night in Quezon, you might as well skip the island hop. The islands were okay but forgettable. The island hop in Tayabas Bay usually includes the Isla Puting Buhangin – a sizable island with a decent small strip of mixed sand and coral beach in a cove. It also a features a tiny cave called Kwebang Lampas where you can wade inside in about 4 feet of water. The boat trip to the island is uneventful (about 20 minutes). The island has a major coal power plant, which is a big turn off. Another nearby island is the Patayan Island (photo above), a small mangrove lined island with a mixed coral and pebbles sandbar that extends quite a long way into the sea. Sand quality on both islands is definitely inferior to that of Boracay and water quality is okay but is also second to Boracay, Palawan or even neighboring Batangas. Trips to the island are usually launched from the resorts on the coast of Pagbilao town. A big disappointment was the Balugbog Baboy or the Bilaran Sandbar. According to local boatmen, the sandbar practically disappeared after nearby resorts and homes quarried the sand indiscriminately, effectively destroying it.

Why Not Go

There are no beaches of any sort in Lucban and none that are close and worth going to either. The town does not have the huge malls that are present in most Philippine cities but it does have quaint stores that have that refined provincial feel.

Why Go

Lucban town itself is full of charm, and the Pahiyas Festival, along with the Kalibo Ati-atihan itself are amongst the most authentic and most colorful festivals in the Philippines. One should not miss the distinct culinary experience Lucban itself offers.

Best Time to Visit

Festival time (Pahiyas Festival, celebrated every 15th of May) is the best time to go to Lucban – although the town itself generally experiences occasional showers and thunderstorms as well as mist descending from Mount Banahaw the entire year. An umbrella always comes in handy in case of a sudden downpour.

Where to Stay

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Whether Lucban is just a daytrip for most people coming from Manila because of the lack of accommodation, it is probably best to contact the Pahiyas Festival website for referrals for places to stay in Lucban. Lucban, like Kalibo in Aklan has a similar boomtown character (although Kalibo does have more places to stay).

The Patio Rizal Hotel (+63.42.5402107) on the main street of Quezon Avenue has 18 rooms with 1 VIP suite and is amongst the most recommended places to stay in Lucban. As a tip, book your room possibly a year in advance if you plan to stay overnight during the festival. It is basically a stone’s throw away from the church where the procession basically starts and ends.

Where & What to Eat

Lucban is a good culinary destination for those who long for dishes with that deep Tagalog touch. Pansit Habhab is the queen of all Lucban dishes – a tasty noodle dish that is made from egg noodles that are sautéed with vegetables, pork, pork liver, and shrimps and is wrapped and eaten on banana leaves. The local government usually sponsors free pansit habhab and gives out free helpings to everyone on the street corners.

Another important Lucban culinary tradition is the Hardinera – Lucban’s version of meatloaf, but is quite different in most cases. It is made from diced pork and vegetables (and sometimes fruits) and then mixed with egg yolks, flour, cream and in some cases even cheese. Unlike meatloaf, it is steamed not baked. It has a curious delicate taste and it does add a perfect balance to the lustier flavor of Pancit Habhab.

Lucban longganisa are Philippine-style sausages

Lucban longganisa (longganisa/langgonisa are Philippine-style sausages) above, are the smaller and the less sour version of their Vigan counterparts but not the less flavorful. It is a good compromise for those who cannot take the sourness and spiciness of the Vigan Longganisa.

Other notable must eats in Lucban are the kesong puti or the Philippine white cheese (which is most usually made by neighboring towns but sold in Lucban – a small block is about PhP50) which is a little tangy and a bit bland but perfect for freshly baked bread in the morning and a glass of brewed coffee; coconut jams; pastillas and yemas (mostly milk-based candies).

While it is best to be eat in one of the houses (usually package tours include buffets in someone’s house), one can also drop by the Abcede’s (+63.42.5402277) which has mainstream Filipino dishes as well as the Lucban specialties.

Lambanog: The Southern Luzon traditional liquor – the Lambanog, made from coconuts. Strong and potent!

Nightlife

Nightlife in Lucban is forgettable save for the Pahiyas Festival nights where drinking and eating are widespread in almost all of the homes.

My to do List

1. Buy a box of kiping to take home.*
2. Take photos of the beautifully decorated houses.*
3. Stuff yourself with delicious Lucban dishes such as the pancit habhab.**
4. Have a taste of Southern Tagalog’s preferred poison – the fiery and potent- Lambanog.*
5. Take home a bunch of the Lucban Longganisa.**
6. Take a sidetrip to the nearby towns.
7. Stroll the streets of Lucban town at night.
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Getting There

If you are not going with a tour group, there are buses going to Lucena City or Sta. Cruz, Laguna from the different bus terminals in Manila (Buendia and Taft Avenues in Manila; Araneta Center in Cubao, Quezon City and along EDSA Kamuning-Kamias). From Sta. Cruz, take a jeepney going to Lucban in a terminal located in Pagsawitan. The jeepney fare should be about PhP38.00. Coming from Lucena City, head out to the Grand Central Terminal or the Crossing- Diversion Road and get on a jeepney bound for Lucban (Fare is PhP25.00).

There are AUVs, SUVs and other commuter vans located near the shopping malls in the south of Manila as well (Alabang, Muntinlupa area) but the fare varies.

Around town, walking is the best way to get around, because well, you don’t have any choice as the procession route is closed off to vehicles. If you are bringing a car, you would have to park it a long way from the town center in designated parking areas.

Celebrated every third weekend of January (Ati-atihan peaks on the last three days but people start dancing on the streets as soon as the New Year’s Day hangover is finished), one can hear the echoes of the drums in the distance the moment one steps on the tarmac of the Kalibo Airport. The entire town center erupts in frenzied, non-choreographed dancing and shouting “Hala Bira! Puwera Pasma!” to the beats of snare drums, bass drums, trumpets, xylophones and a cacophony of other instruments seemingly playing from all the corners of this sleepy little boomtown of Kalibo.

2010 – 798th Kalibo Sto. Niño Ati-atihan Festival Calendar of Activities

Kalibo Ati-atihan, which started as pagan festival gained religious significance when the Spaniards injected Christianity into the celebrations, thus, pictures, images and paintings of the Child Jesus are widespread. Christian traditions have been inserted as well such as the paeapak, where a little statue of the Child Jesus or more commonly known as the Santo Niño are rubbed all over a devotee’s body (this is held at the Kalibo Cathedral all throughout the duration of the festival) and is believed to take away the exhaustion and any ailments of the devotee. A religious procession (with very drunk revelers dancing in the streets with grandma in Mardi Gras garb clutching her own statue of the Child Jesus next to a man dressed in Vampire costume – complete with a stake buried to his heart dancing along with a giant papier mache effigy of a Bornean datu) and a fireworks display cap the entire event.

This spectacular event got so famous that similar festivals were copied all throughout in different cities in the Philippines – Dinagyang of Iloilo, Sinulog of Cebu, and Masskara of Bacolod amongst others. Filipino communities especially in North America stage their own versions of Kalibo Ati-atihan dancing through the streets of New York, Chicago, San Francisco, and Toronto. Even Cayman Islanders got a special treat when Kalibo Ati-atihan participated and eventually won in a competition in the Caribbean island-nation. Travelers to Kalibo are advised to book their hotels and plane tickets at least 2 months in advance as there is a dearth of accommodations during this period.

A food festival on the streets and an agro-industrial trade fair showcasing Aklan’s different arts, crafts, plants, foodstuffs and souvenir items are on display during the week-long festivities while ‘snake-dancing’, which is more like a more complicated, more inebriated and more packed conga line dancing at the Magsaysay Park happens nightly. Think of it like a mix of a New Year’s Eve party, Woodstock mosh pit, A Night in The New Orlean’s French Quarter, a Filipino Fiesta and a crazy Gloria Estefan concert rolled into one. With the thousands of people spilling into the streets, snake-dancing is relatively safe and quite enjoyable if you want your community dancing turned into some kind of contact sport. No report of a stampede has occurred so far, and while Aklan locals are relatively peace-loving people, the influx of people into Kalibo coming from other provinces of course comes with a smart caveat – watch out for your valuables. Wear comfortable shoes (never wear flip-flops and no wearing heels for the ladies especially when snake dancing). That being said, keep your skirts in the closet ladies (although Korean women mindlessly wear them- which I personally think a bit moronic at the very least).

Saturday morning usually is the best time for photographers to catch the best photos for the festival as the competition proper kicks off at around 7 in the morning- you will get fresh takes on the garish, colorful and the most whimsical costumes. Foreign and local tourists can join the parade at any time – and yes, you can play dress up too! Spotted in Ati-atihan is a Scotsman proudly wearing a kilt (and apparently nothing underneath it), an androgynous man/woman entirely painted in gold and in a skimpy bikini, an entire group of men and women painted like snakes, a group of aging local transvestites in full Mardi Gras gear and flags from all the different nations of the world. Other Aklan towns that also celebrate their own versions of Ati-atihan are Batan and Ibajay (late January), Makato (15 January) and Altavas (22 January).

You can see Kickflickr’s Ati-Atihan photos here.

Manila

MANILA INFORMATION

• Manila in 24 hrs
• Best time to visit
• Things to do
• Where to eat
• Top 10 places to eat
• Where to stay
• Getting around Manila
• Getting in and out
• Manila Photos
• Insider tips

Manila is one of the Philippine’s oldest cities, and glimpses of cultures past and present blend together to give you an experience which is sometimes gritty, sometimes pleasant, but unmistakably authentic.

The City of Manila is a sprawling melting pot where you can sample the country’s best offerings, if you know where to look for them. Aside from the usual tourist magnets, there are plenty of offbeat destinations in and around the city to keep you occupied and interested during your stay. If time is not on your side, do check out our Manila in 24 hours guide.

Distinct from the other cities of Asia, Manila is best enjoyed in piecemeal trips. Authentic colonial churches withstand the test of time and are well worth the visit, and the city is at par with the best in Asia in shopping and entertainment. Intramuros and the 150-hectare sprawl around Rizal Park are also essential stops for casual tourists. The local fiestas and fetes are also something to look forward to, and the nightlife in areas like Malate, Pasig, Makati and Libis (within the metro) are an event of their own.

Of course the city has its downsides; as in many third-world countries, poverty is obvious within fifteen minutes from the airport, and the once-beautiful Pasig River has also outlived its best years. If you’re not accustomed to tropical weather, its best to postpone your trip until the months of October to January; the wet-dry climate of the country can be very fickle, humid, and balmy, or otherwise drenching wet. If you’re looking for a laidback experience, the city isn’t for you, but respite is within hours on the outskirts of the metropolis. The traffic problem is moderate compared to other cities, but the pollution is appalling, especially during rush hours; if you have a serious health condition, this relatively congested city can adversely affect your health.

If the weather isn’t a problem for you, anytime is the best time to go to Manila; fiestas of patron Saints are religiously observed around the country, and since each Saint has its own fiesta day, there is something going on in any barangay at any particular time. May is also Flores de Mayo month, and the evening processions of maidens in detailed gowns are a treat for foreigners and locals alike. Consumerism is at its peak during the Christmas season, and you’ll find bargains on practically every shop, but particularly in the infamous Quiapo and Divisoria markets, where many of the pirated (but cheap) buys can be had for a fraction of the cost of their original counterparts.

If you’re not staying with friends or relatives, the first to five-star hotels offer great service at a price, particularly the Manila Hotel located near Baywalk and Rizal Park. There are also plenty of other boarding options which accommodate all budgets: condotels, apartelles, motels, transients, bedspaces, and apartments. Condotels and apartelles are usually decent; just make sure you take a thorough look-see before you rent the place. As for motels, go for the franchised establishments, and with the others, if the terms and the neighborhood don’t feel right, you might as well rent at your own risk.

There’s so much to see and do in Manila! You can sample the city’s bustling nightlife at the upscale Glorietta center in Makati, along bohemian Malate, at Eastwood, Libis, and the resto block on the SM Mall of Asia, a short ride from the Ninoy Aquino International Airport. The dress code is usually relaxed, and you’ll find the bars and restos packed even on weeknights, as night-shift call center employees tend to gravitate to these areas to wind down or prep up for work. Similar watering holes may also be found along Timog and West Avenue in Quezon City, and at the Ortigas Center in Mandaluyong.

Some things you have to try out during your stay: visit the old stone churches (especially UNESCO San Agustin church in Intramuros), view a stage performance at the Cultural Center of the Philippines (on Roxas Boulevard); sample Chinese culture and delicacy at Binondo, Manila’s Chinatown; find great bargains on anything at Divisoria (particularly on 168 mall), bulk fabrics at Baclaran, and at Tutuban mall; watch raucous cockfights at the Libertad cockpit in Pasay; view the superb sunset on Manila Bay along Baywalk, on the cultural grounds around San Isidro, or from the chartered ferry SV Carina which takes an hour-long cruise along the bay; the IMAX experience is also available at the SM Mall of Asia for three-dimensional film offerings.

Some things to remember during your stay: if you’re tempted to take a Kalesa (horse-drawn carriage) tour around the city’s hotspots, make sure that you and the driver are clear on the rate (250 pesos per hour is a good deal); even so, the latter will make excuses and try to increase the fare along the way. Don’t give in – they can be very persistent and even irritating. Also, don’t exchange your currency on the ‘money markets’ such as Santa Cruz; these usually have very appealing (dubious) rates, but the teller will try to scam you by shortchanging the exchange. Hiring cabs from hotels can cost you more than hailing metered ones from the street; insist that the driver turns on the meter before you tell him where to go. It is also normal for you to be frisked, and your belongings searched when entering any major establishment (malls, hotels, even restaurants) – security is a priority in the Philippines, and as discomfiting as it is, get used to it during your stay. Keep your belongings close to yourself in fairly crowded areas (flea markets, railway stations, and even on the sidewalks), and be wary of dubious offers or pleas for help; con men, pickpockets, and snatchers use varied methods of distraction and getaway to their advantage. And you might want to stay away from the city during the wet season (June to November); the traffic and flooded streets can be a gridlock of irate, stranded motorists and commuters.