Tawi-Tawi

Tawi Tawi Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

A charming and majestic chain of islands straddling peacefully between Sulu Sea and Celebes Sea in the southwestern Philippines is the exotic Tawi-Tawi province. Here, you have hundreds of beautiful tropical islands and islets to choose from with unspoiled white-sandy beaches and serene landscapes. From sacred mountain and the rolling hills where the provincial capitol building is located to white-sandy beaches of hundreds of islets plus the gentle and so kind local people, Tawi-Tawi is truly a paradise. And by the way, it is very safe here because the locals from different groups are living harmoniously altogeter.

Tawi-tawi consists of 307 islands in the southwestern part of the Philippines. In fact, the province is a lot closer to Sabah, Malaysia than to Mindanao (where this province belongs). The locals here consist mainly of Tausug, Sinama, and Bajao. There are also coming from nearby provinces of Sulu and mainland Mindanao. They are peace-loving people and they live here harmoniously. Because of the unfair mainstream media, Filipinos and foreigners find Tawi-tawi as a no-go or dangerous destination. What we have heard or seen in the TV news is totally opposite. Tawi-Tawi is relatively safe. The capital town is Bongao.

Sunrise
Photo by Robert

Why Not Go

If you are looking for posh malls, bars, clubs and all night fun in street parties just like in Manila or other big Philippine cities, this is not a perfect destination for you.

Why Go

Tawi-Tawi has a lot to offer to travelers whether group or solo traveler. If you love mountain climbing, they have it here. Standing so proud in Bongao Island is the Bud Bongao which is considered as a sacred mountain by the locals.

They have beautiful beaches and the province is perfect for island hopping to nearby islands such as Simunul where the first mosque in the Philippines was built.

It is quite interesting that the locals here are from different groups such as Tausug, Sinama, Bajao, and other groups from Mindanao and they are living peacefully and harmoniously. These people love to talk with the outsiders. You’ll become an instant rockstar in here.

Sunset
Photo by Robert

Best Time to Visit

This province is not located along the typhoon belt of the Philippines, thus visiting here can be done all year round. But since this tropical archipelagic province is located between Sulu Sea and Celebes Sea, rains may fall at any given time but lasts only for a short period of time which is common to tropical places surrounded by waters.

Where to Stay

Save up to 75% on hotels in Philippines

I stayed at Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant. The good thing in this hotel is that it is just a walking distance from the town center but away from the hustle and bustle. Standard room costs PhP 850 per night. You can reach them at 068-268-1248 for reservation. Tricycle fare from here to the town center (if you don’t want to walk) is only PhP10.

One can try also Beachside Inn (068-268-1446) but it is a lot farther from the town center. Tricycle fare from the town center up to here is PhP20. I went here one night for a beer or two. They have barbeque choices here as well as karaoke. This is where the locals hangout for the night because of the breezy ambiance as it is located by the beach. I was able to talk to the owner and she asked me to try their place to stay the next time I come to Tawi-Tawi.

Bongao Town Center
Photo by Robert

Where & What to Eat

If you want to try local Tawi-Tawi foods such as sati, you can go to any eating places at the town center or near the pier. One can also find Malaysian food here such as nasih goreng. But I don’t recommend the eating places here because of not-so-clean location. The main drawback in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi is trash. There are many litters along the streets of Bongao. I hope that the locals here would work hand in hand for the cleanliness of their surroundings. I believe that cleanliness begets tourists, tourism begets job, and job begets better life. For sure, Tawi-Tawi will become a perfect paradise if there are no trashes around.
I highly recommend the foods at Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant.The Beachside Inn has tasty and delicious barbeques as well.

Nightlife

Although the dominant religion here is Islam, one can find alcohol here. I spent my night at the Beachside Inn for a beer or two and it is also the best place to see and to be seen during the night.

My to do List

• Climb the Bud Bongao – Wherever you are in Bongao or Sanga-Sanga islands, this sacred mountain catches your attention. It’s like a head-turner in this side of Tawi-Tawi. According to the locals, you have never been to Tawi-Tawi if you have not climbed Bud Bongao. From the town center or wherever your hotel is, just hire a tricycle and tell the driver to drop you off at the jump-off point of Bud Bongao and pay him PhP25. Climbing here is so easy. It takes only up to 1 hour going up to the summit since this mountain is not that tall. You have to make sure that you have a good-grip type of footwear, endurance, and don’t forget to bring bananas with you because you will encounter macaque monkeys along the way up. These bananas will serve as your gift to these cute monkeys. These monkeys are said to be the guards of this sacred mountain. One strange thing here, you will never encounter them again on your way down. Once you are at the summit, your eyes can capture the nearby islands such as Sanga-Sanga island with its airport runway as well as the outline of Sabah, Malaysia during clear sunny day. Essential things to bring here are bananas for the monkey and a liter or two of bottled water for you. Just wear light clothes and a good-grip type of footwear. For those who hates the extreme heat of the sun at the peak of this mountain, you may want to bring bullcap or pashmina shawl with you.

Bud Bongao
Considered as a sacred mountain by the locals
Photo by Robert

Cleanliness is Next to Godliness
A friendly reminder written in Tausug dialect with English translation. Tausug is one of the dialects spoken here. Others are Sinama, Cebuano, Chavacano, and Bahasa.
Photo by Robert

Bud Bongao Summit
From here, one can see the runway of the Sanga-Sanga airport. It’s a perfect place for plane spotting. On a very clear day, the outline of Sabah Malaysia can be seen from this point. The islands of Simunul, Sibutu, Sitangkai, and smaller ones are very visible.
Photo by Robert

• Stroll at the Chinese Pier (locally known as jambatan) – You will see several boats dock at the pier. These boats transport people, goods and animals from one island to another. I was able to talk to friendly locals here and they said that they have the so-called “back-door boat” that can transport them to Malaysia illegaly. They do this to find a better life there and could send money back home. The pay to this boat can range from PhP1500 to PhP3000. They don’t even bring their passport with them because they don’t go through to Malaysian Immigration control. Once at the port of call in Malaysia, they will be disembarked stealthly by the boat operators. The chance of getting caught by the Malaysian police is so high. That is why many of our fellows return to Tawi-Tawi empty handied and back to their real lives here.

Houses on stilts
Photo by Robert

Chinese Pier
Photo by Robert

• The Provincal Capitol – This capitol has a unique image because it looks like a mosque. It is located at the Capitol hill. It is better to go up here in the afternoon up to early evening as the backdrop of the town center lights add to the magnificent view from here. From the Capitol building, you will see the sprawling town center of Bongao as well as the nearby islands of Sanga-Sanga, Pababag, and Simunul. Just hire a tricycle and tell the driver to drop you off at the jump-off point going to the Capitol. Fare is PhP15 from the town center.

The Provincial Capitol of Tawi-Tawi
Photo by Robert

• Island hop to Simunul Island – It is where the first mosque was built and Islam was established by Sheik Makdum.

• Talk to the locals – As I have mentioned previously, the locals are from different groups but they live peacefully and harmoniously. They are so friendly and they love to talk with the outsiders. You will become an instant rockstar here.

Stay Away From

Crimes, whether big or small, happens anywhere in the world. So, be vigilant to your surroundings where ever you are. In Tawi-Tawi, I never felt unsafe in any situation. Again, it is only due to the unfair news report spread by the mainstream media that created bad images to this southwesternmost province of the Philippines. It’s more fun in Tawi-Tawi because it is very safe here.

Getting There

Thanks to Cebu Pacific and Airphilexpress, getting to Tawi-tawi is now a piece of cake unlike before. Years ago, one had to take almost an entire day for a boat ride from Zambonga to here. Even though these boats are still another option, the best pick to go to Tawi-Tawi is by airplane which takes only 45 minutes from Zamboanga. By the way, there is no direct flight between Manila and Tawi-Tawi. One has to catch first a flight to Zamboanga. Zamboanga can be reached by plane from any large cities in the Philippines such as Manila, Cebu, and Davao. The flight between Zamboanga and Tawi-Tawi is only 45 minutes and the plane lands at Sanga-Sanga Airport.

Sanga-Sanga Airport Terminal
Photo by Robert

At the airport, there are tricycles waiting for the passengers. It is better to contact your hotel beforehand if they have an airport-hotel transfer, otherwise you may want to take the tricycle that will cost you PhP100. Tricycle ride from airport (which is in Sanga-Sanga Island) takes 10 to 15minutes to get to the town center of Bongao (in Bongao Island). In Bongao, the mode of transportation is tricycle in which the regular fare is PhP10 while boat is essential by going to other island municipalities. There are no taxis here.

Guest Writer: My name is Robert L. Mamacos. I am an engineer by profession (Electronics & Communications Engineer). Currently, I work in an American engineering firm in Ortigas Center. I love travelling and I am a backpacker. I have been to USA, Japan, China, Taiwan, Italy, Netherlands, most of Southeast Asia, and almost the entire Philippines as well. I was born and raised in Davao City. Now I live in Manila since 2002.

Getting from A to Bee. It’s more fun in the Philippines!

Why it is more FUN in the Philippines?
Our Aussie columnist Scott Allford tells SBS Radio Australia.

Video: #ItsMoreFunInThePhilippines

The new campaign of the Philippine Department of Tourism intrigued travellers from all over the world as Internet memes of “It’s More Fun in the Philippines” spread like wildfire on social media. On Generation X, Y, and Us, Australian traveller, Scott Allford, talks about what makes the country, indeed, more fun. Young Filipinos also share their thoughts on what’s hot and what’s not in the Philippines.

Yoga. It’s more fun in the Philippines!

Getting high. It’s more fun in the Philippines!

Close encounters. It’s more fun in the Philippines!

Sunrise. It’s more fun in the Philippines!

A sunset Cruise. It’s more fun in the Philippines!

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Asian in looks, with mixtures of Chinese and Malay with some little Spanish, Filipinos may have features ranging from chinky eyes (as how the locals call for those eye slits that Chinese are famous for – yes like mine), to big round eyes similar to the Malays and mix of brown and yellow skin. One thing which is frequent here though is that most Filipinos have small frames and low in stature, I felt immediately at home here being of somewhat similar, I have to admit. In fact, many here commented I look like a Filipina, and most people I met will converse with me in Tagalog (their local national language) naturally for the first time and I had countless taxi drivers insisting I look deceptively like a local. Maybe that is how I get to blend in easily, something I am quite thankful for.

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“There are Starbucks everywhere here!” I exclaimed as we walk passed one at an obscure highway stop.

“Yes, because we Filipinos,” B started explaining “want to live the American dream”

There is no doubt that many, if not all, Filipinos that have the American dream, and why not? In land of America it seems that anything is possible, it is where dreams go and be realized. It was said that long time ago, Philippines nearly became a part of America, just that war happened and the rest as they say, is history. Nevertheless, I do meet a lot of Filipinos who their heart is strongly rooted in their own homeland, who would willingly stay and grow the country, but sadly there are even more that look at, live by and dream of America.

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As you can see, as how Carlos Celdran aptly puts it, Filipinos are a mixture of sorts – Spanish in name, Asian in looks but American at heart, just like its most famous dessert halo-halo which literarily means mix-mix.

Chow’s King Halo-halo @ Manila, Phillippines
Photo by Rachel

This icy dessert had reminded me of my Malaysian Ais Kacang, minus the the kacang (no kidding), where there is shaved ice drenched in condensed/evaporated milk or just milk and sugar and then mix in with various ingredients of sorts. The usual suspects are red mung beans, sugar palm (kaong), coconut sport (macapuno), jackfruit strips, purple yam (ube) paste, crushed young rice (pinipig), leche flan and caramelized banana. Some even say that it is not complete without a dollop of ube (yam) ice cream, and only ube flavour for the authenticity!

As we can see even the ingredients are mixtures of culture of red mung beans from the Chinese, leche flan from the Spaniards and shaved ice from the Americans (source from Wikipedia). From my 100 days stay there, I learn that, as ironic as it may sound, being a mixture of sorts and of no distinct identity is what makes Filipinos unique. Just like how the mixture of halo-halo that sort of make you think that the dessert couldn’t make up its mind on what it wants to be that makes it so uniquely delicious.

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One of the best authentic original halo-halo I tried (with nearly all the ingredients mentioned above) turns out to be from one of the famous chain restaurants in the Philippines – Chow King. (first picture above)

Chow King
Almost everywhere in Metro Manila and beyond!

Razon’s Halo-halo @ Manila, Phillippines
Photo by Rachel

Another variation of halo-halo (picture above), stripped down to nearly bare naked of essentials – leche flan, macapuno (coconut sport) and caramelized banana, was truly a league of its own for its really smooth shaven iced doused in creamy sweet milk and its minimal critical ingredients.

Razon’s of Guagua
Scattered around Metro Manila

Guest Writer: Three months stint in Philippines, Rokh has almost eaten Philippines, or at least Manila for that matter. Being a country so small in size geographically, yet so highly populated by people, she manage to eat lots of varieties of food all packed in a small area. Good things do come in small packages as it seems. Rokh enjoys Philippines very much for their cultures and food of many influences due to its history, starting from their own indigenous cuisine which was later laden with Spanish influences, which also extend sideways to Chinese influence, and then onwards to American influences and finally came to a mixture of what we have now. She sees Philippines as a mix-mash of culture and food, from deep set of respect for history and family values to modern embrace of the new millennium. Rokh is from the Malaysia Food Guide blog – thamjiak.com

If there is one place in the Philippines where you can truly experience it all, Camarines Sur will not disappoint. Home to the world re-known CamSur Water Sports Complex, Camarines Sur is quickly becoming the new Borocay and the province has the statistics to prove it. It was ranked the number one tourist destination in the country by the department of tourism in the first half of 2009. Not only can you experience every water sport imaginable in one world class facility, but “CamSur” is also home to numerous eco-tourism adventures and the beauty and tranquility of the spectacular Caramoan Islands. The Caramoan Islands were made famous as the filming location of the hit reality television series, “Survivor.”

Believe it or not, despite the CamSur tourist’s typical affinity with water, there is plenty to see in-land as well. The city of Naga plays host to numerous festivals, historic cathedrals and for a little retail therapy, SM City Naga. But perhaps Camarines Sur’s best kept secret lies in a place where the unsuspecting tourist would least expect. Imagine a place where you can relax in the natural wonders of the country while immersing yourself in the spirit of the Bicolano people. Imagine a place where people bring to life century old traditions that will reconnect you with traditional Filipino culture. Imagine a place where you could come as a visitor but leave as family.

I let my imagination run wild and my dream became a reality when I discovered two Gawad Kalinga villages located in different areas of Camarines Sur. (Gawad Kalinga is a community development model and social movement founded in the Philippines.) One site was located right in the heart of the countryside of Libmanan while the other was located in Iriga boasting spectacular views of Mt. Iriga. Each village features a world-class bed and breakfast facility. These units serve as a means of livelihood for the community. What I love about this concept is that while touring for my own pleasure, I can contribute in a positive way to benefit the local community. Each location was an excellent base to enjoy the local and surrounding area. The Gawad Kalinga villages offer a unique opportunity for potential guests to have an intimate encounter with the locals and culture. At each village I was greeted with a warm smile and a welcome drink.

Set deep in the Bicol countryside is the Gawad Kalinga Pona village in Libmanan. A 20 pesos van ride will have you there in only 45 minutes from Naga. As you live in community with the people of the village, you are exposed to daily life in a way that no hotel can offer. Numerous activities offer enough variety to suit any taste from learning how to cook traditional Bicolano dishes, to participating in traditional farming. Some visitors may simply enjoy interacting with the children. You might also enjoy learning how to make hand made flowers or hand bags out of recycled materials. My personal favourite was fishing in the village’s tilapia pond where your catch will be cooked to your preference – grilled or fried. For those wishing total relaxation and pampering, the locals in Libmanan are even trained to provide hair cuts, massages, or manicures. I enjoyed relaxing on my private deck breathing in the fresh country air – a stark contrast for those who live in metro Manila. Don’t think for one second that when the lights go down that the action stops. That’s when nature comes alive in the country and visitors to Libmanan are treated to the natural wonder of fireflies lighting up the night sky. Once you’ve had your fill of country life, try a change of scenery in Iriga.

Sitting high atop a peak overlooking Mount Iriga, you will find the bed and breakfast suites at the Gawad Kalinga Character village. There is nothing more refreshing than waking up to an awe inspiring view as you sip your morning cup of coffee. All meals are special in this village not just because they come with a view but because they are prepared table side. Like Libmanan, there are plenty of opportunities to experience the Phillipines in a way that most traditional establishments cannot provide. The village is perched on a slope and beautifully landscaped offering one of a kind photo opportunities. You could try learning some of the local Bicolano dialect or just enjoying the view with the locals. The site is ideal for a mountain retreat getaway for couples or as a base to explore the surrounding area. Camarines Sur offers numerous eco-tourism activities including bird watching, natural hot springs, waterfalls, and mountain trekking. On the other side of Mt. Iriga near the Gawad Kalinga village is Lake Buhi. The lake is home to the world’s smallest edible fish, the sinarapan. The village is a van ride away from Naga and won’t cost more than 60 pesos.

Gawad Kalinga Luzon

What I loved about staying in these villages beyond the intimate encounters was the tremendous value offered. One night in your own private unit including breakfast in the morning starts at just 750 pesos for two people and many of the activities are included as well. It’s almost like being at an all inclusive resort. The bonus is the people. Only in Gawad Kalinga villages can you expect to be randomly invited into people’s homes. This is where the cultural exchange and story telling occurs. I was so touched and humbled when I was invited into a family’s home for the first time. Although they had so little of their own, they insisted on offering me refreshments and treating me like a prince. That’s an experience that even Shangri-la can’t match!

Most vacations are full of transactional encounters, but this vacation transformed my life forever. Whether your interests are dolphin watching, historic cathedrals of Naga or wake boarding at the CamSur Watersports Complex, the Gawad Kalinga villages make an excellent home for your stay in Camarines Sur. Where else can you arrive as a visitor but leave as family? It’s often said that people don’t remember the places they visit, but they always remember the people they meet. I will always remember the people that I encountered at the Gawad Kalinga villages. At one site, the people of the village dropped what they were doing and walked me to the highway to join me as I waited for a van to Naga. As I looked back at their smiling faces waving to me as I departed, I realized that this is the true spirit of mabuhay and the Filipino culture at its best.

Guest Writer: Darryl Wilson has a passion for travel and other cultures of the world having visited numerous countries including England, Scotland, Iceland, Greece, Spain, Italy, Malaysia, Thailand, India, and the Philippines among others. As a half-Filipino, the Philippines holds a special place in Darryl`s heart. He is committed to helping the Philippines rise out of poverty through tourism development. Darryl is currently in the process of setting up a non-profit organization in Canada to support work in the Philippines.

The Philippines is receiving an extreme makeover. Slums that once dotted the landscape are being transformed into bright colourful villages for the poorest of the poor. The cultural revolution that I discovered is what the Filipinos call “Gawad Kalinga” which translated into English means, “to give care.”

The formula is simple: less for self, more for others, enough for all. Rather than taking more of what you don’t need, give back so that others may have a chance to make something of themselves for their country and their family. Furthermore, nobody gets left behind. All Filipinos are being challenged to give back to their home country so that the poor may have an opportunity at a life of privilege as well and foreigners are being challenged to help the effort. With the help of its supporters, Gawad Kalinga is providing values formation and building thousands of villages in the Philippines and around the world to provide homes to the countless homeless families plagued by poverty.

After years of oppression and continued government corruption, 70% of the 85 million residents of the Philippines still live in poverty. Ironically, in a global survey conducted in 2005, Filipinos came out among the world’s happiest people. Looking through North American eyes, one might believe that such statistics must be incorrect. Afterall, when many North Americans spend their lives chasing material pursuits or the “American” dream in the pursuit of happiness, who could imagine that a country so poor could be so happy?

As a half-Filipino, I was so touched by this unique Filipino-made solution to poverty that I was inspired to retrace the roots of my heritage and journey to the Philippines to devote 6 months volunteering for the cause. When I arrived at the village where we would spend part of our 6 months, there was an immediate connection to the families who welcomed us so warmly. It was a humbling thought that even though these people came from such humble means, had little money and few possessions that they would welcome us to stay in their small homes, share their food and their lives with us. The families were quick to share stories of the struggles and pain of the past and how Gawad Kalinga changed their lives. Stories were shared of life in the slums: sleeping on cement floors infested with cockroaches, meals of only salt mixed with a bit of rice, and leaky roofs that would flood homes during downpours of rain. Men shared stories of how they lost their dignity and confidence because they could not provide for their families. At no point did they blame anyone for their pain. Despite the suffering by these people, there was something I noticed that transcended the darkness in their lives. It was an overwhelming feeling of happiness because although the people did not have enough to satisfy their basic needs, as long as they had their families, there was joy. It was at that point that I realized I was standing in the richest country in the world.

Gawad Kalinga

To the Filipino, family is more important than material wealth. I knew that it was the power of the family as an institution that held these people together in times of great struggle and adversity. No matter how poor they were, the love and joy that they shared as a family could never be taken away from them. For the first time in my life, I felt that I truly experienced what it means to have quality family time and it was all found in the simple pleasures of life found in nature. It was a stark contrast to the material world that many North Americans hide in to shield themselves from their brokenness. Many people blame the poor for being poor. Some attribute it to laziness but more often than not, poverty is caused by a failure of society to give those less fortunate a chance at what everyone else enjoys. Instead of giving others a chance, we are conditioned to take more than we need.

During my six-month stay in the Philippines, I will be working with the people of the GK Villages to help develop tourism as a means of livelihood in their communities. I will also be meeting and living with many of the families and documenting their stories to share with others. The work will continue until poverty around the world is eradicated, values are formed and slums no longer exist. Nobody will be left behind. If we work together to teach people to fish, they will be able to feed their families for life.

Read part 2 of the Gawad Kalinga experience – Gawad Kalinga Experience in Camarines Sur

Guest Writer: Darryl Wilson has a passion for travel and other cultures of the world having visited numerous countries including England, Scotland, Iceland, Greece, Spain, Italy, Malaysia, Thailand, India, and the Philippines among others. As a half-Filipino, the Philippines holds a special place in Darryl`s heart. He is committed to helping the Philippines rise out of poverty through tourism development. Darryl is currently in the process of setting up a non-profit organization in Canada to support work in the Philippines.

Somehow this line make me relent, at times some taxi man are rude in asking for more money on top of their meter, but this one just tells me honestly why he needs it. Maybe it is just how frankly he tells me why he needs that extra. So I just said “OK!”

It is not always like this in Manila, I have many times met more kindness than I can ever have expected, once a taxi man said I can pay whatever amount I seem fit since the destination I went to was just so near, it caught me off guard, but I paid as how much I think is right with tips to boot.

I find that I actually enjoy tipping, after living a life of an ‘expat’ (some of them refer me as that though I don’t feel such as that word makes one think of extravagance life but trust me it is not),but still new habits are learnt when one is in a foreign land. I never tip when I was in Malaysia, I guess somehow it doesn’t seem like the culture to me then but as the saying goes, when in Rome, do what the Romans do. I have learnt here that not many are that well off, many earn their wages through sheer hard work and many of them are in the service industries. So if the restaurant does not charge for service (most of them do not), then I would leave some tips so that the servers could earn a more decent income. Besides, at most places the service is good, I am always greeted with a smile, and they are mostly attentive and genuine.

Food I must say though there are hits and misses, but who am I judge when I have only been to only so few of them, many good ones still uncovered I believe. In the metropolitan area which are dominated with few chain restaurants, it is quite hard to avoid them (being one who always think that chain restaurants are just a small step away from ‘fast food’), some did disappoint but many does surprises you with their good food and how they have maintained the quality despite the huge expansions and the some for even the longest time of existence. I guess this is just how Filipinos show their fidelity, if the food is good, they will keep returning to it religiously, thus allowing a selected few chain restaurants to boom across the metropolitan faster than you can say “Sarap!” (means delicious in Tagalog) This is after all the country where their home-grown fast food chain, Jollibee (just love the catchy name) out beats McDonald by a seriously high margin; at nearly every corner that you turn, you will see the happy bee with a chef hat smiling at you.

Nevertheless, I have in fact tried quite a number of local dishes, many times in various restaurants, just to find them differ slightly (sometimes widely) from one another, and then on to find my favourites among them. So let me introduce you to them slowly, each food that the locals here enjoy day in and day out and where to get the best of them and what varieties you may just find (mind you some or most of them would be coming from the said chain restaurants, I guess they are a chain for the same reason?). First let me start with a dish, as you all know me, the one who praises the pork relentlessly, would of course start with one which is the pork sisig.

Pork Sisig
Photo by Rachel

Pork sisig is one of the well known pulutan (food to go with drink), where normally people order when they are out having a beer or some alcohol. It was said to reduce the impact of alcohol on the stomach and the name itself actually meant to be ‘taken in small quantity’. But as for me, I ordered it anyway as appetizer or main meal even, because I simply love it. There are two groups of pork sisig lovers, those who love the crunchy ones while those on the vice versa, for me I belong to the former group. I just love to have a crunch on my pork sisig but nevertheless I do enjoy the other types too. Pork sisig would serve better to those who don’t really know what it is made of, but just if you are brave enough read on now else skip to the next paragraph, you have been warned! It is made of chopped pig’s head (hair removed and tenderize and yes entire head!), then boiled and grilled/broiled then finally fried with chopped onions and served on a sizzling platter with vinegar and kalamansi juice (Asian lime).

Normally they like to serve the pork sisig at the last cooking part where they would ‘fry’ the mixture in front of you on the sizzling pan, even sometimes cracking a raw egg over and cook it along. Once served, you can then squeeze over the kalamansi to taste yourself and voila, you would have a perfect crunchy pulutan or simply a good dish to go along with your rice.

For my favourite crunchy pork sisig:
Krocodile Grill
Greenbelt 3
Esperanza St., Ayala Center
Makati City, Metro Manila
Other branches

A cross between the crunchy and the soft, a lot of people’s favourite:
Gerry’s Grill
Glorietta 5
Level 2, Ayala Center,
Makati City, Metro Manila
(02)856-4443, (02)856-3544
Sunday to Thursday 11am – 12midnight
Friday and Saturday 11am – 2am
Other Branches

Another pork sisig with a twist, added with mayonnaise but nonetheless uniquely tasty:
Giligans ‘s Island Restaurant and Bar
Greenbelt 1
Esperanza St., Ayala Center
Makati City, Metro Manila
Other branches

Guest Writer: Three months stint in Philippines, Rokh has almost eaten Philippines, or at least Manila for that matter. Being a country so small in size geographically, yet so highly populated by people, she manage to eat lots of varieties of food all packed in a small area. Good things do come in small packages as it seems. Rokh enjoys Philippines very much for their cultures and food of many influences due to its history, starting from their own indigenous cuisine which was later laden with Spanish influences, which also extend sideways to Chinese influence, and then onwards to American influences and finally came to a mixture of what we have now. She sees Philippines as a mix-mash of culture and food, from deep set of respect for history and family values to modern embrace of the new millennium. Rokh is from the Malaysia Food Guide blog – thamjiak.com

Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz
Photo by bikoy

Located in an area of just about 1 square kilometer right in the heart of the city of Manila, Binondo bustles daily with trade and commerce which the Chinese are known for and it culminates thousands of years of Filipino and Chinese relations dating back to the Ice Age when tribes from Southern China are known to have reached the Philippines through the land bridges. During the Spanish period, Governor General Luis Pérez Dasmariñas created Binondo as a permanent settlement for the Sangleys (Spanish term for the Chinese derived from the Hookien “siong-tay” which literally means “often comes”), converted Chinese immigrants, across the Pasig River from Intramuros where the Spaniards lived. This was meant to replace the Parian where the unconverted Chinese resided. It was under the Dominicans who rapidly proselytized the population to Catholicism and through intermarriages, a new Chinese mestizo class was born. The assimilation of the immigrant Chinese into the fabric and lifeblood of Philippine history is now complete. It was said that the Filipino-Chinese (also called Chinoy/Tsinoy) are the most assimilated Chinese community in Southeast Asia. Out of these Binondo intermarriages came St. Lorenzo Ruiz, the First Filipino Saint – Binondo Church is officially named Minor Basilica of St. Lorenzo Ruiz. A visit to Binondo is never complete without dropping by the church whose original façade survived the massive carpet bombing of Manila by the Americans during World War 2. Check out the floor whose stone bricks curiously come with Chinese characters by the main entrance of the church, these were apparently tombstones of graves in China brought to the Philippines and sold by the enterprising Chinese. Another prominent Chinese mestizo of Binondo is the Venerable Mother Ignacia del Espiritu Santo who is the founder of the first congregation for Filipino women.

Minor Basilica of San Lorenzo Ruiz and Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz
Photo by webzer

The syncretism of both the Catholic and Buddhist religion is still evident today in Binondo. Just on the corner of Ongpin and San Nicolas Streets is a shrine by the wall of a building called Santo Cristo de Longos where a cross is adorned by garlands of sampaguita (jasmine) and a jar where incense sticks are burned by devotees and curious passersby. According to stories, the site was a former well, and there was a deaf-mute Chinese whose speech was restored after finding an image of a crucified Christ on the shrine’s very spot.

Santo Cristo de Longos
Photo by themollyjayne

Binondo was the main center of commerce in the Philippines before the last World War where Spanish Filipinos, Chinese and the Chinese mestizos conducted business and finance complete with banks, insurance companies and financial institutions from the United States and Great Britain. During the Spanish era, the Chinese in the Philippines were a major lynchpin in linking the Chinese junk trading system and the Silk Road to Acapulco (Mexico) and to the rest of Europe through the two and a half century Galleon Trade. That said, the Chinese in the Philippines were the backbone of the Spanish colonial economy. Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) opened their first Philippine branch in Binondo in 1876 taking advantage of the booming Philippine sugar industry while financing infrastructure projects like railways which connected the rest of Luzon to Manila. Escolta, nicknamed as the “Wall Street of the Philippines” was then the equivalent of Ayala Avenue in Makati now. A stroll through the Escolta today still reveals some of its former glories, while in Escolta, don’t forget to drop by the Escolta Museum which is located on the mezzanine floor of Calvo Building where you can have a glimpse of fin de siècle Escolta and its vicinity through old photographs, newspaper articles, advertisements, vintage bottles and scale models of existing and non-existing buildings located along the short thoroughfare along the Pasig River. A replica of an entire row of Escolta was built in the Ciudad Acuzar in Bagac, Bataan.

Binondo Street
Photo by thesecondbest

The belfry of Sta. Cruz Church from Escolta
Photo by via

Binondo: The Dragon of Manila
Photo by aspirecaptured

The El Hogar
Photo by bleeding_smile_in_front_of_you

Jones Bridge at Night
Photo by d2digital

Filipino Chinese Friendship Arch
Photo by themollyjayne

Good Luck!
Photo by themollyjayne

During the Marcos Regime, the Philippines suffered a major financial crisis around the early ‘80s. The Bangko Sentral ng Pilipinas (Central Bank of the Philippines) was found to be broke, the national treasury plundered to dust. Binondo earned the moniker “Binondo Central Bank” as businessmen in the district engaged in a massive US dollar black market which often dictated the actual movement of the Philippine Peso against the American Dollar. To get Marcos off their backs, the Chinese businessmen readily acceded to ‘requests’ of the regime to infuse fresh funding into its drying coffers. Today, despite its gritty façade, Binondo remains to be one of the major centers of commerce in the country.

Eng Bee Tin
Photo by Jsinglador

The Purple Fire Truck
Photo by Dave Ryan

Like other Chinatowns in other parts of the world, Binondo is also known for tastiest Chinese cuisine in the entire metropolis. My personal favorites are located along the tiny alley called Carvajal Street where we would sometimes head out to eat the most savoury Chinese dishes for lunch when I used to work in a bank nearby. During my last visit with Carlos Celdran, performance artist and tour operator, the Stone Lion Food Haus wasn’t around anymore but the row of other Chinese restaurants and the stalls of fruits and other foodstuffs still exist on this street. Carvajal is also known for its Hookien name Ho Sua Hang or Umbrella Alley as the street used to be famous for shops selling umbrellas. Another area of major culinary interest would be the bigger but equally busy Ongpin Street. The Estero (literally meaning estuary as the area is located by a creek) is a Binondo institution where a row of eateries conduct their daily business of feeding its many regular customers. Breaded pork chop is one of the most famous dishes here for being delicious and cheap. Another personal favorite is Mr. Ube Rice and Noodle House, owned and managed by the same people of the famous Eng Bee Tin, which serves yummy Asian dishes like Singaporean Laksa which is definitely worth a try. The Lechon Macau Rice Topping (Deep Fried Pork Belly) was a little bland but was good enough for me. A part of the proceeds of the sales of the restaurant go to Binondo’s Fire Department and other local community projects. One of the most popular Binondo food items would be the hopia of Eng Bee Tin. The hopia is a bean filled pastry introduced by Fujian immigrants to the Philippines around the early years of the American occupation. Eng Bee Tin literally revolutionized this humble pastry by introducing different kinds of filling, the most famous of which is ube, Filipino for purple yam which became a big hit, as with innate marketing savvy, sales soared. The owner of Eng Bee Tin donated a fire truck colored purple to the community in reference to Eng Bee Tin’s famous Hopia Ube. Binondo as a culinary destination is varied and exciting that one is only limited by his or her imagination by the surprises that its streets offer.

Currently there are many Chinatown tours being offered, and even if I was familiar with Binondo already, I took one done by the highly recommended, renowned performance artist Carlos Celdran’s tours (Walk This Way – http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/ )and as usual I wasn’t disappointed. Aside from weaving through Binondo’s main and side streets, we also experienced Binondo in a calesa, (a horse drawn carriage). The Chinatown tour was peppered with a lot of intriguing trivia which Carlos often injects in his tours. There are many ways to get to Binondo, you may take any of the jeepneys bound for Divisoria from Taft Avenue in Pasay City and get off at the Binondo Church or you may also take the LRT and get off the Central Station and walk in the direction of the Manila City Hall, then take the same Divisoria-bound jeepneys. Taxis usually dread going into the part of the city due to heavy traffic. Wear comfortable clothes and footwear and bring extra cash as a lot of shops don’t take credit cards.

Ryan: Carlos Celdran Walk This Way Tours to Quiapo and Binondo are suspended indefinitely due to apparent meddling by the local cops around the Quiapo area. There are other tours that do Binondo however like the Binondo Food Wok (fun@oldmanilawalks.com). They are also highly recommended by some of our contacts in the travel circuit.

Chinese Take-Out Binondo Style
Photo by webzer

Signs of Binondo
Photo by lunacruz

Celebrating the Lunar New Year in Binondo
Photo by jessiefish

To learn more of the Chinese heritage in the Philippines, one can drop by the Bahay Tsinoy Museum at the Kaisa Heritage Center (http://www.bahaytsinoy.org /+63.2.5276083/5266798/5266796/info@bahaytsinoy.org) at Anda cor. Cabildo Streets inside Intramuros. The museum is a repository of the Filipino Chinese heritage tracing the history of Chinese presence in the Philippines long before the Spaniards arrived to the modern times.

Today, Binondo and the local Filipino-Chinese community more than ever remain as an integral part of Philippine history, culture, politics and economy.

Binondo Today
Photo by storm-crypt

Puerto Princesa

Puerto Princesa Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Known worldwide as the home of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park – the longest navigable underground river in the entire world and many of its exotic islands, cream colored beaches, a plethora of waterfalls, hot springs, verdant rainforests, fauna and flora that can never found anywhere else on the planet,- the melting pot city of Puerto Princesa City is always an adventure waiting to happen.

Located about an hour and a half plane ride southwest of Manila, the sprawling City of Puerto Princesa which also happens to be the capital of the province of Palawan comes into view where the traveler is first greeted by the many islands scattered all over Honda Bay. The entire city straddles the middle of the Palawan – bordered by the towns of San Vicente and Roxas in the north, Aborlan on the south, Sulu Sea on its east and the South China Sea and the Kalayaan town of the Kalayaan Islands Group in the west. It is by no joke that this city is humungous in size; it is after all the second largest city in the Philippines in terms of area at 2,381.02 square kilometers, next only to Davao City which has a total area of 2,443.61 square kilometers.

Migratory Birds on Pandan Island
Photo by storm crypt

Puerto Princesa got its name from a legendary princess-like maiden, who in the olden times is said to have roamed around the area on certain nights of the year. While others who are too skeptical of such stories point out the geographical advantage of its harbor, which is naturally protected and has a depth which can accommodate large seagoing vessels- thus basically a virtual princess of ports as indicated by the maps of the Spaniards during the colonial era. Historically of course the city was named after the Spanish Princess Eulalia born in 1864. Her mother, Queen Isabel II changed the name to Puerto de la Princesa after Princess Eulalia’s death. After which, it was shortened to Puerto Princesa as it is known today.

As it is the same today, Puerto Princesa was already quite known and recognized for its orderliness and cleanliness way back in 1894. As we walked through the streets of this city (which was still quite scorching hot and humid even during December- we really wished that there were more trees planted along the boulevards of the city), we noticed the absence of litter for such a highly urbanized community. Police and even local citizens (yes, locals can make a citizen arrest) are really quite strict when it comes to waste disposal. There is no excuse to throw your trash anywhere since there are trash bins every couple hundred meters.

Inside the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River
Photo by storm crypt

Now the city is becoming to be known as being at the forefront of Philippine ecotourism campaigns with its various projects in promoting environmental tourism in the country today. Puerto Princesa in recent years has again been grabbing national and international headlines with its campaign to make its most famous feature to date be listed as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature– the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (more commonly known as the Underground River/St. Paul Underground River) which at 8.2 kilometers makes it the longest navigable underground river in the world. The park is located about 5 kilometers from Sabang Beach in the northwest part of the city and is about 2-3 Hours by public bus/jeepney from Puerto Princesa City Bus Terminal (by the New Public Market).

One basically navigates under the spectacular limestone formations which often resemble familiar things like mushrooms, and other vegetables as well as people – the boatman pretty much doubles as the guide and at the same time the group’s official entertainer. There is a turquoise colored lagoon at the mouth of the cave with ancient trees that basically grow right on the water’s edge. There are three ways of heading out to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park – either by boat from Sabang (easiest), or a hike through the Monkey Trail (moderate hike) and the Jungle Trail (difficult hike). Be prepared to encounter a lot of endemic flora and fauna along the way, we probably spotted at least 2 huge monitor lizards along the way, some really nasty ants, and heard birdcalls from different species of birds along the Monkey Trail. Noticing there was an absence of monkeys on the monkey trail, apparently, the pack was already at the beach near the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park opening since there are more tourists (meaning more food for the simians). Around the park, one can find other things to do, you may check out Ethnographic Museum, go on a mangrove cruise using a paddle boat through the Puyoy-puyoy river, or go spelunking in so many of the caves in the area (Lion Cave, Ugong Rock, Cawili Cave, Daylight Hole, Million Birds Cage).

On your way to Sabang, fantastic jungle clad limestone and marble cliffs and karst mountains pepper the horizon- make sure to prepare your camera and that you are seated on the right side of vehicle, then you should be able to capture these geologically significant landscapes which are located at Barangays Tagabinet and Cabayugan. Just before reaching Sabang, is the beautiful Ulugan Bay- a deep channel where a cluster of three islets called Tres Marias guard the mouth of this bay. There is a mangrove footwalk as well as a nearby waterfall (Kayulo) and Rita Island which is located inside the bay is a popular dive spot. There will be more detailed information on the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park in my article which focuses more on this wonder of nature. You may cast your vote online for Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park as one of the New 7 Natural Wonders of the World www.new7wonders.com.

Honda Bay
Photo by storm crypt

Aside from the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park, Puerto Princesa is also famous for its multitude of beaches. Head out to Honda Bay and go island hopping in its many islands, the most popular ones would be Snake Island (known for its long sandbar and fish feeding area- 45 minutes away from the port), Pandan Island (35 minutes), Starfish Island (35 minutes), Bat Island (known for the thousands of bats flying around dusk- 10 minutes), Cowrie Island (10 minutes), Adobo Island, Arreceffi Island (owned by the Dos Palmas Resort and 1 hour away from the port), Luli Island (15 minutes) and the reefs of Panglima (with its big coral boulders and gray reef sharks) and Pambato (known for medium large fishes of various species and beautiful coral gardens). The islands can also be viewed from Mitra’s Ranch, a privately owned ranch which is open to the public during the day. Mitra’s Ranch sports a house which looked very similar with the Monastery of the Transfiguration in Bukidnon.

Save probably for Snake Island, every island charges a minimal entrance fee. Arreceffi Island however is the most expensive of the lot which at the time of this writing charges PhP500 entrance fees. Entrance fees are paid upon entrance to these islands and the rates of the boats and entrance fees are posted at the port which is located about 5-10 minutes from the Puerto Princesa City Proper. The islands all have cream-colored sandy beaches. The most developed is probably the Snake Island where you can rent open air native huts with tables, and tiny stores which sell fresh seafood to grill and bread which can be used for fish feeding. The fishes on Snake Island are way too aggressive as we found out for ourselves. We literally had to get out of the water after a few minutes as a pink colored fish basically started attacking us by furtively divebombing and nibbling our feet. Of course, it not life threatening and other people will find it cute and amusing though we just felt weird to see such aggressive fish circling us.

Most of the islands are tiny; we basically went around Pandan Island in about 30 minutes and were quite pleased that there were not a lot of tourists in most of its parts. In some parts of the island, the sand was very, very fine which felt almost like silk. Pambato Reef was just gorgeous and very colorful; the reef is one of the most diverse around Puerto Princesa. Make sure you wear fins and not to splash too much when trying to swim and snorkel around as this damages the corals. Also avoid touching or stepping on the corals – a coral only grows 1 centimeter every year and these reefs are already threatened as it is. We saw signs of coral bleaching in some of the corals in the reef – one of the damages wrought by global warming. Also, we were a little concerned as well when we saw a small bucket of conch shells in our boat – collection of shells of any size or specie is not good for the environment and we encourage everyone to refrain from taking home a “souvenir”. Arreceffi Island made world headlines when in May 2001, 20 guests from the upscale resort Dos Palmas were abducted by the dreaded Islamic bandits Abu Sayyaf and one Peruvian-American was later beheaded and another American was killed in the crossfire during a rescue attempt. Because of this, a massive security presence is now deployed and radar surveillance has significantly boosted security and since then there were no more repeat incidents of this kind that have ever happened in the entire province of Palawan. Unfortunately, 9 years later, Palawan and Puerto Princesa City are still reeling, very undeservedly, from the effects of the highly publicized kidnappings, and while there is no immediate security threat in Palawan, it is only lately that tourist numbers are beginning to go back up. This is really ridiculous actually, after the horrific events of 9/11, it did not take 9 years before people started visiting New York. Today, Puerto Princesa and Palawan are some of the safest destinations in the world and the presence of so many Europeans and other foreigners visiting and living in the province that we met during our trip backs this up.

Snake Island
Photo by storm crypt

Aside from the beautiful beaches in Honda Bay, you may also visit the many other beaches on the mainland such as the beaches of San Rafael, Concepcion, Puting Buhangin, Tagbarungis, Kamuning, Pontog, Turtle Bay- all of which front the Sulu Sea and about 1 hour to 1 hour 45 minutes away from the city proper. On the side facing the South China Sea, you may check out the beaches of Napsan, Tagkawayan, Nagtabon, Talaudyong, and Sabang, While these are more or less the best known beaches, one can actually go and find your own beach which you don’t need to share with other tourists. One of them is a beach which is literally overlooked by a lot of people because it is a nice sandbar which is located right next to the landing lights of the Puerto Princesa Airport. The beach is called Canigaran and you have to literally wade through up to waist deep of water to get there. This is also a place for some locals to go get some edible shells.

Meanwhile, Puerto Princesa Bay is a hub for sunset cruises, and dolphin watching and is also a major port of call for smaller ships and boats that are bound to the different destinations in the Sulu Sea, namely the stunning islands of Cuyo (where the famous, ultra-exclusive Amanpulo Resort is located) and to another UNESCO World Heritage Site the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park, magnificent atolls with an astonishing diversity of marine life unparalleled anywhere in the world. Colorful reef fish swim in its shallows while pelagics and sharks swim in its volcanic depths.

Near the port of Honda Bay meanwhile, is the Viet Ville or Vietnamese Village, a former settlement area for the Vietnamese Boat People, refugees who fled Vietnam during the Vietnam War and found themselves washed ashore in Palawan (the first wave of which was in 1979). Being naturally hospitable, the Philippines offered not only a home but a second chance to the Vietnamese refugees. The village was set up by the local government and up until today, these humble houses still stand testament to a peoples struggle for freedom. There is a tiny chapel and a statue to Our Lady of Viet Nam, a restaurant and a souvenir shops. Street signs within this tiny village are in Vietnamese as well. Check out the Sta. Lourdes Hot Springs nearby as well. Another hot spring worth checking out is the Sta. Lucia Hot Springs too.

For waterfalls the most notable are the Sabang Falls in Sabang, Olanguan Falls, and the Kayulo Falls. Halfway going to Napsan are the Salakot Waterfalls where aside from the cool waters of its three layered waterfalls, rare species of butterflies can sometimes be found here. Mountaineers would love the trek to the 1,600 meters high Cleopatra’s Needle which provides a sweeping view of Puerto Princesa City. While it is a challenging climb for mountaineers, one will be rewarded with rivers, streams, fields and lush forests.

Recreation Hall, Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm
Photo by Dave Ryan

Aside from the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River, and the island hopping, one of the major highlights of our trip would probably be the visit to the Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm. Spanish authorities during the colonial period had earlier designated Puerto Princesa to be a place where offenders were exiled but it was only in November 16, 1904 under the American Governor General Luke Wright that facilities were established. Vocational activities were made available to the prisoners which include farming, fishing, handicrafts making, forestry and carpentry.

Prisoners are free to roam the hectares and hectares of land within the penal colony which makes this one of the quirkiest prisons in the world. When we drove into Iwahig, instead of guards, prisoners actually opened and closed the gate for us. We had to sign in of course, plate number, name of guests and all. Most of the roads inside the farm are dirt and gravel and it couldn’t be more surreal to see ricefields left and right – yes, the prisoners grow their own food. In the main square, stately American colonial buildings still stand, one is a beautiful building that is used as a recreation hall which is right next to a souvenir shop. Unfortunately, the recreation hall is in a state of disrepair and needs immediate attention; I peeked inside and found the roof is literally falling apart. The souvenir shop sells items such as gavels, baseball bat keychains, nunchucks, canes made from kamagong, a Philippine hardwood, side by side with cute stuffed toys, t-shirts and pearl necklaces. Outside the shop, the prisoners can be a tad pushy selling their wares and seeing some of them are wearing medium security shirts, although, obviously, the guys mean no harm, still the experience was quite unnerving at worst. For a good price, one can even buy government-issued prison shirts (around 200-300 Pesos apiece depending whether it is minimum, medium or maximum security shirts). Another feature of Iwahig is the Balsahan River Picnic Grounds which are also open to the public. Best is to buy some meat and bring it to the picnic grounds to be grilled, the grounds are also tended by prisoners themselves and are open to the public. While at the picnic ground, check out the Iwahig Stone which serves proof that Palawan is one of the oldest islands in the Philippines. Close to Iwahig, along the National Road is the Irawan Crocodile Farm and Nature Park, which is open to the public and aims to preserve and further research on crocodiles.

Immaculate Conception Cathedral
Photo by Dave Ryan

Within the city proper, there are quite a few places that one should check out as well. You may as well check out the very angular Immaculate Conception Cathedral on Rizal Avenue which is right next to the Plaza Cuartel on Taft Street. Plaza Cuartel was used as an old garrison where more or less 150 soldiers (varying accounts), all American Prisoners of War were herded by the Japanese Imperial Army on December 14, 1944 into three covered trenches and were then set on fire using barrels of gasoline. Those who attempted to escape were shot down, others tried to escape by climbing over a cliff that ran along the site of the trenches but were later hunted down. 10-11 survived this atrocity and it was said that 133-141 were killed. A small statue commemorates the site of the massacre.

Also within the city proper, make sure that you pay a visit to the Palawan Museum which houses the relics and artifacts found in Tabon Cave – the site of the oldest human bone ever found in the Philippines and the oldest known fossil remains of Homo Sapiens in Southeast Asia which are radiocarbon dated to an age of 22,000-24,000 years. The fossil is now housed at the National Museum of the Filipino People in Manila.
Major festivals are the Baragatan sa Palawan and Feast of the Forest (3rd week of June) and the City Fiesta (every 8th of December).

Why Not Go

While the city proper offers a good deal of creature comforts, the hulking malls and the blinding lights of flashy clubs and discotheques of Manila are conspicuously absent in Puerto Princesa so for those on the lookout for clubbing and mall-hopping, Puerto Princesa is not going to be the right place for you.

Why Go

For those who seek leisure and adventure, Puerto Princesa offers a vast array of choices from cruising an underground river, spelunking, diving, island hopping, firefly tours and other eco-friendly pastimes. It is a must for every traveler to and within the Philippines to experience the beauty of this wonderful city.

Best Time to Visit

The city enjoys a year round tropical climate with a relatively high humidity. Early mornings by Sabang Beach however can be chilly around December. Puerto Princesa is mostly spared by the typhoons that ravage other parts of the country and thus makes almost any time of the year the best time to head out to this city.

Where to Stay

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Our favorite place to stay in Puerto Princesa (city proper) would be hands down – Banwa Pension (http://www.banwa.com/), a guesthouse & art café rolled into one. The accommodations are pretty basic, but the service is friendly and ambience is pretty bohemian. The lounge room doubles as an art gallery of sorts and art pieces (for sale) line the walls of the corridor. The restaurant operates on an honesty basis, get your beer from the fridge and write your name on the sheet of paper by the bar and pay later when you check out. Most of the guests who check in here are mostly Europeans and it is pretty easy to meet new friends while lounging around – we ended up talking about the European Union and swapping travel stories and tips over beers around Christmas eve with other guests from Sweden, Germany and Austria. After we came back from Sabang, we had to chill out and get away from the searing midday sun and headed back to Banwa for a couple more beers and some great conversation with even newer friends.

Banwa Pension Lounge Room
Photo by Dave Ryan

In Sabang, Mary’s Cottages (+63.919.7577582) is the no-frills choice, accommodation is really basic and some huts share an outhouse while other cottages have their own lavatories. Like most of the resorts on Sabang, the resort runs on a power generator which is turned off at some point. The owner is amiable, and the staff is helpful, save for the fact that the check-in guy forgot to give us our blankets (which almost left us frozen around early morning). The common outhouse needs more attention as well as sometimes it wasn’t very well kept. Having said that, we liked the simplicity of the resort compared to a newly constructed huge hotel made out of concrete which looked grotesque and uninspiring. Mary’s Cottage has the better beachfront in the entire Sabang strip. Also, the owner can send a carabao cart to pick you up from the port to take you to the resort.

Where & What to Eat

Suffice to say, we left Puerto Princesa with extra pounds. A visit to the city is never complete without trying the Tamilok also known as a shipworm and although it looks, as someone said like an umbilical cord and despite of being called a worm – it is not a worm. It is actually related to the clam family albeit a really, really weird looking clam. It is prepared with vinegar and/or lemon juice, pretty much like a ceviche, and the taste was like that of an oyster with an earthy aftertaste probably much owing to the fact that the Tamilok bores its way through wood around the mangroves and other areas near the waters. Grossed out at first, I almost finished more than half of the plate of Tamilok served to me at Kinabuchs (Rizal Avenue). Kinabuchs is also known for probably one of the best crispy pata (deep fried pork knuckles) I have ever encountered. Once in Puerto Princesa, and you are not a vegetarian, make sure you get hold of their crispy pata! Basically we spent our Christmas Day dinner at this place with Mr. Caesar Yuipco and his lovely family.

One of the most highly recommended places by friends before we went to Puerto Princesa was Ka Lui also on Rizal Avenue. So off we went and after the famous and super delicious seafood plate, it was full on thumbs up for this stylish restaurant (you have to take your shoes off when you step into the restaurant) which also doubles as an art gallery for local artists. We met with owner, Lui Oliva after dinner and we also found out that the restaurant actively supports not only the local artists, but also local producers. Almost everything on the menu as we found out was sourced in Palawan which we think is an exemplary way of helping local communities. Aside from offering great food, it was a great cause and for that we highly recommend Ka Lui.

Vietnamese influence brought about by the waves of Vietnamese refugees settling in Palawan is pretty prominent with its many Chao Long Houses (pretty much the same as Tapsilog places in Manila), eateries which serve cheap but great tasting Chao Long (a rice noodle soup usually served with meat, locals call it beef stew and it is pretty similar to Pho). The noodles are flat and almost translucent in a very savory broth with beef, beef bones, pork or chicken) and served with basil, mint, bean sprouts, chili and calamansi (or Philippine lime). Chao Long is also best eaten with a piece of French Baguette smeared with butter and garlic on one side. The best place to try this is at the Bulwagang Princesa Chao Long House on Rizal Avenue. The Chao Long in this place is so good we had to come back for another round.

Chao Long
Photo by Dave Ryan

For vegetarians, you may check out the Vegetarian House on Manalo Street near the office of the Department of Education. In Sabang, meanwhile, one should never forget to try the fresh coconut juice at Mary’s Cottages located near the entrance to the trails going to the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park – it was probably the yummiest coconut juice we ever had in memory.

Nightlife

Nightlife in the city is characterized by basically heading out to restaurant bars like Kinabuchs. During festivals and holidays, the place to be is hang out at the Baywalk where colorful lampposts line the harbor which faces the Sulu Sea. Bicycles can be rented while there are a few food stalls around. During the Christmas Season, a giant Christmas tree adorns the park while there are small fairs constructed. The beach in Sabang is mostly characterized by restaurants.

My to do List

1. Go on a cruise through the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River.*
2. Island hopping in Honda Bay. **
3. Pay a visit to the Plaza Cuartel and the Immaculate Conception Cathedral.*
4. Go shopping for super cheap pearls at unbeatable prices at Delma’s (+63.48.4341495/+63.919.4988917/by the Old Public Market)*
5. Try the Crispy Pata and the Tamilok at Kinabuchs.*
6. Visit and have a picnic at the Iwahig Penal Farm.*
7. Satisfy your hunger with some good Chao Long at the Bulwagang Princesa Chao Long House after you visit the Vietnamese Village. *
8. Snorkel at the Pambato Reef.**
9. Go spelunking!
10. Take a carabao cart ride on Sabang Beach.*
11. Learn more about the history of the province at the Palawan Museum.*
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Stay Away From

1. Mosquitoes! – just bring bug repellent to be sure. Palawan is notorious for really awful mosquito bites. Our bug bites are still itching more than two weeks after we left.
2. Drowning – Learn to spot rip tides and make sure you wear a working life-vest during boat trips.
3. Dehydration – always bring a bottle of water especially during hikes..
4. Getting wet, take Ziplocs with you for your gadgets and valuables.
5. Protect yourself from UV rays by putting on sunblock.

Getting There

Puerto Princesa Airport is the main gateway to the Palawan mainland. Talks are afoot of converting the airport to cater to international flights. From Manila, it is accessible by air via Philippine Airlines, Zest Air, and Cebu Pacific. There are flights via Southeast Asian Airlines (SEAIR) from Manila via El Nido/Busuanga. There are also seasonal flights direct from Boracay/Caticlan also via SEAIR. Cebu Pacific meanwhile offers direct flights from Cebu.

Puerto Princesa Airport
Photo by Dave Ryan

By sea, Puerto Princesa is accessible via the Superferry which has schedules for trips to Manila via Coron which takes about 18-22 hours. There are also trips from Iloilo via Montenegro Shipping.

Tricycles are the main mode of transport within the city, and figuring out the right fares sometimes boggles the traveler – you really don’t know whether you are getting ripped off or not. Outside the city proper and to other towns, there are jeepneys and rickety mini-buses available. The best option is to hire a van to take you around and this works out better when you are in a group or have your trips arranged by your tour operator instead to do away with the hassle. Going to Sabang, there are only three available jeepneys (last one leaves at 1PM) and at least one bus a day. A rental van costs about 3,000 to 3,500 Pesos depending on how you haggle. Island hopping is made possible through a motorized outrigger boat. At the Honda Bay port, there is a list of rates and the boatmen never ask for more.

Batanes

Batanes Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Things to Bring
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

Taming the wind and the waters in the northernmost Philippine frontier, the relatively isolated islands of the Batanes, the home of the resilient and welcoming Ivatans, with its rolling hills, subtropical climate, ancient cultures, windswept traditional stone houses and breathtaking landscapes and seascapes which perhaps make it one of the prettiest corners of the world.

After about 1 hour and 45 minutes SEAIR flight from Manila, we finally caught a glimpse of the northernmost province of the Philippines and from the air, one can see the fields that look like a labyrinthine patchwork of green bordered by tall hedgerows of grass, reeds, piled stones and trees which serve as a crop protection from the fierce winds, and typhoons which commonly pass near the islands as well as huge waves that crash into dramatic cliffs and rocks that jut out into the ocean, which undoubtedly look incredibly similar to the English moors and Scottish Highlands with a Filipino twist. Think Wuthering Heights and you’ll know what we mean. In 1687, English freebooters with a Dutch crew arrived in these islands and named three of the islands in honor of their monarchs- the main island of Batan was named Grafton Isle after Henry Fitzroy, First Duke of Grafton; Sabtang was named Monmouth Isle after James Scott, First Duke of Monmouth and Itbayat was named Orange Isle after William of Orange. The freebooters were led by William Dampier who stayed on the islands for three months but never claimed the islands for the British crown.

Mahatao Hedgerows
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Batanes is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east, South China Sea to the west, Bashi Channel and Taiwan to the north and the Balintang Channel to the south. It is composed of 11 islands, of which Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan Islands are inhabited while Ditarem, Adekey, Vuhus, Misanga, Dinem, Mavudis and all others are uninhabited.

We held our breaths as the Dornier plane finally landed at the Basco Airport, with its tiny terminal building inspired by the traditional Ivatan stone house, a refreshingly different architectural and classy take on the many airports that I have went through so far. Under the shadows of the looming Mount Iraya in the distance, finally we had arrived in Batanes.

Early in its history, Batanes already had a civilization flourishing on its islands and was ruled by powerful chiefs who exacted revenues, administered justice, as well as exercised military might especially during times of invasion from other tribes. The idjangs or fortresses of pre-colonial Batanes can still be found all over the islands and they are usually perched on hilltops like the ones that we have seen on Sabtang and Batan Island (Itbud). The idjang in Savidug on Sabtang Island is considered to be one of the most perfectly shaped and the most beautiful among all the Batanes idjangs. Apparently, experts have noted how these idjangs are pretty similar to the gusukus found in Okinawa, Japan. The ancient Ivatans who are Austronesian in origin lived on these idjangs since they first migrated into Batanes about 4,000 years ago during the Neolithic Period. It was during the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish governorship was established along the coastlines and lowlands which forced the early Ivatans- the people of the islands, to come down from their idjangs and convert to the new system of government. It was around 1686 and 1719 when Dominicans sent expeditions to the islands to proselytize and by 1773, the Ivatans became subjects of the Spanish King. It was only in June 26, 1783, over two centuries after the formal colonization of the Philippines by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, when Batanes was formally annexed to the Spanish Colonial State under Governor Jose Basco y Vargas. The capital town Basco, obviously got its name from the Spanish Governor General’s surname.

Batanes Lighthouse
Photo by xave

The Spanish imprint on the islands became indelible when it was finally decreed that no house should be built more than 2,786 meters (half a league) from the nearest church. The Dominican influence is very much alive today in the similar architectural styles of the Batanes churches – the most notable churches are the gorgeous churches of San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873), Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century), Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat as well as the church in Chavayan, the latter, is the only church left in Batanes which still sports a thatched roof and probably the only pink church in the Philippines, the church of Itbud.

Limestone technology was introduced to the islands by the Spaniards and is still pretty much evident among the Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof which dot the three inhabited islands. The Itbayat houses apparently are built the sturdiest as they receive the harshest winter winds from Siberia from December to February. Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses and quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang felt like being transported to another world and where time just stood still. Chavayan, which is currently nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List, was exceptionally stunning with the village nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea where the churning waters of the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It was also in Chavayan where we met Lolo Emilio, Batanes’ oldest resident at 102 years old going 103. Like most of the houses in the islands, the houses in Chavayan are normally left unlocked while the Ivatans leave for the fields to farm or to the oceans to fish. Batanes enjoys an extremely low crime rate so much that we couldn’t help but pay the local police station a visit. According to the Ivatan’s Finest, the local police force’s nickname, aside from the occasional noisy drunks, Batanes is pretty crime-free. Of course save for the Vietnamese, Chinese and Taiwanese fishermen usually caught illegally entering and fishing in Philippine waters around Batanes. Strangers greet each other on the street. After the first day, we finally caught up with this practice and I ended up greeting every person while I was taking photos by the National Highway.

Chavayan Heritage House
Photo by Dave Ryan

Just as the rains started pouring, we ducked into probably one of the quirkiest and the most refreshing places we went to – the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. The rules are simple, you choose what item you want to get, check the price list, and drop your payment into a box The owner who prefers to work in the field leaves the store and basically trusts their customers to be honest and pay the right amount even when no one’s looking. One of the signs on the wall reads “This store is too small for dishonest people.” True enough, not one customer has been dishonest so far.

It goes without saying that there are only about 15,974 (2007 census) people living on the only three inhabited islands, making the province the most sparsely populated in the Philippines and at 219.01 square kilometers, also the smallest province by land area. With the sounds of wind and the waves, there was a utter stillness even during the middle of the day in Batanes and moreso at night where streets are literally empty around 6PM. Electricity is on for 24 hours on the main island of Batan while Itbayat and Sabtang have electricity from 6AM-12MN. In the charming fishing village of Diura (three kilometers east of Mahatao town), which faces the Pacific Ocean and the site of busy arayu (dorado/mahi-mahi) fishing season in summer virtually becomes a ghost town during the cool winter season and from the cliffs in Tukun, one can see the only three lit lamp posts in the area. The fishermen of Diura perform the Kapayvanuvanua (which literally means, “the making of the port”), a ritual opening the port to obtain the favor of the spirit dwellers of the sea and signifies the start of the fishing season.

Taming the Waves at Sabtang Port
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Being master seafarers and boat builders, the Ivatans are known to be well versed in reading the stars and the phases of the moon in relation to sailing between the islands. According to our extremely helpful and hospitable Ivatan guides from the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (http://batanestravel.com/), Ely Gabilo and Tita Donato, the seas are rougher 3 days before and 3 days after a full moon and a new moon. The boats of Batanes are called the tataya (an Ivatan dory, a smaller boat usually with twin oars), the faluwa, (Ivatan boat, usually motorized as is pretty common with most boats in Batanes now and can accommodate 20-40 people and in some instances cattle and livestock- during our trip to Sabtang from Batan, we had to wait for a cow to be unloaded from the faluwa first before we boarded the last boat for the day) and the chinarem. The boats of Batanes are hardy and in the hands of a good captain, they can skillfully navigate their way through the chaotic waves that are as unpredictable as the weather in Batanes. The way I felt us moving through the waves felt like we were actually surfing the waves ( I could hear similar rushing sounds one would hear while surfing as the boat moved forward and weaved its way through the roaring waves) and eventually my suspicions were confirmed by the boatmen themselves.

The seafaring culture is pretty evident in Batanes even in the pre-Spanish boat shaped burial markers found scattered all throughout the islands (we have reports that one can find such markers at Vuhus Island, an island south of Sabtang facing the village of Sumnanga, another stunningly beautiful village made up of traditional stone houses. Sumnanga is called Little Hong Kong for the number of boats that line the coast of Duvek Bay. There are similar burial markers found on Nakamaya as well as at Nahili du Vutux, an ancient settlement which is characterized with an idjang, boat shaped burial markers, and a gorgeous view of Dinem and the eastern coast of Itbayat Island.

Windswept hills, steep cliffs, and rugged coastlines pretty much characterize typical Batanes topography, as seen in Rakuh-A-Payaman or better known for its nickname as the Marlborough Country as well as the Vayang or the Rolling Hills with the many grazing carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes), cows, horses and goats roaming the areas. The coasts made misty by ocean mists such as what we saw on our way to Chavayan along one lane road that hugs the sides of the cliffs just left us literally speechless for its absolute beauty. From Rakuh-A-Payaman as well as in Tukun, one can see the hedgerows from a distance; the spectacular scenery makes these areas one of the many favorite spots for photography in Batan Island. Tukun is the site of the northernmost Philippine weather station (PAG-ASA) in the country where the province is used as the last reference point of any tropical weather disturbance thus unfairly associating the province with perpetual bad weather. The weather station sits on top of the hill with a commanding and panoramic view of the northern portion of Batan Island where one can literally see both the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time. Also in Tukun is the beautiful former studio of Batanes’ foremost artist, the late Pacita Abad. The studio which stands on a cliff facing the Pacific is now part of the Fundacion Pacita, a charming bed and breakfast affair run by affable Former Education Secretary Butch Abad and his wife Ms. Dina Abad.

Sabtang Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes also boasts of stretches of white and cream colored sandy beaches, probably the most famous of which is the Nakabuang Beach on Sabtang with its often photographed stone/rock arch formation where picnics are usually held during the summer months. The smaller White Beach and the nearby Blue Lagoon in Mahatao offers pretty views as well. Swimming is unsafe in Blue Lagoon however, that is if you don’t want to get smashed into the massive rocks while White Beach is a good and passable beach in our opinion (however, we saw a small but growing problem of garbage around the area which we hope would be addressed pretty soon, Nakabuang Beach is in more pristine condition). A private beach, Disvayangan has a row of private picnic houses for rent. Diving (www.divebatanes.com/) is also possible in Batanes with Duvek Bay in Sumnanga having one of the best coral conditions in Batanes as well as in Siayan Island about 5.5 nautical miles from Itbayat which is surrounded by beautiful white beaches and rich coral which teems with abundant marine life.

Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island in the Philippines, however, does not have any beaches as the entire island is basically surrounded by cliffs. There are other interesting islands in the area, however, they are better reached during the summer months as travel from islands can take a lot of time and the waves can be treacherous. One of the most striking and probably one of the images that we will probably remember about our trip to Batanes would be the Valugan Boulder Beach facing the Pacific where huge smooth stones spewed out by Mount Iraya during an eruption in 400 AD are found right along the beach.

Fundacion Pacita
Photo by Dave Ryan

The formidable looking mountains and hills of Batanes are a great challenge to mountaineers. Mount Iraya on Batan Island rises to about 1,009 meters above sea level and is the highest peak on Batan Island and its spring water is the main source of water for Basco. A good climb for mountaineers, it is also home of the Batanes pit viper, an arboreal snake found only in Batanes and one of the rarest snake species in the world. The Batanes Pit Vipers live on trees and produce their young from eggs hatching within their bodies. They are typically green in color with some others having yellow, black, orange or red markings. Mount Iraya is also home to an abundant number of endemic species of flora and fauna. Some of the flora and fauna that can be found in Batanes are the Indochinese Shrew, Ryukyu Flying Fox, Asian Water Snake and plants like the Voyavoy (a Philippine date palm which is used to make another iconic Batanes item- the Vakul- the traditional headgear for women who use them to protect themselves from the sun, and the rain; the men use the traditional vests called Kanayi and the Salakut as a hat), Kanarem, and Vuhuan. The entire province was declared as a protected landscape and seascape by the Philippine government in 1992.

Cows of Batanes
Photo by Dave Ryan

On Itbayat, there is the Turungan Hill where ancient stone boat-shaped burial markers are found and believed to be the burial ground of the early Ivatans living at the Turungan Cave (believed to be the first landing place of early Austronesians from Taiwan 4,000 years ago) while Mount Ripused, considered as one of the two volcanoes (the other being Mt. Karoobuban – Itbayat’s highest point) that served to be the foundation of Itbayat, has great views southeast portion of the island including the airstrip and Lake Kayaywan. Rapang Cliff, also on Itbayat, is a natural park with rocky hills, cliffs, a forest and a grazing area. One can also find the bonsai version of the native Batanes arius tree which is commonly found all throughout the province. There is a natural stone bell which is a flat stone that lies naturally upon another stone and produces a sound resembling a bell. The stone bell served as warning system for early settlers especially when there were enemies approaching as well as a signal for meetings and goat gathering. There are also hiking opportunities on Dinem Island. Contact Batanes Mountaineers (http://batanesmountaineers.multiply.com/) for more information regarding mountaineering in Batanes.

The province also plays host to many lighthouses, the oldest (but now defunct) of which still stands in Mahatao in front of the Mahatao Church. The Basco Lighthouse on Naidi Hills which is also the site of the American era wireless telegraph facilities until being bombed to smithereens by invading Japanese Imperial Army forces is the best place to catch the picturesque Basco sunset. The Basco Lighthouse is considered the oldest working lighthouse in the province now. Other noteworthy lighthouses with gorgeous views would be the Tayid Lighthouse, on the other part of Batan Island facing the South China Sea as well as the Sabtang Island Lighthouse near Sabtang Port.

Ruins of Sungsung
Photo by Noli Gabilo

One would also find the remains of what used to be a vibrant village in the town of Uyugan, the Ruins of Sungsung, (a group of destroyed lime and stone houses a few meters from the beach) as it is called, are what is left after the village was wiped out in a tidal wave in 1954. While the houses in Sungsung were unfortunate, the UNESCO World Heritage Building House of Dakay (Vahay ni Dakay) in Ivana survived a big earthquake on September 13, 1918 which leveled the entire town. The House of Dakay, which was built in 1887 by Luisa Estrella, is one of the 5 houses which survived the tremor and went on to become the oldest existing stone house in Batanes. The house was bequeathed by Luisa to her nephew Jose “Dakay” Estrella whom the house was named after. The current occupant is Lola Florestida Estrella, a kind and rather frail looking lady in her advanced years seemed pretty happy to receive us graciously inside her home. Our guide told us afterwards that the old lady needs financial help to keep her and her house going. Also even if she is probably the most photographed woman in Batanes, she doesn’t usually get to see her photos as well. Good thing we showed her the photo that we took of ourselves with her. The house which is pretty much in great condition is made up of stone, coral and lime walls and original shutters and hardwood floors. The roof made out of cogon as is customary in traditional houses in Batanes is changed every 30 years. Also when in Batan, make time to explore Imnajbu, the last village from Basco. When residents are tending to their farms, you will probably see all the doors and windows in the village open.

House of Dakay
Photo by lightindependent

Also check the Dipnaysupuan Japanese Tunnel, where the Japanese hid during World War 2. Although areas of the tunnel were heavily vandalized and seemed poorly maintained by the local government it is still worth a visit. One can take a torch and a short guided tour inside the elaborate tunnel. Batanes was the site of the first Japanese landing in the Philippines during World War 2 which coincided with the day Pearl Harbor was bombed.

Going even further off the beaten track, there is the sinkhole which works as a giant drain in Itbayat called Manoyok which is believed to be haunted. The sinkhole was found to be around 45 meters deep with two big chambers and a narrow passage between them and apparently, this was where the ancient Ivatans used to throw witches as a punishment. There is also Kumayasakas Cave and water source, an underground stream in the northwest of Itbayat and the Rakuh-a-idi Springs (also known as the Spring of Youth) on Batan Island. If the weather permits, one may even go to the northernmost island of Mavudis (also called Y’ami), an uninhabited island covered with palms and mangoes which also serves as a refuge for fishermen. On a clear day, one can even see Taiwan. All over Batan and Sabtang we saw possible surfing opportunities for advanced surfers, we even saw a surfboard hanging around in Malakdang!

The Vakul
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes Cultural Travel Agency or BCTA (http://www.batanestravel.com) probably offers the most consistent and the most definitive travel arrangements for those planning to head out and visit these beautiful islands. We went with BCTA on this trip, and it was a very pleasant one and we were taken care of by their wonderful staff in Manila and their experienced Ivatan tour guides in Batanes. BCTA’s Manila Office is at Unit 201 Parc Chateau, Onyx Road, Ortigas Center, Pasig City, Philippines. In the Philippines: call (+63.2) 9108801. 6354810, 6342982; Mobile- 0917-811-BCTA; US/Canada – 1-888-808-4123 or you may catch them on Skype ID: bctasales.

Why Not Go

Excessive noise, rudeness and lack of cultural and environmental concern are frowned upon not only by the Ivatans but travelers like us who are protective of the stunning beauty of these islands. Trust, honesty and community spirit are the operative words here. There are no malls here, no clubs, and no fastfood chains. If you are looking for that then Batanes is not for you, so just leave Batanes alone.

Why Go

Batanes is perfect for honeymooners and other couples as the province provides a calm, serene and contemplative respite from the noise and chaos of urban living. It also great destination for serious travelers who are more interested in communing with nature and culture at the same time rather than just taking pretty photos and getting senselessly drunk.

One of the main things that we totally love about Batanes was that aside from extremely pretty scenery, amazing culture, great food and hospitable people, it is still in pretty much pristine condition and has not been ravaged by mass tourism as in a lot of places in the country. Due to its relative isolation and because it’s a little more expensive to get to, Batanes tourism, if administered properly, is poised to create an important niche in the tourism industry. For now, it has generally avoided major and noisy crowds looking to make the requisite jump shots of themselves. We hope that it stays that way for good.

Best Time to Visit

Depending on which weather you are after, Batanes is a good year round destination, save for the stormy months of July – September. The weather is cool, with the coldest months around December to February when the temperatures drop down to as low as 7C-10C. During the summer months from March to June, the seas are calmer, and trips to other islands are easier. When traveling to Batanes however, you must have a very flexible schedule as flights and boat trips can get canceled at the last minute. If you intend to travel and sufficiently cover most of the main destinations just for Sabtang and Batan, a 4 day trip can suffice, if you wish to head out to Itbayat as well, you may as well make sure that you stay there for a week. But trust us, once you get to Batanes, you actually won’t want to leave.

Where to Stay

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For now, there are enough rooms to let in Batanes. We had the pleasure of staying in three different lodgings while we were in the province. While our Sabtang trip was meant to be a day tour, the boatman refused to return to Batan because the waves were really getting rough so we ended up staying the night at the Municipal Guesthouse by Sabtang port. Arranged by BCTA, we had a rather spartan room of two single beds with the window opening to the ocean. With the windows left open to let the cool ocean air in, we slept quite soundly under a blanket.

On the second night, we ended up staying at the clean and convenient Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant in Basco on the main island, run by the very efficient Ms. Lydia Roberto, it is perfect for groups. Batanes Seaside boasts of being the official lodging place of film crews who shot the film Batanes and if I am not mistaken was also the base for the film Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit, a Tagalog adaptation of the film Wuthering Heights.

For our last night in Batanes, we were invited to stay at the sprawling Fundacion Pacita (http://www.fundacionpacita.ph/) in Tukun by Ms, Dina Abad. The well-appointed suites adorned with the artworks of up and coming Ivatan artists all sit on a cliff with private verandahs which overlook the gorgeous Pacific Ocean and the nearby fishing village of Diura. The suites are a beautiful fusion of traditional Ivatan architecture with nice maritime touches and a warm country feel. The atmosphere was incredibly dreamy and perfect for honeymooning couples. The next morning we were even invited for a cup of coffee and jam with toast by the owner herself at their main house, whose balcony has well tended topiary and a stunning view of the cliffs and the ocean. Aside from being a haven for Ivatan artists, Fundacion Pacita is also very active in heritage conservation projects all over Batanes which makes it one of our top choices of places to stay in the province.

We were meant to stay in a stone house in Diura, but due to the delay from our trip back to Batan, it was too late to arrange lodgings there. Meanwhile, Pension Ivatan’s lodgings by Valugan Beach are only open during the summer season.

Aside from these, there are other places to stay in Batanes and you may have to coordinate with them or the travel agency first before heading out there.

Where & What to Eat

Before coming to Batanes, we had no idea of the local cuisine and we did not know what to expect except that we asked BCTA to make sure we get authentic Ivatan fare all throughout our stay. And we did.

Luñis
Photo by Dave Ryan

Sabtang is perhaps known for Tatus, the local name for the Coconut Crabs. While I could not verify whether it is an endangered animal, the locals said that during the cold season, the crabs hide and are harder to catch and while we were in Sabtang, apparently we ate the last coconut crab on the island for the season. We do not support eating of endangered animals, and unfortunately we weren’t informed that it is now included among the list of threatened species and taking the Tatus out of Batanes is strictly prohibited. Skip this one out if you can. The crab gets its diet from eating coconuts thus its name, while the meat in its pincers is very difficult to get, the fat was incredibly creamy and has the slight coconut aftertaste. Also in Sabtang, we had grilled Kanañiz, which is literally a squid which is tougher and thicker than what we are used to eating. If you have sensitive teeth, you may want to pass over the Kanañiz.

Tugi
Photo by Dave Ryan

While dry and a little too crunchy, Luñis or Adobo Ivatan Style was a tasty twist on this famous Philippine dish. Instead of the usual vinegar, soy and herbs marinade, the Luñis only uses salt and is cooked until dry. Due to the unpredictable weather in Batanes, the Ivatans learned to do preserving techniques for their food to last them during the stormy months. We also had Puhug (Winged Beans or Sigarilyas in Tagalog) mixed with meat which was well cooked and all fresh and Tuhos nu Wakay (Camote Tops/ Talbos ng Kamote) sautéed in garlic which was rather clean tasting compared to the ones in Luzon. I was never a fan of the Luzon variety of Camote Tops, but I could not have stopped myself eating my veggies in Batanes. After all, Ivatans don’t use chemical fertilizers or pesticides- everything is organic!

Hapa, Ivatan Style Laing
Photo by Dave Ryan

At Rakuh-a-Payaman, we had a massive lunch and extremely delicious too. We almost devoured everything on the table (save for the plates and the cutlery). BCTA prepared such delectable Ivatan food that we are still wistfully thinking of it until this day. Aside from rice, Batanes main staple is root crops which better survive the sometimes harsh weather conditions. This is exemplified with root crop dishes such as the boiled tugi (yam) and the venes, (dried stalks of taro) where the venes is shredded and mixed with meat like beef or pork. Of course there is the hapa, an Ivatan twist to the Bicolano laing where fresh stalks of taro are cooked in fresh coconut milk and sprinkled with tiny dried fish on top, and with the Ivatan classic turmeric rice, it was just heavenly. Interestingly, the Ivatans also grill pork the way I used to, just rub the pork with sea salt and then grill it over charcoal. It gives the meat a more natural flavor and when dipped in spiced silam, (the Ivatan sugarcane vinegar) it is pure joy.

We also loved the fried dibang (flying fish, I guess the fish wasn’t quick enough as he landed on my plate) for breakfast at Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. Try the arayu (mahi-mahi) as well, which is always freshly caught from the seas surrounding the province. We were on our way back to Batan when we had to stop in the middle of the ocean when one of the passengers caught two big arayus.
For those with a sweet tooth, try their own version if uvi halaya which is a mixture of uvi (yam), dukay, and sugar cooked in fresh coconut milk.

To cap the meal, either fresh coconut juice or a warm Ivatan spirit, the palek, Batanes’ answer to the Ilocos basi (sugarcane wine) is always a great way to finish the meal. For the aged version, try the Minyuvaheng which is dark in color and the Mavaheng which is black.

Nightlife

There is almost virtually no nightlife in Batanes although we spied a karaoke machine next to Batanes Seaside Lodge and Restaurant. The best way to enjoy nights in Batanes is to sit back and relax and admire the views of the sea, the starlit skies and the cliffs from one’s hotel room balcony.

My to do List

1. Have an authentic Ivatan lunch at the Rakuh-a-Payaman.*
2. Visit and have pictures with the many docile carabaos in Vayang. *
3. Go Lighthouse hopping!**
4. Stroll along the streets of Chavayan. *
5. Get yourself a Vakul from the Sabtang Weavers. (PhP 350) *
6. Soak in the waters by Nakabuang Beach.**
7. Go hiking in Dinem.
8. Visit the burial markers in Itbayat.
9. Take a lot of photos! **
10. Take a glimpse at the artworks at Fundacion Pacita. *
11. Go mountaineering and climb Mt Iraya.
12. Share stories with Lola at the House of Dakay. *
13. Sip a cup of coffee at the Honesty Coffee Shop.**
14. Visit the churches of Batanes. **
15. Go fishing! *
16. Witness the Kapayvanuvanua in Diura.*
17. Search for the best surf spot or go diving!
18. Take out your jacket and wrap around your scarf and experience winter in the Philippines! *
*- Highly Recommended
**- Recommended by Locals

Things to Bring

• Bring your personal medicines.
• Trekking shoes.
• Cash – ATM Cards, Credit Cards are rarely accepted and used.
• Sunblock, lip balm and sunglasses.
• Bug repellent.
• Jacket, or a scarf to protect from cold during the winter months.
• Extra memory cards and batteries for the camera – we almost used up 3 GB of photos and videos.
• Mobile phone and your chargers.
• Passports for foreigners and valid IDs for identification for locals.
• A well-stocked mp3 player.
• A good book to read while you wait for boats and flights.
• Ziplocs to keep your valuables from getting wet.
• Love for the environment and for the Ivatan culture!

Stay Away From

Drowning – Make sure you wear a working life-vest when swimming in bodies of water! Keep away from raging surfs as some of the areas may have rip tides. The boatmen would usually never travel when the seas are considered rough. Heed what the locals say. Don’t go if they tell you no.

Getting There

Basco Airport Terminal Building
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes is accessible through a 1 hour and 45 minute flight from Manila through Southeast Asian Airlines or SEAIR (http://www.flyseair.com/), the only airline that currently serves the Manila-Basco route through its 32-seater Dornier planes. While flight cancellations can be common due to bad weather, the flight was generally smoother than what we expected. It was our first time with SEAIR and we were quite pleased with their simple but efficient service. To book, check out their website (http://www.flyseair.com/) or you may call them +632 849.0100 or visit their office at 2nd Floor La’O Centre, Arnaiz Ave. Makati City, Philippines 1200. Currently, the Itbayat Airport is closed for renovation and improvement. Once it is opened, flights between Basco and Itbayat would hopefully commence and bypass the approximately 3-5 hours travel time between the islands by a faluwa.

Alternatively, there are flights coming from Tuguegarao in Cagayan Province through Batanes Airlines and Chemtrad but these are mostly seasonal flights. For the adventurous, one can take the boat (MISUBI Sea Transportation Cooperative) from Santa Ana, Cagayan which supposedly plies twice a week but we have no confirmation of this information.
Around Batanes, the most common form of transportation is by riding a bicycle, which is no wonder, the province is called the Bicycle Capital of the Philippines. There were very few jeepneys available in all the islands, and if I am not mistaken, there were only or two in the entire Sabtang.

Traveling to Sabtang (45 minutes from Batan) requires one to be up very early in the morning to catch the first, and maybe the only trip for that day. Be at the San Vicente Port by 6AM and you’d be safe. Remember to be flexible with your times here as we have experienced a 4 hour wait for a faluwa going to Sabtang and an 8 hour wait going back to Batan.

A Batanes Faluwa
Photo by Dave Ryan

Prepare to walk around town as there is a dearth of public transportation on all the islands (especially in Itbayat where there still no public transportation). Otherwise, you may want to arrange with your travel agent beforehand so that vans may be provided

Pagadian City

Pagadian City Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• To Do List
• Getting There

Before it was labeled as the Regional Center of Zamboanga peninsula, Pagadian city was virtually unknown. Today though, it has been getting its fair share of tourists in the Zamboanga peninsula. The word Pagadian was derived from a local word “pangadye-on” meaning prayer or praise.

Bounded by mountain ranges, tourists would notice that Pagadian’s topography is a bit like that of Hong Kong. You’ll find that most houses in Pagadian would have rising steps which lead to gated properties or houses. To me though, Pagadian’s hilly terrain is reminiscent of Baguio city. I always tell my mom that being in Pagadian is like being in Baguio because of the mostly overcast days, and the houses with rising steps at their doors or gates.

Pagadian
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Pagadian Tricycle
Photo by MikeOcampo

Another anomaly that I noticed was how the tricycles were built in Pagadian. I found that all tricycles are inclined (obviously because of the terrain). Pagadianons pride themselves in having these unique tricycles. They say that this is the only place in the country that one can enjoy public transportation which is inclined on a 25-40 degree angle. I felt intimidated to ride the strange looking vehicles at first but after riding them for a couple of times, I started to liken tricycle rides in Pagadian to roller coaster rides (especially if you are cruising uphill or downhill).

Pagadian Tricycles
Photo by Jerome Herrera

You can also find these tricycles parked at the tricycle terminal outside of the newly built Gaisano Capital mall. The mall is the biggest in the entire Zamboanga peninsula, bigger than malls in Zamboanga city. During the past few months, Pagadian city has been experiencing a staggering increase in growth. This expansion is fueled primarily by the transfer of regional offices from Zamboanga city to Pagadian city. The Gaisano Capital mall is one of the developments that came about because of the transfer. The Gaisano Capital houses popular chains such as Jollibee, Mc Donald’s, HBC, David’s Salon, and etc. The mall’s main features are the Gaisano Capital Supermarket, Gaisano Capital Department Store, and the Gaisano Food Court.

Gaisano Capital Mall: The biggest mall in the Zamboanga Peninsula is in Pagadian
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Another distinct feature of Pagadian is that the road network is in the form of a grid. It is almost as efficient as that of New York City. Unlike other Philippine cities wherein there are only two or three routes that you could take to reach a destination, you would find that in Pagadian, there would probably be more than a hundred routes that you can take to reach a certain destination.

About thirty minutes away from the city proper is the Pagadian Rotonda. It is a park which overlooks the Pagadian bay. Horseback riding can be found inside the circular park. Ten minutes away from the seaport are the Dao Dao islands. The islands are 1.10 hectares huge. One of the islands is called Dako (big) and the other is called Gamay (small). The activities that you could do at the Dao-Dao Islands are fishing, swimming, and boating.

Lourdes Hot and Cold Springs, which is only 32 kilometers away from the city. The springs are all natural, so it is assured that they are soothing and perfectly safe. The springs are also tapped by the city’s water district as a prime source of water for the barangays, particularly Kagawasan.

Pagadian also has its share of wonderful and beautiful waterfalls that are hidden from the entrapments of modernization.

My dad always said that the Ukay-Ukay (imported used clothing store) in Pagadian is so much better than anywhere in most of Mindanao. When he comes from this city, he would always have new clothes with him. When I got to Pagadian city, I did notice a huge number of Ukay-Ukay shops and indeed most of them does offer a wide array of nice clothing. So if you’re into Ukay-Ukay, you’d probably get some good deals here.

Why Not Go

The emergence of Pagadian city as a viable tourist destination is mostly due to the recent regional office transfers. A lot of tourist spots in the city are still being developed or renovated (from years of neglect). There remain only a small number of places to go in Pagadian which are unique and worthwhile. For people who are used to the usual beach resorts, shopping malls, nightlife, and parks, Pagadian city would probably be too tame for you.

Why Go

Pagadian city is the gateway to the Zamboanga Peninsula. Since most of the cities in the peninsula are fairly small and would not take all day to tour, you could squeeze Pagadian city in a multi city Zamboanga Peninsula tour.

Best Time to Visit

Pagadian city is lovely all year round. Since the city is out of the typhoon belt area, weather systems would not affect your travel plans. Another good thing about the weather in Pagadian city is that it is usually overcast. This may be good or bad news to you, depending on the climate in your area. To me though, the occasional mild sunshine and cloudy days of Pagadian are a welcome treat.

Pagadianons celebrate two festivals every year. The first is the Pasalamat Festival in January – this festival is a form of thanksgiving by Pagadianons for the blessings they received during the past year (pasalamat means to thank or be thankful for). Pasalamat festival features a beauty pageant, parades, and trade exhibits. The other festival in Pagadian is the Megayon festival. The Megayon festival celebrates unity and between the three peoples of Zamboanga peninsula: the Christians, Muslims, and Subanens. The festival runs for a week with activities featuring cultural dances and songs, native sports competitions, peace forums, and environmental events. Megayon is held every September 17th (Zamboanga Del Sur’s anniversary as a province).

Where to Stay

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The most famous and best hotel in Pagadian city is the Hotel Alindahaw. This hotel is perfect for business travellers, vacationers, or families. The hotel is fairly new so you can expect new furnishings and the hotel to be in tip top condition. The hotel is located along Rizal Avenue, within walking distance from Gaisano Capital. You can make reservations using this contact number: 062-215400, 062-2154001.

Where & What to Eat

Greenhouse Fishing Station and Restaurant is one of the better and more upscale restaurants in the city. The place is equally lovely both day and night. Day would bring out the expanse of the complex. You would see a huge pond just besides the restaurant wherein they get the freshwater fishes that they serve to the customers. For your drinks, you could also request for fresh Buko juice served in coconut husks. At night the whole area is adorned by lights which are the perfect setting for romantic dinners.

The Nipa Hut Restaurant at the Springland Resort and Hotel
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Another great dining option is the restaurant at the Springland Hotel and Resort. The restaurant offers delicious conventional dishes at very affordable prices. The resort features a hot spring swimming pool, a lake, and a very nice garden.

My to do List

1. Marvel at the views that Pagadian’s rolling terrain provides
2. Ride Pagadian’s wacky tricycles
3. Do some shopping at the Gaisano Capital mall
4. Dine at the Greenhouse Fishing Station and Restaurant
5. Enjoy horseback riding at the Pagadian Rotonda
6. Do some swimming at the Dao-Dao islands
7. Ukay-Ukay shopping

Getting There

Since the Pagadian city airport is not yet operational, the best way to get to Pagadian is by travelling by plane to a nearby city such as Dipolog city or Zamboanga city first and then riding a bus going to Pagadian city. Bus travel from Zamboanga city to Pagadian takes six hours and around four hours from Dipolog city.

The best thing about travelling by bus is that you get to enjoy views of the mountains in the Zamboanga Peninsula.