Philippine Geography

Last night I was online and got a message from a relative in Australia asking if I was okay after the bombing in Basilan. I replied that Basilan is over 1,000 kilometers (well over 600 miles) from Manila and is just off the coast of Malaysia. She then replied that she really needs to get an atlas. Most people around the world need to not only get an atlas, but also read it when it comes to the Philippines.

Just to help those who don’t know -The Philippines is the 12th most populated nation on Earth and is made up of 7,107 islands which stretch over 2,000 kilometers (Well over 1,200 miles) from Batanes in the north to Tawi-tawi in the south. Politically the country is divided into 80 provinces, 17 Regions and 3 Island Groups: Luzon in the north (where Manila is), Visayas in the centre and Mindanao in the south.

The Geography of Danger

It seems that many people overseas think that the whole of the Philippines is constantly experiencing problems with terrorist attacks. However, most of the troubles of this nature in Philippines are in the south western portion of the island of Mindanao which is over 1,000 kilometers to the south of the Philippine capital of Manila. Mindanao is the second largest island in the Philippines and the 19th largest in the world making it just over 1.5 times the size of Tasmania.

Speaking of Tasmania, let’s focus on one problem I have. Back in 1996 in Port Arthur, Tasmania when Martin Bryant went on what was at the time the world’s worst killing spree and shot 35 people who were mostly tourists; massive numbers of people didn’t suddenly cancel their trips to Australia or even the cities of Hobart and Launceston in Tasmania. Yet last year in November when the Maguindanao Massacre happened (57 killed in a politically motivated attack) people suddenly cancelled tours around Manila and jumped on the next plane back to their home countries. Maguindanao is literally on the other side of the country from Manila. It would be like people cancelling tours in New York when the LA riots happened, ridiculous.

This ignorance of Philippine geography is not only prevalent amongst foreign travellers but also amongst some Filipinos and some expats living in the Philippines. Many times I hear from people in Manila that Mindanao is dangerous and a no go zone. I went to Northern Mindanao last year and had a great time. I also met a lot of really friendly locals who helped me as much as they could on my travels. I travelled by taxi, tricycle, ferry, local (non air conditioned) bus, multicab, a friendly stranger’s brother’s van and also just walked. There was no point along the way that I felt like I was in danger. I also hear from foreigners who live in or travel in the more notorious parts of Mindanao, that they had similar experiences to mine. Perhaps it just comes down to having some good old fashioned street smarts when you travel.

The family we met in Mindanao who gave us a lift to our hotel. Thanks again guys!

Official Misinformation

Earlier this week, I was looking at the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade’s travel advisory website and was surprised to learn that their level of caution for the Philippines is exactly the same as Thailand. Thailand has bombings in the south just like the Philippines but that’s about where the similarities end. Thailand also has border skirmishes with Cambodia, Bird Flu, the Thai Government has declared a state of Emergency and people are dying on the streets of Bangkok amidst grenade attacks, shootings and the current protests by the Red Shirts. I was also surprised to learn that the site warns about the eruption of the beautiful Mayon Volcano in the Philippines. This volcano did have a small eruption back in December (concerned relatives in Australia asked if I was in danger even though Mayon is about 450 km away from Manila) and tourists actually flocked to Albay Province to take pictures of the streaming lava at night. It has since died down and I took my mother there last month and it really didn’t seem like a “hazardous magmatic eruption” was going to happen, as the DFAT suggests. In fact, PHILVOLCS agrees with my observation stating:

“This is a notice for the lowering of Mayon Volcano’s status from Alert Level 2 (evidence of magmatic intrusion that could eventually lead to an eruption) to Alert Level 1 (no hazardous eruption imminent).”

Even though PHILVOLCS issued this update on March 2, 2010, the DFAT website currently states that their advice on the danger of Mayon erupting “…is current for Friday, 16 April 2010.” It is sites like this which present a dangerous Philippines that just doesn’t seem to exist in reality.

Is it safe?

On our Tourism Philippines Facebook Fanpage (www.facebook.com/TourismPhilippines) the other week an American man asked if it was safe to come to the Philippines. Here is my response in which I quoted http://www.nationmaster.com/index.php :

“For murder per capita (US #24/Philippines not in top 62), rape (US #1/Philippines not in top 84), burglary (US #1/ Philippines not in top 68), executions (US #7/Philippines not on the list) the US is far more dangerous than the Philippines.”

The beautiful Mayon Volcano back in March 2010
Photo by Dave Ryan

The question of safety in the Philippines has to be one of the most common ones I hear and I believe it is so prevalent due the spread of misinformation and uninformed opinions that have spread across the internet and the media in general.

I have asked many people in the Philippines if they think it is dangerous here and the most common responses are either “No.” or “It’s no more dangerous than any other country, you just need to be a little street smart.” I totally agree with these comments. I wouldn’t walk down a street in a bad area I’m not familiar with at 3am in Manila. I also wouldn’t do the same in London, New York or Sydney for that matter. I’m also not the kind of traveller who arrives in a destination without knowing anything about the place. As travellers we must have some personal responsibility. On landing in Hanoi back in 2006, I hadn’t read up on the best way to get from the airport and was quite sleepy so my internal currency converter wasn’t working well. As a result, I was majorly ripped off by an unlicensed taxi driver. Ultimately, it was my own fault for not being prepared.

Crab Mentality / Tall Poppy Syndrome

After my previous article on the Philippines being portrayed negatively in foreign media was posted on countless blogs, a lot of people had their say about what I wrote. While a lot of the feedback was positive, there were also countless negative responses. One Filipino referred to Manila as a “festering sore” and others focused on corruption in the Philippines or poverty. While I have never stated that the Philippines has never had problems, I do feel that the over promotion of the negative aspects of this country has managed to squash most of the good that comes out of the Philippines. I also view this as a vicious cycle which gradually diminishes the pride of country that Filipinos have and erodes the international image of this nation further. I say this because it is exactly what I witnessed on the blogs. I wrote something good about the Philippines and many Filipinos ignored the positives and went back to saying how terrible the country is.

Our own Worst Enemy

Jojo A. Robles wrote on this in the Manila Standard in response to my article stating that:

“no one can out-criticize Filipinos like the Filipinos themselves, as we do every single day in our own media……. if we are to stop people in other countries from thinking that we live in a hopelessly corrupt, poor and dangerous country, perhaps we should begin by ending our own persistent and oft-stated belief that we do so in the first place.”

Last December when I took a walk through Quiapo in Manila with Carlos Celdran, I saw many of the things that may lead a person to think of Manila as a ‘festering sore’, however, I really enjoyed the experience and actually went back the following month. The culture and history of Quiapo is really quite amazing and all you have to do is walk down Hidalgo Street or around the occult stalls beside Quiapo Church to see it for yourself. I guess that one man’s trash can truly be another’s treasure and to quote Carlos Celdran, “You can’t change the way Manila looks, but you can change the way you look at Manila.” This country really needs a vast number of its citizens to change their perspectives in order to create a better image of The Philippines on the world stage.

Quiapo- Noise, pollution, chaos and culture. Incredible experience
Photo by Scott Allford

What it all boils down to in the end is that no country is perfect, but each is unique and beautiful in its own way. Sadly, the image of the Philippines has been under attack from all angles for quite some time. Nevertheless, many Filipinos and foreign visitors are starting to discover that while the Philippines does have many problems, it also has so many amazing experiences to offer if you’re willing to seek them out. As more people experience this country and word gets out, the perceptions of both locals and foreigners are becoming more informed. Ryan Buaron recently posted on our Facebook Fanpage (www.facebook.com/TourismPhilippines): “When we see something amazing in the Philippines, we usually exclaim “Parang hindi sa Pilipinas! (Looks like it’s not in the Philippines!) – WRONG. It should be – “Ang ganda talaga ng Pilipinas!” (The Philippines is really beautiful!).” As a result of this change in thinking, Pinoy Pride is slowly on the rise and the astounding ecological and cultural beauty of the Philippines and the warmth of its people are starting to become more than dull whispers to travelers around the world.

The Las Piñas Bamboo Organ
Photo by Ryan Buaron

The Bamboo Organ is not only appreciated for its uniqueness but also for its history. From 1816-1824 Fr. Diego Cera worked on the Bamboo Organ. He apparently buried the bamboo pipes by the banks of a nearby river for 2 years to cure them before incorporating them into the organ. Sadly, after a typhoon and an earthquake the pipes were damaged and the organ went unnoticed until 1917 when tourists realised how unique the organ was. However, as the organ is one of a kind and the man who built it had died many years before nobody knew how to repair the pipes. Finally in 1972, the entire organ was sent to Bonn, Germany to be restored and in 1975 it returned to St. Joseph Parish Church and a joyous welcome from Filipinos. As the organ is the only 19th century bamboo organ that exists and is still functioning, it was declared to be a National Cultural Treasure of the Philippines in 2003. Since its return Las Piñas has held the annual Bamboo Organ Festival which is now in its 35th year.

St. Joseph Parish Church, Las Piñas
Photo by Ryan Buaron

For the 35th year of the Bamboo Organ Festival a large number of musicians from the Philippines and around the world came to perform alongside this amazing instrument from February 18-24, 2010. I had the pleasure of seeing the organ played by internationally acclaimed organist, Guy Bovet. He started the concert by explaining that since the organ was built by a Spaniard but came from the Philippines, it has a character and a sound which reflects both cultures and proceeded to play both Spanish and Filipino compositions. Bovet’s knowledge of the Bamboo Organ was reflected in his playing as he created moving and astonishing music while demonstrating the range of the organ. During Bovet’s version of Pakitong Kitong we were able to hear one of the things that makes the Bamboo Organ even more unique as it can make a sound like chirping birds. The sound is so realistic many members of the audience were looking around the church expecting to see birds darting around under the lofty ceiling. MSGR. Albert Venus of St. Joseph Parish Church explained to me after the concert that the sound of chirping birds is the result of air moving past water in the bamboo pipes.

As part of Guy Bovet’s concert we were treated to the sounds of a second metal pipe organ at St. Joseph Parish Church which was made in 1995 by Edgar Montiano and Cealwyn Tagle. This organ is also unique as it is the only one in the world made by Filipinos. The sounds made by this organ were quite different and to see the skill and ease Bovet played it with was truly amazing as the organ has foot pedals for the bass notes as well as two keyboards.

Guy Bovet playing the Auditorium Organ
Photo by Ryan Buaron

To experience this exceptional instrument being played by world renowned musical masters it is only a short drive from the centre of Manila to the St. Joseph Parish Church in Las Piñas. The Festival is held every February and is really a must see cultural event in the Philippines. For more information on the festival be sure to check out the official Bamboo Organ website – http://bambooorgan.org/

The official parade
Photo by Scott Allford

The town of Kalibo is thought to have originally been settled by sailors from Borneo back in the early 1200’s. During the making of a peace pact between the local inhabitants (Aetas/Atis) and these settlers, the Borneans smeared soot on themselves to appear more like the Atis as a gesture of friendship. What ensued was a night of singing and dancing to drums and the Ati-atihan (meaning to look like the Atis) was born. When the Spanish came and brought Catholicism, the festival changed to incorporate more Christian features. As a result, in the modern day Ati-atihan you can see statues of the child Jesus being danced with to the sounds of drums and shouts of “Viva!” by participants smeared in black paint and dressed in colourful tribal costumes.

As I got closer to the centre of Kalibo the drums became louder and more infectious. One of the main characteristics of the festival is the drumbeats. Anywhere around Kalibo you can hear them thundering day or night. The festival itself is all around the streets of the town centre. Where exactly it’s hard to say as there is only a planned route on the last Saturday, which is for the official parade and judging. Otherwise, for three weeks, groups of people in elaborate costumes or everyday clothes dance and bounce non-choreographed steps randomly through the streets to the sounds of drums and glockenspiels.

Right after getting settled I headed to the town centre to see what was happening. The noise was amazing, with hundreds of different songs being played by a hundred different groups dancing through the streets. Everyone wore huge smiles in the friendly chaos of the festival. A few times I saw groups of 50 or more people in costumes and drummers make head on collisions as their groups random paths through the streets met, but it only made the participants smiles grow. Somewhere during the afternoon, I had to take a break so I went for a Paeapak, which is where a seminarian rubs a wooden statue of a Sto. Niño or the Child Jesus over points on your head and upper body to revitalise the spirit. I still wasn’t feeling totally revitalised so I made a quick stop by one of the many people with coolers on the road sides and picked up a beer before making my way back into the crowd. After a day of walking the streets there are a number of concerts around the town with local bands and big name Filipino bands playing. I relaxed to some food and a few beers watching some good music before making my way to bed.

A participant in full garb with a figure of the child Jesus
Photo by Scott Allford

On landing at Kalibo airport back in January for the Ati-atihan, I was filled with anticipation. I had read a lot about this festival being the most riotous festival in Asia and had wanted to take part in it since I first arrived in the Philippines. Luckily I know people in Kalibo, so accommodation was not hard to organise, and I booked my flights way back in August to guarantee myself a seat. For most of the year there is not a lot happening in Kalibo, but during Ati-atihan the population swells and the streets fill with people. So it’s smart to plan your trip months ahead.

Paeapak
Photo by Scott Allford

On the day of the official parade I was treated to a seemingly never ending procession of people in colourful costumes and scores of drummers and glockenspiel players. While it is a spectacle to watch, it is a toned down portion of the Ati-atihan as the route is planned and people line the sides of the route to watch rather than just joining in and dancing. I really prefer the joyous chaotic side of the festival. So after the parade I headed into the streets of the town centre to see what I could find. I wasn’t disappointed. A mass of colourful characters abounded. Amidst the dancing people in plain clothes and tribal costumes I found Atis selling potions and charms beside the church, Wonder Woman, two snake men with protruding tongues, a lanky foreigner painted in green with CDs for earrings, and Superman….wearing a diaper.

Superman…..wearing a diaper
Photo by Scott Allford

Then I joined a group with beverage in hand and danced through the streets. Beer showers were everywhere around me, and shouts of “Viva!’ rang out after every turn. Then as we proceeded down a little backstreet someone beside me shot off a Confetti Cannon. Some of the confetti flew into overhead electricity lines and shorted them out. A huge bang followed by glowing blue light emanated from the lines and a really weird buzzing sound filled the air accompanied by a strange burning smell. The crowd and drums fell completely silent and still as everyone watched until the light faded. Then all of a sudden a cheer of “WOOOOOOHOOOOOOO!” burst out from the crowd and the drums and dancing started again. After dancing the day away I headed to the school to catch a fireworks display before going off to catch a set by the famous Filipino band Rivermaya before going to sleep to the sounds of drum beats still emanating from the town centre.

The Ati-atihan experience is truly like no other as it is the epitome of good old fashioned fun. Along with this the festival itself is steeped in centuries of history which is unmatched by any other festival in the country. And as the festival has evolved to incorporate the various cultures that have inhabited the town of Kalibo through these centuries, Ati-atihan carries a feeling of the exotic and the familiar at the same time. This is not a festival for sitting back and watching, but rather one for getting in amidst it all and getting carried away by the beat of a thousand drums.

Quiapo Church
Photo by Scott Allford

Back in December 2009 we joined Carlos Celdran’s tour (Walk This Way – http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/ ) on a walk through Quiapo. The first thing that hit me was the chaos of the area. Everywhere there was traffic and people moving in every direction and a million smells and noises filling the air. On walking up to the SM Clearance Outlet at the end of Hidalgo Street we noticed a very large plume of smoke from a fire a couple of blocks away, but people only glanced at it and kept on rushing about and buying what they needed. Quiapo is known by many as offering some of the cheapest prices in Manila for whatever you need. Hidalgo Street is also known as Camera Street and has become somewhat of a mecca for photographers as any photography accessories you require can easily be found here usually for less than market prices. Stalls line both sides of the street and the middle of the street selling clothes, rice cakes, pasta, fruits, DVDs, CDs, sunglasses, bags, necklaces and much more. Before entering Hidalgo Street, Carlos advised our large group composed mostly of foreigners to follow the buddy system and never lose sight of our partner as it is easy to get lost in Quiapo. On the walk, or rather the shuffle through Hidalgo Street I experienced sensory overload with so much happening around me, but I was always mindful of my valuables and following the buddy system.

Walking along Hidalgo Street
Photo by Scott Allford

Finally we all made it through the hordes of people in Camera Street and came out into Plaza Miranda. This square in front of Quiapo Church was the site of the 1971 Plaza Miranda bombing where 9 were killed and nearly 100 injured during a political campaign rally held by anti-Marcos Liberal Party members. As I walked into the plaza I weaved my way through stalls selling flowers and fruits and caught glimpses of a protest for Human Rights going on in the centre. Plaza Miranda is also the site of the largest religious festival in the Philippines. Every year on January 9th millions of devotees gather to touch the holy Black Nazarene to be miraculously healed or blessed. They walk through the streets barefoot while the figure is carried in a golden carriage. The Black Nazarene was brought to the Philippines from Mexico in 1606 and both Pope Innocent X and Pope Pius VII have placed their blessings upon the statue. At all other times of the year the Black Nazarene is housed high in the altars of Quiapo Church. As we went there in December we were able to walk into the church and up a curving staircase behind the altar to touch the Black Nazarene’s foot. While the site of millions of devotees is something pretty amazing, going to see the Black Nazarene is much easier. When you touch the statue’s foot, you make your wishes or say your prayers and leave some sampaguita flowers which can be bought from the many vendors outside the church.

Me touching the foot of the Black Nazarene
Photo by Scott Allford

After this deeply Catholic experience you can step out through the side doors of the church and stock up on your occult supplies. In the shadows of the Quiapo Church all your supernatural needs can be met. If you’ve got a problem with an Aswang (vampire-like witch creature) you can find the solution here. Love potions made from lizard urine and a variety of other herb and animal concoctions can be found in numerous stalls on the edge of the plaza near Evangelista Street. I picked up a pendant for everything to do with travel which has a language that looks like Latin written on the back but is actually a Filipino version of Latin which nobody seems to understand but has apparent mystical properties. Also you can pick up a coloured candle to burn for whatever you need. There are a variety of colours to choose from and Carlos Celdran treated each of us to a candle. Red is for love, Green is for money, Black is for someone who wronged you to develop a conscience.

The Candles of Quiapo
Photo by Scott Allford

After an afternoon walking around Quiapo I was exhausted, but I also was kind of sad that my visit was over. Quiapo is a sort of microcosm of the Philippines with different cultural practices all mashed together and living in harmony with each other. The great thing about it is that it is located right here in Manila and is therefore only a short but unforgettable trip for any traveller who wants to experience a slice of Filipino history, culture and traditions.

A Christmas Tree made from coconuts in the Coconut Palace
Photo by Scott Allford

I had been told about Christmas in the Philippines being the longest in the world, however I was not able to comprehend how big Christmas is in this country until September 2008. Walking through the malls of Manila or down the main roads of the different cities, Christmas was everywhere. In a tropical country with a dearth of pine trees and no snow it was quite strange to be sitting in Starbucks drinking a coffee in early September to the sounds of Frosty the Snowman, I’m dreaming of a White Christmas, or Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire. I was recently travelling in Batanes in what was possibly the only van on Sabtang Island with Christmas tunes playing as well. The song switched from Jingle Bells to a reggae sounding guy saying “Christmas in the Philippines.” Then it went into “Shalalalala, Shalala in the morning.” And even more bizarre is that in October all of the Christmas decorations come down for a week while the Halloween ones go up. But right after Halloween everything goes back to Christmas.

If you’re in Manila around Christmas you can enjoy all of the lights and decorations around the city. Or for the more spiritually inclined there are an abundance of masses to attend. Starting on December 16th is the Simbang Gabi (Night Mass) which last for nine days and start as early as 4am. Usually after these masses, Filipinos sit down to a big breakfast and there are also numerous vendors outside churches selling foods such as bibingka (rice flour and egg-based cake, cooked using coal burners on top of and under the pastry), putò bumbóng (a purple, sticky rice delicacy steamed in bamboo tubes, with brown sugar and shredded dried coconut meat served as condiments), salabát (hot ginger tea) and tsokoláte (thick Spanish cocoa).

On Christmas Day (Noche Buena), family, friends and neighbours will drop by houses to wish families “Maligayang Pasko” (Merry Christmas). And there is never a shortage of delicious Filipino foods for all of the guests. I think that I ate six full meals last Christmas.

For other Christmas sights, you can make your way out to UP Diliman for the annual UP lantern Parade. Held on the last day of classes before the Christmas break, this parade started back in 1922 and is a procession of large Christmas floats around the campus. There are now parades at other UP campuses but the one in Diliman is the original and the biggest.

Pampanga Giant Lantern
Photo by ianong

Heading north of Manila you can see the Giant Lanterns in San Fernando, Pampanga. This is held every year on the Saturday before Christmas Eve with complex light displays and competitions. At 20 feet across and containing 3,500 – 5,000 light bulbs, the giant lanterns of San Fernando are really a sight to behold. Also in San Fernando is the Paskuhan Village (Hilaga Village), which celebrates everything about Christmas. With the lanterns and the Christmas village, San Fernando has become the Christmas capital of the Philippines.

Jojo’s Christmas Cottage
Photo by Scott Allford

Down in the Visayas on the Island of Panay is the town of New Washington. Apart from being home to the famous Cardinal Sin, this town also has the Sampaguita Gardens and Jojo’s Christmas Cottage where Christmas is celebrated 365 days a year. Inside is everything about Christmas, including little Christmas dolls from around the world, little Christmas villages, and signs saying Merry Christmas in every language. You can also check out the 1918 Model T Ford parked next to the cottage.

Lastly, right next to the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao is the Christmas Capital of Mindanao. In Tangub City, Misamis Occidental the whole city is covered in Christmas lights and symbols, and nativity scenes abound. This Christmas festival has actually made Tangub City one of the most visited destinations in the Philippines and is definitely worth a look.

Across this vast archipelago Christmas is celebrated in churches, homes and grand parades and each offers its own interesting insight into Filipino culture. And it is during this season that the infamous friendly nature of the Filipino people overflows with joyousness so it’s a great time to travel the country and meet the locals.

Taxi

Yellow Airport Taxi
Photo by Scott Allford

For anyone arriving at Ninoy Aquino International Airport (NAIA) the first form of transport you’re going to encounter is the taxi. I have been recently told that all terminals at the airport now have yellow airport taxis. These are your best bet to get to your destination without any hassles. They are a bit more expensive than the normal white taxis, but I have never had the slightest problem with them.

Also at NAIA, you can organise a car and driver through Avis for about US$15 to take you anywhere.

When it comes to the standard white taxi, many of the drivers (especially from the airport or near clubs on Fridays and Saturdays) don’t like to use the meter. Many white taxi drivers at the airport will show you an official looking card with expensive prices to different destinations in the city, such as US$40 to Greenhills. This is a scam. They should use the meter at all times. Using the meter the trip from the airport should cost between US$3 and US$5 depending on traffic. In general, if a taxi driver doesn’t want to use the meter then you’re getting ripped off. In that case, get out of the taxi and get another one. This is what we did in Cagayan De Oro in Mindanao recently, when the driver wanted to charge us double. As soon as we stepped out of the taxi, another one came and charged the right price. However, when it comes to taxis only the major cities have them. So in most of the provinces you’ll have to find other means of getting around.

MRT/LRT

Waiting for the MRT
Photo by Scott Allford

The easiest and cheapest way to get around Manila is by taking the MRT or LRT. There are 3 lines to choose from. The LRT 1 currently runs from Baclaran Station, Pasay City up to Monumento Station, Caloocan City. The LRT 1 is the oldest and dirtiest of the lines. Next is the LRT 2 which runs from Recto Station, Quiapo (just near the D. Jose Station for the LRT 1) out to Santolan Station, Marikina City. These carriages are the largest, cleanest, and newest of the three lines. Lastly is the MRT, which goes from Taft Ave, Pasay City (near the EDSA station of the LRT 1) up to North Ave, Quezon City. Living in Makati this is the one I take most of the time. Be warned that during peak times the carriages will be full to overflowing with hot and sweaty commuters. On all lines I’m always cautious and keep a constant watch on all my valuables. To get across the city on any of these lines should cost less than US$0.50. You can get single trip tickets or stored value tickets of up to 100 PHP from the customer service windows at each station. Construction is currently underway to extend both the LRT 1 and MRT lines.

Bus

A standard Manila bus
Photo by Scott Allford

In the Philippines you can get a bus from anywhere to anywhere. In the cities buses ply routes along all of the major roads. However, you should always ask locals about the best bus to take first, as in one instance I encountered a conductor who didn’t speak any English. That said, most conductors do speak English and will be able to give you information on getting to your destination. With buses in the Philippines you get on the bus and then after sitting down, the conductor will come and ask you where you are going and you will pay him/her. Most bus journeys are cheap, less than US$1 around the city and under US$20 for most long distance trips. You can even catch buses from Manila to Mindanao. Philippines buses are either air conditioned to the extreme (bring a jacket for longer trips), or not air conditioned unless you consider opening the window air conditioning. For the latter, trips are usually much cheaper, however long trips in hot weather can be quite uncomfortable. Please see the list of bus companies on this site for more information on Philippine buses.

Jeepney

A Batanes jeepney
Photo by Scott Allford

The most common form of transport and a national icon of the Philippines is the jeepney or jeep. They are actually relics of the vehicles used by American forces during the Second World War. You can also visit the Sarao Jeepney Factory in Las Piñas, which is actually quite interesting. All over the country you can wait by the side of any major road and eventually one will come along. Some useful language for jeepney travel is “Bayad po.” meaning “Here’s my fare.” and “Para po.” meaning “Please stop.” A basic jeepney fare is currently 7 pesos (under US$0.20), however for longer trips will cost more. Such as the one we did from Manila to Tanay, Rizal which cost 55 pesos (a little over US$1). On longer trips like these, passengers and drivers are usually very helpful with giving directions and tips on where to find of the beaten track sights. Beware that in some places jeepneys are not allowed to stop yet the drivers will slow down a little and encourage you to get on. One rainy day I took a bit of a fall and cut my leg open because the driver accelerated just as I had grabbed onto the back of the jeepney. Jeepneys hold 8 or more people depending on the size of the vehicle and usually they will be loaded to their maximum capacity before undertaking a journey. In Makati City they have recently introduced E-jeepneys, which run entirely on electric power, however I haven’t had the chance to ride one yet.

Tricycle

A tricycle in Tabilaran, Bohol
Photo by Scott Allford

In most provinces and cities in the Philippines, tricycles are the main form of public transport. They’re a motorcycle with an attached and covered sidecar and they vary in shape and size. The ones in Kalibo in Aklan, Tagbilaran in Bohol, and Tanay in Rizal are the more spacious versions I have encountered and the ones in San Fernando in Pampanga are the smallest I’ve been in so far. Always be careful of hitting your head on the roof when going over bumps. Tricycles are cheaper than a taxi but way more expensive than jeepneys or buses. Before riding a tricycle always try and ask a local about how much you should pay as prices can jump for non-locals. Also be aware that if you board a tricycle to cross flood waters you should expect the price to double or triple. In Manila and some of the provinces you will also find the pedal powered version of the tricycle.

Bangka

Big bangkas in Guijalo, Caramoan Peninsula, Camarines Sur
Photo by Scott Allford

Being and archipelago of 7,107 islands, travelling in the Philippines means that at some point you will have to travel by sea. For island hopping tours and getting from island to island in general, the most common form of transport is the Bangka. These vary in size from the big ones in the above picture which seat 30-40 people to tiny ones that barely seat 4 people, 5 if the boatman stands up the whole time. In the more popular tourist destinations an island hopping trip by Bangka can cost up to 2,000 pesos (about US$45). But for general transport between islands such as between Caticlan and Boracay the fare is very small. Be advised that in some destinations boatmen will always say that it is safe to travel even if it isn’t. Going from Pundaquit to Anawangin Cove in Zambales the waves were more than twice the height of us in our tiny 4 seater Bangka yet it wasn’t until we made it back to Pundaquit that our boatman admitted it was really dangerous. We’ve also heard of many bangkas capsizing on the crossing from Batangas to Puerto Galera, so if you don’t think it’s safe then go with your gut and wait for the waves to calm down. That said, the boatmen in Batanes will tell you if the sea is too rough as they really know the sea and I fully trusted in their ability to get us from port to port.

Planes

The smallest plane I’ve ever flown in. El Nido, Palawan
Photo by Scott Allford

There are a few airlines flying within the Philippines. Philippine Airlines is the premiere airline and usually the more expensive one. They also operate PAL Express which uses smaller planes and charges less for fares and their other budget airline Air Philippines. Cebu Pacific flies to most destinations and is pretty cheap, but they have a very poor customer service (I’ve been waiting 18 months for a refund from them) and in my experience are late most of the time. SEAIR have older planes and are pretty expensive but they fly to more exotic destinations which are off the usual tourist trail. Zest Airways (Formerly Asian Spirit) had 2 minor accidents in Caticlan this year but apart from that are usually the cheapest. There are also numerous small airlines that fly specific routes such as Island Trans-voyager who fly from Manila to El Nido, but usually flights are quite pricey.

Motorellas, Multicabs, Hubal-hubal, and Vans

A motorella at Benoni Port, Camiguin
Photo by Scott Allford

In Mindanao, or specifically in the island province of Camiguin you will find the motorella. In many ways it is similar to a Thai tuk-tuk. Seating 8-10 people they are a convenient mode of transport. However, in Camiguin most forms of transport are reasonably expensive and the motorella is no exception to this. Many popular destinations also have multicabs which are like small trucks or vans with open backs. They can be hired for a day tour and are also used by many resorts such as those in Boracay away from White Beach to transport guests from the hotel to D Mall. We also rode the multicabs around Manolo Fortich in Bukidnon.

A hubal-hubal is simply a motorbike or scooter. They are a reasonably cheap form of transport for 2-3 people (including driver), however I prefer to have a bit more metal protecting me from sliding down the road in the case of an accident, so I only use them if there is no other choice.

Lastly , there are vans which run between many cities and to popular destinations all over the country. To hire a van exclusively is usually one of the most expensive ways to travel. However, travelling in a public van from Naga City to Sabang in Camarines Sur only cost 90 pesos (about US$2) for a 1.5 hour trip.

As you can see there is a multitude of ways to get from point A to point B in the Philippines. And while many of your trips will be simple, from time to time you may be able to get to experience weaving through traffic in a jeep, flying down the national highway in a topless tricycle (Korong-korong as it is called in Ilocos Norte), or just sitting back to a Filipino romance flick on a long bus trip. Just remember to be prepared to be patient and always plan ahead so you have an idea of where you are going or at least bring a map. Lastly, while travelling around the country, don’t be afraid to talk to locals travelling with you who are usually more than happy to help with directions or give you some useful travel tips.

The choices to be had when it comes to street food in the Philippines are seemingly endless. While there may be a large selection for the more carnivorous diner, vegetarians have quite a few choices as well. So here is a list of my top 5 non-meaty street delicacies.

A street vendor grilling up a feast in Manila
Photo by Scott Allford

Coming in first place is a personal favourite of mine and an overall delicious snack or meryenda called Turon. This almost dessert-like snack is made from Cavendish bananas which are halved and then rolled in brown sugar. Then some jackfruit is added and it’s all rolled up in a spring roll wrapper. This little parcel of deliciousness is then fried in oil and some more brown sugar. There are also some different variations that I have discovered recently as well, one version has chocolate sauce injected into the centre and because you can never go wrong with bananas and ice cream, there is always turon al a mode. Prices vary, but you should be able to pick up some turon for around 10 pesos a roll.

Where you find turon you are pretty much guaranteed to find another tasty snack – Banana-cue. Banana-cue is like turon without the wrapper and jackfruit. Usually you will find it as two whole Cavendish bananas on a skewer. The bananas are friend and coated in brown sugar. These again can be picked up for around 10 pesos. Sadly, both turon and banana-cue tend to be more of a lunch time snack and disappear from the majority of street stalls once it gets dark.

Want a quick nibble on your way home? Then you can pick up some peanuts steamed in their shells or fried in oil. My favourites are the fried variety and they also come in chilli and garlic flavours, however, sometimes they can be a tad too salty. Depending on how many you get and how big the bag is they’ll cost you 5 – 10 pesos.

Boiled Peanuts
Photo by Scott Allford

Fried Peanuts
Photo by Scott Allford

Also if you’re on the run you can grab some Dirty Ice Cream. It sounds bad but it’s not really dirty. The name comes from the fact that it’s sold in little carts on the streets exposed to pollution and served without gloves. You can get it in a variety of unique flavours: ube(yam), queso (cheese), buko (coconut), and the usual chocolate or vanilla. You can stick with one flavour or mix it up. They also come in different cones: sugar cone, wafer cone, and I’ve even heard in bread buns. Prices will differ depending on how big your serving is.

Green Mangoes
Photo by Scott Allford

Lastly, we come to green mangoes which are not my absolute favourite because of their sour taste, but still quite delicious. These are simply unripe mangoes or Indian mangoes which are green in colour. They are usually cut in half and the seed is removed and then it is placed on a skewer. A generous helping of Bagoong (shrimp paste) is then applied and it’s ready to eat. You can pick up one slice for about 10 pesos.

All of these foods offer their own great tastes and with each street delicacy comes an interesting cultural experience that doesn’t usually get a mention in the in-flight magazines. So for your next meal, get outside to enjoy the sunny weather and grab some food from the street.

A brief Biography

Born in the province of Bukidnon, Mindanao and now residing in South Cotabato (That’s right, the island of Mindanao is not all about bombs and war as people actually live quite happily there too), Pacquiao is considered to be a champion of the people as he comes from the working class. He started his professional boxing career at the young age of 16 and since 1995 he has accumulated a record of 2 draws, 3 losses, and an amazing 50 wins, 40 of which came by way of KO or TKO. As a result, Manny Pacquiao has become somewhat of a living legend in the Philippines.

Pacquiao with his trainer Freddie Roach at Pacquiao’s Christmas and birthday bash
Photo by Frederick Manligas Nacino (Opusdeiphotography)

Not only has Pacqiao set numerous records in the boxing world, he has also given the sport new publicity and brought it back to life. His success has also instilled a greater deal of national pride in the average Filipino. Any time he fights, it is said that the crime rate in the Philippines stalls or drops to zero because everyone is glued to the TV screen watching him fight. In fact, most Filipino’s will proudly tell you that the Pacman is the “Number one pound for pound boxer”. This is the title given to Pacquiao by Ring Magazine. But his list of titles doesn’t stop there.

Just to name a few of his titles, he is the WBC World Flyweight Champion, IBF World Super Bantamweight Champion, WBC World Super Featherweight Champion, WBC World Lightweight Champion, WBC World Welterweight Champion, OPBF Flyweight Champion, WBC International Super Bantamweight Champion, WBC International Super Featherweight Champion, IBO World Light Welterweight Champion, World Featherweight Champion, 2006 and 2008 fighter of the year, 5 time PSA sportsman of the year, 2008 WBC Boxer of the year, and also one of TIME magazine’s 100 most influential people (Heroes and Icons category). He is also famed for being the first person to win seven world titles in seven weight divisions. This is possible due to the fact that he has moved up in weight class over the years from the Light Flyweight Class all the way to Welterweight where he now sits.

But aside from boxing, Pacquiao also has political aspirations and a music career. If you tuned into Jimmy Kimmel Live recently you would have seen the Pacman serenading his fans with the song “Sometimes when we touch”. He also has a movie career and numerous advertising and sponsorship deals. However, to find out more about Pacquiao outside of the ring you can grab a copy of Paquiao: The Movie, released in 2006.

The Experience

Poster: PACQUIAO VS COTTO

For the recent fight against Puerto Rican boxer Miguel Cotto, I was lucky enough to be at Legaspi Market in Makati. On one side of the market a small flat screen TV had been set up and as the fight started everyone in the market gradually gravitated towards it. In fact, I believe that by the 9th or 10th rounds of the fight a few stall owners were getting annoyed that Cotto wouldn’t stay down as they wanted to get back to selling as there were little or no customers. As the fight went on, the crowd around the screen became larger by the second. At one point in the 4th round I turned around and saw that nobody was shopping as Pacquiao had their undivided attention.

The first round easily went to Cotto, but from there on the Pacman began to dominate. As a result of Pacquiao’s fighting prowess, the Oooooh’s and Aaaah’s from the crowd became louder and more frequent as people packed in tighter around the little TV. I almost became a little too involved in the action myself when a large Filipino woman started shadow boxing beside me. Luckily I dodged her elbow before it connected.

By around the 6th round it began to be clear that Pacuiao would be the likely victor, and the regular sounds of the crowd became interspersed with chants of “Manny, Manny, Manny!” In between the rounds, as the crowd saw close up shots of Cotto’s face it elicited laughter from some members of the crowd and each time Cotto fell to the ground huge cheers and applause broke out. Then, as Cotto’s white satin shorts became more and more soaked with blood many remarked “Wow! He’s a bleeder.” As Cotto’s lips swelled to a size that would have made Angelina Jolie jealous and he staggered and dropped his guard calls of “Finish him!” could be heard. Everyone knew it was all over and in the 12th round, Pacquiao was declared winner by TKO. Happy cheers rang out and everyone wore a huge smile as they returned to their business.

The experience of the crowd is not one I will forget soon. When Pacquiao fights it seems to bring all people together. While there were many Filipinos watching the fight there were also quite a few foreigners as well. Total strangers discussed the fight, shook hands and exchanged smiles once it has all ended and a feeling of camaraderie permeated the crowd. And although I am not a fan of boxing, the experience of being there for a Paquiao fight is one I wouldn’t mind going through again. I hear that Paquiao’s coach is pushing for a fight with Floyd Mayweather Jr., so I guarantee I’ll be seeking out a big public viewing if that fight ends up happening and I advise anyone who hasn’t seen a Paquiao fight in the Philippines to do the same.

About to eat my first balut

The number one street food that the traveller will always be asked if they’ve tried by Filipinos would have to be balut. Eating Balut is an unofficial rite of passage for any traveller in the Philippines because when you tell a Filipino you have eaten balut you express that you are willing to experience Filipino culture. It took me quite a while to work up the courage to eat it as it sounds so disgusting. Balut is a boiled fertilised duck egg with a partially developed embryo inside. With my first balut I could see the beak and an eye socket but the second one had no distinguishable features. The way to eat it is to crack a hole in the shell, suck the juice out and then eat everything inside. I thought that the white of the egg would be the safe part but it’s really chewy, the best taste is actually the yolk and the chick, and you can feel the protein with every bite. You can find balut from street vendors for 10-20 pesos.

Delicious Kwek Kwek
Photo by Panlasang Pinoy

Another great street food surprise for me has to be kwek-kwek. This street delicacy is made from either chicken eggs or duck eggs which are coated in an orangey (food colouring) mixture of flour, baking powder, water, salt, and pepper then they are deep fried. After it has been deep fried you can eat it with vinegar, gravy, or with whatever sauce the vendor has. So get your kwek-kwek for 7-10 pesos. Tukneneng is the quail egg version of this snack and you will usually find 4 Tukneneng on a skewer for about 10 pesos.

Adidas
Photo by Scott Allford

Many Pinoy street foods have funny names which come from their shape or from what they are such as Helmet (fried chicken head), Adidas (chicken feet), or Walkman (barbecued pigs ears). A must try from these strangely named concoctions has to be Beta Max. This is curdled or dried chicken or pigs blood which is cut into little squares resembling a Beta Max tape. I’m not a big fan of eating blood as in the past I’ve had various types of boiled blood in other countries and it tasted like meaty chocolate mousse. Beta Max has a mild meaty taste but goes really well with vinegar or other sauces the vendors sell with it. I would definitely eat it again and for only 3 pesos a stick it’s not gonna break the bank.

Beta Max
Photo by Sidney Snoeck

On a side note, I have been warned about vendor’s sauces, while some vendors will dish up the sauce and give it to you, others simply have a jar filled with sauce that you dip your food into, however some people dip their food, then take a bite of their food and dip it in the sauce again. And we all know that no matter what country we are in we have to be careful sharing food with strangers if we haven’t had our vaccinations for Hepatitis.

Isaw
Photo by Scott Allford

Two of the most common foods you’ll find at street food stalls is Isaw, which is also called IUD (like the one used for contraception) and Squid/fish balls. Simply put, Isaw is barbecued chicken intestines on a skewer. I’ve had pig intestines in Korea and they we’re pretty bland but good with sauce and the same goes for Isaw. At about 5 pesos they make a good snack on the run. Squid balls or Fish balls are balls of squid/fish mixed with flour and a mix of other ingredients. They puff up when deep fried and like with most other Manila street foods they go great with the sauces on the vendor’s cart. They range from about 3-5 pesos each (Squid Balls) and 25 centavos a piece for Fish Balls.

In the Philippines I have travelled in luxury and I have also travelled as a backpacker. While eating great food in classy restaurants is nice, I have found that I have more memorable travel experiences when I eat what the locals eat where they eat it. Enjoying any of the street foods I have mentioned here is much more than a culinary experience as you get to interact with the people and experience what things are really like down at street level.

Part 2 of Philippine Street Food >

Lechon Cebu
Photo by 2rokbotoy

Starting off with one of the most famous and one of my personal favourites, in the Visayas on the island of Cebu you’ll find the super succulent Lechon Cebu. Recently Anthony Bourdain of Travel Channel show No Reservations fame commented on his love of Lechon Cebu, “It can now be said that of all the whole roasted pigs I’ve had all over the world, the slow roasted lechon I had on Cebu was the best.” And I would have to whole heartedly agree with him. Slowly roasted and turned for hours the meat is so succulent and the skin is super crispy. Be warned that the skin is the part favoured by many so be sure you get a piece before it’s all gone.

Heading over from Cebu to the Island of Negros a number of local delicacies await. First of all is the Famous Piaya which can be found at Bongbong’s Pasalubong Center in Bacolod City. It’s made with flakey wheat flour dough and stuffed with muscovado, and is kind of like the ultimate pop-tart. Another favourite which can be found all over the Philippines but originated in Negros is Chicken Inasal. It’s basically chicken marinated in a mix of vinegar, calamansi, garlic and annatto seeds. The chicken is put onto skewers and grilled and the smell that wafts from this delicious grilled chicken dish is amazing.

Ted’s La Paz Batchoy

Still in the Visayas but over in the Island of Panay in the city of Iloilo, make sure you stop by Ted’s La Paz Batchoy. While you can find branches of Ted’s in other locations around the Philippines, but the branch in Iloilo is the original and was started over 60 years ago in the La Paz market, Iloilo by Federico Guillergan, Sr. La Paz Batchoy is a noodle soup made with different variations of ingredients including: pork organs, crushed pork cracklings, shrimp, vegetables, chicken stock, chicken breast, beef loin and round noodles. It’s a really great meal for any time of the day and offers some really unique tastes.

Pastel Bread
Photo by Dave Ryan

Going south to Mindanao you will come across the island of Camiguin. While Camiguin is more famous for its lanzones fruit (which I didn’t like until I tried Camiguin Lanzones which were delicious), I fell in love with their pastel bread. This sweet bread with a gooey candied milk centre will win over any sweet tooth. Even though I do like my sweets, I could only eat a maximum of three in one sitting before my stomach was overwhelmed by the sugar in Pastel bread. They come in a variety of flavours but the original is a must have for any Camiguin visitor. While you can pick a box from the Benoni port or the Cagayan De Oro airport, you can also go right to the source and get a box in Mambajao, Camiguin.

Fresh Durian
Photo by Scott M. Allford

Finally in the province of Lanao Del Norte you can pick up a drink that you’ll never forget. In the city of Iligan you can pick up a delightfully sweet and flavourful Durian Shake from Iliganon. While many people have a hard time getting past the smell of durian (and it really does stink), the fruit itself is really tasty. It also seems that in Mindanao durian tastes better than anywhere else in the Philippines. The Durian shake is so sweet and super thick and Iliganon is a really good place to sit back, relax and enjoy.

Del Monte Golf Club meal with Pineapple Shake
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

For other famous foods in Mindanao you should make a trip into Bukidnon and the Del Monte Pineapple plantation. Here you will find some of the tastiest pineapples on the planet. At the Del Monte Golf Club in Manolo Fortich you can pick up a reasonably priced three course meal with a tasty pineapple shake. Also famous for food in Mindanao is the city of General Santos in the southern province of Sarangani. General Santos is known as the Tuna Capital of the Philippines and every September they have a Tuna Festival with a Tuna Culinary Contest where delicious tuna treats can be tasted by all.

While this is only a small sample of all the different foods you will encounter while travelling around the Philippines, they’re my favourites. I’m sure that on my future travels around these regions, new taste sensations which will truly delight the senses await. But in the end a great thing about the Philippines is that at the end of a long days travel, it’s really good to know that you can sit down to a truly delicious meal which is familiar yet exotic at the same time.