Tawi-Tawi

Tawi Tawi Travel Guide

• Why Not Go
• Why Go
• Best Time to Visit
• Where to Stay
• Where & What to Eat
• Nightlife
• To Do List
• Stay Away From
• Getting There

A charming and majestic chain of islands straddling peacefully between Sulu Sea and Celebes Sea in the southwestern Philippines is the exotic Tawi-Tawi province. Here, you have hundreds of beautiful tropical islands and islets to choose from with unspoiled white-sandy beaches and serene landscapes. From sacred mountain and the rolling hills where the provincial capitol building is located to white-sandy beaches of hundreds of islets plus the gentle and so kind local people, Tawi-Tawi is truly a paradise. And by the way, it is very safe here because the locals from different groups are living harmoniously altogeter.

Tawi-tawi consists of 307 islands in the southwestern part of the Philippines. In fact, the province is a lot closer to Sabah, Malaysia than to Mindanao (where this province belongs). The locals here consist mainly of Tausug, Sinama, and Bajao. There are also coming from nearby provinces of Sulu and mainland Mindanao. They are peace-loving people and they live here harmoniously. Because of the unfair mainstream media, Filipinos and foreigners find Tawi-tawi as a no-go or dangerous destination. What we have heard or seen in the TV news is totally opposite. Tawi-Tawi is relatively safe. The capital town is Bongao.

Sunrise
Photo by Robert

Why Not Go

If you are looking for posh malls, bars, clubs and all night fun in street parties just like in Manila or other big Philippine cities, this is not a perfect destination for you.

Why Go

Tawi-Tawi has a lot to offer to travelers whether group or solo traveler. If you love mountain climbing, they have it here. Standing so proud in Bongao Island is the Bud Bongao which is considered as a sacred mountain by the locals.

They have beautiful beaches and the province is perfect for island hopping to nearby islands such as Simunul where the first mosque in the Philippines was built.

It is quite interesting that the locals here are from different groups such as Tausug, Sinama, Bajao, and other groups from Mindanao and they are living peacefully and harmoniously. These people love to talk with the outsiders. You’ll become an instant rockstar in here.

Sunset
Photo by Robert

Best Time to Visit

This province is not located along the typhoon belt of the Philippines, thus visiting here can be done all year round. But since this tropical archipelagic province is located between Sulu Sea and Celebes Sea, rains may fall at any given time but lasts only for a short period of time which is common to tropical places surrounded by waters.

Where to Stay

Save up to 75% on hotels in Philippines

I stayed at Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant. The good thing in this hotel is that it is just a walking distance from the town center but away from the hustle and bustle. Standard room costs PhP 850 per night. You can reach them at 068-268-1248 for reservation. Tricycle fare from here to the town center (if you don’t want to walk) is only PhP10.

One can try also Beachside Inn (068-268-1446) but it is a lot farther from the town center. Tricycle fare from the town center up to here is PhP20. I went here one night for a beer or two. They have barbeque choices here as well as karaoke. This is where the locals hangout for the night because of the breezy ambiance as it is located by the beach. I was able to talk to the owner and she asked me to try their place to stay the next time I come to Tawi-Tawi.

Bongao Town Center
Photo by Robert

Where & What to Eat

If you want to try local Tawi-Tawi foods such as sati, you can go to any eating places at the town center or near the pier. One can also find Malaysian food here such as nasih goreng. But I don’t recommend the eating places here because of not-so-clean location. The main drawback in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi is trash. There are many litters along the streets of Bongao. I hope that the locals here would work hand in hand for the cleanliness of their surroundings. I believe that cleanliness begets tourists, tourism begets job, and job begets better life. For sure, Tawi-Tawi will become a perfect paradise if there are no trashes around.
I highly recommend the foods at Rachel’s Place Hotel & Restaurant.The Beachside Inn has tasty and delicious barbeques as well.

Nightlife

Although the dominant religion here is Islam, one can find alcohol here. I spent my night at the Beachside Inn for a beer or two and it is also the best place to see and to be seen during the night.

My to do List

• Climb the Bud Bongao – Wherever you are in Bongao or Sanga-Sanga islands, this sacred mountain catches your attention. It’s like a head-turner in this side of Tawi-Tawi. According to the locals, you have never been to Tawi-Tawi if you have not climbed Bud Bongao. From the town center or wherever your hotel is, just hire a tricycle and tell the driver to drop you off at the jump-off point of Bud Bongao and pay him PhP25. Climbing here is so easy. It takes only up to 1 hour going up to the summit since this mountain is not that tall. You have to make sure that you have a good-grip type of footwear, endurance, and don’t forget to bring bananas with you because you will encounter macaque monkeys along the way up. These bananas will serve as your gift to these cute monkeys. These monkeys are said to be the guards of this sacred mountain. One strange thing here, you will never encounter them again on your way down. Once you are at the summit, your eyes can capture the nearby islands such as Sanga-Sanga island with its airport runway as well as the outline of Sabah, Malaysia during clear sunny day. Essential things to bring here are bananas for the monkey and a liter or two of bottled water for you. Just wear light clothes and a good-grip type of footwear. For those who hates the extreme heat of the sun at the peak of this mountain, you may want to bring bullcap or pashmina shawl with you.

Bud Bongao
Considered as a sacred mountain by the locals
Photo by Robert

Cleanliness is Next to Godliness
A friendly reminder written in Tausug dialect with English translation. Tausug is one of the dialects spoken here. Others are Sinama, Cebuano, Chavacano, and Bahasa.
Photo by Robert

Bud Bongao Summit
From here, one can see the runway of the Sanga-Sanga airport. It’s a perfect place for plane spotting. On a very clear day, the outline of Sabah Malaysia can be seen from this point. The islands of Simunul, Sibutu, Sitangkai, and smaller ones are very visible.
Photo by Robert

• Stroll at the Chinese Pier (locally known as jambatan) – You will see several boats dock at the pier. These boats transport people, goods and animals from one island to another. I was able to talk to friendly locals here and they said that they have the so-called “back-door boat” that can transport them to Malaysia illegaly. They do this to find a better life there and could send money back home. The pay to this boat can range from PhP1500 to PhP3000. They don’t even bring their passport with them because they don’t go through to Malaysian Immigration control. Once at the port of call in Malaysia, they will be disembarked stealthly by the boat operators. The chance of getting caught by the Malaysian police is so high. That is why many of our fellows return to Tawi-Tawi empty handied and back to their real lives here.

Houses on stilts
Photo by Robert

Chinese Pier
Photo by Robert

• The Provincal Capitol – This capitol has a unique image because it looks like a mosque. It is located at the Capitol hill. It is better to go up here in the afternoon up to early evening as the backdrop of the town center lights add to the magnificent view from here. From the Capitol building, you will see the sprawling town center of Bongao as well as the nearby islands of Sanga-Sanga, Pababag, and Simunul. Just hire a tricycle and tell the driver to drop you off at the jump-off point going to the Capitol. Fare is PhP15 from the town center.

The Provincial Capitol of Tawi-Tawi
Photo by Robert

• Island hop to Simunul Island – It is where the first mosque was built and Islam was established by Sheik Makdum.

• Talk to the locals – As I have mentioned previously, the locals are from different groups but they live peacefully and harmoniously. They are so friendly and they love to talk with the outsiders. You will become an instant rockstar here.

Stay Away From

Crimes, whether big or small, happens anywhere in the world. So, be vigilant to your surroundings where ever you are. In Tawi-Tawi, I never felt unsafe in any situation. Again, it is only due to the unfair news report spread by the mainstream media that created bad images to this southwesternmost province of the Philippines. It’s more fun in Tawi-Tawi because it is very safe here.

Getting There

Thanks to Cebu Pacific and Airphilexpress, getting to Tawi-tawi is now a piece of cake unlike before. Years ago, one had to take almost an entire day for a boat ride from Zambonga to here. Even though these boats are still another option, the best pick to go to Tawi-Tawi is by airplane which takes only 45 minutes from Zamboanga. By the way, there is no direct flight between Manila and Tawi-Tawi. One has to catch first a flight to Zamboanga. Zamboanga can be reached by plane from any large cities in the Philippines such as Manila, Cebu, and Davao. The flight between Zamboanga and Tawi-Tawi is only 45 minutes and the plane lands at Sanga-Sanga Airport.

Sanga-Sanga Airport Terminal
Photo by Robert

At the airport, there are tricycles waiting for the passengers. It is better to contact your hotel beforehand if they have an airport-hotel transfer, otherwise you may want to take the tricycle that will cost you PhP100. Tricycle ride from airport (which is in Sanga-Sanga Island) takes 10 to 15minutes to get to the town center of Bongao (in Bongao Island). In Bongao, the mode of transportation is tricycle in which the regular fare is PhP10 while boat is essential by going to other island municipalities. There are no taxis here.

Guest Writer: My name is Robert L. Mamacos. I am an engineer by profession (Electronics & Communications Engineer). Currently, I work in an American engineering firm in Ortigas Center. I love travelling and I am a backpacker. I have been to USA, Japan, China, Taiwan, Italy, Netherlands, most of Southeast Asia, and almost the entire Philippines as well. I was born and raised in Davao City. Now I live in Manila since 2002.

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Asian in looks, with mixtures of Chinese and Malay with some little Spanish, Filipinos may have features ranging from chinky eyes (as how the locals call for those eye slits that Chinese are famous for – yes like mine), to big round eyes similar to the Malays and mix of brown and yellow skin. One thing which is frequent here though is that most Filipinos have small frames and low in stature, I felt immediately at home here being of somewhat similar, I have to admit. In fact, many here commented I look like a Filipina, and most people I met will converse with me in Tagalog (their local national language) naturally for the first time and I had countless taxi drivers insisting I look deceptively like a local. Maybe that is how I get to blend in easily, something I am quite thankful for.

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“There are Starbucks everywhere here!” I exclaimed as we walk passed one at an obscure highway stop.

“Yes, because we Filipinos,” B started explaining “want to live the American dream”

There is no doubt that many, if not all, Filipinos that have the American dream, and why not? In land of America it seems that anything is possible, it is where dreams go and be realized. It was said that long time ago, Philippines nearly became a part of America, just that war happened and the rest as they say, is history. Nevertheless, I do meet a lot of Filipinos who their heart is strongly rooted in their own homeland, who would willingly stay and grow the country, but sadly there are even more that look at, live by and dream of America.

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As you can see, as how Carlos Celdran aptly puts it, Filipinos are a mixture of sorts – Spanish in name, Asian in looks but American at heart, just like its most famous dessert halo-halo which literarily means mix-mix.

Chow’s King Halo-halo @ Manila, Phillippines
Photo by Rachel

This icy dessert had reminded me of my Malaysian Ais Kacang, minus the the kacang (no kidding), where there is shaved ice drenched in condensed/evaporated milk or just milk and sugar and then mix in with various ingredients of sorts. The usual suspects are red mung beans, sugar palm (kaong), coconut sport (macapuno), jackfruit strips, purple yam (ube) paste, crushed young rice (pinipig), leche flan and caramelized banana. Some even say that it is not complete without a dollop of ube (yam) ice cream, and only ube flavour for the authenticity!

As we can see even the ingredients are mixtures of culture of red mung beans from the Chinese, leche flan from the Spaniards and shaved ice from the Americans (source from Wikipedia). From my 100 days stay there, I learn that, as ironic as it may sound, being a mixture of sorts and of no distinct identity is what makes Filipinos unique. Just like how the mixture of halo-halo that sort of make you think that the dessert couldn’t make up its mind on what it wants to be that makes it so uniquely delicious.

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One of the best authentic original halo-halo I tried (with nearly all the ingredients mentioned above) turns out to be from one of the famous chain restaurants in the Philippines – Chow King. (first picture above)

Chow King
Almost everywhere in Metro Manila and beyond!

Razon’s Halo-halo @ Manila, Phillippines
Photo by Rachel

Another variation of halo-halo (picture above), stripped down to nearly bare naked of essentials – leche flan, macapuno (coconut sport) and caramelized banana, was truly a league of its own for its really smooth shaven iced doused in creamy sweet milk and its minimal critical ingredients.

Razon’s of Guagua
Scattered around Metro Manila

Guest Writer: Three months stint in Philippines, Rokh has almost eaten Philippines, or at least Manila for that matter. Being a country so small in size geographically, yet so highly populated by people, she manage to eat lots of varieties of food all packed in a small area. Good things do come in small packages as it seems. Rokh enjoys Philippines very much for their cultures and food of many influences due to its history, starting from their own indigenous cuisine which was later laden with Spanish influences, which also extend sideways to Chinese influence, and then onwards to American influences and finally came to a mixture of what we have now. She sees Philippines as a mix-mash of culture and food, from deep set of respect for history and family values to modern embrace of the new millennium. Rokh is from the Malaysia Food Guide blog – thamjiak.com

If there is one place in the Philippines where you can truly experience it all, Camarines Sur will not disappoint. Home to the world re-known CamSur Water Sports Complex, Camarines Sur is quickly becoming the new Borocay and the province has the statistics to prove it. It was ranked the number one tourist destination in the country by the department of tourism in the first half of 2009. Not only can you experience every water sport imaginable in one world class facility, but “CamSur” is also home to numerous eco-tourism adventures and the beauty and tranquility of the spectacular Caramoan Islands. The Caramoan Islands were made famous as the filming location of the hit reality television series, “Survivor.”

Believe it or not, despite the CamSur tourist’s typical affinity with water, there is plenty to see in-land as well. The city of Naga plays host to numerous festivals, historic cathedrals and for a little retail therapy, SM City Naga. But perhaps Camarines Sur’s best kept secret lies in a place where the unsuspecting tourist would least expect. Imagine a place where you can relax in the natural wonders of the country while immersing yourself in the spirit of the Bicolano people. Imagine a place where people bring to life century old traditions that will reconnect you with traditional Filipino culture. Imagine a place where you could come as a visitor but leave as family.

I let my imagination run wild and my dream became a reality when I discovered two Gawad Kalinga villages located in different areas of Camarines Sur. (Gawad Kalinga is a community development model and social movement founded in the Philippines.) One site was located right in the heart of the countryside of Libmanan while the other was located in Iriga boasting spectacular views of Mt. Iriga. Each village features a world-class bed and breakfast facility. These units serve as a means of livelihood for the community. What I love about this concept is that while touring for my own pleasure, I can contribute in a positive way to benefit the local community. Each location was an excellent base to enjoy the local and surrounding area. The Gawad Kalinga villages offer a unique opportunity for potential guests to have an intimate encounter with the locals and culture. At each village I was greeted with a warm smile and a welcome drink.

Set deep in the Bicol countryside is the Gawad Kalinga Pona village in Libmanan. A 20 pesos van ride will have you there in only 45 minutes from Naga. As you live in community with the people of the village, you are exposed to daily life in a way that no hotel can offer. Numerous activities offer enough variety to suit any taste from learning how to cook traditional Bicolano dishes, to participating in traditional farming. Some visitors may simply enjoy interacting with the children. You might also enjoy learning how to make hand made flowers or hand bags out of recycled materials. My personal favourite was fishing in the village’s tilapia pond where your catch will be cooked to your preference – grilled or fried. For those wishing total relaxation and pampering, the locals in Libmanan are even trained to provide hair cuts, massages, or manicures. I enjoyed relaxing on my private deck breathing in the fresh country air – a stark contrast for those who live in metro Manila. Don’t think for one second that when the lights go down that the action stops. That’s when nature comes alive in the country and visitors to Libmanan are treated to the natural wonder of fireflies lighting up the night sky. Once you’ve had your fill of country life, try a change of scenery in Iriga.

Sitting high atop a peak overlooking Mount Iriga, you will find the bed and breakfast suites at the Gawad Kalinga Character village. There is nothing more refreshing than waking up to an awe inspiring view as you sip your morning cup of coffee. All meals are special in this village not just because they come with a view but because they are prepared table side. Like Libmanan, there are plenty of opportunities to experience the Phillipines in a way that most traditional establishments cannot provide. The village is perched on a slope and beautifully landscaped offering one of a kind photo opportunities. You could try learning some of the local Bicolano dialect or just enjoying the view with the locals. The site is ideal for a mountain retreat getaway for couples or as a base to explore the surrounding area. Camarines Sur offers numerous eco-tourism activities including bird watching, natural hot springs, waterfalls, and mountain trekking. On the other side of Mt. Iriga near the Gawad Kalinga village is Lake Buhi. The lake is home to the world’s smallest edible fish, the sinarapan. The village is a van ride away from Naga and won’t cost more than 60 pesos.

Gawad Kalinga Luzon

What I loved about staying in these villages beyond the intimate encounters was the tremendous value offered. One night in your own private unit including breakfast in the morning starts at just 750 pesos for two people and many of the activities are included as well. It’s almost like being at an all inclusive resort. The bonus is the people. Only in Gawad Kalinga villages can you expect to be randomly invited into people’s homes. This is where the cultural exchange and story telling occurs. I was so touched and humbled when I was invited into a family’s home for the first time. Although they had so little of their own, they insisted on offering me refreshments and treating me like a prince. That’s an experience that even Shangri-la can’t match!

Most vacations are full of transactional encounters, but this vacation transformed my life forever. Whether your interests are dolphin watching, historic cathedrals of Naga or wake boarding at the CamSur Watersports Complex, the Gawad Kalinga villages make an excellent home for your stay in Camarines Sur. Where else can you arrive as a visitor but leave as family? It’s often said that people don’t remember the places they visit, but they always remember the people they meet. I will always remember the people that I encountered at the Gawad Kalinga villages. At one site, the people of the village dropped what they were doing and walked me to the highway to join me as I waited for a van to Naga. As I looked back at their smiling faces waving to me as I departed, I realized that this is the true spirit of mabuhay and the Filipino culture at its best.

Guest Writer: Darryl Wilson has a passion for travel and other cultures of the world having visited numerous countries including England, Scotland, Iceland, Greece, Spain, Italy, Malaysia, Thailand, India, and the Philippines among others. As a half-Filipino, the Philippines holds a special place in Darryl`s heart. He is committed to helping the Philippines rise out of poverty through tourism development. Darryl is currently in the process of setting up a non-profit organization in Canada to support work in the Philippines.

The Philippines is receiving an extreme makeover. Slums that once dotted the landscape are being transformed into bright colourful villages for the poorest of the poor. The cultural revolution that I discovered is what the Filipinos call “Gawad Kalinga” which translated into English means, “to give care.”

The formula is simple: less for self, more for others, enough for all. Rather than taking more of what you don’t need, give back so that others may have a chance to make something of themselves for their country and their family. Furthermore, nobody gets left behind. All Filipinos are being challenged to give back to their home country so that the poor may have an opportunity at a life of privilege as well and foreigners are being challenged to help the effort. With the help of its supporters, Gawad Kalinga is providing values formation and building thousands of villages in the Philippines and around the world to provide homes to the countless homeless families plagued by poverty.

After years of oppression and continued government corruption, 70% of the 85 million residents of the Philippines still live in poverty. Ironically, in a global survey conducted in 2005, Filipinos came out among the world’s happiest people. Looking through North American eyes, one might believe that such statistics must be incorrect. Afterall, when many North Americans spend their lives chasing material pursuits or the “American” dream in the pursuit of happiness, who could imagine that a country so poor could be so happy?

As a half-Filipino, I was so touched by this unique Filipino-made solution to poverty that I was inspired to retrace the roots of my heritage and journey to the Philippines to devote 6 months volunteering for the cause. When I arrived at the village where we would spend part of our 6 months, there was an immediate connection to the families who welcomed us so warmly. It was a humbling thought that even though these people came from such humble means, had little money and few possessions that they would welcome us to stay in their small homes, share their food and their lives with us. The families were quick to share stories of the struggles and pain of the past and how Gawad Kalinga changed their lives. Stories were shared of life in the slums: sleeping on cement floors infested with cockroaches, meals of only salt mixed with a bit of rice, and leaky roofs that would flood homes during downpours of rain. Men shared stories of how they lost their dignity and confidence because they could not provide for their families. At no point did they blame anyone for their pain. Despite the suffering by these people, there was something I noticed that transcended the darkness in their lives. It was an overwhelming feeling of happiness because although the people did not have enough to satisfy their basic needs, as long as they had their families, there was joy. It was at that point that I realized I was standing in the richest country in the world.

Gawad Kalinga

To the Filipino, family is more important than material wealth. I knew that it was the power of the family as an institution that held these people together in times of great struggle and adversity. No matter how poor they were, the love and joy that they shared as a family could never be taken away from them. For the first time in my life, I felt that I truly experienced what it means to have quality family time and it was all found in the simple pleasures of life found in nature. It was a stark contrast to the material world that many North Americans hide in to shield themselves from their brokenness. Many people blame the poor for being poor. Some attribute it to laziness but more often than not, poverty is caused by a failure of society to give those less fortunate a chance at what everyone else enjoys. Instead of giving others a chance, we are conditioned to take more than we need.

During my six-month stay in the Philippines, I will be working with the people of the GK Villages to help develop tourism as a means of livelihood in their communities. I will also be meeting and living with many of the families and documenting their stories to share with others. The work will continue until poverty around the world is eradicated, values are formed and slums no longer exist. Nobody will be left behind. If we work together to teach people to fish, they will be able to feed their families for life.

Read part 2 of the Gawad Kalinga experience – Gawad Kalinga Experience in Camarines Sur

Guest Writer: Darryl Wilson has a passion for travel and other cultures of the world having visited numerous countries including England, Scotland, Iceland, Greece, Spain, Italy, Malaysia, Thailand, India, and the Philippines among others. As a half-Filipino, the Philippines holds a special place in Darryl`s heart. He is committed to helping the Philippines rise out of poverty through tourism development. Darryl is currently in the process of setting up a non-profit organization in Canada to support work in the Philippines.

Nayong Pilipino
This theme park draws numerous tourists all over the world for its historical, cultural, and fun-filled activities and adventures.

Rizal Park
This park is an essential part of Manila’s history and is a wonderful place to begin touring the city. Monuments and memorial plaques will provide the visitor with information regarding the city. The Park also contains the Japanese and Chinese Gardens, the Butterfly Pavilion, the chess plaza, and the Orchidarium.

Intramuros
History buff visitors will certainly want to visit this old district of the city. It is city that is walled, mirroring the fortresses that were used in former years in order to maintain the safety of the city’s people. The location boasts a number of statues, monuments, and forts that display the gorgeous architecture of the area.

Manila Ocean Park
People who enjoy aquariums as well as the U.S.’s Sea World find that they thoroughly enjoy the Ocean Park in the city. This site also contains a boutique mall as well as numerous other things to do for the day.

Fort Bonifacio
This section of the city displays the history of the military in the Philippines. Numerous landmarks are scattered in this district with the highlight of the area being Heritage Park Memorial Park and the memorial cemeteries.

Manila Cathedral
Visitors to the capital of the Philippines that are interested in the history of the country’s religion will certainly want to visit the city’s cathedral that was established during the sixteenth century.

Roxas Boulevard Baywalk
As is the case with any vacation, there are days when you want to skip the tourist thing and just enjoy yourself in a relaxing manner. The Roxas Boulevard Baywalk is a perfect solution to such a desire. It is considered to be the best place in the city to watch the setting of the sun and enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Villa Escudero Plantation
This coconut plantation is a historic site situated in the south of Manila and is certainly one of the most popular places to visit. Tourists can enjoy a tour of the museum as well as lesson in the history of the area. Afterwards, you can walk outside and enjoy the breathtaking beauty of the area and its natural beauty.

Wet Markets
If you are looking for a traditional experience shopping in the city, avoid the malls and visit the wet markets. This area consists of food markets that are open to the air where numerous types of food can be purchased including fresh vegetables and fruits that are grown by people living in the nearby areas.

Nightlife
There are numerous locations, such as nightclubs and bars, which can be enjoyed during the nighttime. After a long day of sightseeing, this could be the perfect thing.

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Somehow this line make me relent, at times some taxi man are rude in asking for more money on top of their meter, but this one just tells me honestly why he needs it. Maybe it is just how frankly he tells me why he needs that extra. So I just said “OK!”

It is not always like this in Manila, I have many times met more kindness than I can ever have expected, once a taxi man said I can pay whatever amount I seem fit since the destination I went to was just so near, it caught me off guard, but I paid as how much I think is right with tips to boot.

I find that I actually enjoy tipping, after living a life of an ‘expat’ (some of them refer me as that though I don’t feel such as that word makes one think of extravagance life but trust me it is not),but still new habits are learnt when one is in a foreign land. I never tip when I was in Malaysia, I guess somehow it doesn’t seem like the culture to me then but as the saying goes, when in Rome, do what the Romans do. I have learnt here that not many are that well off, many earn their wages through sheer hard work and many of them are in the service industries. So if the restaurant does not charge for service (most of them do not), then I would leave some tips so that the servers could earn a more decent income. Besides, at most places the service is good, I am always greeted with a smile, and they are mostly attentive and genuine.

Food I must say though there are hits and misses, but who am I judge when I have only been to only so few of them, many good ones still uncovered I believe. In the metropolitan area which are dominated with few chain restaurants, it is quite hard to avoid them (being one who always think that chain restaurants are just a small step away from ‘fast food’), some did disappoint but many does surprises you with their good food and how they have maintained the quality despite the huge expansions and the some for even the longest time of existence. I guess this is just how Filipinos show their fidelity, if the food is good, they will keep returning to it religiously, thus allowing a selected few chain restaurants to boom across the metropolitan faster than you can say “Sarap!” (means delicious in Tagalog) This is after all the country where their home-grown fast food chain, Jollibee (just love the catchy name) out beats McDonald by a seriously high margin; at nearly every corner that you turn, you will see the happy bee with a chef hat smiling at you.

Nevertheless, I have in fact tried quite a number of local dishes, many times in various restaurants, just to find them differ slightly (sometimes widely) from one another, and then on to find my favourites among them. So let me introduce you to them slowly, each food that the locals here enjoy day in and day out and where to get the best of them and what varieties you may just find (mind you some or most of them would be coming from the said chain restaurants, I guess they are a chain for the same reason?). First let me start with a dish, as you all know me, the one who praises the pork relentlessly, would of course start with one which is the pork sisig.

Pork Sisig
Photo by Rachel

Pork sisig is one of the well known pulutan (food to go with drink), where normally people order when they are out having a beer or some alcohol. It was said to reduce the impact of alcohol on the stomach and the name itself actually meant to be ‘taken in small quantity’. But as for me, I ordered it anyway as appetizer or main meal even, because I simply love it. There are two groups of pork sisig lovers, those who love the crunchy ones while those on the vice versa, for me I belong to the former group. I just love to have a crunch on my pork sisig but nevertheless I do enjoy the other types too. Pork sisig would serve better to those who don’t really know what it is made of, but just if you are brave enough read on now else skip to the next paragraph, you have been warned! It is made of chopped pig’s head (hair removed and tenderize and yes entire head!), then boiled and grilled/broiled then finally fried with chopped onions and served on a sizzling platter with vinegar and kalamansi juice (Asian lime).

Normally they like to serve the pork sisig at the last cooking part where they would ‘fry’ the mixture in front of you on the sizzling pan, even sometimes cracking a raw egg over and cook it along. Once served, you can then squeeze over the kalamansi to taste yourself and voila, you would have a perfect crunchy pulutan or simply a good dish to go along with your rice.

For my favourite crunchy pork sisig:
Krocodile Grill
Greenbelt 3
Esperanza St., Ayala Center
Makati City, Metro Manila
Other branches

A cross between the crunchy and the soft, a lot of people’s favourite:
Gerry’s Grill
Glorietta 5
Level 2, Ayala Center,
Makati City, Metro Manila
(02)856-4443, (02)856-3544
Sunday to Thursday 11am – 12midnight
Friday and Saturday 11am – 2am
Other Branches

Another pork sisig with a twist, added with mayonnaise but nonetheless uniquely tasty:
Giligans ‘s Island Restaurant and Bar
Greenbelt 1
Esperanza St., Ayala Center
Makati City, Metro Manila
Other branches

Guest Writer: Three months stint in Philippines, Rokh has almost eaten Philippines, or at least Manila for that matter. Being a country so small in size geographically, yet so highly populated by people, she manage to eat lots of varieties of food all packed in a small area. Good things do come in small packages as it seems. Rokh enjoys Philippines very much for their cultures and food of many influences due to its history, starting from their own indigenous cuisine which was later laden with Spanish influences, which also extend sideways to Chinese influence, and then onwards to American influences and finally came to a mixture of what we have now. She sees Philippines as a mix-mash of culture and food, from deep set of respect for history and family values to modern embrace of the new millennium. Rokh is from the Malaysia Food Guide blog – thamjiak.com

Volcano climbing is a rising sport tourism activity around the world. Many adventure travelers are drawn to climb a live volcano for the thrill and experience it brings. The Smithsonian Institute notes that the Philippines has 50 volcanoes. It classifies Taal as a caldera, which means cauldron-like.

Taal Volcano Climbing – Crater lake
Photo by Mayumi

Our team decided to scale the heights of Taal Volcano as part of our planning session in Batangas. We would like to check its tourist appeal and we were fortunate to find many. Taking a 30-minute boat ride from Balete, Batangas, we reached the shoreline of the volcano where a lot of horsemen welcomed us. The trek path was filled with thorny bushes since this part of the volcano was “untouristy”. Most go through the Tagaytay side, which was the opposite of where we landed.

Taal Volcano Climbing – Our Team
Photo by Mayumi

Our guide took us trough a steady path. On our way up, we spotted several vegetation areas farmed by the locals – they grew kamoteng kahoy and fruit trees such as mangoes and bananas. Quite noticeable are the plants our guide called aroma, which have real big thorns and leaves like that of tamarind. The bigger version of this, they called espana. There are also mistletoe leaves – I don’t know what they are called, as well as isis or pakiling leaves. These leaves, when dried have the texture of sandpaper and I remember our teacher in primary class requiring us to bring these to clean and smoothen the surfaces of our wooden desks. There were egrets or herons flying above, and there were also unique sounding birds which I do not know. I’m sure many new species of flora and fauna could be discovered in this volcanic community, just like the smallest butterflies our team saw at the middle of the crater. They have silvery wings and are the size of an inch in wingspan.

The view atop Taal Volcano was a sight to behold. Wherever you face, you’d see wonderful scenery – the surrounding lake where we came from, and the enticing lake at the middle of the volcano. Going down to the crater lake was another 30 minutes trek so we rested a bit and had some fresh, cold coconuts. They are sold at P50 a piece. Soft drinks and mineral water are also available. We were joined by other foreign travelers who were on their way back from the crater.

Taal Volcano Climbing – Swimming in the crater lake
Photo by Mayumi

The trek downwards was more difficult. I slipped once and fell on my butt. Other of our team members were less fortunate – sliding down two or three times. Our guide said recent strong typhoon Ondoy / Ketsana destroyed the hiking trail and worse, left the path spikier. Even horses had a hard time going down.

At the bottom of the crater, we were all ready to take a dip at the lake. The trek path was so dusty, we all wanted to wash off. The ground at the lake was so hot, it was difficult to walk without slippers or shoes. Once at the lake, I noticed the water to be hot, then as I go forward, it becomes half cold and half warm. The lake floor was icky smooth. Further exploration revealed fine black sand, very sulfuric in smell. We all tried applying some on our arms, believing it has wonderful dermatological effects.

Taal Volcano Climbing
Photo by Mayumi

A part of the lake leading to the crater has a spot bubbling and smoking. The sound coming out of it is similar to exhaust rooms, and the steam was very warm. It has this weird, ugly smell. Then we checked the crater which was a big hole of bubbling gray mud. This part has the most smoke, and it seems easy to approach but once I got near, it took the best of me. I got to realize that it is a crater after all and the grounds I am standing on is live volcano. One wrong step and I could fall right into the mouth of the volcano! Maybe we all felt the same, because at this point we decided to go back via horses. Our legs were so tired and we were famished.

Horse back riding was fun, or donkey back riding I should say. We paid P400 for the horses, P200 if we rode from the crater, but the lives of the people at the foot of the mountain is unbelievable I felt confined to give more. At this time of Internet and great computers, their source of electricity is a generator. They don’t have a high school and most only finish primary school. For this, our team would surely visit again. Either for adventure tour or for community outreach.

Guest Writer: Mayumi is a part of Cultureight Travel and they offer eco-friendly small group walks and adventures in the Philippines.